In order for your fireplace to function in the desired mode and fully influence the formation of optimal temperature and humidity indicators, you should follow the recommendations given by the consultants of the Remix online store.

1. Kindling the hearth. Before igniting the fireplace, fully open all dampers and check that there is no backdraft. Let's make a reservation, reverse thrust - the flow of air into the room from the hearth. Clean all channels and the grate from the presence of solid combustion products. An air blockage may form in a cold chimney, it is removed in a simple way by laying down the paper and setting it on fire. It is forbidden to use flammable substances dangerous in this respect (gasoline, kerosene, etc.) to light the fireplace.
2. FUEL for the fireplace. Typically, traditional firewood is used to fire the fireplace, preferably hardwood. Soft wood can cause smoke in a heated room, and coniferous firewood “shoots” with dangerous sparks. Logs should be dried before using wood fuel, damp firewood accumulates, emits insufficient heat and affects the formation of condensate. Too dry firewood does not heat the home properly, as it burns out too quickly, not having time to give off heat.
3. Fireplace DRIVE. The draft is responsible for supplying the air necessary for the process of burning wood in the firebox of the appliance. Among other things, the draft ensures the return of combustion products to the chimney system. The burning rate of firewood is controlled using a device such as an air intake lever (it can be replaced by a sliding damper). The power of burning wood directly depends on the natural draft created in the unit, as well as on the very structure of the heating device. The color of the flame can tell about the strength of the thrust. So, a white tint indicates an excess of traction, dark red - its lack. All these shortcomings can be corrected by special devices, which include a heat-resistant fan installed at the mouth of the smoke channel. A turbovent or a smoke exhauster can become a replacement for it. When using a fireplace or any other hearth, there may be an insufficient supply of oxygen. The reason for this may be, for example, obstruction of the chimney, lack of supply air, or prematurely closed damper. Since the result of such a phenomenon may be the flow of carbon monoxide into living quarters, you need to be extremely careful about the operation of the fireplace.
4. OPERATION of the hearth. During the second loading of fuel, proceed as follows. To begin, open the door slightly, opening the slide gate at the same time. Quickly and carefully place two - maximum three logs, trying not to cause smoke in the room at home. Do not stack firewood too tightly, as the air needed for combustion simply will not flow to the fuel and the wood will go out, causing flue gases to enter the dwelling. We also make a reservation that firewood should occupy approximately one third of the fuel chamber. Experts advise avoiding long-term operation of the hearth, especially in intensive mode. Find out about the optimal time period in which the hearth should be used, it is best to check directly with the trading establishment when buying. As a rule, the elements of the firebox can become very hot from the high temperatures that are formed as a result of the firebox of the hearth. Make sure that the regulation of wood combustion is not difficult, using special devices for this.
5. VENTILATION is another phenomenon that occurs in a room with a fireplace installed in it. No wonder earlier the hearth was installed in smoking rooms. It should be noted that for air supply, even in the case of fuel combustion, air intake grilles are installed, the functioning of which should be checked before the fireplace insert. Special services prohibit the removal of volatile combustion products into the ventilation ducts, and the grilles themselves are not installed on the smoke ducts. The fireplace should not be placed where air currents meet, as this can cause drafts.

decorative side

The FACING of the heating structure is called the portal. For its implementation, various materials and technologies are used. So, to decorate the front side, decorative rocks(granite, marble, sandstone, limestone, onyx, etc.). Also, artificial stone, glass, metals, alloys and even specially processed wood are used as materials.

If you are using a closed type fireplace, you need to take care of the cleanliness of the glass firebox door in a timely manner. It will always be clean if you exclude synthetic materials, softwoods and poorly dried firewood from using as fuel. In modern units, a “clean glass” system is provided, which forms a supply of hot air along the door that burns flue gases. But even in this case, the fuel chamber should be cleaned about once a year.

CLEANING of the fireplace - removal of ashes and ashes. Timely cleaning of the fireplace affects its full functioning and sufficient marks.

Fire safety

In this section, we provide rules fire safety, noted in the "Rules for the production of pipe and furnace works", All-Russian Volunteer Fire Society, 2006

Section 5.6. Safety requirements for the operation of fireplaces.

5.6.1. During the operation of fireplaces, the requirements of the manufacturer's instructions and the Fire Safety Rules must be observed.

5.6.2. Before ignition of fireplaces it is necessary to be convinced of presence of draft in smoke channels (pipes). To do this, a strip of thin paper must be brought to the ajar door of the fireplace or to the portal opening. Its deviation towards the furnace indicates the presence of traction.

5.6.4. It is necessary to clean the ash box in a timely manner. An overfilled duct can cause back draft with the release of combustion products into the room.

5.6.5. In rooms where fireplaces are installed, it is allowed to store firewood in an amount not exceeding the daily requirement.

5.6.6. Cleaning of chimneys from soot deposits should be carried out before the start of the heating season, and also at least once every three months during the heating season.

5.6.7. Premises in which fireplaces are installed must be equipped with manual powder or carbon dioxide fire extinguishers with a capacity of at least 2 liters.

5.6.8. Before the start of the heating season, it is necessary to check the technical condition of fireplaces and chimneys in order to identify the presence of draft, the tightness of the joints and the serviceability of the elements of fireplaces and chimneys.

5.6.9. When using fireplaces, it is prohibited:

A) use a type of fuel that is not intended for fireplaces;

B) use flammable and combustible liquids for kindling;

C) use firewood, the dimensions of which exceed the dimensions of the furnaces;

D) dry clothes and other materials and objects on the details of fireplaces;

E) place combustible objects closer than 1.5 m from the radiant surface of fireplaces;

E) fill the niche for storing firewood with easily combustible materials, as well as overfill it with firewood;

G) kindle fireplaces with broken or cracked glass;

H) overheating fireboxes by burning a large amount of firewood;

I) block the smoke channels when burning firewood;

K) remove not extinguished coals and ash;

L) to fill the fire in the fireboxes with water;

M) make changes to the design of fireplaces and use fireplaces for other purposes;

H) leave open fireplaces unattended and allow young children to operate fireplaces.

Causes of a fire

In order to avoid the occurrence of a fire that causes material damage, harm to health and danger to human life, all of the above rules must be observed. Let's add some causes of fire:

1. Direct influence of the flame, as well as the fallout of coals; cracks and leaks in the fireplace body.
2. Interaction of the overheated body of the device with flammable materials (wood, cardboard, paper, plywood, etc.). The fireplace is not installed in the wooden cuttings of the dwelling.
3. Use only the correct type of fuel. So, for example, coal is not burned in wood-burning fireplaces.
4. Fire of soot and soot in the chimney.
5. Cleaning soot by burning.
6. Faults in the smoke channels that are poorly visible to the eye, which lead to a violation of the tightness of the brickwork.
7. Overheating of the fireplace body, which is usually noted as a result of prolonged heating of the hearth.
8. Violation of construction and fire requirements during the installation of the chimney or its construction.
9. Inattentive attitude to fire, carelessness in the operation of the structure and the admission of children to the hearth.
10. Use of low quality foci.
11. Violation of the rules for the use and operation of heating appliances.

A cozy flame burning inside the fireplace insert can be used to ensure optimal home climate performance. But do not forget that with insufficient attention, a malfunction may occur and cause a dangerous fire in the house.

The experts of the online store "Remix" wish you that the warmth in the house is useful, and the fireplace causes only joy from its use.

Company Pechnik How to use the fireplace

How to use the fireplace

How to properly use a fireplace

Burning for the first time

The operation of a fireplace installed with a firebox must be preceded by drying, which, depending on the humidity, can sometimes take three to five weeks. The first kindling should be light, not very hot, with a small amount of firewood. After the first kindling, a pungent smell of burning and smoke can be felt: charring and burning out of paints and binders occurs. The smell disappears after several subsequent fires. Before kindling, all dampers of the fireplace must be open. Kindling the fireplace occurs gradually, with small firewood; it is not recommended to use alcohol, benzine, thinners and similar substances for this purpose, as this creates a risk of explosion or heat stroke due to a sharp rise in temperature, but special liquids for lighting firewood can be used.

What fuel to use?

Only permitted types of fuel must be burned in the furnace.

Dry wood =3200 kcal/kg

Wet wood = 1750 kcal/kg

Solid wood gives good heat and slow combustion. Oak, ash, birch, elm and beech are best suited for this.

Less dense wood of soft and coniferous species, on the contrary, gives more fire, but less coal and heat. This is the wood of pine, spruce, poplar and linden.

Heat of combustion of wood

A ton of dry wood gives the same calorific value as 0.4 tons of fuel oil.

The heat of combustion depends mainly on the moisture content of the wood. To turn the water contained in wood into steam, you need to spend 600 kcal per kilogram of water. That is why the heat of combustion of wood is inversely proportional to its moisture content.

The average percentage of wood moisture depending on the drying time

Prohibited fuels

Solid mineral fuel (coals and their derivatives);
Fireplace inserts are not designed to burn coal because of the danger of carbon monoxide being released and accumulated in the room, leading to severe health problems and even death.
Liquid mineral fuels: gasoline, fuel oil, solvents, used oils.
Alcohol
Wood impregnated with creosote.
Freshly cut and not dried wood.
Paper and cardboard.
Carpentry waste - shavings, sawdust.

Living fire in the hearth can be admired endlessly. It gives a person warmth, a feeling of comfort and safety. Despite the trends of the times and the emergence of new original heaters, the classic wood-burning fireplace is in no hurry to give up its positions. Since ancient times, it has been the central part of the interior - family coats of arms were hung over the fireplace, family heirlooms, antique clocks and various decorative ornaments were placed on its shelf. Without exaggeration, the survival of people in the harsh cold season depended on the functioning of such a focus.

Simple, at first glance, the procedure for kindling a fireplace actually contains the centuries-old experience of many generations. Let's try to briefly formulate the basic rules for a safe and efficient fire in a wood-burning fireplace, as well as the features of firewood for kindling.

What kind of wood is heated in the fireplace

Any wood can be burned in a fireplace, but it should be remembered that each species has its own individual properties.

When firewood is burned, about 85% of its mass literally “flies into the chimney” in the form of volatile gaseous substances, the remaining 15% remain in the furnace as coals and unburned ash. Compared to other fuels, wood produces a relatively small amount of combustion residues.

Firewood: the importance of humidity

When choosing wood suitable for firebox, its moisture content is of great importance. Fresh wood firewood contains up to 50% moisture. They give off heat approximately two times less than dry ones, and when burned, they emit steam (water), which settles in the chimney ducts in the form of condensate, reducing the life of the heating structure. It is clear that such a material does not light up very well, and during combustion it releases little heat. For example, one kilogram of freshly cut wood during combustion produces about 1863 kcal of heat. The same firewood after annual drying under a canopy has a calorific value of 3381 kcal.

In firewood dried for one or two years, the maximum moisture content is up to 15-20%. Such wood is considered already dry and suitable for kindling. After storage for 3 or more years, about 10-15% moisture can remain in the wood. This material burns best, emits the maximum amount of heat and does not form harmful substances during combustion.

The optimal time for harvesting firewood is November-December. After cutting the firewood, it is advisable to immediately chop it into logs 6-10 cm thick. It is necessary to store and dry firewood in a ventilated and protected from atmospheric precipitation place. For this purpose, it is undesirable to use basements, since firewood can not only not dry out, but also become moldy.

Methods for kindling a fireplace

Perhaps every owner of a fireplace can boast of his unique “secret” of exploiting a favorite hearth. This is due to the fact that a huge number of such heating structures differ in individual design features, sizes and other parameters. However, the basic principles of kindling are relatively unchanged and general. Here, for example, are two common ways to stack firewood to kindle a fireplace.

1. "Well". At the base, two thick logs are laid in parallel, between which kindling is laid out - paper, wood chips, bark. The distance between the logs should not exceed the length of the firewood. Then a row of 4-6 not very large logs is laid across the supporting logs. Firewood should not lie too tightly. Thus, several rows are laid out. The thickness of the logs can be increased with each new row. In the middle (3rd or 4th) layer, you need to lay out again several sheets of paper, bark, thin branches, or wood chips along with firewood. The size of the built "well" can reach 2/3 or 1/3 of the height of the fireplace insert. Firewood should not touch the walls of the firebox. The advantage of this laying method is the possibility of using firewood of any humidity. Nevertheless, it is desirable that the most dry firewood is located below.
2. "Upside down". The largest logs are stacked in a dense row at the bottom. It is important that there is no free space between them. The next layer, also tightly, is laid out with smaller firewood. The third layer consists of logs of even smaller thickness. In this way, you can lay out the required number of rows, gradually reducing the thickness of the firewood to the top. All rows are placed across (crosswise) to the previous one. At the very top of the structure, it is necessary to put finely chopped chips and plates of wood, bark, dry thin branches, etc. Spread the paper evenly on the formed stack, press it with a few chips and set it on fire. You can also use special kindling briquettes. This method of making a fire produces more heat than the standard one. The flame immediately heats up the chimney quickly, and optimal thermodynamic conditions for combustion are formed. Also, with this installation, very little smoke is emitted, and the fire burns much longer. In addition, after combustion there is little ash left. It is important that the firewood for kindling is as dry as possible. This method is only suitable for home fireplaces. In outdoor structures, it will not be effective.

Before igniting the masonry, you need to open the chimney damper (view). In the upper part of the firebox, before entering the chimney, it is necessary to light the paper rolled into a roll so that the warm air “squeezes out” the cold air from the channel. This procedure will provide good traction and eliminate smoke in the room. Then, in the presence of traction, a wood-burning bookmark is set on fire. After burning two-thirds of the firewood, you can close the damper halfway. A sluggish fire is “stirred” with a poker or fireplace tongs, changing the position of the logs in such a way that nothing prevents air from entering the hearth. The next portion of logs is usually laid after half of the masonry has burned through. When the combustion is completed and the fireplace cools down, the accumulated ash should be removed with a scoop and a broom or brush, leaving, however, a small amount of it. This will facilitate the next kindling, as the ash tends to reflect heat, directing it to the burning zone.

Safety first

Simple rules for using a fireplace allow you to make it not only a center of comfort in the interior of an apartment, but also a safety zone.

• For kindling, it is forbidden to use flammable liquids that are not intended for this - gasoline, alcohol, acetone, etc.
• In wood-burning fireplaces, it is forbidden to heat coal and other unforeseen types of fuel.
• Many modern fireplaces are equipped with special protective screens that prevent sparks and coals from flying out. If there is no such screen or it is planned to operate the fireplace with an open screen, all flammable objects (carpets, furniture) must be moved to the maximum distance.
• To avoid burns, maintenance of a burning fireplace should be carried out using protective gloves and special metal devices.
• The fireplace door should be opened smoothly so as not to create a lot of draft and not get burned.
• An open fire, unless absolutely necessary, cannot be left unattended, so the kindling of the fireplace should be planned taking into account all possible absences.
• The fire must not be forced to extinguish. It is necessary to wait until the firewood burns itself.
• The damper-view can be closed only after an hour or two after the complete attenuation of the coals.
• The chimney must be periodically cleaned of soot to avoid its ignition.

Compliance with these elementary requirements allows you to ensure the safety of the fireplace, maximize its service life, maintain the functionality of the heating facility and save it. appearance.

Before lighting the fireplace, it is required to ventilate the room and open the chimney damper, then check that there is no reverse draft from the fireplace into the room, clean the ash chamber if it is overflowing with ash and unburned coals.
After that, it is necessary to put crumpled paper (except glossy), dry chips, wood chips and small firewood on the grate. Then set fire to it all, starting with paper, and as it flares up, lay firewood crosswise, filling the entire area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe grate of the fireplace. It is necessary to wait until the firewood is almost completely burned out before laying new ones.
To maintain the desired intensity of combustion, take small firewood, but in large quantities. If slow burning is required, then a small amount of large firewood can be burned.

Fireplace fuel

It must be chosen in accordance with the design of the fireplace for which it is intended. The most common designs are wood-burning, gas and some oil-fired fireplaces.
Sometimes peat and coal briquettes are used as fuel, which has some advantages. Anthracite fuel can also be used. This modern material is quite efficient in combustion, it intensively releases heat, while soot settles in a small volume in the chimney.
And yet, it is better to use environmentally friendly fuel for a fireplace - wood that does not contain a lot of resin (alder, oak, aspen or maple, birch, spruce, pine), which does not produce soot and sparks.
Hardwoods are most effective because they burn slowly, with a long, even flame, and therefore are more suitable for large fireboxes. Soft wood burns out faster, accompanying the process with abundant sparks and a strong crack.
There are several rules for burning a fireplace with wood. So, the thickness of all logs should be approximately the same and equal to 6-10 cm, and the length should be 2/3-3/4 of the width of the furnace hole. It is necessary that there are air gaps of up to 1 cm between the logs when laying firewood in the firebox. The normal height of the masonry is 25-30 cm. If all conditions are met when choosing firewood and laying it in modern fireplaces with high efficiency, then one bookmark will last for several hours . How much heat will be from the combustion of wood depends on its humidity. For example, when burning 1 kg of dry pine wood, 4500 kcal is released, if the wood is 30% wet, then 3250 kcal, and in the case of 50% moisture, 2050 kcal.
Freshly cut wood has a moisture content of 50-55%. Therefore, it must be stored for 1-2 years so that it dries out, best of all under a canopy on the street. In the case of outdoor storage, its humidity will drop to 25%, while in a warm room it will be 15%. Therefore, it is recommended to bring firewood into the house in advance, allowing them to dry near the fire, in a firewood niche, which is available in many models of fireplaces. However, it is also not recommended to use too dry firewood, as they quickly burn out.
When choosing a fuel, it should be borne in mind that birch forms a lot of soot during combustion. Aspen, on the contrary, has the ability to burn out the settled soot from the chimney. Cleans the chimney and burning dry potato peels in the fireplace. Total cleaning of the chimney from soot is carried out through an opening with a door, which is arranged from the side of the auxiliary room (front, hallway, corridor, etc.). It is reasonable to make a cleaning hole from the side of the yard if the fireplace is built against the outer wall.
When burning stumps and roots in a flame, a beautiful pattern is formed. And if you use various additives, you can color the flame in the fireplace to your liking. So, table salt will give the fire a bright yellow color, copper chloride will provide a whole palette of colors with strongly pronounced blue and green hues. Additives can be poured directly into the hearth, or you can prepare a solution from them and soak the wood with it before laying it in the fireplace.
A pleasant smell exude burning firewood or dry branches of juniper, cherry, old apple tree.

Elimination of soot from the chimney

• mechanical brushing
• dry cleaning
• vacuuming

An experienced chimney sweep, equipped, as a rule, with a special video camera, after examining the condition of the pipes, will immediately determine which method needs to be applied. Before construction country house it is necessary to consult with a specialist at the design stage so that the cleaning of chimneys does not become a serious problem.
In order for the fireplace to work properly, inspections must be carried out periodically - at the beginning of the heating season and after a long absence from the house. Chimney clogging in the absence of owners is common: birds build nests, and insects weave cobwebs in pipes and lay larvae.
The chimney sweep must know the requirements for the use of heating equipment. After cleaning the chimney, the chimney sweep will be able to issue all the relevant documents for the work. They usually give some guarantees, and if problems arise, the entire responsibility lies with the one who cleaned the pipes.

Rules for the use of the chimney

• Keep the chimney clean.
• Do not throw large pieces of birch bark into the fireplace, it smokes very much, as it contains a lot of tar. Use dry firewood of medium size.
• When the fireplace is just starting up, the sudden opening of doors or windows can create drafts that interfere with kindling. If in the spring the fireplace suddenly began to smoke heavily for no apparent reason and nothing helps, then you need to leave the house and carefully examine the top of the pipe, because rooks and crows often make nests there. In this situation, you can protect the top of the pipe with a vertical mesh.
• The cast-iron firebox is not designed to be used as a heating device separately from the casing and fireplace lining.
• The lining of the fireplace may have useful elements, for example, a special niche in which firewood is stacked some time before burning. If air enters the furnace through it, the fireplace may overheat. To prevent this from happening, you need to ensure that the niche does not overflow with firewood.
• It is useful to heat a new fireplace in trial mode. It is better to do this when it is hot outside, in the early hours or late - in these cases, traction will be better.
• If the fireplace begins to smoke and signs of a deterioration in traction become noticeable, the pipe is clogged with soot. After cleaning, traction will be restored.
• Soot and creosotes sometimes clog the pipe, settling on the walls. You can get rid of them with the help of a long heavy chain, which is lowered into the chimney and dragged along the walls of the pipe.
• In winter, it is recommended to use chemicals that prevent the accumulation of soot and creosote, such as a mixture of copper sulfate and table salt. Half a cup of the mixture is poured over the coals at intervals of once a week.
• Regularly clean the firebox from soot with a brush and remove ashes to always have good draft.
• Make sure that the ash box does not overflow, because the more it is filled, the less air is allowed to the grate, which leads to smoke and a gradual cessation of combustion. However, if there is a small amount of ash and unburned coals on the grate and ash pan, this protects the elements of the fireplace from damage, the appearance of characteristic brown spots on the glass, and also simplifies the ignition process.
• If on long time the use of a cast-iron firebox has ceased, then you need to clean all its internal elements with a brush and rust paste.
• The flue can become damp and cool excessively if the weather is cold or humid. As a result, difficult kindling and the smell of drying mastic, since the draft is still weak. It will be restored when the heating of the channel is sufficient, and the unpleasant smell disappears.
• The weather has a direct effect on the quality of traction, which decreases when it is foggy outside and increases when there is a gusty wind.
• If the fireplace opening is too high, then a metal corner is bolted on top. Using a sheet of plywood, the necessary part of the hole is calculated, which must be closed, and at which the least amount of smoke enters the room, and then instead of plywood, reinforce the corner.
• Do not burn resinous wood species, leaves, plastic, household waste in the fireplace.
• Do not use charcoal lighter fluid or gasoline when lighting, as an explosion may occur along with ignition and/or the flame may rise high up the chimney.
• Stores sell artificial logs wrapped in paper. You can only burn them one at a time, otherwise a small explosion is possible. You can not add them on top of ordinary firewood.
• If the deposits in the pipe caught fire, you need to close the damper, which will block the access of air, and the fire will die out.
• The chimney needs to be whitewashed twice with lime or chalk, since it is easier to notice cracks and other defects on a white surface.
• To reduce the amount of sulfuric acid formed in the chimney, it is necessary to maintain the temperature at the outlet of the chimney at least 70 ° C.
• To determine the temperature of the outgoing gases, do this: in the process of burning, place a dry thin stick across the opening of the view. After 30 minutes, scrape off the soot from the surface and set the temperature by its color:

In the absence of changes - the temperature is not more than 150 ° C;
- if a yellowish color is observed - the temperature is about 200 ° C;
- if brown - 250°С; if black - 300 ° C;
- if coal is formed instead of a stick - 400 ° C.
Acceptable temperature is 250°C.

• A specialist to check the condition of the chimney should be called at least once every two years, and independently checked once a month.
• Install a fire extinguisher next to the fireplace.
• Fence off the firebox with a special protective screen, and make the floor in front of the fireplace fireproof.
• Place furniture and other objects at a distance of at least 1 m from the fireplace.
• Parts of the fireplace heat up when burning - the fireplace insert, the door, so you need to use protective gloves.
• Do not flood wood with water.
• Do not dry things on the fireplace.
• Do not leave children unattended in a room with a working or warm fireplace

Fireplace accessories

To make "communication" with the fireplace easy and pleasant, you must have a set of fireplace accessories, which includes a stand with at least four objects suspended from it and a fireplace grate. On the stand there are: a poker about 70 cm long, tongs, a scoop for collecting ash and a whisk.
The most common accessories are a firewood rack and a fireplace set.
The most common material for fireplace accessories is steel and bronze. Sets are made in two ways: full casting or casting with assembly.
If the accessories for the fireplace are completely molded, then they are monolithic and do not fold, which creates some inconvenience during their transportation. But such casting helps to create the most unexpected effects that can capture the imagination of anyone.

Main accessories

• woodcutter
• poker
• servitor
• grate
• panicle
• scoop
• forceps
• fireplace screen

woodcutter

It is necessary for storing firewood, which should always be at hand. As a rule, a woodcutter is a basket with a handle and is made of sheet metal - steel or brass. Drovniks are matte, gray, black, polished to a shine and decorated with all kinds of embossing.

Poker

It is selected individually, depending on the size of the furnace and the growth of the owner. Its length, as a rule, is from 50 to 70 cm. The poker, first of all, must be strong, therefore it is better if it is made of bronze or steel, since these materials are much stronger than cast iron.
The poker should weigh at least 500 g, but how heavy this accessory can be is up to the owner of the fireplace to decide.
Lightweight poker made of modern alloys, suitable for a high-tech fireplace, for a fireplace in classical style it is better to choose a poker that is heavy and massive.
With its help, it is very convenient to punch and stir coals, break logs that are stuck in the grate of the grate, so when choosing this accessory, you need to pay attention to the shape of the end, which is called the beak.
The beak of the poker can be straight, with a pointed or flat end, with which it is very convenient to break and stir coals. In addition, the beak of the poker can be equipped with an additional spur, which can easily cling to a log, and have a strong curved end, which is convenient for splitting logs.
In a poker, the gripping ability of the handle is especially appreciated - it should be simple and convenient. It is best if it is a round rod made of metal, ceramic, bone or expensive wood. In addition, it should have smooth grooves for the fingers.

Serviter

Serviter is a kind of hanger, which is made in an exquisite style, or a box of an unusual shape with accessories from the same collection and the same design. For example, a set of fireplace accessories can be made in the form of golf clubs.
For storing accessories, a forged rack made of brass and decorated with all kinds of decorative tips in the form of flowers, rings or rectangles can also be used.

Grids

A grate, or, as they are also called, a grate basket, is a metal lattice pedestal necessary for burning firewood. It provides air access during combustion; without a grate, firewood in the fireplace can burn unevenly.
It is installed inside the chamber, then firewood is placed on it and kindled.
Grid-irons are produced in the form of gratings without legs (in this case, stands are needed for them), as well as with legs and in the form of decorative boxes.
The grates must be as stable and strong as possible. They are made of thick-walled cast iron or forged steel.
The weight of some models can reach several tens of kilograms.

scoops

Scoops for collecting ash must have strong edges. Popular recently, scoops made of tin are not very convenient. When collecting ashes, they bend, and the scoop begins to deform. When choosing scoops, it is best to stop at product 3 steel. The handle of such a scoop should be shorter than the length of the poker, but not less than 40 cm.
Recently, many companies specializing in the manufacture of fireplace accessories offer their customers scoops, interchangeable broom heads and a very convenient Ash-clean attachment for a vacuum cleaner, with which it is very convenient to collect ash and small coals in a separate tank.

Panicles

Panicles are made of natural horsehair or artificial bristles, the length of which must be at least 12 cm, but not more than 18 cm. The pile must be thick and dense. The length of the handle of the panicle is not so important, but the main thing is that it does not exceed the length of the poker.

Forceps

Fireplace tongs are necessary in order to make it convenient to firmly grasp logs and coal. They come in a wide variety of shapes, but there are two main variations: scissors with handles (possibly rings) or large tweezers, which are made from a flexible plate, with or without a handle.
Scissor-shaped tongs make it very convenient to grab a log of large diameter. The capture is made with the help of special forceps, which have a curved shape.
The most convenient models of tongs that have finger rings. The tips of the fireplace tongs can be both flat and made in the form of "clawed" spatulas.
Recently, manufacturers of fireplace tongs have made them in the form of spoons, with which it is very convenient to collect coals.

Fireplace bellows

This is a device that amplifies the flame. Bellows, made in a classic style, are a container made of genuine leather, which is sandwiched between two wooden planks with handles and equipped with a metal spout.
Modern furs are made of well-dressed leather (bovine or cowhide), their wooden elements are decorated with carvings or unusual ornaments.
To inflate or intensify the fire, it is enough just to spread and bring the slats together a few times, and the stream of air that escapes from the spout will intensify the flame. Furs can be small, decorative, no more than 30 cm long, as well as functional, the length of which can reach 70 cm.
For functional bellows, the handles should be long and the nose should be elongated, this will help to avoid burns to the face and hands when using them.
Furs should be stored only folded on a special shelf, near the fireplace or fixed on the wall.

fireplace screen

The fireplace screen protects against sparks and embers, improves air circulation and ensures even burning of the fireplace. Fireplace screens are most often made translucent or transparent, a wide variety of designs and styles designed for fireplaces different sizes and design.
Screens can be made of metal mesh with small meshes. The mesh itself, as a rule, is decorated with a decorative ornament in the form of various plants or figurines of birds and animals.
Recently, fireplace screens made of special heat-resistant glass have also appeared. But such screens are not able to withstand prolonged heating by a flame, and can only protect against accidental sparks. Therefore, they must be installed to the fire at a distance of at least 30 cm.

fireplace fan

This is a device with which you can get pretty good traction. Such a fan is best used at the beginning of the fireplace, especially when it is rarely used and the chimney has time to dampen.
Among other things, the fireplace fan does not allow smoke to enter the room. The power that this device consumes is small. It is installed in a horizontal position on the surface of the chimney on a special insulating substrate, to which it is attached with metal corners. It is connected to the mains through a switch, which is installed next to the fireplace.

Fireplace accessories

• mittens and bags, with which it is very convenient to carry logs
• special brushes designed for cleaning chimneys and pipes, which can be stored in vases made of steel or jade
• unusual stands for fireplace matches, made in the form of a vine, a crescent, etc.

Components of the furnace and chimney

Grids- a grate that serves in the fireplace insert for more uniform and complete combustion of fuel. Firewood is kindled faster, and the coals through the grate fall into the ash box.

Portal, among other things, is an external decorative part of the fireplace that adorns the firebox.

Smoke circulation- a system of smoke channels for the removal of gases that are formed from the combustion of fuel in the furnace. The movement is specially organized along an ornate route so that the gases have time to give the maximum amount of heat into the room. Smoke circulation is designed to increase the efficiency of the fireplace. They must have the correct cross section, capable of passing the entire volume of gases. However, if the cross section is too large, the heat output from the gas will not be maximum, which is why the fireplace starts to smoke.

Ash chamber- Ash and fuel particles are collected in it. It is located under the grate brush. Its other purpose is to promote the flow of additional air through the blower and the gaps between the bars of the grate to the fuel in the firebox. This attribute of the fireplace in appearance looks like a flat box. It can be pulled out at any time to clear the ash.

Deflector- a windproof device that is installed on the chimney and increases traction due to wind energy, sucking gases from the chimney.

Hailo- Since ancient times, stove-makers have called the fireplace smoke collector so. It is the place where there is a smooth transition from the firebox to the chimney. Therefore, the beginning of the smoke box is equal in cross section to the firebox, and the end is equal to the chimney.

shiber- this is the name of the type of furnace valve, which regulates draft and does not allow heat to be rejected freely. The rotary gate rotates around an axis passing through its diameter (then it is called a "ram"). These devices in modern conditions are made in such a way that under the influence of a gas flow they rotate, automatically fixing at an angle that is optimal for regulating the flow.

Pre-furnace sheet performs both decorative and practical functions. Firstly, it improves the appearance of the fireplace, creating the effect of volume and depth of the fireplace portal. And its practical function is that sparks and coals flying from the fireplace do not fall on the open floor, but on the pre-furnace sheet. As a result, the floor does not get dirty, scratched or burned through.

Additional elements of the fireplace

• A convector or fireplace insert is a modern electric heater. This is directly a furnace tank in which firewood is burned.
• The flame cutter, the system of double afterburning and forced convection - are designed to "pacify" and "control" the fire in the furnace in order to protect its parts from excessive overheating, as well as to ensure maximum heat return to the room.
• Additional lining - an optional part in the installation of fireplaces, which is either an insulating material with foil or cast iron plates that radiate additional heat.
• Protective doors made of fire-resistant glass. There are double oven doors. In this case, the internal lattice (“coal”) doors protect the coals from falling out and sparks from flying out of the open external oven door, which is made solid or with holes to regulate the air flow entering the furnace.

1. If you need a mounted smoke channel, then do not forget about the possibility of using a steel chimney with a heat-insulating layer of basalt fiber.
2. Care must be taken that the head is not exposed to atmospheric precipitation.
3. In order to carry out periodic cleaning of the chimney from soot at the base of the smoke channel, a pocket is made about 250 mm deep, and a hermetically sealed cleaning hatch is also arranged. If during construction the owner made sure that the fireplace insert was organized accordingly, then cleaning can also be done through it.
4. In order for the smoke duct to work as expected, you need to consider how excess air will enter the room. It can compensate for air consumption during the combustion of fuel in a closed-type fireplace at the rate of 4 cubic meters / kW / hour.
5. From the point of view of operation and safety, the most convenient fireplaces currently available are closed-type fireplaces with a cast-iron firebox.
6. So that at the most inopportune moment the floors in the house do not fail, it is worth considering the permissible loads on the floor and supporting walls when choosing fireplace equipment.
7. The cladding has protruding parts, for example, a wooden shelf, a stiffening belt. They must be attached to the wall. In addition, a cast-iron firebox is placed on a concrete slab of a fireplace lining. The safe distance between the firebox and the fireproof wall is 10 cm. The firebox is connected to the chimney by means of a stainless steel pipe with a diameter of 230 or 200 mm. The points of contact of the pipe with the chimney and the furnace branch pipe are hermetically sealed with fire-resistant materials and heat-resistant mastic.
8. The casing of the fireplace should be made of non-combustible materials. Usually these are gypsum fiber boards attached to a rigid frame made of metal profile. At the same time, it does not hurt to protect the inside of the casing with special insulation, which can be a basalt fiber plate foiled on one side, with which it is installed towards the gypsum-fiber boards, and with aluminum foil towards the connecting pipe.
9. The floor of combustible and slow-burning materials must be protected, for which a metal sheet is placed under the furnace door, the width of which will be 50 cm, the length exceeds the width of the furnace by 20 cm. The sheet should be located long side along the furnace.
10. The casing at its opposite ends has two metal ventilation grilles 35x20 cm, if, of course, they were placed there. They are usually placed at a distance of at least 30 cm from the ceiling. If the builders took care of the presence of a protective screen, then the 35x20 cm gratings in this case are installed under it, and other iron gratings, 10x10 cm, are above it, preferably at different heights.
11. The amount of air supplied directly affects the duration and intensity of the burning of the fire. It depends on how efficiently the firebox will give off heat, while its flow should be regulated using the blower valve. However, effective heat separation also depends on the quality and quantity of fuel.

Proper use of a wood burning fireplace

1. In order for the fireplace to heat well, the ohm must be clean. The furnace must be cleaned every season, and the chimney once every three months. Before the start of the heating season, remove soot and ash through openings closed with bricks or a door. After working with a poker, after cleaning, close the door tightly, and insert the brick into place, fixing it with mortar (pre-moisten the brick and masonry with water). Remove ashes and debris from the firebox (make sure the fireplace is completely cool before cleaning), and sweep or vacuum small particles. Before the next use of the fireplace, make sure that the damper is wide open.

2. The wisest decision is to entrust the chimney to a professional. The specialist will inspect the deflector that protects the chimney from dust, debris, precipitation and small birds, clean the pipe, check the seams and joints, eliminate defects and confirm the safe operation of the fireplace.

H. If the fireplace smokes, place a cap on the chimney. The following test will help to cut off other causes of smoke (improper masonry or design defects): place two brick halves at the corners of the pipe and cover them tightly with a sheet of metal. If the matter is in the cap, the fireplace will stop smoking.

4. The fireplace can smoke when kindling, if it has not been heated for a long time and is damp, and also because of the reverse draft in the pipe when it is cooler in the house than outside. In such cases, it is necessary to open the forward stroke valve (if any) or heat the pipe by burning paper at its base (in cleaning) and at the same time making a fire in the furnace. You can also warm up a cold chimney with a torch or a fireplace lighter directed into the chimney before lighting a fire. After kindling, do not forget to close the valve.

5. The fireplace is less efficient at heating due to poor fuel quality, soot deposits, or a loose damper. Check the condition of the firebox every month and periodically heat the fireplace with aspen or alder wood: they help burn out soot. The danger of soot is that creosote accumulates with it during incomplete combustion of the fuel, and this is a flammable substance that can lead to a fire.

6. If soot builds up on the ceramic glass door, short-term intensive burning is enough: the high temperature will burn the soot particles. Otherwise, dampen a crumpled piece of paper, dip it in the ashes at the bottom of the fireplace, and wipe the glass with this paper with a layer of ashes. Then wipe the glass with clean paper - there will be no trace of soot left.

7. But you should not get rid of ash too often. The ash at the bottom of the hearth insulates the surface from the heat. In addition, pieces of unburnt coal will help to quickly start a fire. Coals can smolder for a very long time, so collect the ash in a metal pail with a lid and do not throw it in the trash in a smoldering state. Ash from untreated wood (without rason and packs) can be used as fertilizer, but cannot be composted.

8. To less often clean the soot from the namin, drown it correctly. If you are using wood to fire the fireplace, make sure it is dry. Hardwoods dry more slowly than softwoods. The ideal solution is to use logs that have been separated into different grades and stored separately for at least six months. If you store firewood outside, make sure that it does not come into contact with the ground (the distance should be at least 30 cm), and there is ventilation between the logs. To protect the woodpile from dew and rain, cover it with a tarp.

9. By burning paper and wood together, you can achieve a small fire that gives a lot of heat. As soon as the fire intensifies, you need to add large logs to the kindling. To keep the fireplace warm, toss hardwood into the flames. There will be almost no dirty smoke from a small hot fire.

10. Use only natural wood and white matte paper to kindle the fireplace. Other combustible materials can harm the chimney and your health. If heating with briquettes, choose those that have the least amount of pollutants. It is better to refuse coniferous wood: resins will cause accumulation of creosote in the chimney, which can lead to a fire. It is safer to heat the fireplace with wood and hardwood briquettes (maple, birch, oak) - they are the most environmentally friendly and give a long hot fire.

11. Heat for 1.5-2 hours (depending on fuel) in the morning and in the evening without overheating the fireplace. The more the oven heats up, the more heat will simply fly out. The walls of the fireplace should not heat up above * 80″С.

12. In the optimal combustion mode, the firewood crackles fervently, and the fireplace hums slightly. In this case, the flame is light yellow in color, and the smoke from the chimney is colorless. The quality of combustion depends on the correct laying of firewood. The height of the bookmark should be up to 30 cm.

13. Do not try to increase the power of the fireplace by replacing wood with coal or other more high-calorie fuel. And do not fully open the damper to accelerate heating; draft will increase, but heat loss will be higher. When the fire becomes stable, close the damper.

14. For regular care of namin, get all necessary tools- scoop, brush, tongs, poker. For open hearth fireplaces, purchase a protective screen that will protect your home from shooting sparks.

15. Never fill the flame with water: the fireplace will crack due to temperature changes.

A little about heat dissipation

Classic naminas with a shallow open firebox built into the wall framed by a portal are beautiful, but not functional. At a high cost, they have a significant flaw - low efficiency, the limit of which is 20%. Such fireplaces will heat only a small room, and it is impossible to influence the amount of heat they emit.

Practical owners prefer cast-iron stoves with a closed firebox to classic fireplaces, the efficiency of which reaches 80%. Two or three stacks of logs (although they can run on different fuels - peat, coal, diesel and gas) - and a fireplace with a closed firebox warms its owner all day. Power up to 25 kW allows you to heat an area of ​​250 m2. In this case, the strength of the flame can be adjusted using a damper. Furnaces with transparent doors (the hearth in such fireplaces is closed with heat-resistant glass) are equipped with secondary afterburning of flue gases and have an advantage in maintenance (less ash). Furnaces without cladding, painted with heat-resistant paint, are unlikely to become an interior decoration, but they are more convenient to use. Such fireboxes are mobile (they can be placed in any desired place) and easy to install (they are easily connected to the chimney). For zealous owners, fireplace stoves are also good because you can cook on them: some of the models are equipped with a small stove.

On a note:

How to properly heat a stove or fireplace

Having flooded the stove or fireplace, one must always remember that a warm friend can become a dangerous enemy if you do not pay due attention to him. A few simple rules will help you safely enjoy the comfort of your hearth.

Kindling and maintaining a fire in the hearth I consider an art. Of course, there is a set of rules, but there are some personal ways to control tamed fire. Everyone who does this with love begins to use their own methods, sometimes without even realizing it. For example, I always put a birch log in the fireplace with the bark down - just to see and hear a lively, cheerful, crackling flame.

Kindling

Building a fire is not rushed. If the firewood is dry, a piece of birch bark and a few thin torches are enough for the fuse. And now the fire is already frolicking merrily in the fireplace. But more often it happens that the firewood is damp, when kindled, they turn black, smoke and go out, evil blue tongues of a slightly warm flame run through them. Such firewood does not have enough temperature for combustion. In this case, it is necessary, without haste, to make 2-3 heatings with thin torches, let them burn out and form at least a small layer of hot glowing coals. Raw firewood, laid on such coals, will begin to dry slowly and hiss slightly, and then they will take up fire. When the side of the logs lying on the coals burns and becomes grayish-white, you need to carefully turn the firewood over with a poker and distribute it in the firebox so that there is a small distance between them - about 2-3 cm. The firewood will immediately light up well.

Furnace process

When the flame in the fireplace is already stable, you do not need to throw up a lot of firewood at once. They, of course, will get busy and will burn very strongly, with noise and hum - and the flame will beat not in the fireplace portal, but in the smoke box. But, firstly, all the heat will quickly go into the chimney, and secondly, and this is the main thing, the fireplace in such a situation can be overheated. The brickwork may burst - and the furnace gases will rush into the cracks, "smoke from all the cracks." Then such a fireplace is almost impossible to repair. A friend of mine, a stove-maker, said about this: “Very often, strangers ruin a good fireplace. For example, workers doing repairs in the house can burn construction waste and even foam plastic in the fireplace. Don't trust strangers to fire your fireplace."

Finally, you have melted the fireplace - now you can sit near it, resting your body and soul, as long as you like. The flame in the fireplace should be calm, the ends of the tongues should not be higher than the top of the portal. If you have a fireplace - with doors, leaving it, cover them: the traction force can be adjusted with blowers in the lower parts of the doors.

The draft in the fireplace can also be adjusted with a valve in the pipe, but you can cover it during the furnace by no more than a quarter. When the fireplace flares up and several hours pass, the heated bricks of the firebox begin to radiate the most wonderful and useful heat that penetrates the body, warms it very softly and pleasantly. This warmth can be used to treat back, joint and cold ailments - or just enjoy it on a cold winter evening.

The end of the firebox

This is a responsible process, and there are several conditions that must be met.

The main thing - do not leave even parts of the log in the fireplace, even if it is completely black, does not burn or smoke: it is dangerous! In the closed firebox of the namin, the temperature is very high, the unburned wood will almost certainly begin to smolder, and then catch fire. Having finished the furnace and closing the valve, we block the exit of furnace gases, including dangerous carbon monoxide, which gives itself out as small blue flames. Such tongues at the end of the firebox should not be at all. You can leave a small amount of small red coals by breaking them with a poker. But only if you have a simple furnace valve in the pipe, 8 of which there is a small gap for the exit of hot furnace gases. Although, of course, a large amount of heat is lost through such a valve.

There is furnace fittings - a view. This is a plate in the chimney - with a hole, overlapping with a completely round "blink" and a lid. This design allows you to save much more heat, but now it is extremely rare. However, if you have a view, do not leave even red coals in the stove or fireplace.

In the evening, finishing the firebox of my fireplace, I always close its doors with a feeling of regret and a slight sadness from parting with the fire. And I believe that tomorrow we will meet again and again we will look at each other for a long time.

© Alexandra Zakharova

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