One of the most popular types of interior decoration is wallpapering. But for the result to please, you need to know how to glue the wallpaper correctly. There are enough nuances that affect the quality of the finish.
Preparatory stage
First, everything that can be removed is removed in the room, including door trims and baseboards, if possible. They also remove sockets and switches, closing boxes with wires with plugs - plastic or wooden.
Disconnecting electrical outlets
When working with an electrician, we de-energize the room and do not turn it on until we finish. It is advisable to carry out all work, including gluing wallpaper, with the power off. The work is "wet" and water or glue can get on the wires and short-circuit. If the wiring is done according to all the rules and there are circuit breakers, this is not a big deal. They just cut off the power and that's it.
If the wiring is still the old way, it can be dangerous. Worst of all, in this case, there is often no way to turn off the power in a separate room. Only in the whole apartment or, at best, in its half. Then the way out is to remove the power wires from the sockets and switches (with the power off, of course) and carefully insulate the ends, then hiding them under the plugs. Then you have to unwind them and put them in place, but it will be safe.
Lighting during work is made temporary - they pull extension cords from other rooms and turn on portable lamps. After you figured out the electricity, you can move on.
Sealing irregularities
Here you will first have to assess the condition of the walls. First you need to pull out all the nails, screws, remove the chips and open the cracks. Then examine the results. If the walls are more or less even, there are only small defects, occasional alignment can be dispensed with. Only cracks, dents, chips are covered. They can be covered with finishing putty. Just before leveling the wall, completely clean it of dust and pieces of wallpaper, and then cover it with a primer (roller the walls and a brush in the corners).
If the wall is after "processing" with a perforator, you cannot do without a full-fledged putty of the entire wall. Basically, gypsum putty is used today. First, apply a layer of primary or starting. It has a coarser grain and the layer can be up to 3-5 mm. With this composition, the main irregularities are leveled, trying to achieve an even surface. After drying, they pass with a special mesh, removing irregularities and sagging that may be.
After that, a finishing putty is used. It is very flexible and is applied in a thin layer - up to 1-2 mm. After it, the wall becomes smooth (after the irregularities were smoothed out with a mesh, only with a smaller cell).
Wall priming
The second layer of primer is applied after filling. It forms a film on the surface that reduces the absorbency of the adhesive and also improves adhesion. For the case of wallpapering, you can use a more liquid wallpaper glue as a primer. Each pack has a table that indicates the amount of water for pasting and priming. We dilute the glue in the right proportion, wait for it to be ready (also on the package) and cover the walls with the composition. The primer technique is the same: first go through the corners with a brush, then with a roller on even surfaces.
For some reason, in the video, the use of primary putty is called plaster, but otherwise the sequence of actions is correct.
Sticking rules
When wallpapering, there are several rules that must be followed. The technique varies depending on the type of wallpaper, as does the glue that is required for a high-quality result. the main difference is when and where to apply the adhesive. You don't have to guess. Everything is on the liner, which is on each roll of wallpaper. There, in a graphic form, it is shown, and in some it is written, which of the parts should be smeared with glue: only the wall or only the wallpaper, or maybe both at once.
But some things remain the same. For example, drawing a start strip.
Where to start
In reality, the starting point is not that important. It is important that the first strip is glued strictly vertically. Therefore, the choice is yours.
If the room has a perfectly drawn angle: even and exactly vertical, you can start from there. You can start from a door with a perfectly exposed jamb. If nothing like that, draw yourself a landmark yourself. Take a building level, mark a point on the wall and draw an exact vertical line through it. Inexpensive building levels of the household class, which we usually use for repairs, sometimes give a solid error. And since it is important for us to stick the first strip strictly vertically, check the accuracy of the line using a plumb line. Here he never lies, pointing straight down. If everything is fine, you will align the edge of the strip along this line.
If you still have not decided where you need to start gluing wallpaper and this is your first experience in this area, start with the wall that is less visible than others. For example, the one along which there is a closet. A couple of front pages will be difficult for you, and then you will better understand what's what and there will be fewer flaws.
How to glue wallpaper on the wall
If glue is applied to the cut piece as requested by the manufacturers, the smeared strip is folded so that the coated side is inside. To do this, fold the edges to the middle, then fold them several more times. The folds are not pressed. Keep it rounded. This is necessary so that all layers are soaked and the canvas fits well on the wall, and also adheres without bubbles.
If you need to apply glue to the wall, coat an area slightly larger than the width of the wallpaper. The area under the ceiling, in the corner and near the floor is smeared with a brush. Then the rules are general.
Take the cut off strip, go up the ladder. Bring the upper edge a few centimeters to the ceiling, then align one of the edges along the drawn "start" line. Since the wallpaper is glued end-to-end today, it does not matter which edge.
Strictly attaching the side edge to the line, with movements from this line to the other edge, glue the wallpaper in the area of \ u200b \ u200bthe ceiling. Then, gradually moving down, you go down a little lower.
Extra centimeters on the ceiling are cut off. It is more convenient to do this with a paper knife and a large spatula. Press the paper well against the corner by swiping your hand. Then apply a spatula. Draw along its edge with a knife blade.
Trimming under the ceiling and near the baseboard
When gluing the canvases, movements are made from the center of the strip to the side and slightly downward, expelling the trapped air to the edges. Previously, this was done with a rag, but it is better and faster to do it with a roller with an elastic attachment (it is usually yellow). When working with it, there are practically no bubbles. But if the wallpaper is structural, with an embossed pattern, you can crush it with a roller. Then take a wallpaper brush. It is wide and flat, with a stiff pile.
Wallpaper brush for quick stickers
When you get to the place where the strip is not yet glued, unfold the rest is dense and proceed according to the same scheme. First, expose the edge, then use a roller or rag to expel the air, achieving a flat surface.
The second strip is glued in exactly the same way, with the only difference that the canvas already on the wall will serve as a guide for gluing the edge. That is why it is important to glue it exactly, otherwise everyone else will also mow.
Secrets of pasting corners
The most difficult thing is to properly glue the wallpaper in the corners. But that's only as long as you don't know the secret. At first, you can try to make it simple. Wrap one of the parts on the adjacent wall by 1-2 cm, and cut the second at the corner.
It's easy to do, this method looks good. But on some wallpapers, this strip is very visible. There is another way for such a case. Glue the canvases on both sides of the corner so that they wrap at least a little on the other side (2-3 cm is enough). Press well so that they fit exactly. to the walls and the corner.
Then take a special cutter or a large spatula. Press it in the corner, cut the wallpaper with a sharp knife along its edge. It is necessary to cut both canvases at the same time, so that considerable effort may be required. To make a continuous cut, do not tear off the knife. Stopping, move the spatula, which you abut against the blade and then continue the cut.
Having cut off everything, remove both cut strips, and join the remaining canvases in the corner. If the wallpaper was well pressed before trimming, the match is perfect, without any discrepancies.
How to glue the wallpaper on the outer corners? In much the same way. In the first case, one of the stripes is wrapped around the corner by one or two centimeters (for thicker wallpapers, 2 cm is better, for thin ones - 1 cm is enough). The second strip is glued strictly along the corner. If this overlap is visible (usually on non-woven wallpaper), it will be necessary to cut along the entire strip. In this case, we wrap it up more and cut it vertically using the same spatula and knife. We remove the cut off, glue the joint.
Meter wallpaper in the corners is glued in the same way as narrower ones. It so happens that a narrow strip is needed in the corner, and the rest is cut off. If the wallpaper is without a pattern, it can be used somewhere, at least in another corner. With patterned canvases, it also sometimes turns out to be attached somewhere, but this is more difficult to do. Therefore, they take patterned ones with a decent margin: just for such cases.
How to glue vinyl wallpapers paper-based how to clear out imperfect corners in this video.
How to glue wallpaper near doors and windows
If the door or window is flush with the plane of the wall, problems usually do not arise. Wallpaper is trimmed along the door frame or along the edge of the platbands. The blade is cut at an angle of about 45 ° to the corner of the casing or frame. The cut parts are wrapped along the opening, folded over and then cut off with scissors or a knife. Smoother and faster with a knife and spatula.
How to glue near the door
More difficulties are caused by the option when it is necessary to paste over the slope of the door or window. Using paper wallpaper the principle is again simple: we glue the strip onto the slope, leading it 1 cm onto the wall. From above we glue a piece exactly along the cut of the window opening.
But with wallpaper on a non-woven fabric, this method will not work: "overlaps" are too visible. In this case, the strip is cut along the window opening with a small margin. Another fragment is glued on top with an overlap, cutting them exactly along the cut of the window opening. The glued piece is wrapped inward, onto the slope. Then they join as before.
It is difficult to explain in words. It turns out more accessible in the video. In it, by the way, there is a plot about the design of the wallpaper of arched openings.
How to make seams invisible
Care must be taken to ensure that the joints of the canvases are invisible during gluing. You need to connect the canvases so that there is no gap between them, but also so that they do not overlap one another even by a millimeter. A perfect match must be achieved.
Since ideally flat walls we meet, alas, infrequently, it turns out that the seam creeps up a little, then diverges. Your task is to move the canvases so that it becomes perfect and invisible. You can move the canvases with your hands - they can stretch and shrink slightly. This is how you achieve the desired match. If the resulting deficiency is too large and it is not possible to achieve anything with shifts, the strip is peeled off to this place and, having corrected as necessary, glued again. Sometimes, if the seam sticks out a little, rolling with a special tapered roller can help.
With this technique, it turns out that first the edge is glued, which joins, and then, from it, they begin to smooth the rest of the surface of the canvas. If you examined the seam and were satisfied with the result, take a clean rag and wipe it off any excess glue that might have come out during all these actions.
How to glue meter-long vinyl wallpaper on a non-woven base and how to make the joint invisible, see the video.
Eliminate disadvantages
With a lack of experience, it may happen that after or during drying, bubbles appear on the walls. You can remove them with simple actions. Take a large syringe, fill it with glue, pierce the bubble and inject some glue into it. Vinyl wallpaper, acrylic, paper - the upper part is unimportant. Actions vary depending on the basis. If the wallpaper is paper-based, wait five to seven minutes, if the wallpaper is non-woven, act immediately.
How to remove bubbles from wallpaper
The seams often come apart. Wallpaper may lag along a stream or baseboard. There are two ways to glue them. Use a brush and glue remnants or buy a special one for seams. It comes in a tube and is applied pointwise. And again, the procedure depends on the base. After wetting the paper one, we wait for a while, then glue it, making sure that the edges coincide.
In this article, you will learn how to glue wallpaper on the wall with your own hands. Before pasting the wallpaper, you need to carefully clean the room. The quality of future walls depends on the cleanliness of the room;
The outer parts of the switch, sockets (telephone wires, cables) must be removed in advance;
Dilute the glue.
- Measure from the corner a distance equal to the width of the wallpaper strip minus 1.5 cm and put a point here. Mark where the seams will go and move them slightly if necessary.
- Using a level with a ruler, draw a vertical line through this point. On the wall where the wallpaper pattern is to be aligned with the wallpaper on the ceiling, draw a vertical line from the first seam of the wallpaper glued to the ceiling.
- Pasting paper wallpaper read
- Cut and prepare your first wallpaper. First, flatten the top of the accordion-folded wallpaper. Stick the wallpaper in a vertical line so that the panel has a ceiling allowance of about 5 cm. Make sure that the pattern is not cut off at the ceiling line.
- Cut the top corner of the wallpaper so that the wallpaper in the corner does not wrinkle. Move the wallpaper with your palms until it snaps into place and its edge follows a vertical line. Smooth out the wallpaper with a smoothing brush.
- Spread out the bottom of the wallpaper and move the wallpaper with your palms so that its edge follows a vertical line. Smooth out the wallpaper with a smoothing brush. Check carefully for bubbles.
- Use a sharp upholstery knife with replaceable blades to cut off any excess. If the ceiling is already papered, peel back the edge of the wall wallpaper with a wide trowel, and then cut off the folded part with scissors so as not to damage the wallpaper glued to the ceiling. Rinse off any glue from the wallpaper.
- Hang the following pieces of wallpaper with butt edges so that the pattern matches. Leave the wallpaper to hang like this for about half an hour, and roll the seams with a roller lightly. On embossed or textile fabrics: tap the seams lightly with a smoothing brush.
- Disconnect power and hang wallpaper over outlets and switches. Make small diagonal cuts to expose the rosette. Cut the wallpaper around the edges of the electrical panel with a knife with replaceable blades.
- Trim and prepare a whole strip of wallpaper. While the wallpaper is soaking with glue, measure the distance from the edge of the previous glued panel to the corner at the top, middle and bottom of the wall. Add 1.5 cm to the largest measured value.
- Align the edges of the folded wallpaper strip. Measure from the edge at two points a distance equal to the value obtained in step 1. Place a ruler over these two points and cut the wallpaper with a sharp wallpaper knife.
- Apply wallpaper to the wall so that the pattern matches the pattern on the previously hung wallpaper. An allowance of about 5 cm should remain on the ceiling. With your palms, gently butt-joint the edges of the wallpaper panels. The sheet of wallpaper should slightly go over the non-fenced wall.
- Make small, narrow cuts in the corners at the top and bottom of the panel so that you can glue the wallpaper in the corner without wrinkling. Smooth out the wallpaper with a brush, then trim off any excess from the ceiling and baseboard.
- On a non-glued wall, measure from the corner and mark with a dot a distance equal to the width of the remaining strip of wallpaper plus 1.5 cm. Draw a vertical line in this place from the ceiling to the floor. Using the same method, cut a new strip of wallpaper of this width, starting at the leading edge of the new strip, so that the patterns match in the corner.
- Place the new cut strip on the wall with the cut edge at the corner and the uncut edge along the vertical line. Press the strip against the wall and smooth it out with a brush, then trim off any excess from the ceiling and baseboard.
- If you are gluing vinyl wallpaper, peel back the edge at the corner and apply vinyl glue along the seam. Press down the overlapping fabric evenly, wait half an hour, and then roll in the seams with a roller and wipe the area with a damp sponge.
Option. Protruding corners can usually be pasted over without cutting the wallpaper. If the corner is not vertical, follow the instructions for pasting the inner corners, but not 1.5 cm is added to the measured value obtained in step 1, but 2.5 cm.
Wall decoration is one of the final ones, but no less responsible for this. Choosing the right coating is a headache in itself, but applying it can be just as hassle. To obtain beautiful walls with a minimum of effort, use our advice. In this article we will tell you how to glue wallpaper with your own hands.
Preparing the walls
It is very important to properly prepare the walls before gluing the wallpaper. In other words, clean the surface, putty and primer.
Wallpaper is very moody in relation to the surface to be pasted: it must be perfectly smooth and even. Cracks, roughness and other imperfections will certainly affect appearance walls.
Remove the old wallpaper with hot water (in special cases, soapy water) and a brush. Remove dirt, grease, paint and loose plaster from the surface.
Now you can start puttingty, which will get rid of irregularities and cracks. It is performed in two stages.
The starting putty is applied with a layer of no more than 1.5 cm and is necessary if the walls are in a "killed" state: holes, large drops, deep cracks. If one layer is not enough, use a paint net to increase the strength of the next layers.
The finishing putty mixture finally completes the preparation of the walls: it makes the surface perfectly smooth, removing the smallest defects. Use special lighting so you don't miss them.
After that, proceed to the primer. Use a deep penetration primer. Apply it with a roller and allow to dry according to the instructions on the package. If the wall is in good condition, this step can be skipped, but experts advise not to. It will allow you to dust the walls and finally prepare them for wallpapering.
How to glue paper wallpaper
After the walls are ready, you can start gluing paper wallpaper with your own hands.
Before starting work, they also need to be prepared - cut off the edges and cut out the strips of the required length. Follow the pattern so that it matches at the joints. The length of the stripes is determined by the formula "room height + 10 cm for wallpaper with a small pattern or +20 for a large ornament".
By the way, the stock will allow you not to be trapped if the height of the ceiling in the room is different. When finished, cut off the excess or hide it behind the curb.
Get rid of the edges: remove the right edge from the strips to be glued to the right of the window opening, and the left from the rest.
If the wallpaper is thin, spread cold liquid glue from the middle to the edges and immediately glue the strip to the wall. Glue the first one especially carefully: it should be located strictly vertically.
Smooth it with a soft cloth (if the wallpaper is light, place a piece of paper under the cloth), avoiding bubbles. Remove excess glue quickly and carefully with damp foam rubber.
Thick wallpaper is glued to warm glue, applied in two passes: first let the strip soak, become wavy, and then apply a second layer. After that, the wallpaper should be smoothed out again - it means that they are ready for gluing.
The strip inscribed in the corner should go 3-4 cm onto the adjacent wall.
How to glue non-woven wallpaper
Gluing non-woven wallpaper, no matter how unexpected it sounds, it is better to start from the corner. Cut the roll into strips with a margin.
Following the instructions, prepare the glue and, sparingly, apply it to the wall with a roller. The strip should slide along the wall, but do not allow strong drips to form.
Non-woven wallpaper can only be glued end-to-end: even a small seam will be clearly visible. Roll the strip from top to bottom and smooth from the middle to the edges. Take your time, let all wrinkles disappear. Remove excess glue with a sponge.
How to glue vinyl wallpaper
Consider gluing vinyl wallpaper. Cut the roll into strips with a margin using the already familiar formula. Apply the adhesive according to the instructions on the roll. It is usually applied to the wall, but sometimes it is necessary to lubricate the strip itself.
Stick them back to back, as the wallpaper is quite thick and the overlap will be conspicuous. With the strip against the wall, smooth the surface with a rubber roller from the middle to the edges. Remove excess glue with a cloth.
We hope our instructions for the correct wallpapering will help you cope with the wall decoration.
Photo of the wallpapering process
Greetings, dear readers of our blog "Do it yourself with us."
Continuing the theme of the overhaul of the apartment today, I want to describe in detail the process of how to properly glue wallpaper on the walls with my own hands. Where should you start? What nuances and features to take into account in the work? What issues should you pay special attention to? It would seem that the question is not very difficult, but how many misunderstandings, disputes and disagreements arise when we start the process itself.
Preparing the walls
First, let me congratulate you! How with what? With the fact that if you are interested in the issue of wallpapering, then the dirtiest, hardest work in the repair has already been completed. And you did it !!! Hundreds of kilometers reeled in shopping trips in search of wallpaper are already behind us. And here they are, the most beautiful in the world, coiled up in tight rolls, neatly against the wall!
But do not rush, you have everything ready, and someone only needs to re-paste the wallpaper, without affecting everything else. Therefore, we begin the process by removing all the old wallpaper. To do this, carefully tear them off the wall, if the glue on which they stick is weak, the work will go like clockwork, but if the wallpaper is glued well, you will have to work hard.
Correct gluing of wallpaper - scheme
If old ordinary paper wallpaper is poorly removed, then we moisten it with water, simply rolling it up with a wet roller or brush. Leave it on for 10-15 minutes and then carefully remove it. Well, the most difficult case is when the wallpaper is covered on top with a waterproof film, the so-called "washable" wallpaper. Only a mechanical method of removal will help here - with a spatula. We remove them by prying with a spatula, trying to touch the wall as little as possible.
The wallpaper has been removed, it is necessary to remove all the plaster, which does not hold well and practically falls out by itself, to cut the cracked and falling out seams. All emerging places of depressions, depressions and irregularities must be putty and subsequently primed after cleaning.
If you decide to level your walls, then after applying the finishing layer, do not forget to prime it. It is very important! Otherwise, when wallpapering, the walls will dust and crumble, which will lead to poor adhesion of the wallpaper to the wall. Worse, the plaster can begin to roll off when the glue is applied to the wall. For this, use special mixtures sold in stores. And if you want to save money, you can use simple PVA glue, 2 glasses of glue per bucket of water (from personal experience, excellent primer).
The whole point of preparation comes down to making the walls as smooth and even as possible. Take the time to inspect your walls. Remove all adhering specks and other small debris, since after the wallpaper is pasted, they will appear and will be ugly. You should be especially careful in this regard when sticking thin wallpaper.
Walls must be strong, clean and dry.
We dilute the glue in accordance with the instructions on the package. I used Quelyd Special Vinyl glue for vinyl and textile wallpapers.
It is divorced: 1 pack for 4-4.5 liters of water and is designed for 6 rolls. For dilution, we use a suitable container, we measure out the required amount of liquid into it and, stirring continuously, we introduce dry glue.
We let it disperse a little, for 15 minutes, then stir it well again and you can glue the wallpaper.
Beautifully gluing wallpaperon a straight wall in any room of the apartment
Step 1... We close all windows and doors to prevent drafts.
Step 2... We calculate how many vertical stripes we will fit on one wall. To do this, measure the length of the wall and divide the resulting size by the width of the wallpaper.
My wall length was 3.7 m. (3700 mm.), And the width of the wallpaper was 0.54 m. (540 mm.) Total 3700/540 = 6.85. Thus, 6 whole strips and one with an undercut were placed on my wall.
We cut 7 strips to the size of the room height plus 50 mm. for trimming from the top and bottom.
Similar calculations can be made for the other three walls and the wallpaper can be cut to the entire room at once.
Step 3... We mark the vertical line for the correct orientation of the first strip.
We retreat from the edge of the wall (I walked from the aisle, you may have from the corner) 500 mm (the distance is slightly less than the width of the strip, so that later, if the corner of the room is a little "overwhelmed", you could trim the first strip) and set a mark. To mark the line of verticality of the stickers of the stripes, we use a plumb line (you can simply use a thread with a load attached to it) or a building level.
We apply a plumb line to the wall and align it with our mark made earlier. Mark out a vertical line and connect the points with a straight line. Thus, we got a line from which we will begin to glue the second strip. We do not touch the first strip (at the aisles or in the corners) yet, we leave the extreme strips of one wall for last. I used the same markup technology with.
Step 4... Apply glue to the wall to the width of the strip and to the strip of wallpaper, evenly distributing it over the surface with a brush or roller.
Step 5... We glue 1 strip (or rather, from the edge of the wall or corner, it will be the second for us, but we do not glue the first one yet). To do this, starting from the top, carefully apply the strip to the wall. We combine the edge of the strip with the drawn line of verticality and, using a wide roller, carefully roll the strip against the wall, squeezing out the air trapped between the wall and the strip.
Step 6... We mark the extra strip length.
We tear off the strip a little from the wall and carefully cut off the excess.
This operation can be done without tearing off the strip, but using a clerical knife, cut off the excess. In the end, we get this picture.
In the future, the joint between the wall and the floor will be closed with a plinth. How to install a plastic skirting board with your own hands can be read in detail.
Step 7... We repeat all the procedures for applying glue to the wallpaper and wall, and glue the second strip. Only now we join the edge of the strip to the already glued first strip.
Sometimes there are situations that the ceiling is not brought out perfectly evenly, you have to cut the top of the strip a little. To do this, we release the glued strip slightly upward, creating an overlap on the ceiling.
Using a roller, we roll the strip, and using a clerical knife or scissors, cut off the excess wallpaper so that the upper edge of the strip is exactly in the corner.
Cut off the excess at the bottom, finally roll up the glued strip, rolling it with a wide roller with movements from top to bottom and towards the edge of the strip, as if drawing a Christmas tree with a trunk in the middle of the strip. Using a narrow roller, roll the seam between the strips and the upper and lower parts of the strip adjacent to the ceiling and floor.
We get this picture.
Step 8... Similarly, we glue all whole strips to the end of the wall.
Step-by-step instructions for the correct work with wallpaper
Video: how to stick vinyl wallpaper yourself
Thanks to everyone who read the article to the end. I draw your attention to the fact that here I completely described the whole process of how to glue the wallpaper with my own hands in accordance with my experience and ideas of this process. Surely there are people who have devoted more time to this, have tremendous experience and professional skills. Please write about your little tricks, secrets and features of how to glue the wallpaper correctly in the comments. Help people who want to gain knowledge in this matter. After all, as they say, the more you give in this life, the more you get in return.
Best regards, Vladislav Ponomarev.
Pasting walls with wallpaper with your own hands, and how to glue wallpaper correctly
Well, starting the topic of wallpapering, we immediately come across such a concept as "oxymoron" (a combination of the incompatible) - moreover, a concept that is widespread and does not cause any objections. Think about it: wallpapering or wallpapering. The name of the material comes from the fastening technique - to beat up - and suddenly pasting. But indeed, not so long ago, the wallpaper was made of cloth and was not glued, but nailed. We will not teach you how to nail wallpaper, but we will certainly teach you how to glue wallpaper correctly!
7. Questions about gluing wallpaper on the walls.
It is quite simple to glue the wallpaper, having the necessary information, hands and head. We hope wallpapering the walls will give you more than experience renovation works, but also give positive emotions. And we think that you will not be able to glue the wallpaper with your own hands much worse, and maybe even better, than with professional craftsmen. After all, you are also a master, albeit at home. If you do not have wallpaper yet, we recommend buying wallpaper from Leroy. the prices are among the lowest and the selection is amazing!
Wallpapering begins with surface preparation. And if you want a finish that is classified as “high quality,” this is the stage where you will have to put in the best effort. If the base is made of gypsum plasterboard (gypsum plasterboards) - its quality, as a rule, is already good enough - it is only worth puttingtying the plasterboard walls. If the wallpaper is to be glued to ordinary walls, the surface is pre-cleaned, dust-free, primed and then plastering compounds (for example, "rotband") brought to the required smoothness. We discussed all this in detail in the materials on leveling walls. priming and, of course, puttying.
By the way, SNiPs (Building Norms and Rules) of the Soviet era for high-quality finishing required that when a two-meter rail was applied anywhere on the surface, the deviations were no more than one and a half millimeters in height or depth and in no more than two places. No less stringent requirements were for compliance with the verticality of elements, right angles, etc.
Everything said in the previous paragraph is not idle verbiage. If the surface is not perfectly flat, then it will not be easy to stick the wallpaper with high quality, and the beauty will no longer be the same. This is not nit-picking and not signs of backward shabashniki, it's just that the paper does not evenly stick to a curved surface. It is possible to partially correct the flaws in the preparation, but more on that below.
Many have heard that wallpaper should be glued from the window. This is not entirely true. More precisely, not at all. Pasting starts from the light source most used during the day. Now this is much less relevant, but twenty years ago, when most of the wallpaper was glued with an overlap, the illuminated edge of the seam was less noticeable.
It really makes sense to glue wallpaper from a light source if the walls are uneven. In this case, the panels will in some places "creep" on top of each other and give a noticeable seam. Especially when pasting thick wallpaper with a pronounced embossed pattern. Therefore, whenever possible, the wallpaper must be fitted exactly "end-to-end". Wallpaper well-soaked with glue can be stretched a couple of millimeters, sometimes this is enough to prevent a seam. But, again, without high-quality surface preparation good quality coverage cannot be achieved by any tricks.
Wall marking for wallpapering
The hardest part is the markup. There are usually four interior corners in rooms. We begin to glue from the one closest to the window (well, or a light source, which, again, is not necessary if the wallpaper is in the joint), having previously checked its verticality. For greater clarity, you can step back from the corner a centimeter - one and a half, and on the wall from which we start pasting, draw a vertical line with a pencil using a level, a plumb line and a long rail. This line will immediately show you where the angle is from the vertical. Or it will confirm its ideal verticality, which, however, is unlikely.
By the way, the inner corner - that is, the corner between the two walls of the room - is called husk in our way, in construction. Outside corner - for example, the angle between the wall and the window slope is a mustache.
We mark a point on the angle line in the place where it is most distant from our drawn vertical, and, using the building level, draw a horizontal line from this point, on which we lay off fifty-three centimeters. Fifty-three, this is if you use ordinary wallpaper with a width of 53 cm (yes, the width of a roll of wallpaper is not 50, namely 53 cm): paper, washable with a vinyl covering, etc. If the wallpaper has a different width, respectively, it and put off.
Putting aside 53 cm we get one more point. Using a level or a plumb line, draw a vertical through it along the entire height of the wall. Hooray! You have received the vertical border of the first sheet of our wallpaper!
Further - it is easier. Having decided where the wallpaper will end in relation to the ceiling and floor (usually the bottom of the wallpaper is limited by the baseboard, and the top - by the owner's taste), we beat off horizontal lines at these levels. The distance between them will give you the length of the panels. The basic markup is complete!
Wallpaper cutting and glue application
Then comes the time for cutting and gluing the panels. Unwind the roll on the floor and, having measured the required length of the panel, cut it off. Then we take the next roll and roll it out next to the first sheet, adjusting the pattern, and cut it along the length of the first sheet. In the same way, we cut five to six canvases. The number of strips should be calculated in such a way that the last strip does not lie on the next corner (husk) of the room.
A roll of wallpaper has a length of over ten meters. Newbies in upholstery usually believe that at least four panels will turn out from a roll, which will cover two meters of the wall. Alas! Do not flatter yourself. Three panels come out of the roll, unless the wallpaper pattern makes the fit unnecessary. From experience: usually, to match the pattern, the stripes have to be shifted relative to each other by 10-25 cm. That is, very rarely the last piece from the roll will have a length sufficient for use.
In the best case, the last piece will be about two meters long. But there is good information: in the standard room there are also windows and doors, and this is where the rest of the rolls are used.
Put the cut strips on top of each other and grease with glue. It is convenient to apply the glue with a paint roller with medium length pile or with a brush - with a brush. When applying glue, the principle “there is never too much glue” is applied. Of course, without fanaticism! The strip should be oiled thoroughly so that not a single dry piece remains. Recently, colored adhesives have appeared that fade upon drying. A very convenient thing: you can see where it has already been missed and where it has not.
Having smeared the strip with glue, fold it like an "accordion".
Video: Sticking wide wallpapers of two types on the walls in the kitchen
The beginning of gluing wallpaper with your own hands
We turn over the pack of our "accordions" so that the first one is on top. We are waiting for about five minutes. We take the first page, stand on a chair, stool, step-ladder. Using the figure, we determine where the top of the strip is, we take the strip with two fingers on each side, not reaching five centimeters to the top (if taken by the very edge, the wet paper can tear), so as to capture only one layer. Then we raise the folded strip to the very ceiling and, gently shaking it, let it unfold to its full length. We carefully approach the plane of the wall and apply it to the upper horizontal line. In this case, the side cut of the strip is combined with the vertical line (the same one that is 53 cm). We get off the stool, chair, step-ladder. We achieve the coincidence of the strip with the vertical line along the entire length and gently smooth it.
Smoothing should be done with a special plastic spatula, not with a rag or hand. Better to use a rubber roller. Smoothing the strip, we move the spatula from top to bottom and at the same time from the center to the sides - a kind of "herringbone". You do not need to press hard so as not to damage the wallpaper. The main task of ironing is to remove trapped air from under the paper and smooth out large wrinkles. When dry, the wallpaper shrinks and stretches, while minor bruises disappear.
Rags, however, are also needed, and, certainly, not one, but three - four. And so that you are always there - wipe your hands, floor from glue, putty knife, etc.
Continuation and completion of wallpapering the walls with your own hands
The first page is the most difficult. From the side of the husk (inner corner), iron it, carefully pressing it into the corner. If the corner is heavily overwhelmed, and the strip enters the adjoining wall by more than a centimeter, it is necessary to make cuts along the overlapping part from the edge of the strip to the corner line. The stronger the overlap, the more frequent the cuts. Criterion: the strip should not wrinkle when pressed with a spatula.
There is no need to worry about the quality of the cuts (and it will be disgusting: scissors cut wet paper very poorly). The strip with which you start pasting the perpendicular wall will cover the flaws of the previous one.
To stick the next strip, you do not need to beat off the vertical line: the previously glued strip is used as a template. As already mentioned above, when gluing, the strips are stretched so that their edges are tightly pressed against each other, but do not overlap each other - this will have to be done if the base has noticeable bulges and depressions - that is, we do “end-to-end”.
The edges of the wallpaper are a moody moment. They often do not adhere well and come off when dry, forming noticeable cracks. To eliminate this blemish, there are several subtleties: when lubricating, the glue is applied from the middle of the panel to its edges, paying special attention to the edges. In addition, the surface must be primed before gluing the wallpaper. This can be done both with wallpaper glue (in this case, it is diluted a little more liquid), and with a deep penetration primer. Sometimes, when gluing expensive high-quality wallpaper, their joints are pre-glued with a tape of thin paper. And, finally, the last line of the fight against marriage at the edges: after gluing five to seven panels, once again thoroughly coat the edges with glue using a thin brush.
Questions about gluing wallpaper on walls
In conclusion, about pasting walls with wallpaper
Basically, we tracked the most important points of pasting. Common sense and logic will tell you the nuances. Well, and also, the rule of the landing is to get involved in a battle, and then it will be visible! Great success, ask. if something is not clear! Also on the site there is information about aligning the walls. puttying the walls. wallpapering the ceiling. about removing old wallpaper and much more.
Based on materials from the site: http://chonemuzhik.ru
How to properly glue the wallpaper on the walls. Surface preparation for wallpaper.
Before gluing the wallpaper, you need to prepare the surface, free up space from excess debris and old wallpaper, if any. If you are not a professional in the field of wallpapering, then first look through the books, videos, the necessary literature and then you can proceed directly to the work of wallpapering.
When removing old wallpaper, pre-wet it with soapy water, wait until it softens. Then apply a metal trowel and remove the old wallpaper. If the wallpaper is not all soft and does not lend itself to quick removal, then take it, wet a rag with warm water and saturate the walls again.
You can also use an iron and iron it through a wet cloth.
The complexity of surface preparation depends on the type of wallpaper and on the service life of the last repair and putty on the walls. If the repair has been done for a long time, then you will not be able to prepare the surface as quickly as you would like. For example, if your walls are painted before wallpapering oil paint or enamel, then before gluing, use sandpaper.
You can easily remove the whitewash with a regular sponge and warm water, provided that the water changes frequently. Carefully remove all defects and cracks in the wall using wallpaper glue and a primer. Plastered walls should be kept for at least six weeks.
After that, the flat surface must be primed with a special compound or glue. When you start gluing wallpaper, you must first ensure that the surface of the wall is flat, clean and dry.
Choosing the right wallpaper glue.
Care should be taken when choosing an adhesive.
You should know which company to choose and what types of wallpaper to glue. At the right choice glue, you will prevent the risk of wallpaper peeling, it is important that the wallpaper is held firmly and for a long time. Consider the types of adhesives, what they are and what quality manufacturers offer. When choosing a glue, pay attention to what kind of wallpaper it is suitable for, usually it is written on the box for what types of wallpaper this or some other glue is used.
There is nowadays a universal glue that is suitable for almost all wallpaper.
There can also be a custom glue designed for vinyl or non-woven wallpaper. Some of the instructions on the box indicate that the glue is suitable for either light or heavy wallpaper.
The only difference is that these types differ in the composition of the glue and each manufacturer guarantees its quality, that the color does not change during application and guarantees its reliability. There is a household glue that can contain an indicator, it is necessary to color the water, the resulting solution, it dries quickly and discolors, which gives it a tremendous advantage over other types of adhesives.
This glue is easier to apply to the wallpaper, especially when it comes to the edges.
A kind of wallpaper.
Today shops and markets offer a wide range of wallpapers.
Each buyer or client will be able to choose what suits him best, the palette of colors is very diverse, even a picky buyer will find what suits him.
Wallpapers are of the following types: paper, vinyl, non-woven, acrylic, textile, metallized, cork, glass wallpaper, structural, liquid and recently gained popularity among young people.
The type of wallpaper will depend on what room it is intended for.
It will be either an apartment or an office space. For an apartment, paper, non-woven and vinyl wallpapers are well suited. They have a guarantee for about 10 years, they will not turn yellow and will last long enough, everything will also depend on the temperature in the room and if the neighbors do not flood you, then with the right choice and gluing, the result is obvious. Wall murals will allow you to stand out from others, you can choose your own portrait or any other drawing. Anything, lick you like it.
Preparing a set of tools for wallpapering.
At first glance, it seemed like there was nothing special about wallpapering that you couldn't stick it on, but before proceeding, you should have the following set of tools. These include: a painting or pressing spatula, a special brush, scissors, a tape measure, a glue brush, a special roller for smoothing seams.
For example, using a paint spatula, you will remove the remainder of the paint from the old wallpaper, under which the putty will directly be applied. Using a brush, you will dip in glue and apply the resulting composition to the wallpaper. A tape measure will allow you to measure the distance and understand how many rolls you need to glue the wallpaper.
With a roller, you will align the walls so that everything is even and smooth. In the presence of all necessary tools, you can easily glue the wallpaper yourself at home.
Wallpaper gluing in the apartment and in the house and how to glue the wallpaper correctly.
So, all the walls are plastered and leveled, now you can safely start gluing the wallpaper.
You have already measured everything and decided how many rolls of wallpaper you need, what type of glue and what kind of wallpaper you will use.
To begin with, you should dilute the glue, following strictly the instructions indicated on the box itself.
Usually, the glue is poured into warm water, stirring constantly until the resulting consistency. The amount of water and temperature must be taken into account in order to use the adhesive correctly. We apply glue to the seamy side of the wallpaper, depending on the types of wallpaper, it will be possible to apply glue with a brush to the wall, where the wallpaper itself will be glued directly.
Before gluing, the wallpaper must be kept for 5 minutes and only then glued. The most optimal temperature for wallpaper is about 20 ° C. Repairs that are done in a private house will allow you to control the entire situation that occurs when gluing wallpaper. You control the temperature and humidity of the air, while using the heater, if in winter. And by airing the room.
There are also no restrictions in the apartment, but it is better that the room be prepared in advance for the work of wallpapering and so that nothing superfluous interferes. A lower temperature will lead to the fact that it will take longer to dry, and at a higher temperature, peeling of the sheets at the joints and the appearance of bubbles can occur. All canvases before work are best cut into the necessary pieces and applied to the wall surface with the side where the glue was applied.
Smooth out all wrinkles that appear with a wallpaper brush. It is best to start gluing from the window, all the joints of the wallpaper and patterns must match. Smooth all edges with a roller. Remove the remaining pieces with scissors.
So, do the work on all the rolls, wait a while and, if necessary, go over all the wallpaper again and smooth it out, slightly pressing.
It is quite difficult to evenly glue all the corners and get to those places where wallpapering is required.
How to glue wallpaper
Using a ruler, measure the distance and cut out the desired piece. All gluing of the corners should be done only after applying the main wallpaper, giving them elegance and beauty. An inaccessible place can become the inside of the door, where you need to stick it, but so that everything looks like without unnecessary protruding pieces.
If time has passed, the wallpaper has peeled off, then more glue should be applied and hold, pressing the glue to the surface that is glued.
How to glue the wallpaper correctly!
The most common type of wall decoration is wallpapering. This is due to the huge variety of colors and patterns of wallpaper, as well as the ease of performing wall decoration work. Pasting wallpaper is a simple process, it can be done independently without the help of specialists.
Wallpaper selection
Before starting work, you need to decide on the required amount of material. Another fifteen percent is added to the calculated area of the glued walls.
The total number of rolls should always be rounded up, but it is better to keep one roll “in reserve”.
Now you need to figure out the color and material of the wallpaper.
There are several types from which you can choose the most suitable option.
- The most common wallpaper is paper. They are notable for their low cost, however, the ingress of a small volume of liquid leads to a loss of the relief of the drawings.
- The main advantage liquid wallpaper consists in their immunity to light and the absence of the need for special care for them.
- Washable wallpapers are characterized by their ability to retain moisture.
This material is especially good for the bathroom and kitchen.
- Feature of velor wallpaper is soft and good ability to keep warm.
However, they must be systematically vacuum cleaned.
- Polymeric wallpaper is characterized by durability, water resistance and an insignificant degree of contamination.
It is better to give preference to wallpaper of large width, since the gluing process will go faster and the number of joints will be smaller.
It should also be borne in mind that the horizontal pattern makes the room optically wider, and the vertical one visually raises the ceiling. When buying wallpaper, make sure that all the rolls are the same.
Preparatory work
Before starting work, you need to clean the walls of old wallpaper and level them using plaster, primer or other compounds.
Often, wallpaper glue is used as a primer, which is diluted with plenty of water for this purpose. As a rule, the mixing proportions for gluing and for primer are indicated on packages with glue.
Wallpaper gluing
After all preparatory work and having prepared the glue, you can start decorating the walls with wallpaper.
Make sure that there are no drafts in the room, as they can cause strips of material to come off. Since the pasting of the walls was carried out with an overlap, the work should have begun from the window. Now the wallpaper is glued end-to-end, so it doesn't matter where to start work from.
You can cut the wallpaper, the application of which does not require adjusting the pattern, to size.
In this case, it is necessary to take into account the presence doorways... If the pattern still needs to be selected, then you need to leave an allowance of one centimeter on each side. Excess material will be cut off after gluing.
Sticking can be done from the window.
Previously, a vertical line is drawn on the wall along a plumb line. The distance to the corner should be equal to the width of the wallpaper strip plus one centimeter left to overlap the adjacent wall.
We grease the strip with glue, leave it for a while for better impregnation.
For paper wallpaper, five minutes will be enough, for vinyl - eight, textile - ten. After that, we apply glue to the wall and apply a strip along the drawn line. Then you need to smooth out the glued strip with a roller. If wrinkles are formed, you need to tear off the wallpaper and glue them again.
Excess glue is wiped off with a wet cloth and the protruding parts of the glued strip are cut off.
Further registration takes place in the same way. The strips are attached end-to-end, after which they are carried out with a roller.
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Often, after a while, our renovation ceases to look as attractive as at the very beginning.
Wallpaper gluing: technology for each type, diagram, calculation table
Plaster is sprinkled, wallpaper is peeled off in places. But this is not a reason to start new renovation, you can simply fix the old one and extend its life for several more years.
Why does wallpaper lag behind the wall?
Most often, the reason is inaccurate adherence to the gluing instructions.
This is especially true for heavy types of wallpaper that require special glue and additional materials, for example, paper strips at the joints.
Also, the reason may lie in insufficient quality surface preparation or uneven application of glue.
The removal of wallpaper is sometimes explained by the dampness of the room. In bathrooms and kitchens, wallpaper peels off frequently and thickly. And what to do if the wallpaper has come off and we are not planning any repairs yet?
How to glue loose wallpaper?
Renovating wallpaper seams on time can save time and money.
In doing so, it is important to choose the right glue and tools. So, how to glue the unsticked wallpaper: you need a special glue, it is preferable to choose a well-known manufacturer. You will also need a small roller specifically for rolling the joints.
Remove the protruding glue with a damp sponge. If you glue PVA, dry the seams additionally with a hairdryer and then roll again.
Let the wallpaper dry, while avoiding drafts.
The mini-renovation is over!