Which flashlight to choose for night fishing?
Hundreds of options, thousands of opinions, millions of results.
The correct answer is none. Night fishing uses natural light - light reflected from the moon, followed by its reflection from the water. And if there is no moon, we turn on all our feelings, activates hidden reserves human body.
Well, if you don’t know how, then you still have to choose a lantern.
We won't talk about the fact that the flashlight should have a number of characteristics for protection against dirt, dust, water, that it should be comfortable and blah blah.
How fish perceive objects
How a fish sees
For the most part, fish see well only at a close distance - from 1 to 1.5 m, beyond 10-12 m they cannot see anything at all. To detect light, fish have rod-shaped and cone-shaped visual cells on the retina. In diurnal fish, cones predominate, they are less sensitive to light, but allow you to distinguish color. Nocturnal fish are dominated by rods that function in low light. Moreover, the difference in the number of rods and cones in diurnal and nocturnal fish can be quite significant ~ 20 times.
In the light, the state of the retina changes: the cones move towards the light, at dusk the rods move towards the light.
All that the fish sees is the light reflected from the object, i.e. a flat image is formed on the retina of the fish eye, which is perceived and recognized by the visual zone of the brain.
Thus, the fish is quite able to recognize objects both under water and on the surface of the water and out of the water.
Everything else - the angle of vision, the side eye and even the blind zone is no longer interesting and it makes no sense to consider them.
Perception of objects
The fish sees light reflected from objects, forming a flat image - this is how it perceives objects. Accordingly, the more intense the light reflected from the object, and taking into account yellow-orange cornea, which increases the contrast of objects, the easier it is for the fish to distinguish it from the general background. The main feature of any fish is the instant fixation of any movement - moving objects, much smallerregarding its size, in the water column - are perceived as food, objects larger than itself cause a protective reaction.
Thus, any movement, exactly, a change in the nature of the illumination, is a signal for action for any fish - to defend themselves, straying into a flock, or to attack, freeze, remaining motionless, until they are ready to jerk.
All of the above facts were observed by many fishermen in real conditions and on real examples:
- the catfish is passive during the day, but active at night, at a time when the carp eats with great pleasure in the daytime
- approaching a school of gobies by land, there is almost always an instant reaction, and the fish leave in the other direction, relative to your movement
- the pike, until the moment of the throw, stands motionless in the thickets of grass, completely merging with it
Color perception
The fact that the fish is able to distinguish color or even its shades is proven.
And then there is an endless debate about what color scares the fish?
A light stream directed into the water creates a huge moving object in the water column, which scares the fish. Therefore, no matter what flashlight or what lens we use to illuminate the float, rod or ourselves, the fish will react the same way - to defend itself.
How to be?
In fact, one of the above statements is not true! More precisely, it is necessary to consider and suffer from the question of the choice of color and its perception by fish from a completely different angle.
Fish on the drum on the color! Fish are attracted or repelled primarily by the size of the object. Once again, the fish sees a flat image of an object formed by reflected light.
So let's go back to the beginning - we turn on all our senses, activates the hidden reserves of the human body, and see in the dark.
Can't you? Then let's turn to physics.
Spectrum of light rays in nm (nanometers)
Penetration of light into water, depending on the wavelength
Taking into account the various parametric indicators of water, we get a simple and easy-to-understand answer at the output.
The best solution for illuminating the necessary items when fishing at night is to use flashlights with a red lens and reduced light output.
It is red light, namely the use of all lenses available on the market today that convert white or yellow, etc. a color of red is the best solution to minimize the risk of the fish recognizing an object that can be interpreted as a threat.
By the way, the play of light and color, in terms of reflection / absorption of light by objects in the water column, depending on the characteristics of the water itself, the intensity of the light flux and its refraction, are equally important indicators when choosing the color of bait and gear, which is proved not only the above brief theoretical part, but also confirmed by many anglers who have conducted practical research on this topic.
A great option for a flashlight for night fishing - Fenix HP-40H 
Fenix HP-40H headlamp a Chinese manufacturer, Fenix, which fundamentally changes the perception of the vast majority of ordinary people about Chinese products as a semi-basement low-quality product.
Fenix, today, is one of the leaders in the Chinese market in the production of high-quality and technically modern flashlights for various purposes, presented in a wide range (all the details can be found on the website of the official representative of the company in the appropriate section).
Specifications Fenix HP-40H
Fenix HP-40H flashlight review
Equipment:
- Flashlight
- External battery pack
- Batteries - 4 pcs.
- Head mounting system (transverse and longitudinal elastic straps)
— Accessories-clamp of the power cable — 2 pcs.
— Warranty card
- User's Manual
Warranty: The official manufacturer's warranty for the Fenix HP40H is provided for 5 years from the date of purchase.
We open the package
The head straps are attached to the battery box and the flashlight using integrated open fittings.
All straps are easily adjusted to the size of the head, by means of double-slot buckles, fixing the strap well in the desired position.
The battery pack and flashlight are connected by a thick, weather-resistant insulated cable.
The cable is attached to the strap, for convenience, through special clamps.
(the latches have the properties to walk freely along the strap if the flashlight is not fixed on the head)
The battery pack is presented as a separate box, ~75x68x23mm in size, IPX6 standard (Protection against sea waves or strong water jets. Water that has got inside the case should not interfere with the operation of the device)
IPX6 - Large splashes and rain - During testing, the object is exposed to water from all angles, issued through 12.5 mm. nozzles at a volume of 100 liters/minute at a pressure of 100 kN/square meter from a distance of 3 meters. The device must not: stop working; have poor water penetration.
The inner part of the block enters through the grooves into the outer casing and is rigidly connected by tightening through a metal threaded connection. At the junction of the two parts, the use of waterproof gaskets is not critical, since the outer part-cover of the indoor unit is made of a porous conditionally "soft" polymer, which by itself closes "possible" gaps well.
External battery pack
The battery pack is divided into two parts - the outer case, made of aluminum and high-strength plastic, and the inner one, for installing batteries - 4pcs AA
From the manufacturer's website fenix-russia.ru
Flashlight Fenix HP40H is equipped with 2 LEDs: red Cree XP-E2 with brightness up to 150 lumens and white Cree XP-G2 (R5) with brightness up to 450 lumens. Both semiconductor devices are very durable and are able to work for 50,000 hours. Although the red light is less bright, its beam is better focused, which allows you to illuminate an area with a radius of 105 m. The white LED, in contrast, gives a wide side illumination, creating comfortable conditions for tourists who are forced to walk in the dark along forest paths, as well as speleologists, cyclists and other potential users of this lighting device.
Each of the diodes is controlled separately. Red can work in 3 brightness modes and is used in situations where it is important to preserve a person's night vision or not to frighten animals. Data on the flashlight operating time are given taking into account its testing first with alkaline batteries, and then with Ni-MH batteries.
The white light diode works in 4 brightness modes, as well as the SOS signal mode. Data on its work is also presented taking into account information on testing batteries of various types.
The direction of the luminous flux in the Fenix HP40H lamp is easily adjusted due to the rotary mechanism in the head of the lighting device. It can be rotated vertically by 60°.
The battery pack of the Fenix HP40H is external. To more evenly distribute the weight of the device on the head, it can be attached to the elastic straps on the back of the head. The battery compartment, as well as the head of the flashlight, is well protected from moisture and withstands the effects of any atmospheric precipitation. The body of the Fenix HP40H is made of aluminum and high-strength plastic.
From the manufacturer's website fenix-russia.ru
The operation of the flashlight is controlled by 2 separate buttons on the upper surface of the head of the device. Pressing each of them for 0.5 s allows you to turn on / off the white or red LEDs, respectively. Short presses sequentially switch the brightness levels available for each diode. In addition, holding down the button that controls the white diode for 3 seconds activates the SOS signal mode.
The body of the flashlight has an IPX6 protection similar to the battery pack and is made of aluminum alloy with durable plastic elements.
The system of protection against accidental switching on of the flashlight during transportation is made by partially overlapping both power buttons.
Hull head tilt up to 60°
Total
The flashlight makes a pleasant first impression, both in terms of design, functionality and technological equipment and ease of use.
Article about how in a simple way organize highlighting of the bait during night, winter fishing at depth.
A lot of devices and underwater "light bulbs" were offered. The essence of the method is to lure the fish. It is based on the natural "love" of the underwater inhabitant and his curiosity for the source of light located at the bottom and inviting under the darkness of ice. Particularly affected by underwater "lanterns" is the night bream, which is distinguished by both caution and curiosity at the same time.
The meaning of “highlighting” is to lower a burning light bulb to the bottom through the hole, which should lure the fish from afar to the baited place and, accordingly, to the mormyshka. Coming into the world, the same bream will inevitably bite.
The most, as it were, optimal, or something, seemed to us to be a “adapt” from a light bulb or LED with a battery and a sealed test tube. Of course, this is true in those ancient times, when there was tension in the country with Chinese or just small lanterns.
But we, in the absence of a test tube, and the unwillingness to search for it, did a little "fun" with a little led flashlight, fortunately, that China put them on our market a lot and different. The first is to achieve tightness. Make it easy.
The easiest way is to wrap the flashlight with several layers of "sausage" film. Well, that one, you know - thin polyethylene, in which sausage or cheese they pack in stores. It sticks well and does not let water in.
A little more difficult was to seal the unscrewing parts with the appropriate sealant. Next, we tie the “light bulb” to the fishing line, weight it if necessary, and now the flashlight is ready to “dive” into the hole. At a depth of up to 5m, if you bend down to the hole, you can even “steer” the light in the right direction, i.e. on a mormyshka
The only inconvenience for the ice fisherman is the presence in the hole of both the line from the flashlight and the line of the rod. Therefore, in order to avoid "hooks" when fighting, we drill a couple of holes - in one we catch, in the other we "drown" the lantern. Cheap and easy. You can even drill three holes, of which two will be “working”, and one will illuminate.
15.10.2015EVERYTHING YOU WANTED TO ASK ABOUT THE UNDERWATER VIDEO CAMERA BUT DID NOT KNOW WHO
WHAT IS THIS?
Well, in a nutshell, this is a small lens on a cord and a monitor to which a video signal is fed from the lens through a cord. You see everything that happens underwater in real time, just like on TV.
HOW FAR CAN YOU SEE?
It all depends on many factors. The most important thing is the transparency of the water. In addition, the depth, illumination (whether the sun is shining), whether there is a lot of snow on the ice is important. If the water is clear, the depth is not very large and it is light outside, then you can see everything quite far away. For example, in winter at the Ruza reservoir, at a depth of 4 meters, the camera could see what was at a distance of five meters from the camera. And it happens that the water is so muddy that even at a depth of two meters you can see no further than half a meter from the camera.
And here another important question arises: what kind of backlight is your camera equipped with. The fact is that underwater cameras are usually equipped with a backlight so that you can see the underwater world even at night or at great depths, where there is not much light. Thanks to this backlight, even at great depths, in complete darkness and in muddy water, you can see at least what is happening in your hole or under the boat.
DOES THE LIGHTING SCARE THE FISH?
This is an important question. The fact is that the backlight is different: infrared and LED. Infrared is practically invisible to the human eye, on the camera it is a small diode glowing red. It does not scare away fish, and even attracts some fish, such as perch, ruff, pike perch. True, in low light and infrared illumination on, the picture on the screen will be black and white.
A LED lights This is a flashlight that shines with white light. Of course, with such a flashlight you can see a little further than with infrared, and the picture will be colored, but such illumination does not attract fish.
The number of infrared illumination diodes also affects the illumination range, the more, the better. But here, too, there are downsides. If there is a lot of suspension in the water, then with infrared illumination it glares strongly. It's like a high beam in a snowfall.
CAN THE LIGHT BE TURNED OFF?
It all depends on the camera model. There are those where the camera is equipped with an LED, and if there is little light, then the backlight turns on automatically. There are cameras where the backlight is on all the time. And there are those where the backlight can be turned on and off independently. In principle, this is, of course, an important factor, but only if there is a lot of suspension in the reservoir where you plan to use the camera. Then without backlight it will be seen much better. In extreme cases, if the backlight does not turn off, the diodes can be smeared with something. Ordinary plasticine, for example.
HOW TO UNDERSTAND WHICH WAY THE CAMERA IS LOOKING?
This is really the problem. I lowered the camera under the water, you see the fish on the screen, but where is it? Which side of you? If there are no obvious landmarks under water that are visible on the surface, it is not so easy to understand where the fish actually are. You have to drill, for example, another one or two holes.
Again, it all depends on the camera model. There are devices that have a recording function, but they are, of course, significantly more expensive. It's up to you to decide if you need this feature. Of course, it is interesting to show your friends what you saw under water there, and be surprised again, but this is already a question of your financial capabilities.
IS IT POSSIBLE TO USE THE CAMERA IN FROST?
Of course you can. Manufacturers, as a rule, guarantee the operation of the camera at temperatures down to minus ten degrees, but I used it in minus thirty. I just keep the device in my inner pocket. I need to see what's in the hole, - he took out the device, lowered the camera into the hole. I looked - wound the cable and put the device back in a warm pocket. But if you want to catch and watch how the fish swim up to your bait, and it's minus twenty-five outside, then of course, the device will not last long. The monitor is liquid crystal, and they do not work for a long time in severe frost. They don't break at all, of course, they just freeze.
IS IT POSSIBLE TO CATCH
AND SEE WHAT IS HAPPENING UNDER WATER?
Why not? Lower the camera to the bottom, put the monitor in front of you and watch the fish attack your bait. It's funny, of course, although the most interesting moment of fishing - the surprise factor - is lost in the process. You see what kind of fish you bite and what size. But from the point of view of understanding the process, it is very useful to observe.
For more than three years of dense use of the camera, I have not seen anything in it! And huge shoals of bream with pike perches, and carp trying to eat this very camera, and shoals of roach ignoring my bait, and pike attacks, and handsome graylings, and a cluster of trout huddled in a bunch in the corner of the reservoir. You can't remember everything. I am now without a camera, as without hands. Already you feel on the pond somehow not so.
IS IT POSSIBLE TO USE IT IN THE SUMMER?
It is possible, although it is not as convenient as in winter from ice. If from the shore, then I simply tie the camera to the fishing rod and lower it on the cord into the water. From a boat, it is sometimes also interesting to see what is happening under you. Attached, for example, to a snag and catch pike perch. Then, for the sake of interest, you lower the camera under the boat, and there is a huge school of carp.
How deep you can lower the camera, it all depends on the model. Manufacturers can equip the same camera with cords of different lengths. As a rule, it is 10-15-20 meters. For most of our reservoirs, ten meters would be enough, but 15 meters are optimal. By the way, the longer the cord, the more expensive the camera itself.
WHERE ARE THEY MADE AND DO THEY BREAK FREQUENTLY?
All electronics are now made, as a rule, in China, and all underwater cameras on our market are no exception. But the development is originally American. Of course, like any electronics, the camera can break, but I still have my very first camera, which I bought more than three years ago. From the experience of others, I know that sometimes either the camera itself fails, or the cord stops contacting due to twisting or crease. Manufacturers are aware of this problem, and in Lately the cords of many cameras have become thicker and stronger. But again, there are no complaints about some models at all, and some, to put it mildly, are not praised at all.
But the fact that underwater cameras, as they say, went to the people and they can already be seen very often among fishermen on various water bodies is a fact.
One thing I can say for sure: fishing with a camera has become much more interesting for me personally. True, now I admire the underwater world more often than I fish, but this does not bother me much.
What time of day do we usually fish? Statistics carried out on hastily, shows: the majority of amateurs arrange their fishing events around the world, that is, during the day, or at dusk, at dawn. But only a few are fond of purely night fishing.
Why? Everything is explained simply. When there is impenetrable darkness and ominous silence all around, and the reservoir from a picturesque lake has turned into a bottomless abyss, few people want to leave the warm fire in the cool of the night and fiddle with gear, even if by the light of a flashlight. Especially - after the "traditional" evening libations.
Night fishing and its meaning
However, all this is in vain, because at night the fisherman has a chance not only to enjoy the fight with a particularly large trophy, but also to fairly fill the cage with tails. Why - I will try to explain in detail.
Did you know that after sunset, the most inveterate robbers of the underwater world go out onto the main road? That it is in pitch darkness that giants from among the peaceful fish - paranoidly suspicious during the day - become so self-confident that they come close to the shore? That some underwater inhabitants knew the night so closely and absorbed its essence that they walk and feed only in the dark?
And while the fisherman sleeps in a tent, the unimaginable is happening on the other side of the water's edge. There is the very denouement, the very culmination of the underwater action. Why not take advantage of this blessed time?
Of course, night fishing is more difficult and more extreme than daytime fishing. Here you can no longer relax, here you have to make more efforts and concentrate your attention more clearly, and this is often with discomfort from night conditions. But be that as it may, the game is worth the candle. And all that a fisherman needs to do to make the night successful is to learn its secrets, but first of all, to properly prepare for it.
Fish that are caught at night
Just as there are “larks” and “owls” among people, so among the representatives of the freshwater ichthyofauna there are “adherents of the day” and “night owls”. The second is quite a lot. Why do they choose the night? There are several reasons for this:
- Many diurnal fish are prey for predators. In the dark, they are easier to catch, which encourages hunters to stick to a night regimen.
- On the other hand, there are predatory fish that are mainly active during daylight hours. This forces some of their potential prey to hide during the day and come out to feed at night.
- The older the fish, the more experienced it is, and therefore the more cautious and suspicious. Night is the best time for her. As mentioned above, large individuals of many fish prefer to lead purely night image life.
- On summer days, many reservoirs are noisy: people swim and fish, jet skis and boats rush back and forth. Underwater fauna at this time prefers to sit in shelters. At night, the long-awaited silence sets in, and the fish come out to feed.
- The weather, or rather, the summer heat, also affects the regime of the ichthyofauna. It forces the fish to fall into a stupor during the day - when the water temperature reaches its maximum values. At night, the water cools down, the conditions become more favorable and the fish are active.
Chub
The only drawback of the tent is the inability to visually and tactilely control gear. Therefore, its use is justified only in the case when night fishing is carried out on donks with sound alarms.
Bonfire
If during night fishing it is not supposed to change the place of fishing, then making a fire next to it will make the process more comfortable. The only thing that is needed in this case is to correctly position the fire pit.
The best place for him is on the side and slightly behind the fisherman. Such that it was possible to warm up and periodically monitor out of the corner of the eye. The “power” of the fire is selected as necessary, the minimum, because if it blazes “in a pioneering way”, it will not only unnecessarily illuminate a good part of the fishing area and scare away some fish, but it can also damage the tackle, especially the fishing line, if we are fishing with a float rod or a boat. Nevertheless, even with a moderate fire, there should be a small space between the seat and the water's edge - enough to be able to get up, take a step or two and, with complete safety for the fishing line, recast the tackle, or take the fish out.
Lighting
At first glance, it seems that everything is simple with lighting - a lantern is more powerful, and preferably with a suspension function. But in fact, the light for night fishing will not work anyhow. It must meet two requirements:
- Be strong enough - so that the fisherman with him could manipulate the bait without straining his eyesight.
- Be moderate enough - so as not to illuminate the fishing area, so as not to create unnecessary glare near it.
Mutually exclusive points, right? It is between them that you need to find a golden mean.
The best option is two lanterns. One is a low-power headlamp (for example, with five LEDs), the second is a long-range manual. The first one is enough for the eyes to replant, and everything else - it will not scare the fish once again, because it simply will not reach it. The second is needed just in case, if you suddenly have to look - what is happening on the distant approaches to the fishing point.
It makes no sense to constantly sit with the light, because: firstly, all night gear is equipped with a bite alarm in the absence of lighting, and secondly, it harms the fisherman's disguise. Therefore, the forehead should be turned on only as needed - for a short period of time.
Tackle for night fishing
Theoretically, at night you can fish with any daytime gear, but in practice, with some of them, this task is greatly complicated. To facilitate its solution, various tricks and technical devices are used, aimed mainly at ensuring proper bite signaling. Perhaps they should be considered first.
"Fireflies"
This is the name of the rigging elements that emit light. They are attached to floats, rod tips and bells - both temporarily and "permanently", can be chemical, electronic or phosphorescent.
Chemical fireflies
Photo 4. Chemical fireflies in a bag, completely ready for use.
The first category is small plastic capsules produced by the fishing industry, containing a solution of oxalic acid ester and an ampoule of hydrogen peroxide. When light is needed, the capsule bends, the ampoule cracks, the substances mix and react, as a result of which hordes of photons are emitted. Pundits call this phenomenon "chemiluminescence."
Photo 5. Glow is the result of a chemical reaction.
Such a thing shines for about 12-15 hours, which is enough for the eyes for the whole summer night. Her weight is small, so it does not affect the sensitivity of the float much.
Electronic fireflies
Our electronic fireflies are for the most part handicraft, although the overseas industry produces them in very considerable quantities. They consist of a low-power LED and a pair of small batteries. The easiest way to make one is from a lighter with a flashlight. Also, it is quite possible to make a float with this filling, for example, from a cocktail tube or cotton candy.
Photo 6. LED float for night fishing (industrial production).
Such devices shine until the batteries run out. But for one night they are definitely enough - tested in practice. Unfortunately, due to the mass of batteries, the sensitivity of the float suffers greatly, and the process of loading it becomes more complicated.
"Fireflies" from a phosphorescent nipple
Photo 7. Phosphorescent nipple.
Photo 8. He, shining in pitch darkness after charging with a flash.
Such “fireflies” are made from scraps of a “light-accumulative” nipple, which periodically happens in fishing shops. It is enough to put them on the float antenna. they shine quite badly.
Photo 9. Goose float adapted for night fishing. On the right end is a firefly from a nipple.
Photo 10. But what happens if you dim the light.
Such a firefly is very good, but nevertheless it has one drawback. The nipple must be periodically recharged with a light source, for example, a flashlight. The brighter this source, the better. The time between recharges depends on the quality of the nipple. We came across those that glowed distinctly for almost an hour, and those that needed to be recharged every 15-20 minutes. However, of all fireflies for night fishing, nipple fireflies are the lightest. Accordingly, the floats equipped with them have maximum sensitivity.
Donka
This tool is best suited for night fishing- even in full day mode. Its mandatory attribute - a bell - will provide the fisherman with the necessary bite signaling. Some enthusiasts supplement it with a firefly, which, in my opinion, is superfluous, although it doesn’t matter to anyone. For me, it’s better to put a dozen of the simplest ones.
If fishing is carried out exclusively on bottoms, the fisherman may well relax by drinking tea by the fire, or while away the time in a tent listening to the radio. A suddenly ringing bell will inform him of a bite, and while the catcher approaches the tackle, the fish will have time to be detected.
float rod
Night fishing on a “float” is impossible without a float equipped with a firefly. Practice has shown that the best fit here homemade options, because the store ones do not have sufficient sensitivity.
Relaxing with float night fishing will not work, as you constantly have to monitor the float. And if during the day you don’t need to strain your eyes much, then at night it’s the other way around. The fact that by morning the fisherman's eyes will be "in a bunch" is a fact, this should be taken into account immediately when going to float night fishing.
But on the other hand, unlike the donkey, only the “floater” allows you to fish especially fastidious fish.
ship
One of those night tackles that do not need a bite signaling device (and purely riverine to everything else). All bites on the boat are recorded tactilely - by a sudden “jerk from the hands” or by strange changes in the tension of the rail. You can also detect a bite by the sound of a splash in the area of \u200b\u200bthe leashes (an experienced catcher by ear distinguishes such a sound from the usual fish “splash”). In general, it would be useful to periodically drive the boat to the fishing point and check the leashes with a second (long-range) lantern.
In Soviet times, the industry produced large inertial coils equipped with a ratchet, from which there was no sense as a friction clutch, but which could be successfully used as a bite signaling device for a boat. Fortunately, the usual size of the gear float planes (about 40 by 20 cm) created a tension that was barely enough to overpower the tongue. And the ratchet completely held the boat, while it simply loitered in the current. But, as soon as the fish pecked, the ratchet from the jerk worked, and with a squeal (whoever heard it, he knew) blew the line.
Spinning
The most difficult tackle in night fishing. And no tricks can facilitate its use, except perhaps a night vision device. However, if the fisherman has straight arms, he will quickly get the hang of throwing baits “blindly” and achieve quite tolerable results in night spinning.
By the way, about baits. The best of them for nighttime conditions (at least at first) are considered to be surface ones - wobblers, poppers, etc. However, if the bottom at the place of fishing is sandy or clay - without snags and accumulations of stones, then it is quite possible to “tap” it and jig heads, as well as wield baubles-non-hooks.
conclusions
The only conclusion that can be drawn from all of the above is that midnight fishing is not so difficult as to be neglected. And if you also “fill your hand” - grandiose prospects open up for the fisherman. But the main highlight of night fishing is not this. And in that romance that happens after sunset - on the banks of a river or lake, by a fire, and - under a breathtaking starry sky, in complete, absolutely cosmic silence.