Growing plants without soil: technology, methods, results. Hydroponics is a unique method of growing without soil. What is growing plants without soil called?

Anyone who is going to start growing plants without soil needs to carefully study the theory so as not to remain artisans for life.

Indeed, anyone can purchase a ready-made hydropot, plant a beautiful plant in it and care for it in accordance with the instructions. But at the same time, it will be impossible to understand the interconnections of the system being created and the processes hidden in it. This will clearly not be enough to understand the life processes of plants, and it is precisely this kind of knowledge that is most interesting for us.

Where to grow plants - in or without soil

Soil is the primary factor in agricultural production, this has been known since time immemorial. People have long believed that natural soil containing humus, in which there is an infinite number of small and minute organisms, is a prerequisite for normal plant growth. But it turned out that it is quite possible to do without soil, and this statement is completely justified.

Those who grow plants on the ground understand the expression “soil ripeness” very well. This means the soil is rich in nutrients and can produce the highest yields. What properties should the soil have, especially “ripe” soil, in order for the plants on it to develop most luxuriantly?

Soil is a weathered and plant-populated loose layer of the globe, which can be considered as a three-phase system in which these three phases, liquid, solid and gaseous, are always present. The mutual ratio of solid, liquid and gaseous phases, in which the soil becomes a place favorable for plant habitation, should be in the proportion 50; 25; 25. That is, the soil consists of half a porous structure, half filled with solution and half with air.

Soil solids

Soil consists primarily of inorganic solid materials. These are products of rock weathering: they can be large fragments and smallest particles. The solid phase of the soil also includes an organic component - decomposition products of plants and animals, as well as metabolic products of animals and microorganisms. Natural soil contains many microorganisms that feed on its organic matter. This process leads to the complete decomposition of organic substances producing water and carbon dioxide. At the same time, mineral food products contained in organic matter are transformed into a form that allows plants to easily absorb them.

At the same time, microorganisms ensure the passage of complex chemical and biological processes, due to which inorganic particles continue to erode, resulting in the release of new nutrients needed by plants. Consequently, the totality of microorganisms living in the soil plays an important role and, together with weathering factors, ensures the continuous replenishment of the sources of nutrients present in the soil.

This mineralization process makes it possible to obtain plant nutrients in the form of phosphoric, nitric and sulfuric acid, combined in calcium, magnesium and potassium salts. In the same way, microelements important for life are released - copper, boron, manganese and others. Plants can absorb these chemical compounds necessary for nutrition only together with water, which dissolves them and allows them to move.

Consequently, soil moisture is a nutrient solution, and the substances contained in it are extremely important for plant nutrition. Only the soil solution with the substances it contains is a source of plant nutrition. Organic compounds are suitable as food sources only after they are completely decomposed by microbes.

Plants are 95% dry organic matter, which is formed from water and carbon dioxide by the plant itself with the participation of solar energy. They are never extracted from the soil in finished form, and the soil is only the source of 5% of the missing mineral compounds.

Liquid component of soil

Plants require water not only as a solvent for minerals and as a carrier. It also represents the nutrient with which the plant is built. It also performs various phytophysiological tasks such as promoting the swelling of colloids. Plants cannot grow without water, and in general any life is impossible without it. If the soil lacks moisture, the yield will be significantly reduced.

Gaseous component of soil

Soil air is extremely important, and it is not in vain that we organize soil aeration through special treatment. Any living creature must breathe, and oxygen is necessary for its existence. This applies not only to plant roots and storage organs located in the soil - bulbs, tubers, but also to other organisms located in the soil. If the soil surface becomes compacted and air exchange becomes difficult, or if there is excess water in the soil displacing soil air, the underground parts of the plants begin to lack oxygen.

In this case, living organisms inhabiting the soil may compete with cultivated plants. Therefore, it is necessary to constantly ensure that the underground parts of plants are also abundantly supplied with oxygen.

Conditions for growing plants without soil

Having figured out what the ripe soil should be like, on which plants develop best, we can draw a conclusion about what the necessary conditions may be for the soilless cultivation of full-fledged plants.

For each plant it is necessary to provide a place where it can establish roots. In this case, it does not matter where exactly the roots will be located - in graphy or rice husk, coal slag or peat chips. The substrate plays a purely physical role and has nothing to do with plant nutrition; therefore, a nutrient solution is necessary.

The nutrient solution is a natural source for plant nutrition, and it must contain all the compounds that the plant needs for abundant growth and high-quality fruiting. In this case, the required form of these compounds, sufficient concentration and correct ratios are necessary. Thanks to numerous experiments with nutrient solutions, the needs of most cultivated plants were clarified, and it became possible to develop recipes for nutrient solutions.

If the solution is periodically renewed and regularly monitored, replenishing the decreasing components, the plants will be provided with adequate nutrition. Microorganisms present in natural soil are not needed at all when growing plants without soil, since a ready-made nutrient solution is used. Plants receive nutrition from it in a form that they can absorb without any preliminary processing. None of the artificial substrates require the action of soil microorganisms, which in natural soil provide the formation of soil aggregates.

Therefore, it is possible to select materials that, after pre-treatment, correspond to the structure of mature soil, namely 50% solid fraction and 50% porous space. This ensures a good supply of oxygen to the roots in their growth zone; using the correct method of supplying the nutrient solution allows for optimal air supply to the plants.

Thus, growing plants completely without soil is quite possible. You just need to learn to imitate the processes that occur in the soil. If our pets are provided in full with what is present in fertile soil, the same goal will be achieved - abundant growth of healthy plants.

What is hydroponics, features of growing plants without soil with your own hands

Hydroponics at home is a method of cultivating plants without using soil. The technology is common in countries with arid climates, where there is a lack of fertile land and water for irrigation. In Russia, the method has gained popularity in small farms. Using this method, greens, tomatoes, cucumbers, radishes and indoor flowers are grown in the apartment.

What is growing plants without soil?

The culture is placed in a solid substrate: expanded clay, crushed stone, or left suspended in the air. The plant receives the necessary substances for growth and maturation from water and nutrient solution. Hydroponics is a new, environmentally friendly and progressive method of producing vegetables and fruits. Landing is also possible in an apartment.

Source: Depositphotos

Hydroponics technology at home

Necessary equipment for growing plants using the soilless method in an apartment:

• substrate - earth is replaced by expanded clay, crushed granite, coconut fiber, less often glass, quartz or mineral wool;
• dishes - a spacious container that does not allow light to pass through is suitable; choose clay or plastic pots;
• nutrient solution - it is poured into a prepared container; products are available in gardening stores, for each type of plant there is a special composition and concentration level.

The technology is available to people with different income levels and without experience in agricultural technology. Equipment and maintenance costs are minimal: the substrate does not require replacement, the nutrient solution should be updated once every 2–3 months.

DIY technology for growing plants without soil

Crops obtained by soilless cultivation do not differ in taste from vegetables or fruits from the garden. In addition, they retain useful microelements and vitamins.

Algorithm of actions:

• choose a suitable plant;
• buy a nutrient solution and substrate that have suitable characteristics in the store;
• prepare the container; use ready-made dishes or make your own: find two pots of different sizes; in the smaller one, make holes with a nail or knitting needle;
• fill the smaller container 1/3 with the substrate, lower it into the larger one;
• place the crop seeds or already germinated sprout in a soil substitute;
• fill the dishes with a nutrient solution, make sure that the liquid covers the roots by 2/3;
• for aeration, use a compressor that supplies oxygen to the solution.

To easily monitor the liquid level, use a level with a scale. At the same time, provide the planting with light for up to 8–10 hours a day. If there is a lack of natural light, use lamps.

Using this method, in an apartment it is possible to obtain environmentally friendly vegetables, fruits and herbs at no extra cost all year round.

Hydroponics is a method of growing plants without soil, in which the plant receives from solution all the necessary nutrients in the required quantities and exact proportions (which is almost impossible to achieve when growing in soil).

Hydroponics has great advantages over conventional (soil) growing methods:

• The plant always receives the substances it needs in the required quantities, it grows strong and healthy, and much faster than in the soil. At the same time, the yield of fruit and flowering of ornamental plants increases several times.
• Plant roots never suffer from drying out or lack of oxygen due to waterlogging, which inevitably happens when growing in soil.
• Since water consumption is easier to control, there is no need to water the plants every day. Depending on the chosen container and growing system, you need to add water much less frequently - from once every three days to once a month.
• There is no problem of lack of fertilizers or their overdose.
• Many problems of soil pests and diseases (nematodes, mole crickets, sciarids, fungal diseases, rot, etc.) disappear, which eliminates the need for the use of pesticides.
• The process of replanting perennial plants is greatly simplified - there is no need to free the roots from the old soil and inevitably injure them. You just need to transfer the plant into a large bowl and add more substrate.
• There is no need to buy new soil for replanting, which greatly reduces the cost of growing indoor plants.
• Since the plant receives only the elements it needs, it does not accumulate substances harmful to human health that are inevitably present in the soil (heavy metals, toxic organic compounds, radionuclides, excess nitrates, etc.), which is very important for fruit plants.
• Well, and finally, there is no need to tinker with the soil: your hands are always clean; hydroponic vessels weigh little; the house, balcony or greenhouse is clean and tidy, there are no foreign odors flying over the sciarid pots, and other unpleasant factors associated with soil cultivation.

Once you have mastered a few basic concepts, you can grow almost anything with much less labor than soil. In the case of using automated solution circulation systems (some of which are very easy to assemble at home), labor costs for watering and fertilizing plants disappear altogether.

• The simplest hydroponic vessel is made in two minutes from an ordinary plastic pot and any suitable larger container (this container must hold a sufficient amount of water, be chemically inert and not allow light to pass through). A good example is a liter paper bag of shelf-stable juice or milk, placed on its side with a hole precisely cut (from the seam side) for the pot. The pot with the substrate should be immersed in the solution by 1–2 centimeters.
• The substrate (expanded clay, vermiculite, perlite, mineral wool, coconut fiber, any inert chemical fiber (polypropylene threads, nylon, nylon, etc.), foam rubber, etc.) costs the same or much less (depending on what at your fingertips) than a portion of land of similar volume. But the soil, unlike the substrate, must be changed annually when replanting.
• One liter of the final solution is enough for one small (such as a small begonia or fuchsia) plant per year, that is, a jar of concentrate intended for 50 liters of solution will be enough for 50 years, or for the annual maintenance of 50 plants.

Plants suitable for hydroponics:
Almost any plant grown from seed or cuttings is suitable. In the case of transplanting adult plants, it is better to give preference to plants with coarse, thick roots that are easy to clear from the soil. It is not recommended to convert mature plants with delicate root systems to hydroponics.

Soak the earthen ball for several hours with water at room temperature. (for example, in a bucket). After this, carefully separate the soil under water, and then gently wash the roots with a light stream of water at room temperature. After cleaning the roots from soil residues, straighten them downwards, and, holding the plant, cover the roots with the substrate (it is not necessary for the plant to directly touch the water layer with its roots - the solution will rise up through the capillaries of the substrate, reaching the roots; subsequently they themselves will grow to the required depth). After this, water the substrate on top with plain water, pour the required level of water into the vessel, and leave the plant for about a week. Only after this can the water be replaced with a solution.

Important: Do not pour the solution immediately after transplantation!

Basic concepts:

• Solution concentration. Strictly adhere to the manufacturer's recommended solution concentration. Try to maintain the volume of solution in the hydroponic vessel more or less constant by adding plain (preferably settled) water. Once every three months (depending on the manufacturer’s recommendations), completely replace the solution. Some plants (epiphytes such as bromeliads, orchids and others such as insectivorous plants) require much lower concentrations (2–4 times), while for very fast growing plants (such as banana) a higher concentration of approximately 1.5 is recommended times the concentration of the solution. For annual vegetable crops, the recommended concentration is approximately 1.25 times higher than the average. In winter, during the dormant period, the concentration should be reduced by approximately 2–3 times from normal, and the water level, depending on the severity of the dormant period, should also be reduced to a minimum.
• Acidity of the solution (pH). Modern hydroponic formulations are designed so that the pH is approximately 5.6 (optimal for most plants) and does not deviate much from this value during operation (some plants require other pH values, for example, azaleas and gardenias - more acidic pH = 5, and palm trees - more alkaline pH = 7). The most accurate device for monitoring pH is an electronic pH meter, but it is quite expensive and difficult to use. The simplest and most reliable means are acidity tests produced specifically for aquariums; they are quite accurate, inexpensive, and easy to use (universal test strips are not suitable due to their low accuracy). Reagents for measuring and changing pH are sold at zoological markets and in the aquarium departments of pet stores.

A simple recipe for preparing the solution:
To prepare one liter of solution, you will need two components (a 5-ml syringe, sold in every pharmacy, is well suited for dosage):

• 1.67 ml of complex fertilizer "Uniflor Bud" or "Uniflor Growth" (depending on the type of crop - "Bud" is more for fruiting and flowering, and "Growth" is for the growth of green parts of plants) per liter of water.
• Add 2 ml of a 25% solution of calcium nitrate (to prepare the solution, dilute 250 g of tetrahydrate calcium (not potassium!) nitrate in 1 liter of water). This amount of KS is given for soft (such as St. Petersburg or distilled water). The final amount of calcium in this dilution is approximately 100 mg/l. In the case of hard water, it is recommended to find out (from local water utilities or sanitary epidemiologists) the concentration of calcium per liter of water and add the appropriate amount of calcium.
• Attention! Do not mix concentrated solutions 1 and 2 before diluting them with water! It is better to use different syringes for solutions 1 and 2, or be sure to rinse the syringe before measuring another solution.

Causes of mold:

To prevent the development of mold, it is necessary to ventilate the room more often, keep it clean and periodically disinfect the surfaces of window sills, shelves where flowers are located, plant care equipment and other things.

Sometimes a white coating on the surface of the soil can be caused by excessively hard water for irrigation. Citric acid diluted in a ratio of 1 tsp will help soften such water. per liter of water.
Various fungicides will help in the fight against mold. In critical cases, an emergency plant transplant is necessary to remove part of the root system affected by mold.

• Woodlice.
• White bugs (fools)
• Nematodes.
• Bulb root mite.

Soil moisture indicator for indoor flowers

To determine soil moisture, it is recommended to use moisture indicators. Using this device will help avoid problems associated with excessive watering. Simply introduce the indicator into the soil and determine whether the plant needs watering.

hydroponics aeroponics).

Hydroponics: technology for growing indoor flowers without soil

With this growing method, plants obtain the necessary nutrients from aqueous solutions. The most common recipe for such a solution is considered to be the solution of the German scientist, one of the founders of hydroponics, F. Knopp. For hydroponic growing of plants at home, you can purchase ready-made hydroponic nutrient solutions.

In general, this method can be used to grow absolutely any plant.
In general, hydroponic growing of plants is a fairly simple process that will help avoid soil-related problems.

Growing plants without soil

The book outlines the basics of modern methods of industrially growing plants without soil. Various types of installations are described, recipes for nutrient solutions are given, features of caring for plants when grown without soil, and methods for monitoring the chemical composition of the nutrient solution are described in detail.

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History of the method The hydroponics method was based on the study of root nutrition of plants. Many scientists have worked hard for decades to discover what the root extracts from the soil. It was possible to understand this as a result of experiments in growing plants in water (water culture method). Certain mineral salts are dissolved in distilled water, except for the salts of the chemical element whose significance for plant life they want to find out. The plant is grown in this solution in a glass jar. Experiments have shown that the plant develops well only if the salt solution contains potassium, calcium, iron, magnesium, sulfur, phosphorus and nitrogen. If potassium is removed from the nutrient solution, plant growth stops. Without calcium, the root system cannot develop. Magnesium and iron are necessary for the plant to form chlorophyll. Without sulfur and phosphorus, the proteins that make up the protoplasm and nucleus are not formed. For a long time it was thought that only these elements were necessary for the normal development of plants. But then it turned out that the plant also needs very small amounts of other elements, which are why they were called microelements. Around the same time in the nineteenth century, the German botanist F. Knop, and in Russia K. A. Timiryazev and D. N. Pryanishnikov developed for scientific purposes a method of plant culture in aqueous solutions of inorganic compounds. In 1936, Gericke USA tested growing vegetables in solutions, calling this method hydroponics. The first successful experiments in growing vegetables in solutions without soil in our country were carried out in 1938-1939. Initially, hydroponics plants were grown exclusively in an aquatic environment. But in water culture, the oxygen supply to the roots turned out to be unsatisfactory, the solution reaction was unstable, individual roots and entire plants quickly died off. Therefore, purely water plant culture did not find application, but other methods were subsequently developed. Their essence boils down to the fact that plant roots are placed in some relatively inert substrate. The substrate and roots are immersed in a solution of all the nutrients the plants need. Depending on the substrate used, methods such as Aggregatoponics- when the roots are placed in solid inert, inorganic substrates - crushed stone, gravel, expanded clay, sand, etc.; Chemoponics- in which the root substrate is moss, high-moor peat, sawdust and other organic materials that are inaccessible for direct plant nutrition; Ionitoponics substrate made of ion exchange materials; Aeroponics there is no solid substrate, the roots hang in the air of a darkened chamber. Vessels for indoor plants grown hydroponically Indoor plants are placed in hydropots - double pots or vessels (one inside the other). Pots must meet certain requirements. The outer vessel should not allow water to pass through. The inner pot should have slits or holes for active interaction of the roots with the hydroponic solution. The outer pot should not be transparent. Both pots or vessels should be made of a material that does not react with the nutrient solution. Fired clay or glazed ceramic pots are better suited for this. A coating of mineral salts will not appear in glazed pots. The most suitable shape for the outer pot is spherical, since its volume will be larger than that of a regular pot. The inner pot can be made from a regular plastic pot or from a plastic bottle. Hydroponic pots have long been available in specialized stores. At the same time, the outer vessel is completely waterproof, made of various materials and has a beautiful decorative appearance. The inner vessel is usually made of plastic and is equipped with a liquid level indicator. This device has marks at three levels - the minimum amount of solution, optimal and maximum. It would be more correct to add the nutrient solution when the liquid level indicator drops to the minimum point. In this case, you need to add enough water so that the liquid level float rises to the optimal value. The amount of liquid is brought to the maximum value only in cases where the plants are left without watering for a long time, for example, during vacation. Substrates With the hydroponic growing method, inert soil substitutes are used: gravel, vermiculite, perlite, expanded clay, coarse sand, moss, peat. By the name of the substrates used in pure form or a mixture, the name of the cultivation method is given: gravel culture, sand culture, peat culture, etc. Inert substrates are easy to disinfect, do not enter into chemical reactions with mineral salts dissolved in water and provide good air access to the roots. The substrate must have the following properties: it is easy to pass air and solution, it is well wetted by it; it does not enter into a chemical combination with dissolved substances; it has a slightly acidic or neutral reaction; it does not interfere with the development of the root system and keeps the plant in an upright position. With proper use, granite and quartz substrates can be used for up to 10 years, expanded clay and perlite for 6-10 years, and vermiculite for only 2-3 years. growing plants without soil Expanded clay To grow plants hydroponically, a substrate made of small expanded clay (0.1 - 0.5 cm) is usually used, as it has better water-holding capacity. Expanded clay is breathable, water-permeable, and moisture-retentive. The roots are well retained and moisturized in it. A plant planted in expanded clay is not injured, the root collar does not protrude to the surface, and the well-branched roots are not damaged and penetrate the entire substrate. Expanded clay does not need to be frequently disinfected in operation, it is cheap and not harmful to plants. When plants are grown for a long time (for 3 – 4 or more years) in an expanded clay substrate, it is possible that plant waste products (metabolites) can accumulate in it, which have a bad effect on the development of the plant. Therefore, expanded clay must be periodically washed with water or low concentration hydrogen peroxide (3%). Vermiculite Calcined vermiculite is used in hydroponics. As a result of firing, it acquires lightness, sterility, unique moisture capacity and durability of use. The size of the fraction is very important. The optimum for cultivating perennial and annual crops is 0.5 - 2 cm. In a substrate with finer fractions, aeration is difficult, and it is more suitable for sowing seeds, picking seedlings, rooting cuttings, or as a cultivator for soil mixtures. Burnt vermiculite is sterile (firing at high temperatures ). When fired, the mineral swells and its plates increase several times. They take the form of “accordions” with a large number of air cavities. The substrate holds an amount of water 5-6 times its own weight. At the same time, it easily absorbs and also easily releases it to plants. Very high air capacity contributes to the powerful development of the plant root system. Thanks to the mass of through slit-like pores, water or nutrient solution freely passes through the substrate plates (from pore to pore), and the particles remain in place. This does not happen, for example, in expanded clay. Its granules often float, tearing the root hairs of plants. Peat A good substrate is peat. The most suitable is sphagnum peat from high bogs, almost undecomposed, with normal ash content (no more than 12%). The relative humidity of the peat should be in the range of 60 – 65%. Drier peat is less wetted. High-ash peat can only be used as a fertilizer, but not as a substrate. The relative humidity of peat should be in the range of 60-65%; drier peat is less wet when watering plants. High-moor peat has a fairly high acidity, so before use, the peat substrate is neutralized with chalk or dolomite flour. Sand Sand should be coarse-grained, quartz. Before use, it is washed several times (until the flowing water becomes clear). It is mainly suitable for hydroponic cultivation of succulents and other plants with overhead watering, as well as for rooting cuttings. There are substrates made of granular polyethylene or glass. Of great interest are studies with substrates made of ion-exchange materials, which can be charged with ions of substances needed by plants, which can go into solution as they are absorbed by the roots. Basic methods of growing hydroponic crops 1. A nutrient solution is poured into a container or special pot and the root system of the plant is placed in it. As the solution evaporates, water is added, and after certain periods of time the solution is completely replaced with fresh one, since over time an imbalance in the proportions of nutrients occurs in the solution. A significant disadvantage of this method is that the supply of oxygen to the roots is difficult, and not all plants can tolerate this. 2. Another method uses two pots, one larger than the other. The roots of the plant are placed in a smaller pot that has many small holes and covered with gravel, expanded clay or other material. Then this pot is placed in a larger one and a nutrient solution is poured, while the roots should be immersed in the solution no more than 2/3. If it is necessary to replace the nutrient solution, remove the inner pot with the plant and allow the water to drain. The outer pot is washed and after placing the pot with the plant in it again, a fresh solution is poured. Among flower growers, the second version of the hydroponic culture technique is the most popular. Nutrient solutions and their preparation Nutrient solutions are prepared by dissolving chemical salts in water that contain nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, magnesium, calcium, sulfur, manganese (i.e. macroelements), as well as boron, copper, zinc and other microelements necessary for development. The nutrient solution must contain all elements in ratios that do not exceed the rate of consumption by plants. Plants absorb nutrients better from dilute solutions; at a concentration exceeding the optimal norm, the plants may die. The concentration of the nutrient solution may increase due to the fact that the plants absorb water more quickly with their roots than the mineral salts dissolved in it. In addition, the water partially evaporates, and this also leads to an increase in the concentration of the nutrient solution. It is especially important to monitor the nutrient solution in the summer, when the evaporation of water in the vessels increases. It is necessary that the nutrient solution in the outer vessel is always at the same level, i.e., fills it to half the volume. When the solution becomes smaller, it is topped up with water to the original volume: in summer it is usually added after 2-3 days, in winter less often. To prepare the solution, salt is taken in certain proportions. The concentration of the nutrient solution should be within 1-5 g of mineral salt per 1 liter of water. Plants react differently to the concentration of an aqueous solution of mineral salts. If it is higher than 13.5 g per 1 liter of water, a number of plant species are inhibited; at lower concentrations of 1.5-2.5 g per 1 liter, the same species develop normally. A solution concentration of 0.5-0.6 g per 1 liter of water inhibits the growth and development of plants. In winter conditions in cold rooms, it is enough for plants that are in the dormant period to be given a nutrient solution of reduced concentration - 50% of the norm. Dry salts are stored (each separately) in a glass container. For iron salts, you must take dark glass containers and store them dry. Water for preparing nutrient solutions must be clean, soft, and free of impurities. Distilled water is best. If it is not possible to purchase distilled water, you can use rainwater or additionally purified water using household filters. To soften hard water, special filter cartridges and water softener tablets (so-called pH tablets) are produced. You can also soften hard water using peat. To do this, peat at the rate of 700 g per 10 liters of water in a net is placed in a container with water and left for 10-12 hours, for example, overnight. Water filtered from peat crumbs in the morning can be used to prepare a nutrient solution or for watering plants. Each salt must be dissolved separately, in a small enamel or glass container, and then poured into a common vessel intended for the nutrient solution. Salts must be dissolved, strictly adhering to the order in which they appear in the nutritional mixture recipe. Violation of this rule may result in a precipitate of undissolved salts falling to the bottom of the vessel. Start with macronutrients, i.e. elements needed by the plant in large quantities. Magnesium sulfate is dissolved in a small amount of water and, after it has dissolved, poured into a common vessel into which a small amount of water was previously poured. Then ammonium and potassium nitrate are also dissolved, followed by potassium chloride, and finally ammonium phosphate. These salts are also dissolved separately in a small amount of water and poured into the same vessel. After pouring in the next salt solution, mix thoroughly. After mixing the general solution well, add it microelements. They are also dissolved in a certain sequence in a separate glass container in a small amount of water. First, dissolve boric acid, after acidifying the water with sulfuric acid (1-2 drops per 1 liter of water) for better dissolution. Having mixed well and made sure that it has completely dissolved, add zinc, iron, molybdenum and copper salts successively, dissolving each separately in a small amount of water. After adding the next salt, the solution is thoroughly mixed. Then the solution of microelements, with constant stirring, is poured into a vessel with a solution of macroelements. The solution prepared in this way is ready for use. The reaction of the solution is of great importance for the normal growth and development of plants. The nutrient solution for plants grown without soil should have a pH of 5.5-7.0, depending on the crop. A shift in the reaction of the solution to the alkaline side (Ph above 7) negatively affects plants; in such a solution, salts of iron, magnesium, calcium, phosphorus and manganese turn into insoluble compounds that are not absorbed by plants. Sometimes changes in the composition and concentration of a solution are insignificant, but can still adversely affect the development of plants, so it is necessary to periodically determine the acidity of the solution. The prepared solution can be stored in a sealed container for 2-3 months. A nutrient solution, ready for use, must have a temperature that is the same as the air temperature of the room in which the plants grow. Properly prepared solutions last for a long time. The solution is changed after 30-40 days, depending on the type of plant. The amount of nutrient salts in the solution depends on the plants’ need for them: in winter, potassium should predominate, in spring and summer, nitrogen. If the solution deteriorates, it must be replaced with a fresh one, densifying the substrate, reservoirs and plant roots with a small amount of potassium permanganate diluted in clean water ( Pink colour). Composition of the nutritional mixture according to Gericke (g/1 l of water)

Modern technologies: hydroponics

Home hydroponics

Hydroponics is a method of growing plants without soil, which is quite suitable for home use. The plant receives from a special solution all the necessary nutrients in the right quantities and exact proportions.

There are three main methods of growing plants in nutrient solutions: water culture - hydroponics itself; air culture - aeroponics.

Benefits of hydroponics

Home hydroponics has a number of advantages over conventional (soil) growing methods. This technology is simple and accessible - after mastering a few basic concepts, you can grow almost any plant with much less labor than soil.

In the case of using automated solution circulation systems (they are very easy to assemble at home), labor costs for watering and fertilizing plants are not required at all. Because a hydroponically grown plant always receives the nutrients it needs in the right quantities, it grows strong and healthy much faster than in soil, and its roots never suffer from drying out or lack of oxygen due to waterlogging, which inevitably happens when growing in soil. Since water flow is easier to control with the hydroponic method, there is no need to water the plants frequently.

You can safely go on vacation without fear that upon arrival you will find your pets dry or suffering from a lack of moisture.

Depending on the chosen container and growing system, you only need to add water to the system at certain intervals. In addition, your plants will never suffer from a lack of fertilizers or their overdose. Another nice feature of home hydroponics is that you do not have to deal with many soil pests and diseases (nematodes, mole crickets, sciarids, fungal diseases, rot, etc.).

Well, and finally, there is no need to replant the plant, which greatly reduces the cost and simplifies the growing process. The room where hydroponic plants are kept is always clean and tidy, there are no sciarids flying over the pots or other unpleasant factors associated with soil cultivation.

Modern hydroponic systems use exclusively plastics, with the exception of some elements made of bronze. Even the pumps are made with epoxy resin coating.

The use of materials of this type together with neutral substrates is the path to success due to durability and harmlessness to plants and humans. The simplest hydroponic vessel is made in two minutes from an ordinary plastic pot and any suitable larger container (the vessel must hold a sufficient amount of water, be chemically inert and not allow light to pass through). A good example is a paper liter bag of juice or long-life milk, placed on its side with a precisely cut hole (from the seam side) for the pot. The pot with the substrate should be immersed in the solution by 1-2 cm.

Aqueous solutions for hydroponics

A special solution containing all the compounds necessary for the plant to fully develop serves as a nutrient medium for plants in hydroponics. You can use any water suitable for drinking for the solution.

This primarily applies to rain and distilled water. With regard to waste rainwater, a reservation should be made: its use is allowed only if the roof is in satisfactory condition.

Do not collect water from a rusting roof or from a roof impregnated with resins. Water supplies should be stored in a cool, dark place to prevent algae formation.

To provide the root system with oxygen, only part of the roots is immersed in the nutrient solution. The root collar of a hydroponic plant is secured with cotton wool or foam rubber on the lid of the pot so that 1/3 of the roots are in the nutrient solution, and 2/3 of the roots are in the air space (between the solution and the lid of the pot).

The nutrient solution can be prepared at home or purchased at a flower shop.

Ready-made solutions are sold either in liquid form or in the form of water-soluble tablets. When purchasing a nutrient solution, pay attention to its purpose - whether it is really designed for growing hydroponic plants.

The solution is completely replaced monthly in the summer and once every 5-8 weeks in the winter. A simple recipe for preparing a solution for hydroponics per 1 liter: to 1.67 ml of complex fertilizer “Uniflor Bud” or “Uniflor Growth” (depending depending on the type of crop), add 2 ml of 25% calcium nitrate solution. This amount of nitrate is given for soft (for example, distilled) water.

Converting plants to hydroponics

Unpretentious plants with large roots are suitable for growing in home hydroponics (for example, chlorophytums, many aroids, ivy, asparagus and even some succulents). To transfer to hydroculture, the plant must be specially prepared.

It is better if the selected specimen is small in size and not old - it will take root better. On the eve of transplantation, water it generously or immerse the pot in a basin of water. After this, separate the soil under water and thoroughly wash the roots with a light stream of water at room temperature.

Then they are carefully placed in the inner pot, trying not to damage and evenly distribute the roots, which are lowered into the solution through the holes in the base. At first, use a diluted (1:10) nutrient solution.

In phytodesign, for decorative purposes, sometimes plants are simply placed in a transparent vessel filled with a nutrient solution (in some cases, tinted with a special dye).

It should be remembered that this method does not provide most plants with long-term existence, since the roots, deprived of free oxygen, begin to rot. In this way it is easy to germinate the seeds of some herbs and most bulbous plants, or you can use a similar method to obtain a short-term decorative effect.

Try to maintain the volume of solution in the hydroponic vessel more or less constant, adding plain (preferably settled) water as needed. Approximately every three months (depending on the manufacturer's recommendations), completely replace the solution. If possible, control the pH level in the solution (it should be approximately 5.6, which is optimal for most plants).

Ready-made hydraulic systems

If you want to transfer a plant to home hydroponics, it is most convenient to purchase a ready-made hydraulic system. There are several types of hydrosystems designed for growing indoor plants hydroponically. Modern systems usually consist of two pots.

Thanks to the features of the hydraulic system, you can easily adjust the plant’s “diet”, providing it with everything necessary for harmonious development. Substrate is an inert substance that, unlike soil, does not supply plants with any nutrients - all life support comes from the solution. The substrate provides support for the plant in the pot and allows the air and nutrients necessary for plant growth to freely penetrate.

At the same time, thanks to the substrate, the plants do not “float” in the nutrient solution, which protects them from rotting. The main difference between fertilizer for hydroponics and fertilizer for soil is that fertilizer for hydroponics contains the proper amounts of all the essential microelements that are found in fertilizers for soil are not included. If one or more microelements are not present in the soil in the proper quantities, the plant does not receive adequate nutrition. Hydroponics fertilizers typically have fewer impurities than soil fertilizers and are much more soluble in water.

Selecting plants for hydroponics

If you want to purchase ready-made plants grown hydroponically, or transfer your “pet” to hydroponics, you have virtually nothing to fear. This method can be considered quite universal, since most hydroponic plants feel great and please their owners with a well-groomed, healthy appearance.

Some gardeners believe that home hydroponics is suitable for growing essentially all indoor plants, and is best suited for deciduous and ornamental crops. But there are exceptions that you need to be aware of.

Plants that form tubers or rhizomes are least suitable for growing hydroponically, since they rot very quickly if improperly watered (for example, cyclamen). Some plants, such as tall begonia or impatiens, will need to be constantly cleared of wilted flowers or leaves to prevent them from getting into the nutrient solution.

Plants whose roots grow very quickly will have to be replanted frequently (for example, cyperus). Species that require cool dormant temperatures to flower should also not be grown hydroponically. Hydrangea, clivia or azalea may react to this by rotting the roots.

But cous lovers will be able to fully appreciate the benefits of hydroponics. Many columnar and spherical cereus cacti, various prickly pear cacti, leafy pereskia cacti, epiphytic cacti and the like grow well in aquatic culture.

Even if you chose a large enough pot when purchasing, over time the plant's roots may need more space. Replanting is necessary if the roots occupy almost the entire vessel, so that there is almost no space left for expanded clay.

It is recommended to choose a large enough inner container from the very beginning so that the plant does not have to be replanted too often. The same expanded clay can be used several times; it is enough to simply wash it properly.

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Soil is a common substrate for growing most indoor plants. Flower growers are well aware of the numerous soil problems that arise as a result of improper plant care, which can cause disease and even death of flowers.

White plaque and mold on the soil of indoor plants

Often you can see a white or yellowish coating on the surface of the soil in a flower pot. Many do not attach importance to this, and completely in vain. The appearance of plaque indicates the presence of a fungal disease or mold. Such plaque not only spoils the appearance of the plant, but can also lead to rotting of the plant’s roots.

White plaque and mold on the soil of indoor plants: photo

Causes of mold:

• violation of the watering regime, excessive watering of the plant;
• violation of the plant's conditions (poorly ventilated room, insufficient lighting, high air humidity);
• incorrectly selected container for growing the plant (too much soil, which disrupts the natural processes of moisture evaporation).

It is known that mold can grow in any environment. However, room temperature with high air humidity is favorable for its development.

To prevent the development of mold, it is necessary to ventilate the room more often, keep it clean and periodically disinfect the surfaces of window sills and shelves where they are located.

Equipment for plant care and other things.

The following solution is suitable for disinfection: 5 g of 0.5% copper sulfate solution per 1 liter of water. If you add an available insecticide to such a solution, you will also be able to avoid the appearance of some insect pests.

As you know, any disease is easier to prevent, so it is recommended to follow simple Soil mold prevention measures:

• It is better to water the flowers as needed, giving the earthen clod the opportunity to dry out slightly.
• For watering, it is recommended to use settled water (water from an aquarium is excellent).
• The soil of the plant must be loosened regularly to ensure access of oxygen to the roots of the plant and effective drying of the deep layers of the soil.
• You should take a responsible approach to choosing a container for growing a plant. A “growing” pot is not suitable; it is better to gradually increase the diameter of the pot as the plant grows. Pots with holes in the bottom are preferred. This way, excess liquid will not linger in the pot and cause mold to form.
• When preparing the soil for planting, it is recommended to add a small amount of crushed charcoal or activated carbon and ash. This will not only ensure looseness of the soil, but also promote its disinfection.

Sometimes a white coating on the surface of the soil can be caused by excessively hard water for irrigation. Citric acid diluted in a ratio of 1 tsp will help soften such water. per liter of water. Various fungicides will help in the fight against mold. In critical cases, an emergency plant transplant is necessary to remove part of the root system affected by mold.

Pests in the soil of indoor plants

Mold affecting the soil of indoor plants is not the only problem that worries gardeners. Often when growing flowers you can encounter insect pests. Some of them affect the soil, harming the root system of the plant.

The appearance of pests can be caused by poor-quality soil or improper care of the plant. Special industrial preparations, as well as folk remedies, such as soap solution or manganese solution, will help in the fight against insects.

• Woodlice. They appear due to excess moisture in the soil. They are dangerous because they harm the roots of the plant by eating them. When they appear, watering should be reduced. Insects can be removed manually.
• White bugs (fools) in the soil of indoor plants. Appear due to increased humidity of the ground or air. The way to deal with them is to let the top layer of soil dry out, after which they will disappear. You can also fight with chemicals: solution of potassium permanganate, arrows Doctor, Aktara.
• Nematodes. Microscopic worms that settle on plant roots. Their appearance is also facilitated by excess moisture in the soil. To combat these dangerous pests, you can use anthelmintic drugs such as Decaris. It is better to destroy a heavily affected plant to avoid infecting other plants.
• Bulb root mite. They cause damage primarily to bulbous plants. Appear due to high humidity. Preventative measures: good drainage, moderate watering. Roots and bulbs affected by mites are treated with an available systemic insecticide, for example Actellik, Aktara.

Why do you need a soil moisture sensor for indoor plants?

Soil moisture indicator for indoor flowers To determine soil moisture, it is recommended to use moisture indicators. Using this device will help avoid problems associated with excessive watering. Simply introduce the indicator into the soil and determine whether the plant needs watering.

The use of such devices is especially important for large deep pots, where determining the moisture state of the lower layers is very problematic.

Description of growing indoor flowers without soil

For more than 100 years, there has been a method of growing indoor plants that avoids soil-related problems. This is about hydroponics, i.e. growing plants without soil using substrates that replace soil (expanded clay, vermiculite, moss, peat, coarse sand, coconut fiber and others) or without them (this method is also called - aeroponics).

Hydroponics: technology for growing indoor flowers without soil With this growing method, plants obtain the necessary nutrients from aqueous solutions. The most common recipe for such a solution is considered to be the solution of the German scientist, one of the founders of hydroponics, F. Knopp. For hydroponic growing of plants at home, you can purchase ready-made hydroponic nutrient solutions.

Growing plants hydroponically is possible if several conditions are met:

• free access of air to the root system of the plant;
• sufficient air humidity where the plant roots are located;
• contact of plant roots with a nutrient solution.

According to the method of supplying the nutrient solution to the roots of the plant, the following can be distinguished: methods of hydroponic growing of plants:

• one-time filling of a container with a plant with a nutrient solution, immersing 2/3 of the root system in the solution;
• traditional periodic watering of the plant with a solution from above;
• adding solution to the pot tray.

For hydroponic growing of plants at home, it is recommended to purchase special containers or use pots of different sizes.

What indoor plants can be grown without soil?

Those who are learning the basics of hydroponic cultivation are recommended to start with plants such as anthurium, aspidistra, vriesia, begonia, cactus, dieffenbachia, ficus, monstera, nephrolepis, schefflera, and tradescantia.

In general, this method can be used to grow absolutely any plant. In general, hydroponic growing of plants is a fairly simple process that will help avoid soil-related problems.

Watch also a video on how to create a hydroponic system at home with your own hands:

Hydroponics, in one word, is the growing of indoor plants without soil on nutritious artificial media that contain all the elements for nutrition in an easily digestible form in the required concentrations and ratios.

Hydroponic growing is based on several principles that provide favorable conditions for root nutrition and plant development.

• 24-hour provision of air access to the root system.

• Creating normal conditions for roots to moisturize. They have a large suction area and a delicate cover, so they should not be allowed to dry out; they may die.

• Establishing the simplest contact of the root system with a nutrient medium that ensures the best absorption of water and mineral salts dissolved in it.

Hydroponics depending on the nutrient medium, it is divided into substrate culture (houseplants are grown on solid soil substitutes - substrates that are moistened with a nutrient solution) and aeroponics(aerial culture).

When growing plants in a substrate, inert soil substitutes are used: vermiculite, gravel, perlite, expanded clay, sand.

Such substitutes are easy to disinfect, do not enter into chemical reactions with mineral salts in water, and provide excellent air access to the roots.

In home floriculture, hydroponics is practiced by gardeners in several ways to supply nutrient solutions to the root system of plants.

• Moisten the substrate using regular watering.

• One-time filling of the dishes with a nutrient solution, into which the roots penetrate through the substrate and the air layer. As a result, most of the roots are located in a humidified air zone, which provides good air nutrition.

• Feeding watering with a nutrient solution through a tray. They are best suited as a substrate for growing indoor plants using hydroponics. vermiculite, expanded clay And peat, they are moisture-absorbing, sterile and air- and water-permeable.

Video - how to assemble hydroponics

Moss and sand can be used only if the above-described substrates are not available. When growing ornamental annual and biennial flowering plants, it is more advisable to use the hydroponics method.

You can prepare a nutrient solution yourself by dissolving in the required volume of water certain proportions of chemical salts that contain phosphorus, nitrogen, magnesium, potassium, calcium, iron, boron etc.

Each salt is dissolved in a separate container and only then mixed.

Video - the cheapest DIY hydroponics