Hinges for metal doors made of aluminum must not only withstand heavy loads, but also serve for a long time. Much attention is paid to the way they are installed on the door.
Different types profile
With the spread of technology, some familiar things are changing. Doors, for example, are increasingly being made of plastic and aluminium. These are modern profile designs, graceful, light. But they have different strength levels. Aluminum solutions are increasingly used for entrance groups shops, public buildings, many install them on the verandas of houses. Here, not standard hinges for metal doors are used, but special systems, the task of which is to provide control of sashes that do not have a completely standard design.
According to the nature of thermal protection, two types of aluminum profiles can be distinguished:
warm;
cold.
Naturally, these are only conditional names. Warm received such a name for the reason that inside it has a special insert made of polymer material. It serves as a kind of insulation, so when the air temperature drops, the inside of the profile does not cool as much as the outside. There is a significant reduction in heat loss. It goes away only because the thermal conductivity of the metal is high, and the inner surface of the frame still cools down.
A cold profile is the simplest technical solution, a sheet of metal bent in the right way. It does not have an internal filler; when frost sets in, all the problems associated with the lack of compensation are observed:
heat loss,
sharp cooling of the inner surface of the frame,
condensate,
sometimes - freezing ice.
These are the main differences related to the user characteristics of the two types of profile and affecting the price of the finished product.
There is another important factor that concerns the types of hinges for an aluminum door or window sash. Depending on which profile is used for the manufacture of the construct, hinges are selected:
overhead,
hidden,
universal,
unilateral.
They are fastened in several ways, differ in the material from which they are made, the opening angle, adjustment options and other subtleties.
Materials used for manufacturing
For aluminum structures, hinges for metal doors, systems, the appearance of which is familiar to literally everyone, are not used. However, the same materials are used:
brass;
stainless or slightly rusty alloys;
stainless steel;
aluminum and alloys based on it.
Each of the materials has its own advantages, which forms the scope of certain loops.
Brass.
Brass hinges are ideal for creating various finishes. The metal is ductile, easy to process, polish, and provides good adhesion. Also, brass hinges are the most common option in the case of hidden structures, which become visible at certain moments of the door movement. Such accessories are very durable, provide long-term reliable operation, no plaque or discoloration forms on the surface. The applied coating holds up very well.
Alloys based on iron.
Widely used in designs with adjustment. Hidden under the overlays or inside the elements allow various appearance defects - darkening of the surface, abrasion, oxidation. The only key requirements for such parts are strength and wear resistance, which iron-based alloys can successfully provide.
Stainless steel.
The most durable material for the manufacture of hinges for aluminum structures. They can withstand the enormous weight of the canvas, have modern appearance, polished surface is very durable, characterized by a pleasant mirror finish or deliberately matted. Almost no oxide film is formed, so the look is perfect - even color and other characteristics.
The disadvantage is that stainless steel parts are poorly galvanized. This material is difficult to coat. Another disadvantage is the complexity of processing, so stainless steel hinges are the most expensive. If you look at the market offers, you can safely say that without overlays there are only one type of stainless steel products: the color of polished metal or with a matte surface.
Aluminum and alloys are not its basis. Such loops are quite rare. Although they belong to a low price group, they have enough disadvantages that limit their use. For example, stainless steel hinges can withstand maximum loads - 150 kg for two hinges is considered a normal indicator.
Brass hinges have similar advantages - here the recommended weight of the door leaf is 100 kg for two hinges. Aluminum cannot boast of such a level. However, hinges for aluminum structures made of the same material are found at entrance doors with a small glass area, with a total weight of 50-60 kg. This solution is especially common in the field of hidden loops.
Fastening methods
Depending on the profile used, there are several options for connecting the hinge to the fastening area of the web. Some of them allow you to speed up the assembly as much as possible, others provide the possibility of multiple installation, and others are applicable only for a certain type of profile.
Cold designs. There is more freedom for engineering solutions. The profile is empty, so there are no restrictions on the use of anchors, self-tapping screws or internal fasteners. Distribution received two main methods: mortgages and quick assembly.
When installing mortgages, an element is placed inside the part from the profile, into which screws are screwed. Its design depends mainly on the configuration of the space, dimensions, profile brand. The ability of the hinge to carry the weight of the sash depends on the area of the embedded plate and the thickness of the metal wall. Standard recommendations for this type of fastening are as follows: 100 kg of door mass, 1.7 mm profile wall thickness, 25 square centimeters of the embedded plate area. For stainless steel overhead hinges, this type of connection is the most common.
Expansion anchors are used to speed up installation. This is an element that is inserted into the hole, when the bolt head is screwed in, the inner part expands and securely presses the loop to the profile. This collection method, like the previous one, allows multiple installation. You can unwind, pull out the anchor, change the loop if necessary.
Warm designs. For the installation of products from a profile filled with insulation, embedded plates are used. The difference between a cold profile is that they are placed in advance, in clearly regulated areas. To fix them in one position, special spacers are used. Fastening with an expansion anchor is also available.
There is another way - screwing anchors with self-tapping. Although the installation speed will be maximum, the key disadvantage is that multiple disassembly-installation is not possible. The thread is gradually destroyed, the connection becomes fragile. For a warm profile with dense filler, a wedge anchor is used - when screwing in, the inner part expands and securely fixes the parts.
Special types of accommodation
Separately, it is worth noting the hidden loop options. They are mounted on the end parts of aluminum parts. Therefore, a fit in a cutout or an overlay on a surface is most often used. Fastening is carried out using expansion anchors or self-tapping connections. Here, the minimum requirements, mortgages are not used, since the loop itself distributes the force over the area of \u200b\u200bits fastening zones.
All kinds of hinges are used for aluminum doors. In order not to reinvent the wheel, contact the suppliers of your products. Some types of fittings can be inexpensive, but are only used for a certain type of profile.
If the goal is to create a completely invisible connection or other non-standard cases, you should choose special fittings for this purpose. Today, among technological solutions, there are a lot of convenient options that can provide any conceivable characteristics, parameters and conveniences.
What is a door frame – known to everyone. This is a component of any entrance or interior unit to which the sash is attached. The strength and durability of the door depends on the quality of this product, therefore, when choosing, one should not only take into account the dimensions of the opening into which the door jamb will be installed, but also the material from which it is made, the thickness of the timber. Since there is no single state standard size for the door, the task of optimal selection gets a little more complicated. Most door manufacturers offer their products in a complete set, which greatly simplifies the situation. But let's assume that's not the case for you...
Door frames are purchased and installed when the isolation of one room in the apartment from another will be carried out using swing-type structures. For interior and interior products, types of molded door frames are frames made from types of wood that differ in minimal fluctuations in their overall dimensions depending on the relative humidity of the air in the room. Most often it is a wooden frame made of larch or linden. Pine is considered a less suitable material. It is not recommended to order or purchase door jambs from alder, hornbeam, beech, oak (the latter option will cost too much, and other types of wood may warp under the influence of excess or insufficient moisture in the air). Separate mention should be made of the execution of these products from steel or from impact-resistant and water-resistant plastic. They have limited use: it is either a box for front door, or (plastic) - for the bathroom or bathroom.
The choice of dimensions and design depends on:
- Designs - double, single, one and a half.
- Overall dimensions (length, depth, height).
- Estimated place under the opening.
- The presence or absence of a threshold.
Design features
The frame for a door without a threshold has a U-shaped design, which includes two vertical posts. The height of these elements is the same, and they are connected to each other by means of a crossbar. Such products are quite flexible in their installation, since they can be used in a set with a sash of various heights (for example, with an individual order). Plus, they're cheaper. The structures of the second type also have their advantages - with a rectangular frame, where a threshold is already provided. This option is more preferable in a practical sense, since it reduces the complexity of installation and installation work. If the door jamb is designed to open a bathroom or toilet, it must have a threshold, as it protects against possible leaks and unpleasant odors.
The door jamb is supplied with architraves and extensions. The first allow you to ennoble the finished doorway, and the latter will be needed when the thickness of the wall in the room differs markedly from the depth of the box.
Door wooden frame is classified according to the following parameters:
- by type of platbands: simple or telescopic;
- by configuration: with or without additional elements;
- according to the design of the racks: with or without a sealing profile;
- according to the method of installing fittings - invoice or embedded.
A door jamb with telescopic architraves is considered more convenient, since it involves easy reinstallation when performing repair work. It is more difficult to dismantle a structure with platbands nailed or glued.
How to choose the right product size
Standard sizes door structures domestic production (the same is also adopted in Italy, Spain and Finland) is characterized by the following parameters:
- Door leaf width, mm - 550,600,700,800,900.
- Height, mm - 1900.2000, 2100.
- Thickness door frame, mm - 20…75.
Such a significant range of thickness is explained by the peculiarities of the walls in the rooms. For example, for walls made of drywall or brick, products with a depth of 75 mm are considered ideal: they are easier to install, and with a slight difference, additional elements can always be used.
- If the single door you like is made in France, then you should know: 690, 790, 890 mm are considered standard widths there.
- Doors less than 600 mm wide may not be functional for bathrooms and kitchens if you periodically need to bring in large household appliances (refrigerator, washing machine etc.).
If it is necessary to determine the dimensions of door frames for existing doors, the following should be taken into account:
- color scheme of the door;
- finishing method (veneer and its texture);
- whether the door is equipped with an automatic, retractable threshold or not;
- whether the door is equipped with a hydraulic device for automatic closing.
Size selection sequence
The initial data are the dimensions of the opening, and the place where it is supposed to be equipped. The box should usually be around the perimeter no more than 20–25 mm larger than the corresponding size of the sash. If the floors in the room have not yet been laid, then be sure to take into account the height of the screed and the type of coating. Additional restrictions are also possible: for example, if the room will have water or infrared heated floors.
The width of the door frame should be linked to the height of the ceilings: sometimes the features of the bearing coating in a house or apartment make it impossible to install a door frame with the required dimensions. A special case is when the product is mounted in a room with plasterboard partitions. If you are not the first owner of a home, then it would be good to find out from the previous owner the layout of the metal bearing profiles on which the drywall boards were installed. Otherwise, an unpleasant surprise may await you in the form of unforeseen work to reinstall part of the wall of the room.
In accordance with the parameters of the opening, the standard domestic dimensions of the door frame are taken into account as follows:
- To the known width of the sash, the double value of the thickness of the beam is added, while it should be borne in mind that the cross-sectional profile of the box has an L-shaped shape.
- The protruding part of the seal is taken into account, with a thickness of 300 mm and a height of 25–30 mm, as well as a supporting surface for the timber. The exact difference in height dimensions is determined by the thickness of the doors themselves.
- Next, add a 20-25 mm gap for mounting the box, and compare the result with the existing dimensions of the opening.
It is better to expand the opening a little later than to artificially narrow it later with extensions, additional wooden boards and other structures, which will eventually reduce the strength of the structure and contribute to heat leakage through inevitable leaks.
Similarly, but taking into account the threshold, the dimensions of the product in height are taken into account.
Advice. When measuring, it is necessary, in order to avoid distortions, to use a laser or at least a conventional level.
Installation difficulties with a large difference between the door jamb and the opening
The greatest problems with the installation of the door frame arise when the opening differs sharply from the depth of the product (more than 10%). In such cases, it is necessary to install slopes, or, which is less rational, to cut the timber longitudinally with an artificial decrease in its thickness (no more than 10–15 mm!). Such an operation will require a certain skill and the use of high-quality tools.
The installation of extensions justifies itself in cases where the opening does not have exact dimensions in height and width (this does not apply to concrete and brick surfaces). Then measurements are made at least at three points, and the average value is taken into account. It is better to purchase plastic extensions: they are more plastic, and easier to adhere to the main surface. The color and texture of the surface of the additional elements must fully correspond to the material of construction.
Small (up to 20–25 mm) gaps between the opening and the frame are easily closed by installing wide architraves. The range of such products in specialized supermarkets is large, so choosing the right size will not be too difficult.
Important! You should not purchase those types of door frames that are made by a combination of wood elements with MDF, multilayer plywood, etc. The difference in the physical and mechanical properties of materials can most likely lead to warping of the product, and as a result, to difficulties with high-quality closing.
If you decide to start building a residential building or to overhaul an apartment, you will inevitably have to face the choice of doors. They not only perform the function of protecting your home from external influences, but also serve as decoration in the interior.
The market is replete with this product - both domestic and foreign, so the choice for the uninitiated person is difficult. When choosing, it is best to focus on standard sizes. interior doors with a box. This simplifies their installation and reduces your costs for the interior element in question.
An interior door with a frame is called a door block, the parameters of which are regulated by GOST 6629-88 in force in the Russian Federation. Block parameters: the height, width of the door frame and its thickness depend on their location in the room - living room, kitchen, bathroom, toilet, since the parameters of openings during mass construction were standardized in the Soviet Union and have been preserved to this day in housing construction projects .
In addition, 80 percent of the housing stock of Russians was built in the USSR in accordance with the aforementioned GOSTs and is regularly repaired. So, for example, the width of the toilet opening is 71 or 81 cm, in the bathroom 91 and 101 cm, and in the kitchen 121 cm, height 207 cm, openings between living rooms vary from 101 to 191 cm (single and double doors), height 237 cm The majority of domestic manufacturers are guided by these standards, and a number of foreign ones have similar ones.
It should also be noted the improved quality of products of Russian furniture factories working on high-tech equipment. According to GOST, the standard dimensions of interior blocks should be 3 cm less than the size of the opening in height and width. In practice, this gap is much smaller and is about 1 cm. The thickness of the door frame depends on the thickness of the walls in the room, which in standard Russian apartments is 7.5 cm.
Therefore, the most common standard box thickness is 7.5 cm, although larger sizes may be available. If the wall is thicker than 7.5 cm, the block is assembled with door extensions covering the uncovered wall elements. Dobors are not regulated by GOST and are produced in widths from 8 to 20 cm in increments of 1 cm.
Boxes are made from coniferous wood, mostly from pine, which is less prone to warping and deformation, and the canvas is made from a variety of materials: solid hardwood, profiled PVC, aluminum, using glass. The thickness of the box also depends on the weight of the canvas.
The dimensions of the box are regulated by standards that recommend the use of timber no more than 30 mm in width and 80 mm in thickness. However, in practice, a beam of large dimensions is also used. Light interior doors are mounted on a bar 50-60 mm thick, heavier ones made of oak or glazed - on a bar 7.5-9.4 cm. finished product has a complex configuration, which is also regulated by the standards, which allows the use of a canvas of various sizes in thickness.
Prefabricated door blocks: main dimensions
Quite often, door blocks are assembled by craftsmen from the main elements. The canvas is usually bought, and the box is assembled from the elements and adjusted to fit the opening. In this case, it is necessary to pay attention to both the thickness of the box and the dimensions of the quarter in the selected door unit. The thickness of the canvas must correspond to the size of the selected quarter of the interior door frame, otherwise it may not close.
Prefabricated doors will be significantly more expensive than standard ones, their quality may be worse. They resort to assembling doors from elements in cases of a large discrepancy between the openings and standard blocks. In addition, standard blocks are ennobled at the factory with a coating of valuable wood species with high level quality, which is impossible to do in artisanal conditions.
Nevertheless, the market offers such services, and they are in great demand, especially in the construction of individual houses and cottages. Domestic standards differ from the standards of imported blocks, primarily from the products of countries such as Spain, Italy, Finland, Sweden. The main differences in the standards relate to the width and height of the canvas.
The differences are insignificant (5-6 cm), but when buying products from these countries, installation difficulties may arise due to a mismatch between the doorways of the purchased blocks or when installing the canvas in standard carton. Problems may arise in the future when replacing the canvas, which will be difficult to find on sale. Therefore, it is recommended to focus on Russian standards.
Before buying door blocks, you should carefully measure the openings of the living space: the height, width and depth of each of them. This will allow you not to make a mistake and choose the standard sizes of interior doors with a frame, significantly saving on this and simplifying installation. Below are the standard sizes of door frames for interior doors according to GOST.
| Room type | Opening width/height, mm | Box width/height, mm | Box thickness, mm | Door leaf width/height, mm | Blade thickness, mm |
| Toilet | 700x2100 | 670x2070 | 60 | 600x2000 | 30 |
| Bathroom | 800x2100 | 770x2070 | 60 | 700x2000 | 30 |
| Bathroom, kitchen | 900x2100 | 870x2070 | 60 | 800x2000 | 40 |
| Living room | 1000x2100 | 970x2070 | 75 | 900x2000 | 40 |
| Living room | 1200x2100 | 1170x2070 | 75-94 | 1100x2000 | 40 |
| Living room | 1300x2100 | 1270x2070 | 75-94 | 1200(600+600)х2000 | 40 |
| Living room | 1500x2300 | 1470x2270 | 75-94 | 1400(700+700)x2200 | 40 |
| Living room | 1900x2400 | 1870x2370 | 75-94 | 1800(900+900)х2300 | 40 |
Repair, especially major, is a complex process. It is necessary to think over many points in advance, so that later you do not have to redo, customize. One of the important elements in the installation door block apartment, is the width of the door frame of the interior door. To do this, in order to install the door, you need to prepare the right size opening in the wall. Let us dwell on the question of how to correctly calculate the width of the opening, box and door leaf. This is important from the point of view of the normal functioning of the door as a whole.
Scheme with the dimensions of the door frame of the interior door
Most manufacturers in the serial production of doors, frames, platbands are guided by the standards adopted in a given country. They are reflected in GOSTs (GOST 6629-88) and building codes and regulations (SNiP). The standard is suitable for houses that are built based on these standards. But they are more of a general recommendation. 
Among the variety of design solutions, it is far from always possible to maintain standard wall thickness dimensions, this is especially true for monolithic-frame construction. With the now fashionable free layout, the customer himself chooses which door, respectively, the width of the opening, he wants to make.
In this case, you need to be prepared for the fact that if the selected width does not meet the standards, the door unit will have to be ordered individually. Naturally, it will cost more, the choice of ready-made door blocks is narrowing.
Drawing and sketch of the door frame
The problem of non-standard openings often arises during the reconstruction of old houses, especially with high ceilings, for example, in "stalinkas". It will be necessary to either adjust the opening to the standards, or also order the doors individually.
Read also
Design of openings without doors
Standard width of the opening, frame, door leaf
Uninformed people often confuse the concepts of “doorway width” and “box width”. At this point, you need to pay attention, as this may lead to the fact that you have to change the purchased door block kit.
Door leaf size table
Basic terms and notation:
- Width - the distance between the sides of the hole cut in the wall for installing the box.
- Height - measured from the floor to the end of this opening.
- Depth - the thickness of the wall in the opening.
It is a frame structure in which the door is mounted.
- Width - the distance between the posts.
- Height - the length of the racks.
- Depth - the width of the beam racks.
Door leaf. 
The standard canvas has a rectangular shape. Accordingly, the dimensions of the rectangle will be the width and height, and the depth will be the thickness of the door.
Standard sizes
There are several standards that builders try to adhere to. If they are observed, there will be no problems with the installation of the door block.
Standard door leaf sizes
Basic standards:
When installing the box, it is leveled and wedged with the help of spacers made of timber chips. Then the gap is foamed. Spacers are also placed inside the box, since the foam, expanding, can squeeze out the racks and lintels.
The basis for the calculation will be the door leaf. Standard door size width: 600; 700; 800; 900 mm.
Here is an example of box calculations:
Door leaf 80 cm / 800 mm in width and 200 cm / 2 thousand mm in height.
Door frame width: 800 + 70 = 870 mm
Height: 2000 + 80 / 50 = 2080 / 2050 mm
Using such a simple calculation, you can easily get the correct dimensions of all components of the door block. Such a simple formula is used in the calculation of non-standard sizes of canvases.
Table of typical sizes of doorways
When calculating a metal front door, the same rules are used, only the minimum distance from the box to the opening should be at least 150 to 200 mm, given the width of the box. The same parameters are recommended for the installation of double doors. When installing heavy armored doors, it is necessary to reinforce the opening with metal. The calculation in this case must be especially careful.
Project and drawing with dimensions of double doors
Separately, it is worth dwelling on wooden canvases, standard and custom-made. Most of the solid wood door blocks have thicker box walls. This is especially true for wide doors at 800; 900 mm, double-leaf designs. Masters make massive boxes to strengthen the frame. In addition, such a box is harmoniously combined with a heavy solid wood. This point should be taken into account when calculating the doorway.
Sooner or later, every apartment owner has to deal with the problem of a major overhaul, during which it will be necessary to replace the door frames for interior doors. The task of installing a door frame in a doorway does not require any specific carpentry skills, the main thing is attention and accuracy in work.
How to put a door frame, sequence of operations
Any work on replacing door frames begins with a study of the width and condition of the walls, the old loot and the opening. Often the walls themselves, brick and concrete require cosmetic repairs, finishing and restoration of plaster, therefore, before assembling the door frame, it is necessary to remove the trim and restore the integrity of the brickwork.
The very procedure for installing the door frame of an interior door is simple, and its implementation fits into a few simple operations:
- They remove the door, saw the loot in width with a hand saw and carefully dismantle the old box, freeing the doorway;
- Measure the width of the doorway in at least four places. If you plan to install new door larger width, you will need to cut the vertical walls of the opening with a grinder and a puncher. But this must be done very carefully so as not to break the brickwork;
- Measure the exact width and height of the new door. Measure on the wall the required dimensions of the doorway, taking into account allowances for the thickness of the boards and the width of the gaps. The overall width of the opening will be determined as the width of the interior door frame plus 25mm per side for mounting hardware and foam;
- Mark the beam or board purchased to assemble the box, cut down the joints on the jambs, sew it on with self-tapping screws and try it on for a new door. Install the box in the doorway, check the width and fix it with self-tapping screws and foam.
Advice! If not complete confidence in your skills and accurate understanding of how to install and fasten the door frame, you can participate in the process of replacing the door frame with neighbors or friends, make a test drink with your own hands, or watch a video, for example:
Which door frame option to choose
Factory-made interior doors are often produced and sold with a set of standard-width door frames disassembled. This option saves you from having to choose the width of the box with your own hands, but there are no guarantees that the door frame is assembled correctly. Therefore, often the door of the required width is bought separately, and the board or MDF-MDF boards separately. Standard sizes of door frames - thickness and width of doors are given in the table:
In addition, when choosing the dimensions of the material for building a loot, it must be taken into account that the thickness of the door frame of an interior door is a standard value, but the walls in width, even within the same apartment, can vary greatly. Therefore, for each interior door, you have to check the width of the doorway, draw up your passport with dimensions and, if necessary, buy additional elements that allow you to expand the width of the door opening to the width of the walls.
For the manufacture of a loot or a door frame of the desired width, the following are most often used:
- Finished profile made of pressed fibreboard or MDF;
- Profiled pine board, suitable in width, the surface of which is sanded to the quality of a laminate or covered with a polymer film.
If you have a choice, use profiled softwood boards to assemble the door frame. Such a material has good machinability, high strength, and does not pick up moisture, like pressed materials made from paper and wood fibers.
For your information! A self-tapping screw, screwed into the wood according to the rules, will provide 100% of the strength of the connection, a similar fastener for pressed paper provides 30% of the design strength of the fastener.
In addition, a pine frame will allow you to install heavier doors, such as MDF, glass or solid wood. Wood fiber materials are suitable only for the lightest cardboard structures.
We put a door frame of standard width
Before cutting the vertical and horizontal elements of the box, it is necessary to decide on the method of joining boards or timber into one structure. The most durable and easiest to manufacture is a thorn-groove joint. To do this, cut out two blanks of vertical racks - hinged and feigned parts. Double the thickness of the workpiece must be added to the estimated length of the rack. In a similar way, mark and cut out the ceiling beam. On the lintel, with the help of a drill and a hacksaw, spikes are cut out at both ends, on vertical posts along the finished spikes, the lintels are marked and the counterpart is cut in the form of grooves. The nut is made in the same way.
If the width of the wall is greater than the thickness of the box, the boards are built up with additional elements, as in the diagram.
If the width of the opening in the wall over size boxes, in this case, on the outer part of the loot, from the side of the hinged or hinged beam, an additional beam segment is sewn, as in the diagram. If the width of the opening is too large, the feigned part of the box is also supplemented in a similar way.
On the side, the loot is performed on the door leaf laid in a horizontal position. After fitting all the parts and aligning the corners of the box, the joints are glued and connected with carpentry screws. To preserve the resulting geometry of the loot, the structure is sheathed with wooden planks - spacers, carefully removed from the door leaf and installed in the doorway.
Door frame installation
The plow will be set correctly if every movement or alignment is controlled with a spirit level. Due to the low rigidity, the design “plays”, therefore, immediately after installation, the box opening is slightly wedged with thin wooden blocks. To avoid extrusion of the sidewalls and the ceiling beam into the frame, use a pair of wooden spacers, as in the photo.
The box is pre-aligned according to the readings of the level gauge and notches are made on the walls, in the future they will help to quickly restore the previous position of the loot. Wooden structure fasten to the wall with long self-tapping screws, for heavy doors you can use anchor fasteners.
On the lintel and vertical racks, we drill two thin holes with an electric drill, 0.5 mm less than the diameter of the self-tapping screw. Next, we remove the loot, according to the marks of the drill on the walls, we punch holes and install dowels for 6 mm self-tapping screws.
We return the loot to its place, insert the screws and wrap it by 10-15 mm. After that, using the level, we restore the correct position of the box and screw the fasteners to the full length. The gap between the beam and the wall is blown with foam.
Conclusion
Before the foam hardens, it is necessary to check the position of the door frame again according to the building level, if necessary, carefully knock out at the place of deviation. After polyurethane foam will pick up half the rigidity, you need to tighten the screws again and close the hats with decorative caps. After installing the canopies, we fix the platbands.