Even today, many still do not know what kind of device it is - a dimmer, what it is for and how to install it correctly. Today we will try to explain all this in detail, a dimmer connection diagram will also be given (more precisely, even several possible schemes at once) and step-by-step instructions for installing it yourself.
The modern assortment of dimmers present on the shelves of lighting equipment stores is huge, and therefore choosing the right option is a rather difficult task. We will consider the features and varieties of this device, but first we note one important point. A dimmer (or dimmer) is a device designed to smoothly control the brightness of lighting and, as a rule, it is installed instead of a simple switch.
Schemes and methods for connecting a dimmer
There are several options for connecting a dimmer to a lighting network, but we will only present the most commonly used circuits today.
Scheme one
The simplest, since we are talking about mounting a regulator instead of a traditional switch. To begin with, the key switch should be dismantled (of course, having de-energized it beforehand). To do this, the cover of the key of the de-energized device is removed - it is under it that the screws fixing the case are located. In the absence of a plastic box, it must be installed without fail after dismantling the circuit breaker. It can be a simple box - one that is used for sockets.
If this dimmer connection scheme is applied to a monoblock model, then the technology is the same - the phase cable is placed in a gap. It must be connected to the terminal, which is marked with the letter L and has an arrow pointing up. As for the second cable, it must be connected to another terminal (wavy line with an inclined arrow).
Note! It is worth reminding you once again that this paragraph describes the simplest way to connect a dimmer, and therefore it is used in the majority of cases (special skills are not required for work in this case). Roughly speaking, the technology here is almost identical to the procedure for replacing an outlet or a switch.
Scheme two
This scheme is already somewhat more complicated (but at the same time much more convenient) and is used, as a rule, for bedrooms. The peculiarity is in the serial connection of the switch and the dimmer to one phase cable going to the lighting device. It is worth remembering that the switch should be located first in this line, and after it - the dimmer itself. The most popular option is to install a switch near the door, and a dimmer near the bed.
The main advantage of this scheme is that you, as a user, will be able to adjust / turn off the lighting without even getting out of bed! And if, when leaving the room, you use the switch to turn off the light, and when you return and turn it on again, you will notice that the brightness level of the lighting is the same as you set before.
Video - How to install a dimmer instead of a switch
Scheme three. Through switch
It is rightfully considered the most difficult option, since it involves the installation of a pass-through switch. Despite the fact that the installation process is highly complex, the convenience of the scheme is obvious, and therefore it is often used for through rooms, long corridors, stairs between floors and other similar places. In short, the essence of this method of adjusting the intensity of lighting is to turn on the light in one place and then turn it off in another.
On a note. If there are three breakers (or more) in the circuit, then the wire that is laid to them must be four-wire.
What else is special about walk-through switches? And those that are, in fact, more than switches - they can switch between lines, and therefore turn on at any location of the key. You can draw an analogy with railroad arrows. And here dimmer connection diagram with a through breaker is presented below. The phase, as you can see, goes to the first switch, while it goes to the lighting fixture from the other. A two-wire cable is used to connect the breakers to each other.
Important information! No one connects the walk-through switches directly! This must only be done through a junction box in which the cables are connected in pairs.
And now let's consider how a dimmer will function in such a circuit. It must be connected after the last switch, so that the light intensity can be freely adjusted regardless of the position of the switches. However, if the dimmer is turned off, then the light will go out and, which is typical, will not react in any way to the feed-through breakers (and not surprisingly, because you will open the circuit).
How to install a dimmer - detailed instructions!
As a result, I would like to familiarize myself with the procedure for installing a regulator instead of a simple switch. The replacement process itself in this case is nothing complicated, since both devices are mounted using almost the same technology. All that is required of you is to become familiar with this technology and act in accordance with the guidance below.
Step #1. To begin with, turn off the power supply, you can also additionally check whether it was really turned off using a special indicator screwdriver for this.
Step #2. After that, you can remove the switch button that is installed.
Step #3. Now unscrew the screws that secure the decorative frame of the switch, then remove it.
Step #4. Unscrew the fixing screws, remove the device mechanism from the mounting box. The dimmer itself, by the way, you can later install in the same box.
Step #5. Unscrew the electrical cables that are connected to the switch.
Step #6. After that, you will see a couple of loose wires.
The first wire (and it will be phase) is connected to the circuit breaker itself, while the other is connected to the lighting fixture. Carefully read the diagram, which is presented in the manufacturer's instructions for the dimmer; or, alternatively, this circuit may be present on the cover of the device.
As we have repeatedly mentioned above, when working with a dimmer, it is necessary to act in strict accordance with the connection sequence recommended by the manufacturer. So, the phase wire (and here it is indicated in red) is connected to the dimmer terminal (it is indicated by the L-in marking). The second cable (in this case, orange) must be connected to a different terminal - L-out.
Step #7. Place the dimmer in the remaining mounting box. To perform this simple operation, carefully bend the cables, insert the dimmer into the socket. After that, tighten the screws, install the decorative frame, fix it with the appropriate screws. Now it remains only to install the adjusting wheel.
Step #8. Upon completion of the installation, check the regulator for operability - this will require the restoration of the power supply. Turn the handle of the device until you hear a characteristic click, moving in the opposite direction to the clockwise direction. When this very click sounds, the voltage on the bulbs should increase, as evidenced by a gradual increase in the brightness of the lighting.
Everything, the device is connected and, as you have already seen, it works quite normally. Now you can start its full operation!
The principle of operation and the main types of dimmers
Before installing a dimer, you should understand how it generally works. As for the principle of operation, in this case it is quite simple. The dimmer pre-regulates the voltage supply to the lighting fixture in the room. If you properly deal with this, then the device will be able to change the voltage supply to the lamp from 0 to 100 percent.
The lower the voltage will be applied, the correspondingly lower will be the brightness of the lighting in the room. In addition, this device has various design variations. There are several parameters at once by which modern dimmers are classified. Let's get acquainted with each of them in more detail.
Classification of the dimmer by type of execution
From this point of view, all dimmers are divided into three large groups, consider them.
- Model. Such devices are intended for installation in a switchboard. With their help, you can adjust, as well as turn on the lighting in places that can be classified as public (this can be a corridor or, for example, a staircase, an entrance).
- Monoblock. Representatives of this category are mounted instead of a conventional switch. That is why problems with installing such dimmers with your own hands often do not arise at all. The devices are quite popular, so recently they have acquired some subspecies that differ in the way they are controlled.
- With switch. And such devices are installed in a special box, where sockets are often mounted. As for the control organ, in this case the button acts as such (not always, but in most cases).
Classification of dimmers by control method
So, monoblock household models can have, as we just noted, several control options.
- Rotary models. They have a special rotating handle. If you move it to the leftmost position, this will turn off the lighting, and if you turn it to the right, the brightness of the lamps will increase.
- Keyboard models. Outwardly, they are an exact copy of a two-button circuit breaker. The purpose of the first key is to adjust the brightness of the light, and the second is to turn it off / on.
- Turn-and-push models. They operate on almost the same principle as rotary ones, however, they differ in that in order to turn on the lighting, you need to drown the handle a little.
Note! Not so long ago, touch-sensitive dimmers appeared, which quickly gained popularity due to the fact that they look very modern. Such devices can easily fit into almost any design (especially when it comes to high-tech style).
The most convenient are rightfully considered dimmers with a remote control function. Thanks to the remote control, you will be able to adjust the brightness of the light from anywhere in the room. In addition, some models also perform the function of a switch. Each has its own dimmer connection scheme, but more on that later.
Classification by type of lamps
We cannot but agree that the use of different regulators for each particular type of lamp is at least strange. But the fact is that modern lamps are very diverse and have a variety of design features.
As for incandescent lamps, the simplest dimmers are used for them, which operate according to an extremely simple principle: the brightness of the illumination of the filaments is regulated by changing the voltage. In addition, such dimmers can also be used for halogen lamps powered by a standard 220-volt voltage. Finally, the device data design itself is not fundamentally complex.
Video - Rules for connecting lamps to a dimmer
But for halogen bulbs operating from 12-24 volts, more complex dimmers are used. Ideally, a step-down transformer should be present in the connection diagram, but if this is not possible for one reason or another, you can choose a dimmer by the type of an existing transformer. If the latter is electronic, then you will need a model marked C, and if winding - marked RL.
Finally, a special dimmer must be used with LED dumps, which pulse modulates the frequency of the current.
Video - A few words about the dimmer for LEDs
The most difficult in terms of adjusting the intensity of lighting are fluorescent lamps (or, as they are also called, energy-saving). Many even believe that such lighting networks should not be dimmed at all. But if you do not agree with these people, then be sure to include an electronic starter (or electronic ballast for short) in the circuit.
Note! When choosing a dimmer, take into account not only the specific type of lamps that will be used with this device, but also the maximum design load. In addition, we advise you to give preference to models with a power reserve.
Key benefits of using dimmers
The adjustable lighting described in the article has a lot of advantages when compared with single-pole lighting. Let's consider them.
- Saving. Every month, you will spend about 5-8 percent less on your energy bills.
- If you connect fluorescent lamps to the thermostat, the color scheme of the lighting will turn out to be cooler and softer.
- In addition, you can create the ideal atmosphere in the room (for example, for watching movies or children's games).
- The life of the lamps when using dimmers increases markedly. At least 25 percent.
How to choose the right dimmer? Make sure that the model you choose is designed for the total power of the lighting fixtures. For example, for a standard 600-watt appliance, there will obviously be too many 10 light bulbs in the kitchen of 100 watts each.
Before installing and connecting the device (and the dimmer connection diagram will be discussed a little later), you should familiarize yourself with the basic requirements and recommendations. All of them are listed below.
- If an LED dimmer is connected, then the power of the lighting device that is used with it must be at least 40 watts. So, in the case of lower power, the operational life of your product will be noticeably reduced.
- It is also important that the power of the dimmer is greater than the total power of all the fixtures.
- It is strongly not recommended to install the device in a room where the air temperature is more than 25 degrees. The fact is that overheating will negatively affect subsequent work.
- In the case of connecting a dimmer to LEDs, the device must be selected exclusively of high quality. Otherwise, it may simply not cope with lighting control.
- Finally, in the case of connecting the device to fluorescent lamps, as noted above, a special device must be selected.
Note! If you intend to connect the dimmer yourself, then you must adhere to all of the above requirements without fail. By doing all this, you will significantly extend the life of this device.
What about dimmers for ceiling fans?
If you buy a regulator to control the operation of a ceiling fan, then in no case give preference to the standard model, since its (fan) service life will decrease significantly, moreover, it may even burn out in record time. There are several varieties of typical dimmers that are approved for use with ceiling fans (variable speed, silent three and seven speed poles, others).
As a small conclusion
Now you know what a dimmer is, how it functions and what varieties of it exist. In addition, you know what the dimmer connection diagram should be in a given situation, as well as how to correctly install the device described in the article. Therefore, at the end of the article, we will once again draw your attention to the fact that simple dimmers must not be used together with energy-saving lamps - the fact is that in such a situation their service life will be noticeably reduced! Instead, give preference to special dimmers, or, alternatively, refuse to use them at all.
That's all, good luck in all your endeavors! And don't forget to watch another thematic video below.
Video - Features of the right choice of dimmer
A lighting control controller (or simply a dimmer, from the English dim - dim) is a device with which you can adjust the intensity of the room lighting. It works in accordance with the principle of current pulse modulation, changes and regulates the voltage of the light source and, accordingly, the brightness. The lighting controller is permanently connected to the electrical circuit, and after turning the knob, the brightness of the lamp changes. Using this electrical device, the user can set the desired lighting conditions according to needs - from the brightest work light to soft romantic darkness. In the case of LED lamps, sometimes even the color of the glow is adjusted.
lighting controller The lighting controller is the same switch, only adjustable (by turning, touching or pressing). With it, he not only increases or decreases the intensity of the light, but also turns the lamp on and off. Unlike a conventional switch that mechanically connects / disconnects the electrical circuit, the controller is permanently connected to the 220 V network.
The brightness of the lighting is changed by the light controller A dimmer is a cost-effective device - at the right time it reduces the lighting to 10-50%, and the amount of electricity consumed decreases and the operating time of incandescent lamps increases accordingly. In addition, such a smooth controller can control several groups of lamps at once.
Dimmer connection diagram
It should be remembered that not all dimmers are the same for all types of lamps - lamps with different specifications may not always function properly with the selected dimmers (especially LED). Regulators are different for 12V and 220V lamps.
220V dimmer connection diagram For most fluorescent and LED lamps, conventional regulators are not suitable. That is why they are made in various types - for "their type" of lamps. On their case, the possibility of regulating incandescent lamps is indicated.
12V dimmer connection diagram (LED strips) The decisive factor is the amount of electricity consumed by the light bulb, that is, the rated power. Each dimmer has its own power limits marked on it. For example, if the controller is marked 300W, it means that it is suitable for a chandelier with 60W incandescent lamps. But just in case, it is better to buy a controller with more power. This limit should be reduced by approximately 20% if the device is installed near a light or heat source.
Poor quality dimmers made by dubious Chinese manufacturers often make a slight noise when dimming and don't last long. High-quality devices work absolutely without noise.
Various models of lighting controllers differ in their design. The round handle is the most widely used. Another type is a touch controller with a screen showing the percentage of power on the lamp. Longer touching the screen with your fingers increases the brightness of the lighting. There are also lighting controls with a button that sets the light intensity with a short or long press. And of course there are controllers that can be remotely set using a remote control or via Wi-Fi via a smartphone (Internet).
Regardless of what shape and model of the lighting controller you purchased, the methods for assembling them and connecting them to a 220V electrical network are the same ().
How to disassemble a regulator with a handle
The most important thing is not to forget to turn off the electricity in the apartment (by pressing the circuit breaker). During the installation of the device, electricity must not pass through the connecting cables. It would be a good idea to measure the current in the outlet even after turning off the shield to make sure that there is no dangerous voltage on the wires in the electrical box.
First of all, to the electrical box where it was decided to install the dimmer, it is necessary to introduce and separate the phase conductors and the neutral "neutral" wire. It is much easier to do this with modern power cables - they have a clear color marking system: a neutral wire with blue insulation, a phase conductor is brown or black, a protective earth wire is always green-yellow. But if there are old Soviet wires in the junction box, you can determine which of them is the phase and zero with a voltage meter, for example, using an indicator - a screwdriver with a neon lamp. This will be the phase. If it doesn't light up, it's a neutral conductor.
Lamp Controller Disassembly The lighting controller is assembled in stages: first, the electronic panel with the connecting terminals to which the wires are connected, then the top cover, ending with the adjusting knob. The purchased regulator must be disassembled beforehand: unscrew the handle, nuts and screws fixing the cover to the panel.
Installing the controller and connecting to the network
After making sure that there is no electricity through the wires, you can safely remove the insulation by 12-15 mm (the wires themselves should protrude 8-10 cm from the electrical box).
The required length of wires from the wall is 8-10 cm. After performing this operation (in order not to tear out the wires, it is better to use special stripping tools), connect the phase conductor to the regulator terminal marked with the letter L (phase). Sometimes in other models of foreign manufacturers, it can be marked with an arrow pointing outwards - “exit” or the letter P).
Connecting the phase wire to the regulator The blue neutral wire is connected to the terminal marked with the letter N. Sometimes in other models marked 0 or an arrow pointing to the terminal - "input".
Connecting the neutral conductor The ground cable is usually not involved in the connection, so its tip is insulated - inserted into a small clamp ().
The ground wire is insulated with a separate terminal If your light controller model provides for this, the ground wire is connected to the terminal on the metal panel marked with this ground symbol.
Grounding the 220V regulator Some regulator models must be grounded by connecting a cable to their metal panel.
It remains only to insert the regulator mechanism with connected wires into the electrical box and mechanically fix it there using screws and brackets.
Controller mechanism inserted into the box It is important to correctly attach the panel, the reliability of fixing other parts of the regulator and the operation of the entire device depends on this.
The device is screwed Place the top cover on the controller and secure it with a screwdriver (or latches, depending on the dimmer model).
The device is equipped with a top cover, which must also be secured with a screw. The knob is inserted into the right place on the regulator cover.
Handle inserted and dimmer assembled Now you can turn on the electric current in the apartment and check how the installed lighting controller works.
If the device does not work
Many dimmer models have their own fuse. If it doesn't work find it and test it. If that fuse can be easily replaced with a new one. Fuses are divided based on operating speed (F - fast action, M - normal, T - inertia).
To change the fuse, you need to turn off the electricity in the apartment. After removing the handle, unscrew the screw and remove the top cover. Use a screwdriver to remove the fuse bracket. After replacing it, we insert the bracket with it into place.
After removing the regulator cover, replace the fuse The regulator cover and knob also return to their original positions. The circuit breaker on the panel turns on the electricity in the apartment.
Controller installation tools
- pliers and wire cutters for removing insulation from wires;
- voltage and phase meter (voltmeter and neon);
- pliers for cutting and stripping wires;
- Phillips screwdriver (depending on the controller model).
As for the installation of the plastic box itself, there is a separate detailed article about this. As always, post your questions in the comments below.
Have you noticed what a boom in savings on everything has gripped us all lately? To save heat and reduce heat losses, we install double-glazed windows, insulate walls, floors, ceilings and doors. To save water, we install water meters to independently control and reduce its consumption, etc. It turns out that using a dimmer, you can regulate the consumption of electricity.
Video: Connecting various types of lamps to a dimmer
What is it and how to connect a dimmer consider further. So, a dimmer is a device that allows you to adjust the brightness of the lighting, and, accordingly, the amount of electricity consumed by the light bulbs. A dimmer is installed instead of the usual switch. By the way, the dimmer will make turning the light on and off smoother. Today in electrical stores you can see a number of these devices, which differ in shape, color, power and connection method. True, dimmers can only be used to adjust the brightness of conventional incandescent or halogen lamps.
Believe me, installing a dimmer with your own hands is not at all difficult. And every man with minimal knowledge of electrical engineering will cope with this task. To do this, it is enough to have at hand, in addition to the dimmer, a socket box (other names are an installation box or a cup holder), a screwdriver and a puncher.
Video: Connecting a dimmer (wiring product)
Before you buy a dimmer, you need to calculate its power. It is recommended to select the power of the dimmer taking into account the excess of its power, approximately one and a half times, the total power of all lamps, the power supply of which will be regulated.
- For example, three chandelier lamps, each with a power of 100 watts, have a total power of 300 watts. The power of the dimmer in this case should be at least 500 watts. Remember, a dimmer working at maximum power can even cause a fire. Therefore, it is better to choose it with a power reserve.
You can also choose between conventional or programmable, simple or touch controls. But the connection of a touch-controlled dimmer must be done with grounding or zeroing.
Having prepared materials and tools, you can proceed to dimmer installation. The first step is to remove the old switch. The dismantling process is simple and straightforward, but do not forget to turn off the power beforehand. Now connect and install a dimmer in its place. But before installing the dimmer, it is necessary to use an electric probe to determine which wire is supplying power, that is, to determine the phase wire, since the dimmer, unlike a simple switch, is connected according to a certain scheme. The phase wire is connected to the terminal marked with the letter L.
Video: Dimmer Switch Schneider Electric Anya AYA2200121/AYA2200123
If switches have not yet been installed in your apartment, then the procedure for connecting a dimmer at the stage of wiring is no different from installing a simple switch.
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How to connect a dimmer
Let's put the question on the forehead. What is a dimmer? A dimmer is an electronic device that controls the voltage across a load. The load can be a variety of electronic devices and devices.
But in this article, we will consider only one area of \u200b\u200bapplication of dimmers, namely, controlling the brightness level of lighting lamps.
About dimmers
The first dimmers appeared at the end of the 19th century, and served to gradually darken the auditorium in theaters. Why in theaters? Because the inventor of the dimmer was the inveterate theatergoer Grenville Woods.
Modern dimmers, as already mentioned, have found their application in various fields of electronics and electrical engineering.
But at the household level, most often, they are associated with the regulation of the level of illumination of an apartment, room, or a separate part of the room. With the help of dimmers it is easy to create an unusual lighting design for your apartment. Some parts of the apartment will be brightly lit, others will be darkened, etc.
The microcontrollers installed in the dimmer allow not only to adjust the brightness of the lighting, but also, in accordance with a given program, automatically turn on or off the lighting, simulate the presence of a person in the house, smoothly turn off the lighting, have a remote control or even an acoustic control system (using voice or loud sound).
Dimmers are indispensable components in smart home systems.
Dimmers can control not only the brightness of a single lamp, but also a group of lamps, and even several groups of lamps. It all depends on the power level with which the power element can work.
Wiring diagrams for dimmers
The first dimmers were connected to the load through a rheostat (variable resistor), but such a circuit was not very reliable.
With the development of the element base of electronics, a thyristor connected to the load through a diode bridge began to be used as a power element.
The thyristor dimmer circuit looked like this:
D1 - diode
D2, D3, D4, D5 - diode bridge
SCR - thyristor, its power depends on the load power
You can learn more about the principle of operation of the circuit and the radio elements used from the article “Smooth switching on of incandescent lamps”
Currently, a more advanced type of thyristor is used in dimmers - a triac, by the way, invented in the Soviet Union.
One of the variants of the rotary dimmer circuit on the triac is shown in the figure.
Varieties of dimmers
Modular dimmers
This type of dimmer is usually installed in switchboards and is designed to control lighting in corridors and stairwells.
Control is carried out using a remote button or a key switch. Pressing the button turns on / off the lamps, and holding the button pressed for more than 5 seconds, you can adjust the brightness level of the lamps.
Dimmers installed in the mounting box
This type of dimmer is used with incandescent and halogen lamps with capacitive or inductive loads.
Controlled by a remote button.
Monoblock dimmers
This type of dimmer is made as a single unit and is installed in a standard socket. It is connected like a normal switch, but it is advisable to observe the polarity of the connection.
According to the execution of the control part, monoblock dimmers are divided into:
1.
Swivel-push. When the knob is pressed, the lamp or lamps are turned on / off, and when the knob is rotated, the brightness of the lamps is adjusted.
rotary dimmers. In this type of dimmers, the control consists only in turning the knob for adjusting the brightness of the glow.
3. Keyboard dimmers.
In appearance, they are very similar to ordinary switches.
One key is responsible for turning on / off the lamps, and the second for the level of their brightness.
4. Touch dimmers.
The most "advanced" type of dimmers.
In this version, there are no moving parts, so this kind of dimmer is more reliable. One of the sensors is responsible for turning on / off the lamps, the remaining sensors are responsible for the brightness level. As you understand, although the switching is very smooth, this switching is still stepped. Those. there are only a few levels of brightness of the glow of the lamps.
5. Dimmers with a control panel are a convenient and comfortable option that allows you to adjust its illumination without getting up, for example, from your workplace.
In addition, quite often, this type of dimmer also provides for manual adjustment of the brightness of the lamps.
Practically, all models of different types of dimmers have memory. Therefore, the next time the dimmer is turned on, the lamps turn on with the same brightness level that was used the last time they were turned on. Plus or minus, I do not dare to say.
In addition to the above gradation of dimmers, they are also divided by the type of lamps they can work with.
1. Dimmers for incandescent and halogen lamps 220V.
Almost all dimmers can work with incandescent lamps and halogen lamps operating from 220 V.
In this case, there are no problems. Lamps have inertia, they have no capacitance and inductance. The only thing you should pay attention to is that as the voltage decreases, the color temperature of the light changes. It decreases, and the emission spectrum shifts to the red side.
Do-it-yourself dimmer connection
At low voltages applied to the lamp, you may not like the color of the radiation.
2. Dimmers for low voltage halogen lamps.
If 12-24 V halogen lamps are dimmed, a step-down transformer is required. If a winding transformer is installed, then a dimmer is selected that can work with an inductive load. It is marked RL.
When using an electronic transformer, a dimmer marked C must be used.
This means that the dimmer can handle capacitive loads. Of course, the best option is to combine both a transformer and a dimmer in one device, but this is not always done.
In addition, attention should be paid to the fact that dimmers have the property of smoothly turning off and on the lamps, since sudden voltage drops adversely affect the life of this type of lamp.
3. Dimmers for fluorescent lamps.
Dimming this type of lamp is the most problematic. With a conventional starter, fluorescent lamps are not dimmable. You must use a different model of starter. It was called EPRA - electronic ballast. Its diagram is shown below:
With electronic ballasts, power is supplied to the lamp at a frequency of 20 kHz to 50 kHz. When voltage is applied, the circuit formed by the inductor and capacitance enters into resonance, increasing the voltage to the required level and ignites the lamp.
By changing the frequency, you can also change the strength of the current flowing through the lamp, thereby changing its glow level. As you can see, dimming is possible only after the lamp glow reaches maximum power.
That consists
4. Dimmers for LEDs.
It would seem that the principle of dimming for LEDs lies on the surface - change the strength of the current flowing through the diode and that's it. But. In this case, the LED will not work in the optimal mode, and the color of its glow will change significantly. Therefore, another method is used to dim LEDs - pulse-width modulation.
Those. current pulses of optimal amplitude are applied to the LED, but the pulse duration can be adjusted, thereby changing the brightness of the glow. Since the pulse frequency is high - up to 300 kHz, no flicker is observed.
The dimmer, also called a dimmer, fails very often, especially if surge protection is not installed in the house. The fact is that these devices are very sensitive to voltage drops and, under increased load, can instantly break down. Next, we will look at the main reasons why the dimmer does not work and do-it-yourself troubleshooting methods.
- Overview of probable causes
- How to fix a breakdown
Overview of probable causes
So, first of all, let's talk about what became the "culprit" of the incorrect operation of the dimmer.
Most often, the dimmer stops working after the bulb in the chandelier or floor lamp burns out. At the moment of burnout, a short circuit may occur, as a result of which one of the most important circuit elements in the dimmer, the triac, burns out.
If the triac does not work, the entire circuit fails.
The second reason why the device may not turn on or vice versa - do not turn off the light is that the dimmer works with an energy-saving lamp.
We have already talked about the fact that for LED and fluorescent lamps you need to buy special dimmers, just designed to work with "housekeepers". At the same time, it is necessary to choose special dimmable LED lamps, and not conventional ones. If you did not take into account this requirement, then the malfunction lies precisely in this reason, which is clearly shown in the video example.
What to do so that the device can adjust the brightness of the light
Another likely cause of the malfunction is an incorrectly selected dimmer power, as a result of which it does not work as it should.
We have already said more than once that the power of a dimmer should be 30-50% more than the power of all the bulbs that it regulates.
How to install a dimmer
If you missed this moment and inserted too powerful light sources into the lamp, it is not strange why the dimmer does not turn off the light or does not dim the lamps. We talked about how to choose a dimmer in a separate article. Well, the last thing to say is that perhaps the problem is in the wiring on the site: a chandelier-switch.
How to fix a breakdown
Now let's do the following - consider the main malfunctions of dimmers and immediately provide DIY repair tips.
If the device does not turn on the light, first check the fuse installed under the decorative cover. With voltage drops, it can burn out, protecting the rest of the circuit elements from failure. Replacing the fuse is not difficult, especially since the leading dimmer manufacturers (Schneider, Legrand) include a spare fuse in the kit, as shown in the photo below.
When the dimmer does not adjust the brightness of the lighting, does not turn off and does not turn on after the bulb in the lamp burns out, you need to move on to a more serious repair, because.
most likely, the triac does not work - it burned out during a short circuit. You can try to replace this element of the circuit yourself, for this you need a soldering iron and, accordingly, skills in working with these tools. You may also need a drill with a thin drill (we'll tell you why). In order to be able to solder the broken triac and solder a new one, you need to remove the aluminum radiator from the board, which is more likely to be fastened with a rivet.
You need to carefully drill out the rivet, then unsolder the triac itself and install exactly the same, but intact. For all these cases, we recommend using a homemade mini drill and a homemade soldering iron. 
If you use a dimmer with conventional energy-saving bulbs, we recommend that you change the bulbs for special ones as soon as possible, because
unsuitable housekeepers must not be used. 
And finally - if not only the dimmer does not work, but the usual key switch does not turn on the light, then the problem is in the wiring itself.
Perhaps the wires are short somewhere, and perhaps the problem is a malfunction of the chandelier itself. Here you already need to take a multimeter and ring all sections of the circuit.
Here, in fact, are all the main causes of device malfunction. We hope that now you know why the dimmer does not work and, most importantly, how to repair the dimmer with your own hands! Finally, I would like to note that these devices are very sensitive and due to the existing problems with voltage drops, it is highly not recommended to use them without stabilizers!
Relatively recently, the only available option for adjusting the brightness of lighting fixtures was to install a device called a rheostat. At the same time, the power of such rheostats was approximately at the same level as the load. Of course, one could turn a blind eye to this, however, with a decrease in the brightness of the lighting, the power consumption did not decrease in any way - the excess power was simply dissipated. Therefore, rheostats were used to control brightness only where there was a need for this, for example, in theaters.
However, the situation has changed dramatically with the appearance on the market of semiconductors, known as triac and dinistor. It is on the basis of them that modern ones are designed, allowing you to quickly and conveniently adjust the brightness of the lighting.
Video - How the dimmer works
A standard dimmer is connected like an ordinary one, i.e. to break the power supply circuit of the lighting device. The dimensions of the regulator in question and the fasteners for its installation in a niche also coincide with those of a simple switch. Therefore, anyone who has an idea of how to connect traditional light switches can handle the installation of a dimmer. The only important point: the outputs to the load and phase must be connected strictly in accordance with the diagram provided by the manufacturer.
All dimmers presented today can be divided into 2 large classes: rotary (they are also rotary) and push-button (electronic).
Table. Some types of dimmers
| Types of dimmers | Explanations |
|---|---|
| Dimmer for incandescent lamps and for halogen lamps with a voltage level of 220 V | In this case, it is the magnitude of the applied voltage that determines the intensity of the glow of the lamp filament. |
| Dimmer for low voltage transformer powered halogen lamps | Responsible for converting the output voltage of the dimmer to the desired value. If the lamps are designed for a voltage of 12-24 V, then an electronic transformer is required to provide soft control of the current source. |
| LED dimmer (led dimmer) and dimmer for fluorescent lamps. | The task of a dimmer for LEDs is to quickly give the desired results and smoothly adjust the power of the light fluxes. |
| Touch dimmer | The main difference between the touch device (viko dimmer) is the ability to control the luminous flux with a barely noticeable touch on a certain area of the button. Can be equipped with an infrared receiver for remote control. |
| Assumes easy rotation of the rotary element. | |
| push dimmer | Assumes multiple key presses |
| Single dimmer | It can be used both for one lamp and for a number of light sources combined into a common group. |
| Group dimmer | To control multiple light sources at once. |
Rotary controls are the most widely used. The control of the intensity of illumination by such devices is carried out by simply turning the knob in the desired direction. Push-button dimmers are more convenient and flexible in terms of controlling the brightness of light. Additionally, electronic dimmers allow you to connect buttons in parallel and control lighting from several different locations. In practice, the number of such places is limited to 3-5. In this case, the length of the wire should not exceed 10 m.
Also on the market is a group of devices that allow you to control the brightness of lighting remotely using a remote control. However, such dimmers are much more expensive than the analogs discussed above.
The most popular, as already noted, are rotary-type dimmers. That's what we'll cover in this guide.
Video - Simple LED lamp and dimmer
Features of the dimmer device and its connection diagram
Rotary dimmers from different manufacturers have the same device - only their quality differs. Also, certain differences may be present in the internal equipment of the regulators: the design of some of them includes additional elements that have a positive effect on the stability of the dimmer and improve the smoothness of dimming.
Dimmers work according to the following principle. In order for the lighting lamp to turn on, a current must pass through the triac of the dimmer. To do this, a certain voltage must appear between the electrodes of the mentioned semiconductor. It appears as follows.
When a positive half-wave occurs, the capacitor is charged by means of a potentiometer. In this case, the charge rate of the capacitor directly depends on the characteristics of the potentiometer. The key function of the potentiometer is to change the phase angle. When the voltage on the capacitor rises to a value sufficient to open the semiconductors of the dimmer, the triac opens. At this stage, its resistance decreases, which allows the lighting device to burn until the end of the half-wave. The negative half-wave behaves similarly to the positive one, because dinistor and triac are symmetrical, so the direction of the current for them is of no fundamental importance.
As a result, the voltage supplied to the load is “echoes” of half-waves following one after another at a frequency of about 100 Hz. It is because of this that flickering may appear when the lighting device is turned on at minimum brightness.
The parameters of the structural elements of the regulator can vary from different manufacturing companies, but the principle of operation of the devices practically does not change from this. The properties of resistors and capacitors only affect the characteristics of the ignition points, as well as the stability of the lighting device. So, the smallest brightness of light is provided at the minimum value of the resistance of the resistor, and the highest, respectively, at the maximum.
It is allowed to include any triacs in a practical circuit, taking into account the load power. However, the allowable voltage of the devices should not be less than 400V, because. the value of instantaneous voltage in domestic electrical networks can "jump" up to 350V.
Video - How to choose a dimmer
Connecting and operating a dimmer: what should everyone know?
Before you buy a dimmer and install it instead of a regular switch, read the important facts about the device in question.
Many users are mistaken in believing that installing a dimmer will significantly reduce lighting costs. In reality, with the minimum brightness of the lamps, the savings are unlikely to exceed 10-15%. The dimmer will simply dissipate the remaining "extra" energy.
Connection and operation of dimmers must be carried out in compliance with the following rules:
- The controller must not be overheated. The maximum allowable air temperature in the room is +27 degrees;
- the value of the load connected to the regulator must be at least 40 watts. At lower values, there is a significant reduction in the service life of both lighting fixtures and the regulator itself;
- the dimmer can only be used in combination with lighting fixtures listed in the technical data sheet.
The considered regulators are designed to work with certain types of load. So, most dimmer models can only be used to control the brightness of halogen lamps and incandescent bulbs. It is impossible to use them in combination with LED lamps and most energy-saving lighting fixtures, because. this will cause them to break very quickly.
If you need to connect a dimmer to, buy a regulator model specially designed for this.
Be sure to first check with the store employee whether the purchased dimmer is designed to work in conjunction with the lighting sources in your home. Also make sure that the wattage of the regulator matches the total wattage of the fixtures in your home.
Instructions for installing a dimmer instead of a conventional switch
Replacing a traditional switch with a rotary control will not cause any difficulties, because. they are installed in the same way. You just need to carefully study the technology and follow the established sequence.
First step. We turn off the electricity supply and additionally make sure that it is absent using a special indicator screwdriver.
Second step. We remove the button of the installed switch.
Third step. We unscrew the screws that secure the decorative frame of the switch, and remove it.
Fourth step. We unscrew the fixing screws and take the mechanism out of the mounting box. We can install the dimmer in the same box.
Fifth step. We unscrew the electrical wires from the switch.
Sixth step. We see two free wires.
One of them (supply phase) is connected to the switch, the second - to the chandelier. We carefully study the diagram given in the instructions for the dimmer or on the cover of its case.
In the case of dimmers, as noted, you must strictly adhere to the connection procedure recommended by the manufacturer. We connect the phase cable (it is red in the diagram) to the dimmer terminal, signed as L-in. The next cable (it is orange in the diagram) is connected to the regulator terminal, signed L-out.
Seventh step. We insert the dimmer into the mounting box. To do this, carefully bend the wires, insert the regulator into the socket, tighten the spacer screws, attach the decorative frame, fix it with screws and install the adjusting wheel.
We connect the wires and insert the dimmer into the box eighth step. We check the operation of the installed dimmer, after turning on the electricity supply. To check, turn the dimmer knob until it clicks in a counterclockwise direction - the lamps will not light up. We smoothly turn the regulator clockwise - after a similar click on the lamps, the voltage will gradually increase, as evidenced by a gradual increase in the brightness of the light.
The dimmer is connected and working properly. We can accept it for permanent operation.
Successful work!
Video - Dimmer connection diagram
Video - Connecting an LED strip to a mini dimmer
A dimmer is a special power regulator with which you can change the intensity of the glow of incandescent lamps or LEDs. Sellers of electrical goods, this device is known by two more names - a variator and a dimmer. And the most prudent homeowners know it as a very effective way to save on bills. Therefore, in this article we will consider typical varieties of dimmers, evaluate their advantages and disadvantages, and deal with ways to connect variators to the network.
Five reasons to buy a dimmer
We can name at least five reasons that justify the purchase of dimmers:
- 1. Thanks to the variator, the service life of incandescent lamps, halogens and LEDs is increased by 20 times, which is very beneficial, especially considering the high price of some lighting products.
- 2. The average daily consumption of electricity is reduced by 15-55 percent (depending on the type of source). For this, dimmers are valued both in everyday life and in production.
- 3. Dimmers allow you to build a remote home lighting control system. Without such a regulator, it is impossible to build a single smart home or watchdog system that repels intruders.
- 4. The variator increases the efficiency and presentability of interior lighting. It is almost impossible to create something interesting and original without using light controllers.
- 5. The dimmer can also be used as a normal switch. Therefore, even very conservative users can easily cope with such devices.
As you can see, the advantages of such regulators are more than obvious. Therefore, most modern houses are equipped not with traditional push-button switches, but with dimmers. However, only the most far-sighted homeowners who have chosen the optimal variator model receive the maximum benefit from the purchase. Therefore, we will have to study the device and features of typical varieties of such devices.
How devices work - an overview of typical design solutions
The first variators were assembled on the basis of the simplest device for dosing voltage in the network - a rheostat. He took away part of the power from lighting devices, transforming it into thermal energy on a resistance coil, reducing the intensity of heating and glowing of the tungsten filament in the lamp. However, at the minimum brightness of incandescent lamps, the rheostat regulators got very hot (a lot of energy was spent on the coil), which affected the overall fire safety of dwellings.
The next generation of dimmers worked on the basis of autotransformers - devices with a combined primary and secondary winding. Such a transformer guarantees the presence of not only magnetic, but also electrical connection between the circuits. And if you organize several conclusions from the windings, then different voltages can be removed from them. As a result, by switching between the autotransformer terminals, the user can also change the brightness of the lamp by controlling the potential difference (voltage). However, the price of such a variator did not differ from the cost of an average transformer. Another disadvantage of the design was a solid weight.
Therefore, the next generation of dimmers was assembled on the basis of semiconductors, using transistor or seven-story switches. They cut off the AC voltage sine wave, responding to the pumping of the thyristor and dinistor, which were connected to the diode bridge, capacitors and variable resistors. Due to this, both the effective value of the current strength and the voltage changed at the terminals of the regulating unit. That is, in fact, the semiconductor key passed only the necessary sections of the sinusoid of the AC voltage to the lamp, cutting off the power of the consuming device.
At the same time, the adjustment mechanism itself was placed in a relatively small case, did not heat up and was very cheap. A significant drawback of the semiconductor version was the strong fluctuations of the electromagnetic field, which disrupt the operation of consumer electronics. Therefore, in the latest models, along with a semiconductor switch, a capacitive or induction choke is also present in the design of the regulator, which levels electromagnetic oscillations. And such a variator can already be installed instead of a switch, without fear of consequences for routers and mobile phones.
The only disadvantage of a modern semiconductor dimmer with a choke is the complete inability to control devices supplied by currents with a minimum coefficient of non-linear distortion. That is, such a regulator cannot be put on an electric motor, fluorescent lamp or induction device.
The main types of dimmers - modern classification
The entire range of manufacturers of modern CVTs can be classified according to three criteria: firstly, by design features (execution), secondly, by the type of implementation of the mechanism for controlling the operation of the device, and, thirdly, by the type of lamps, the glow of which is controlled by a dimmer. According to the first sign, the assortment is divided into three basic groups: modular, combined and monoblock. The first group includes dimmers mounted in a distribution cabinet. They control lighting in the common passage area - in the foyer, corridors, flights of stairs.
The second group includes regulators with a switch. Moreover, the governing bodies in this case are divided. The switch has one button, and the dimmer has another. The third group includes dimmer switches mounted instead of traditional breakers. These devices are used to control lighting in specific rooms or individual areas. They are placed in switch boxes.
According to the second feature, the assortment is divided into five groups:
- Rotary - here a "washer" is used for control, rotated around an axis.
- Turn-push - it works similarly, but the "washer" will have to be drowned in the panel before turning. Such a regulator is protected from excessive children's curiosity.
- Keyboard - it is controlled by buttons, and there are usually two of them. One is responsible for adjusting the light, and the second is for turning it on and off.
- Touch - in this case, the panels of the same name are used for control, and you can adjust the lamp with just one movement of your finger.
- Remote - with such a scheme, the controls are placed on an external remote control that sends infrared rays to the base unit, in which only the mechanism for implementing these commands remains.
However, some models can be attributed to two groups at once. For example, almost any remote dimmer is equipped with a sensor, keys or a rotary "washer". With the help of these elements, a manual control mechanism is implemented. In addition, it is very common to see a hybrid of rotary and keyboard groups.
According to the third sign, the assortment is divided into only two groups: standard and low-voltage. The first includes conventional lamps powered by 220 volts. The second group includes light sources powered by low-voltage networks of 12-24 volts. At the same time, standard dimmers control the operation of incandescent lamps and, and low-voltage dimmers control halogen sources and LED strips. Therefore, step-down transformers are sometimes included in the design of low-voltage variators.
Firstly, the dimmer is mounted in the network only if incandescent lamps or adjustable LED or halogen sources are used. Conventional LED lamps are regulated using variators with some difficulty.
Secondly, it makes sense to connect only those sources (or groups of sources) of luminescence, the power of which exceeds 40 watts, to the control device. Dimmers do not lower the power below this mark, therefore, such regulators are not installed on single 10- or 15-watt LED lamps, but on 4-6 sources (in a chandelier or false ceiling) with similar indicators - very easily.
Thirdly, try to choose a model with built-in fuses. They will save you from possible troubles associated with overheating of the line or the dimmer itself. Relying only on the RCD in this case would be unreasonable. In addition, the fuse will protect the variator from a short circuit caused by a blown bulb.
Fourthly, if you want to regulate only the intensity of the glow, choose manual dimmers (keyboard, touch, rotary). If your goal is to install a security system that simulates the presence of people in the house (turning on the lights in the evening in different rooms, and so on), then you will have to buy remote variators. Moreover, some models are able to respond not only to the remote control, but also to signals from the internal modem. These dimmers can be controlled by phone.
Fifth, when buying a control device, try to choose a model that is focused on the total maximum power of the light sources connected to the variator. Of course, it is possible to connect a dimmer to a source with low or high power (compared to the passport one), but it is not necessary - it will not give the expected savings.
Sixth, if you are changing a standard switch to a variator, buy only a monoblock model. Its shape is designed for a standard "glass" embedded in the wall. Therefore, replacing one regulator with another option will not cause difficulties even for an inexperienced electrician.
Seventh, monitor the temperature in the house and do not mount the variators in hot areas - on a wall constantly illuminated by the sun, near a gas stove or battery. The thin electronics of the dimmers works correctly only if the temperature inside its case does not exceed 25-27 degrees Celsius.
We change the switch to a dimmer - an electrician's instruction
If you are interested in a simple connection of the variator, in which it is, then you are better off proceeding according to the following scheme:
- 1. We turn off the apartment or house from the mains by lowering the flag on the central switch to the off position.
- 2. We dismantle the switch by removing the key and unscrewing the screws under it. At the end, remove the wires from the switch terminals.
- 3. We disassemble the dimmer by removing the front panel.
- 4. We mount the power wires on the dimmer terminals. One is connected to the connector with the letter L, the second - to the connector marked with a slanted arrow and a wavy line.
- 5. We insert the variator case into the switch glass and fix it with screws.
- 6. We mount the front panel of the dimmer in place.
If you need to install both a switch and a dimmer, the wiring diagram will be slightly different:
- 1. We equip a box (glass) under the switch in the wall near the door.
- 2. We cut a box for a dimmer at the head of the bed or the back of the sofa (chair).
- 3. We break through the strobe in the wall from the glow source to the glasses. The phase from the wire connected to the lamp will go through this channel.
- 4. We start the wire to the switch, and then to the dimmer.
- 5. From the dimmer, the wire is fed to the lamp.
If you do everything right, the switch will power the dimmer, and you can adjust the intensity of the glow in the room without getting up from your bed or sofa. And after leaving the room, the light can be turned off using the switch by the door.
If you need to equip a pair of walk-through switches with a common dimmer, you need to follow the following sequence of actions:
- 1. We equip three boxes (two for switches and one for the variator).
- 2. We cut lines from the distributor to the lamp and boxes.
- 3. We lay a zero core from the distributor to the lamp.
- 4. We start the phase wire to the L contact of the dimmer and to the upper terminals of the first and second switches, connecting them in parallel.
- 5. We bring the core from the terminal with an arrow and a wavy line of the dimmer to the lamp.
- 6. We connect another wire to the adjacent or the same contact of the variator, which we put on the lower terminals of the first and second switches, connecting them to the wire in parallel.
Now, if everything is done correctly, by closing one of the switches, you will apply current to the variator and you can adjust the intensity of the glow. And in this case, you can put one switch at the beginning of the corridor, and the other at the end. And to control the operation of the light source, you can use a common dimmer.