Materials for self-finishing there are many facades. However, cladding a house with siding with your own hands stands out among them for its cheapness and extreme ease of installation. Most often, home craftsmen choose vinyl facade panels for such a cladding of their cottage, the installation technology of which we will consider in detail in this article.
Components and start of work
To properly sheathe a house with siding from the street, you must strictly follow the manufacturer's instructions. Most of the claims to the do-it-yourself PVC cladding then arise precisely because of non-observance of the banal rules for its installation.
There are several types of vinyl sheathing planks:
Types of components
Starting - starting rail, the first lowest element;
The main panel is the basic segment of the house covering with siding;
Finish - the uppermost lane;
Connecting (docking) - H-profile for splicing short panels;
Suspended - low tide that protects the windows and basement of the house from precipitation;
Near-window (wide J-profile) - platband for decorating slopes;
Corner (outer and inner) - for closing the ends of siding panels in corner joints;
Soffit - ceiling panel for sewing cornices and gables of houses;
J-trim - Narrow, versatile J-profile.
The variety of plank shapes only simplifies self-paneling. There is a type-setting element for every corner and ledge of the house, you just need to correctly calculate the required number.
Calculation of the cladding material and the necessary tools
To calculate consumables, you need to calculate the area of the facade sheathed with siding, and then divide it by the quadrature of the selected panels. In this case, it is necessary to take into account the dimensions of the windows with doors that the house has, removing them from the calculations. You also need to take a 10% margin for fit, so that everything can be finished without problems and restrictions.
To decorate a house with siding, you will need the following set of tools:
Level and plumb line;
Ladder;
Screwdriver;
Scissors and a hacksaw for metal.
If the walls of the cottage are built of concrete or brick, then you will need a drill to drill holes for the dowels of the sheathing. It will not hurt when doing self-cladding siding at home and grinder. It will facilitate and speed up the cutting of panels.
House insulation and waterproofing
Before you start cladding the house, you need to clean the walls and seal the cracks in them. Under siding old paint and the plaster will not be visible, but it is better to get rid of them. If the house is made of wood or aerated concrete blocks, then a vapor-permeable waterproofing film must be fixed on it under the sheathing of the sheathing.
The insulation is laid between the guides of the frame, which is stuffed under the considered finishing material for the facade of a private house. Next, another layer of waterproofing is laid on top of it. Moreover, everything is done so that an air cushion remains between the membrane and the heat insulator on the walls of the house.
DIY siding installation
To attach vinyl panels to the crate, you can take:
Screws (self-tapping screws) with a diameter of 3.5-4 mm
Nails with a leg section of 3 mm and a head from 8 mm
Their consumption when decorating a house with siding is calculated based on the step between these hardware on the strips of 30 cm. Fasteners in a wooden lath or metal frame of the frame should be at least 20 mm. At the same time, a space of 1 mm should be left between its cap and the PVC clapboard. If this is not done, then the vinyl cladding of the house will warp and go in waves when the temperature outside changes.
Collecting lathing for cladding a house with siding
The lathing is made vertical or horizontal with a distance between the strips (profiles) of 30–40 cm. These guides must be placed across the main vinyl planks. But there should be no crossbeams between them by definition. It is necessary to sheathe the house with siding with your own hands so that there is space under the panels for natural circulation air.
To securely fasten the PVC cladding around the openings and along the corners of the building, additional bearing rails are installed. They are also needed in places where lamps and gutters are hung on walls. It is required to securely fix not only the facade panels for the exterior decoration of the house, but also various decorative elements on them.
House lathing
Installing the starting bar
The starting bar is fixed on the walls first. To do this, a rope is pulled around the house on studs at a height of 3-4 cm from the lower edge of the sheathing to be mounted. Starting profiles are not fastened along the perimeter of the building, but at intervals of 5–6 mm in case of their thermal expansion.
Installation of low tide and starting bar. Ebb tides are installed from the corner of the house. The starting profile is mounted 30-40 mm above the ebb bar.
When cladding houses with siding, it is extremely important to fix the starting bar correctly and evenly. It serves as the basis for the entire structure of the external cladding. It is on it that the clarity of the geometric lines and the general appearance of the siding decoration of a private house depend.
Installation of inner and outer corners
Next, external and internal corners are attached, installed at the joints of two walls. Their lower edge should be located just below the starting bar, already fixed to the house. The first self-tapping screw is screwed into the uppermost hole for the fasteners so that the corner hangs on it.
The outer and inner corners are set so that the bottom edge is 4-6 mm below the starting profile, and the upper part is 1-3 mm below the soffit or cornice
Then the corner is aligned strictly vertically. The rest of the self-tapping screws are screwed down in the middle of the holes in 30 cm increments and not all the way to the stop. This is the only way the PVC sheathing of the house will be able to "breathe" and not be deformed.
Corner elements are overlapped. At the top bar, the inner side edges are cut from the bottom by 25 mm. On the lower corner, it is wound by 20 mm, which leaves a gap of 5 mm for thermal expansion.
Installation of planks on door and window openings
The next stage is covering the openings of the house for windows and doors with a platband. In order for everything to turn out beautifully in the end, you have to work hard here. In the upper horizontal J-profiles, you will have to make cuts in the sides with the bend of the cut off part of the panel, and in the lower ones, make a cut angled at 45 degrees.
We cut the near-window profile
Vertical planks are cut at the top "at an angle", and at the bottom they are cut out with a similar bend in the side. The purpose of all these manipulations is not just to beautifully sheathe the house with siding, but to dock the platbands so that water cannot seep into the joints anywhere.
Installing the main panels
With the main planks, everything is much easier. The first of them only needs to be inserted into the starting profile, and then fixed on the crate. The rest will follow one after the other. It is the ease of installation of the main panels that allows you to decorate the house with siding with your own hands in just a day.
In case of lack of siding length, we join several strips through the H-profile. To do this, do not forget to install and fix the connecting H-profile in advance. The distance from the bottom and top is the same as the outer or inner corner.
Installation starts from the starting profile and ends with a finishing profile or molding
Do not forget to make "hooks" at the top of the panel
A finishing strip is attached to the upper edge of the wind board on "hooks" similar to the molding
Soffits are installed between the molding and the J-bevel
The strips should be fixed from the middle to the edges, placing the screws strictly in the middle of the holes on the edge. The finishing touch of the vinyl cladding of houses is the installation of the finishing panel with the insertion of the uppermost main PVC strip into it.
What to consider in order to properly sheathe a house with siding
The technology of work is such that the cladding of houses can be done all year round. But at sub-zero temperatures, the siding should be taken out into the street in advance so that the material is acclimatized.
If the house is old, then there should be no problems with cladding with vinyl panels. But the new building must be allowed to completely settle, otherwise the facade decor will necessarily be deformed. No gaps will help in this situation.
Numerous photos of siding houses are pleasing to the eye. So that everything goes no worse with self-installation, it is extremely important to follow the installation instructions and leave gaps where necessary to compensate for the expansion of the material when heated under the sun.
Temperature gap table
When installing vinyl siding, consider the ambient temperature in the table below. For example, if you are installing at a temperature of +10 degrees, then the 3.6 m long main strip may lengthen by 8 mm in warmer weather, and shrink by 12 mm in colder weather.
Siding is a popular material for facade cladding. The practical homeowner chooses this type of exterior wall decoration. Siding has a lot of undeniable advantages. Among them are the presentable appearance of the panels and the ease of their installation.
The market offers two types of siding: vinyl and metal. There are no fundamental differences in the installation of these materials. But there is a significant difference in performance.
Vinyl much more susceptible to ambient temperature. When heated, it expands; when cooled, it contracts. This feature is taken into account in the production technology of the panels: they are designed in such a way that during installation, the damper gap necessary to compensate for the expansion and contraction of the lamellas remains.
Vinyl siding has significantly lower frost resistance than metal siding. Therefore, with prolonged exposure to low temperatures, it becomes brittle. This feature of vinyl should be considered for those homeowners who live in regions with harsh climates. If you hit the fragile frozen vinyl lamella, cracks will certainly appear on it.
Unlike metal, plastic panels do not have fire resistance. But they can be used as additional insulation of the facade.
V last years a modernized version of vinyl siding has appeared, which is more resistant to ultraviolet radiation (does not lose its color saturation from sunlight) and has a lower coefficient of thermal expansion. This is a "round log" siding. It looks more attractive than the flat panels that sheath the kiosks and production buildings with. Therefore, it is able to make the facade of a residential building cozy and effective.
Differs in a wide range of colors, but is much less often used for cladding private houses.
There are several reasons for this:
- it has the property of heating up in the cold, thereby reducing the thermal protection of the walls;
- during the rain, there are quite loud sounds characteristic of metal.
In order for the cladding wooden house vinyl or metal siding was made with the highest quality, at the same time with the panels they acquire additional elements that are required for finishing window and doorways, gables, slopes, These are elements such as:
- starting and finishing bar;
- spotlights;
- J and H profile;
- external and internal corners.
For cladding a wooden house with siding, it makes no sense to purchase a full set of additional elements. In choosing their type and quantity, they are guided by the architectural and design features of the building. But starting and finishing bars are always required, no matter what. The set of panels begins with the installation of the starting bar and ends with the installation of the finish.
Siding prices
The appearance of the house cladding depends on how well the lathing will be built. A frame assembled according to all the rules is able to hide any flaws and irregularities in the walls and gables of the building. The lathing is the base to which the canvases of the finishing material are attached.
When installing metal and vinyl lamellas, two types of frames are used:
- from wooden blocks;
- from metal profile.
Any of them is suitable for installing cladding material on wooden walls. A correctly installed frame allows you to lay any of the modern heat insulators on the walls. The crate also provides the ventilation gap required to eliminate excess moisture.
Installation of the frame is not necessary if the walls of the wooden house are perfectly flat. On such a surface, you can safely attach siding without using a structure of additional supports.
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Installation rules for a metal frame
For the device of this type of lathing, you will need a metal profile, which is used for the device of plasterboard walls, ceilings and partitions. These are PN 28x27 and PP 60x27. These planks will be attached to the wall of the house using special hangers, which the craftsmen call "peshki".
If you need to mount a two-tier metal carcass, assuming the presence of a ledge under the roof or in the upper part of the wall, special fasteners "crabs" are used to connect the metal strips. They are designed for firm joining of vertical and horizontal strips. Self-tapping screws SMM 3.5x51, which experts call "seeds", are used as fasteners.
Stages of installation of a metal lathing
Step 1: drawing up a lathing diagram
At this stage of work, it is necessary to decide what step between the racks of the crate will be optimal. This distance depends on what material is chosen for wall insulation. If it is rock wool in rolls, then the step between the frame racks should be 3-4 cm less than the width of the canvas. This will allow you to lay the insulation in the openings between the racks of the sheathing so that there are no gaps between its canvases.
Step 2: markup
The markings corresponding to the scheme are applied to the wall. Use a marker.
Step 3: mounting hangers
With the help of wood screws and a screwdriver, the suspensions are attached to the wooden wall of the house. These metal strips are placed horizontally, aligning the marking point with the center of the wide slot in the middle of the gimbal. At the initial stage of siding installation, the perforated "legs" are not folded back, but left pressed against the wall.
Step 4: installing the lathing corner posts
Corner posts consist of two PP 60/27 profile strips connected at right angles. They will serve as the basis for the installation of external and internal siding corners. When installing corner posts, it is important not to make a mistake, and set the angle exactly as needed: for outer corners with a ledge outward, for internal corners - with a ledge inward.
Step 5: installing intermediate vertical studs of the lathing
It is important that all the vertical supports of the frame are in the same plane. If you pull a thread between the corner posts, the installation of the intermediate posts will be easier and faster. The lower and upper ends of the PP 60/27 profile are inserted into the PN 28/27 guides and fastened with self-tapping screws. Thus, the frame acquires the required rigidity.
Step 7: mounting the frame for windows and doors
The metal frame around window and door openings should be a solid frame of regular geometric shape, which exactly follows the contours of the opening. It should be noted that the slopes and low tide should have a slight slope from the window installed in the house. Therefore, the frame is mounted in such a way that its vertical and horizontal strips are spaced 1-2 cm apart from the window lines. The same requirements are set for doorways.
Prices for popular models of screwdrivers
Screwdrivers
Rules for installing a wooden frame
Having figured out how to make a metal frame for siding, it is easy to mount a wooden crate. It is established according to the same rules. But other materials and tools will be required:
- wood screws;
- hacksaw;
- bars with a section of 3x4, 4x4 or 4x5 cm.
Lumber is necessarily treated with an antiseptic solution, which prevents premature destruction of wood. It is recommended to apply a double or triple coat of this composition. The bars must be well dried and even. A plane is used to eliminate flaws.
The device of a wooden lathing for siding does not provide for the installation of guides. The ends of the uprights are connected to each other with similar wooden bars.
Features of the installation of the frame for plating the plinth with siding
Siding is suitable not only for wall cladding and gables. It is also suitable for plating the foundation. Since the basement is more often subjected to mechanical stress than walls and gables, it is recommended to install a metal crate. Please note that each plinth siding panel must be installed on 4 vertical posts. The distance between them must be the same.
Installation of siding on the crate
During the installation of the panels, trimming will inevitably be required. Sawing is performed using a grinder and a circle for metal with a thickness of 1.5-2 mm. It will work with both metal and vinyl siding. You can use metal scissors to cut panels and additional elements.
Step 1: installing the starter bar
The quality of all further work will depend on how correctly the starting bar is set. Therefore, this process must be treated with full responsibility. The starting profile must be installed strictly horizontally along the entire length of the wall. In order to fulfill this condition, self-tapping screws are screwed in the lower part of the corner posts of the crate so that the thread stretched between them is located strictly horizontally. It will serve as a guide when installing the starter profile.
It is important that when building up, a gap of 0.8-10 mm wide remains between the planks.
Video - Installing the starting bar
Video - How to insert siding into the starting one, installation using the example of Docke siding (Döcke)
Step 2: installing the corner profile
The lower border of the profile should be 0.5-1 cm below the starting bar. When building up the corner profile, the side perforation is trimmed. The optimal overlap of the lower part on the upper is 2.5 cm. There should be a gap of 8-9 mm between the perforations of the upper and lower corner profiles.
If during work it was found that the length of the corner profile is not enough to sheathe the corner, do not rush to the store. You can use the starting strips already available. They need to be connected together so that the desired angle is obtained: internal or external.
Step 3: decorating window openings
If the opening is in the same plane with the facade, two vertical and two horizontal near-window profiles are installed.
If the window openings are recessed into the facade, installation of slopes and ebb tide will be required. It is important to properly interconnect the near-window strips so that water does not get inside the facing layer.
Step 4: mounting the first panel
Siding panels are simply inserted into the H-profile, maintaining a gap of 5-6 mm
When attaching siding and any of the additional elements, it is necessary to leave a gap of 1-2 mm, without screwing the self-tapping screw tightly into the frame. Otherwise, the skin will deform under the influence of compression-expansion forces.
The end of the first panel is inserted into the corner profile and the lock connection of the starting plate. After that, proceed to fastening the siding to the crate. When extending the panel, cut off 4-5 cm of perforation.
Step 5: panel set
During installation, the panels must be regularly checked for correct positioning using a bubble level of at least 80 cm in length.
Step 6: mounting the finishing strip
When you reach the top of the wall, you may find that there is not enough space to mount the entire panel. In this case, measure the distance from the lock fastening of the last installed panel to the top point of the wall. Then they take a new panel, apply the appropriate markings on it with a pencil and cut off the excess. Attach the siding to the crate and install a finish bar on top of it.
Under the window, everything is about the same - the uppermost bar is cut to size and simply snaps onto the lower siding lock
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Aluminum ladder
How to correctly and economically install window fittings
To form slopes, use a plastic or metal L-shaped bar (L-profile). Measure the length and width of the window block and cut the strips for the top, bottom and sides of the window.
In order to compensate for the difference between the thickness of the manufacturer's near-window strip and the width of the L-profile, two strips of the same length are required for each side of the window. One will be inserted into the other, which will simultaneously strengthen the profile.
Take one bar and attach it to the top of the installed window block. Self-tapping screws SMM 3.5 / 51 are used. In a similar way, the L-profile is attached along the entire perimeter of the window.
In order to form the protrusion necessary for installing the near-window strip, the same, similar length is inserted into the profile fixed on the window. But first, super-glue is applied to it. It is important not to forget that the profile to be glued must be dry and clean. The L-profile is inserted towards the one fixed on the window so that the short shelf joins the long one.
At the lower corner points of the window in the direction of the crate, it is necessary to strengthen similar double strips of such a length that it corresponds to the width of the slope required in this case. These double short strips should be on the previously installed metal shroud.
The required length of the near-window strip is measured and cut off with scissors for metal. On each side of the plank, you need to make a cut at an angle of 45 °, which will form a beautiful slope. Before fastening the planks, cut off the excess of the perforated abutment.
The near-window strip is inserted into the L-profile so that its rectangular perforated ledge is closely adjacent to the lathing post located next to it. Fastening is carried out.
The self-tapping screws with which the siding is attached must be screwed strictly into the center of the factory holes. But the last top sheathing panel is allowed to be fixed directly through vinyl or metal.
The finished result - the pediment is sheathed, spotlights installed
Video - Step-by-step installation of factory window abutments
Video - How to slaughter a near-window profile
Video - Installation of overlap siding on a wooden frame
Video - How siding ends at the top
- an excellent material for house cladding. At its affordable cost, it has many positive performance and technical characteristics.
You are offered detailed instructions for self-assembly siding. The guide is universal. Following its provisions, you will be able to complete any finishing that involves installation on a crate: fiber cement, wood, metal, vinyl, etc.
We mount the crate
Siding is best attached to pre-assembled battens. We work in the following order.
The first stage - choose the material
The frame can be assembled from a wooden bar or a metal profile. Metal products are stronger and more durable. In addition, metal lathing is much easier to attach to an uneven base.
Find out, as well as familiarize yourself with the calculation algorithm with an emphasis on possible nuances.
Installation of profiles is carried out in half-meter increments. Hangers are used for wall mounting. This technique will allow you to level the surface drops and fix the frame elements in level.
Wooden lathing is cheaper. When choosing this option, pay attention to the condition of the wood. It is prohibited that:
- the material has exfoliated;
- was deformed;
- had cyanotic spots and traces of rot, etc.
The elements of the wooden lathing must be impregnated with a fire retardant and antiseptic. If the house is built of wooden elements, the walls should also be treated with the listed preparations.
The second stage - we prepare the base
The lathing is easiest to attach to a flat base. First of all, we remove any details that might interfere. These are all kinds of tiles, bars, platbands, gutters, etc.
The third stage - set the guides
Siding is best mounted horizontally. In this case, we fix the bars or profiles of the lathing vertically.
For attaching the rails to wooden walls we use nails or screws. If the house is built of concrete blocks or bricks, we fix it with dowels, having previously drilled holes for them in the wall of the house.
We level each rail.
Important! If you plan to do it outdoors, it is best to attach the siding battens after all insulation work has been completed. In this case, there will be two battens: for insulating materials and for cladding. In this case, the slats of the two frames must be placed parallel to each other.
You can, of course, try to lay the insulating layers after attaching the siding battens, but this is not very convenient.
We mount J-profiles
The starting guides must be perfectly secured because the quality of the entire cladding depends on the correctness of their installation.
First step. Take the level and find the lowest point on the crate. We step back from it up 50 mm and put a mark. To do this, screw a self-tapping screw into the rail a little.
Second step. We consistently move around the building and continue to put marks with self-tapping screws to fix the starting profiles. We also screw in self-tapping screws in the corners of the house.
Third step. Pull the rope between the corner marks.
Fourth step. We mark on the rails the boundaries of the installation of the corner profiles. We take the profile itself, apply it to the corner of the frame structure and place marks along the edges with a pencil.
Important! Leave a 1-cm gap between the profiles to compensate for thermal deformations.
Leave a gap between the starting guides and the nail strips.
In order not to make a 6 mm indent, you can cut off parts of the nail strips so that during temperature changes they do not rest against the J-profile.
Important! The starting profiles must be mounted strictly horizontally! Correct deviations as long as necessary.
If you set the guides with deviations from the level, the siding will also warp. It will be extremely difficult to fix this in the future.
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Profile mounts
We install external corner profiles
First step. We mark the spotlights. We need to see where the edges of these elements will be in the future.
Second step. We apply a guide to the corner of the frame. We do this with a 3 mm gap to the soffit or roof. We fix the profile with self-tapping screws.
Place the lower border of the element 0.6 cm below the edge of the starting profile.
Third step. We check the verticality of the installation. In the absence of deviations, we fix the bottom, and then the rest of the places. Experts advise against placing fasteners in corner pieces too often.
If the house is taller than 300 cm, the profiles will need to be superimposed one on top of the other. To do this, trim the top profile. As a result, a 9 mm gap should remain between the strips of the abutting elements. When laying the elements, we maintain an overlap of 2.5 cm.
Important! We dock the profiles at the same level on each side of the house.
If the base has a protruding structure, we shorten the profile so that a 6 mm gap remains between it and the base.
Helpful advice! Instead of the corner profile, it is allowed to install 2 J-elements (starting). This will save you money. But this solution also has its drawback - the corner will not be as tight as when using a special corner profile. Having decided to use this method, first glue the wall around a similar corner with a strip of rolled waterproofing material.
We mount internal corner profiles
The order of installation of these elements does not differ significantly from the technology for arranging external corners - we leave an indent of 3 mm between the profile and the soffit, and lower the lower end of the profile by 0.6 cm below the J-bar.
If from below there is a protruding base or other element that is knocked out of the general level, then we also leave a 6 mm indent between it and the profile - it is impossible for the profile of the inner corner to rest against it.
There are 3 methods for arranging interior corners, see the picture.
If the height of the wall is more than 300 cm, we perform the splicing of the profiles. The technology is the same as for the arrangement of external corners.
Leave a 9mm gap between the planks, carefully trimming off excess material. The overlap of the upper element to the lower one is 2.5 cm. We install the fasteners in 4-cm increments, placing them strictly in the center of the holes intended for this. The exception is the highest point. Here, the fasteners need to be installed at the top of the hole.
We mount frames for openings
For most inexperienced craftsmen, difficulties arise precisely at the stage of framing and doorways. The order of work will differ depending on how the openings are arranged in relation to the plane of the wall.
Openings in the same plane with the facade
In this case, we do the following.
First step. We carry out waterproofing of openings.
Second step. We attach platbands or J-profiles to the openings. We equip each opening using 4 platbands: a pair of vertical and a pair of horizontal ones.
Third step. We connect the profiles.
To make the connection of the platbands as accurate as possible, we do this:
The platband below is connected in the same way, only the bridges will need to be cut and bent on the side elements for their further overlay on the profile below.
The openings are recessed into the facade
When installing near-window profiles, we work in compliance with the same recommendations as when installing platbands, i.e. create cuts on the profile corresponding to the depth of the opening, and then bend the bridges and insert them into the finishing elements.
Do not be too lazy to understand the principles of folding such bridges. We make them so that they cover the joint of the cladding elements. As a result, moisture will not be able to penetrate inside.
We mount the first panel
We start cladding with the least visible wall of the building. So we can practice and work out all kinds of inaccuracies.
First step. We insert the first cladding panel into the corner profile and into the lock connection of the starting strip.
Important! Leave a 6 mm temperature gap between the first cladding element and the bottom of the corner profile lock.
Second step. We attach the panel to the crate.
It is important to respect the dimensions of the technological indents. If the cladding is carried out in warm weather, we maintain a 6 mm indent, if in cold weather, we increase the gap to 9 mm. When setting the trims of the panels, the indents can be reduced.
Expanding the panels
We build up cladding elements with an overlap or with the help of an H-profile.
When fixing panels with an overlap, you must first shorten the cladding panel locks and fixing frames so that the resulting overlap has a 2.5 cm length.
Installation of the H-profile is carried out similarly to corner elements - at the top we retreat 0.3 cm from the soffit, lower it by 0.6 cm in relation to the starting profile.
Important! Leave a 6 mm gap between the H-profile and any obstacles on the house.
We mount the rest of the siding
We continue facing the house with siding. The technology of operation is similar to the procedure for fixing the first panel.
Important! Every 2-3 rows, we check the horizontality of the cladding using a level.
Having reached the opening, we remove the unnecessary piece of the panel falling on the opening.
We provide reliable fastening of the panels with the help of "hooks". For this we need a punch.
We mount an additional finishing profile at the bottom of the opening. It will allow you to align the cladding on the plane.
Mount under the roof
We attach the J-profile under the roof structure.
We work in the following order.
First step. We measure the distance between the lower part of the finishing element lock and the lock of the penultimate cladding panel.
Second step. Subtract a 1-2 mm indent from the resulting measurement.
Third step. We mark the whole panel, cut off its upper part with a lock connection.
Fourth step. Create "hooks" at the top of the element in 20 cm increments. To do this, we make incisions and bend them to the front side.
Fifth step. Insert the trimmed element into the penultimate siding panel. With a slight upward movement, we snap the inserted element into the lock connection of the finishing profile.
We mount the pediment
We sew the pediment around the perimeter. All fasteners, except for the top one, are installed in the center of the holes. The upper fastener is installed at the top of the hole. It can be sheathed with both profiles for arranging internal corners and a starting profile.
The installation procedure is the same as for fastening wall panels... We trim the edges of the elements and connect them with the locks of the receiving profiles. Remember the 6mm spacing when installing in warm weather and 9mm when doing work in winter.
We attach the last element of the gable trim directly through the panel material - this can only be done here.
The cladding is complete.
Find out how, as well as view calculations and a step-by-step guide, in our new article.
In order for the decoration of the house with panels to be as successful as possible, you need to know certain subtleties of performing such work. There is a list of general guidelines for any siding, as well as individual tips for panels made from a particular material.
Now you can do it yourself at the highest level.
| Name (model) | Advantages | Length x width x thickness, mm | Qty in a package, pcs |
|---|---|---|---|
| Vinyl Siding "Kanada Plus" | 1. Coloring in dark tones is performed using the "Cool Color" method (heat absorption), which implies the use of masterbatches. 2. Excellent appearance remains unchanged even when exposed to high and low temperatures, the range of which ranges from -50 ° C to + 60 ° C. 3. Retains shock resistance, even if the ambient temperature drops to -20 60 ° C. 4. Not subject to microbiological corrosion (fungi, mold). | 3660 x 230 x 1.1 | 20 |
| Acrylic Siding "Kanada Plus" | Among other useful qualities of Kanada Plus acrylic siding, it is worth highlighting: Increased resistance to direct UV rays; Excellent tolerance to acidic and alkaline solutions, as well as to various fats; Good washing tolerance with chemical detergents; High degree of deformation resistance (perfectly tolerates temperatures up to 75 ° -80 ° C). | 3660 x 230 x 1.1 | 20 |
| "Alta-Siding" - Vinyl Siding | "Alta-siding" is: one of the safest finishing materials on the Russian market; frost resistance and the ability to maintain strength even at very low temperatures (from -20 to -60 ° C); resistance to significant temperature changes and impact external environment; durability: the service life of "Alta-siding" is up to 30 years; resistance to aggressive substances (for cleaning siding you can use detergents); not susceptible to mold infestation. | 3660 x 230 x 1.1 | 20 |
| Facade metal siding INSI | Siding "INSI" is made of galvanized steel covered with a layer of polymer composition, which means it inherits all the advantages of this material: resistance to temperature extremes (-50 ° С - + 80 ° С) and mechanical damage; long service life with preservation of the original properties (about 50 years); environmental friendliness; incombustibility; the ability to mount both horizontally and vertically; protection of the building from overheating (in the ventilated facade system); and when choosing one of the two new colors (alder or rosewood) - a complete imitation of the appearance. | Length up to 6000, width up to 200, thickness 0.5 | - |
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Video - DIY siding installation
Siding installation is a fairly simple matter. The material was developed in order not only to provide a beautiful and reliable cladding, but also to make the installation process as easy as possible, as well as to ensure the correct joining of the material.
However, in practice, there are always moments that the lamella manufacturer is not able to take into account.
Installation difficulties
It would seem that the developers of the material have foreseen everything so that the cladding is reliable.
- The lamellas are fastened to each other in a special way: such a connection turns out to be much more resistant to gusts of wind, pressure and other mechanical stress.
- At the same time, the snapping-in also guarantees correct installation: it will not be possible to fix the lamella at an angle or unevenly. It would seem, why, in this case, such a tool as a notch punch for siding.
- For the design of corners, window and door openings, joining lamellas along the length, there are special prefabricated elements, whose size and shape allow you to easily and tightly fix horizontal elements into vertical ones. And finally, for an easy start and end of the installation, special parts have been developed - the start and finish bar.
All this works perfectly, but only in those cases when the dimensions of the facade turn out to be multiples of the dimensions of the lamellas. This rarely happens. Much more often, the finishing or near-edge strip has to be cut with your own hands, since its width turns out to be excessive. And cut off at the expense of the part where the mounting holes are located.
As a result, the builder receives an element of a suitable length, but not adapted for snapping-in, since the necessary notches are missing. To form them, a notch punch is needed to snap in the siding panels, for example, model SL5.
How the tool works
In appearance, it resembles ordinary pliers, but unlike the latter, it forms U-shaped holes. Suitable for both vinyl and aluminum lamellas.
The excess part of the plank is cut off with a circular saw or grinder - this option is more suitable for siding than metal scissors. Then, the required number of notches are made on the site with a punch. Make sure that the number of holes and the distance between them coincide with the slots in the factory material. The photo shows the SL5 model.
How to replace the punch during installation?
Installation of siding without a punch is quite possible. Professional devices rarely end up in the hands of a home craftsman, since they have a hefty cost, they are designed for long-term continuous work, and all this is simply not needed by someone who cladding the facade of his own building.
So there are quite a few ways to do without a tool. How to replace it during installation?
Use a piece of ordinary steel pipe with a diameter of 10 mm. The end of the pipe is flattened on the anvil in order to obtain a narrow oval hole. Its edges are sanded to give them the desired sharpness. This do-it-yourself siding punch copes with vinyl lamellas.
The plank is placed on a hard surface, best of all on a work table, the end of the flattened pipe is set vertically and pressed into the surface of the lamellas with a hammer blow. The edges cut through the material to produce the desired cut. This process is much less pleasant than using a special tool, however, the cost of a self-made cutter is much lower. Despite the somewhat atypical shape of the holes, they cope with their role - they provide snapping in of the lamellas.
In the video, a do-it-yourself siding notch punch demonstrates its functionality.
Vinyl siding is a simple enough material to work with with your own hands. We provide illustrated step-by-step instructions for self-assembly.
Installation of siding is carried out either directly on the walls of the house, or on a pre-assembled lathing. If a crate is planned, then installing it with your own hands will also be the first stage of installing the siding.
Siding installation
The entire installation process with your own hands or by the forces of workers can be divided into the following installation stages:
We mark and attach the starting J-profiles
When assembling siding with your own hands, especially for the first time, it is better to invest as much time in starter profiles as required.
Using the construction level, determine the bottom point on the crate, make an indent 5 cm up from it and make a mark on the lath with a shallow self-tapping screw (Fig. 1).
Rice. 1: The starter profiles must be installed strictly horizontally
Moving around the house, continue to mark with self-tapping screws in the corners of the house where the starting J-profiles are attached - until you return to the first mark.
If everything is measured exactly, the start and finish points will coincide!
Pull on the cords screwed in at the corners of the self-tapping screws (Fig. 1).
Mark the boundaries of the location of the corner profiles on the laths - attach the profile itself to the corner of the battens and mark the edges with a pencil (Fig. 2).
Moving along the cord, leave a horizontal distance of 6 mm from the border of the corner profiles, attach the J-profiles to the laths.
Do not forget about the technological indentation of 10-12 mm between the profiles, so that they do not come into contact with temperature drops.
There should also be an indentation between the profiles and the nail strips (Fig. 3).
If desired, instead of an indent of 6 mm, you can cut the nail strips with metal scissors so that they do not run into the starting profile when the temperature changes (Fig. 4).
Very important: when working with your own hands, pay maximum attention to ensuring that the starting profiles are installed strictly horizontal!
The overwhelmed level when installing with your own hands will lead to the fact that a number of siding panels will also be skewed. It will be very difficult to correct this situation and this may result in a violation of the installation technology.
Better to spend any amount of time maintaining the horizontal level of the profiles - the time spent will pay off!
Installation of external corner profiles
Before setting the outside corners, install or mark the spotlights so you can see where the edges will go.
Attach the profile to the corner of the batten so that the distance to the roof or soffit is 3 mm and fix it by installing a self-tapping screw at the top of the mounting hole on both sides.
The corner profile will be suspended at a distance of 3 mm from the soffit, the lower edge of the profile must be positioned 6 mm below the starting profile (Fig. 5).
Check the verticality a couple of times and, if everything is in order, secure the bottom, and then the rest of the fasteners. We recommend not placing fasteners in the corner profile too often.
2 potential DIY installation questions:
- The height of the house is more than 3 meters - the profile is shorter
- What if the house has protruding parts (such as a plinth or veranda)?
If you need a length of more than 3 meters: the profiles will have to overlap each other, to do this, trim the upper profile so that there is a gap of 9 mm between the fastening strips of the abutting profiles, and the overlap of the profiles is 25 mm (Fig. 6).
Important: the joints of the profiles are made at the same level on all sides of the facade!
If the base protrudes: everything is simple - the profile must be shortened so that it does not reach the 6 mm base.
2 J-profiles (starting profiles) can be used instead of a special corner - this will help to save money when installing with your own hands. The disadvantage of the solution is that the corner will turn out to be less airtight from precipitation - it is better to glue the wall surface around such an angle with a strip of rolled waterproofing (Fig. 7).
Installation of internal corner profiles
On the inner corners, the profiles are mounted in the same way as on the outer ones - leave an indent of 3 mm to the soffit at the top, and make the lower end 6 mm below the stratum profile.
A distance of 6 mm must remain up to the protruding element below, if any (eg protruding plinth).
In the case of a protruding element at the bottom, the inner corner profile should not rest against it - a gap of 6 mm should remain.
There are 3 options for the execution of internal corners:
If the wall is higher than 3 m, the profiles at the inner corners are spliced absolutely identically to the outer ones - it is very easy to do it yourself.
A distance of 9 mm is left between the fastening strips (excess vinyl is removed with metal scissors), the top panel is located on the bottom by 25 mm. The fastener is placed every 40 mm, in the center of the fastening holes, the fastener at the highest point is placed in the upper part of the fastening hole.
Installation of frames for openings
When installing siding with your own hands, framing openings, as a rule, raises the most questions. Consider 2 installation options:
- Openings are in the same plane with the walls or protrude from the walls
- The openings are in the niche of the walls
If window or door openings are in the same plane with a facade, starting J-profiles or platbands are attached to them.
You must first waterproof the openings!
You will need 2 horizontal and 2 vertical platbands per opening. To calculate the size of the platband, the length of the side of the opening is taken and increased by twice the height of the platband - this additional distance will be required so that the platbands are beautifully and imperceptibly connected at the junction.
Profiles (platbands) are connected as follows (Fig. 9):
- Make cuts-bridges on the upper profile on both sides (which are equal to its height)
- Fold down these bridges - precipitation and moisture should go along them from the upper profile to the lower
- Remove vinyl pieces on the side profiles that interfere with the connection to the top
- Connect the top and side profiles (the folded bridges will be inside the profiles)
The lower platband is also connected in the same way, only the bridges are notched and bent not on the lower, but on the side profiles in order to superimpose them on the lower profile.
If the facade and the framed opening are in the same plane, then the cut vinyl pieces are bent inside the lower profile or simply removed.
If the framed opening is, on the contrary, recessed, then when mounting the near-window profile with your own hands, adhere to the same principles as with the platband - cuts are made in the profile equal to the depth of the opening niche, which are bent and inserted into the finishing profiles (Fig. 10-12).
In order not to get confused when you do the installation of siding with your own hands, it is important to understand the meaning of bending such tongues - they should always close the joint of the profiles, so that moisture goes through them and did not get inside. This logic will help you evaluate the correctness of the connection.
Installation of the first panel
When installing siding with your own hands, installing the first panel requires maximum attention, as well as installing the starting profile.
We recommend starting the installation of siding (especially with your own hands) from the least noticeable side of the house - in order to fill your hand and work out possible mistakes.
The panel is inserted into the start strip lock and into the corner profile - it is necessary to leave a 6 mm gap to the bottom of the corner profile lock in case of panel resizing (Fig. 13). After that, without tension, attach the panel to the crate.
Technological indents must be strictly observed: when installing with your own hands in winter, the panel (one-piece) can increase in size by 18 mm (maximum value).
Under the influence of the sun, the panel will also change its size, and then, in winter, it will jump out of the lock of the adjacent profile, if too large an indent for thermal expansion was left.
- In the summer season - 6 mm
- In winter - 9 mm
Extending panels
The panels are extended either with an H-profile or with an overlap.
When assembling siding panels with your own hands overlapping, trim the fastening frames and panel locks so that the overlap length is 25 mm (as is the case with the profiles) (Fig. 14).
Fasten the H-profile in the same way as the external and internal corner profiles - at the top, the distance from the soffit is 3 mm, and at the bottom, lower it 6 mm below the starting profile. In case of protruding obstacles on the facade, leave a 6 mm clearance to the obstacle so that the H-profile does not touch it (Fig. 15).
The H-profile is built up with an overlap, according to the same principles as the internal-external corner profiles.
Installation of other panels
When assembling the siding with your own hands, check the siding surface for horizontalness on every third row of panels.
When the opening mark is reached, on the panel that falls on the opening, calculate and remove the unnecessary part of the vinyl - you need to cut off the opening width from the panel, increased by a double technological indent of 6 mm.
By removing excess vinyl sections from the ends of the panel, you will provide a minimum vertical technological gap of 1-2 mm, and the cut ends of the panel will be able to move in the window profile lock if necessary (Fig. 16).
In order for the panels to be securely fixed, "hooks" are required - a special punch (punch) is required.
V bottom rail the opening, an additional finishing profile is inserted to align the siding in the plane, since the depth of trimming the panels depends on the height of the opening on the facade and can vary.
Rice. 17: Installing the Siding Finish Panel on the Wall
Further steps when installing siding with your own hands:
- Measure the distances in different places between the lock of the penultimate siding panel and the bottom of the finish profile lock
- Subtract from this value a technological offset of 1-2 mm
- Mark out the whole siding panel, remove the top part with the lock
- Make "hooks" bend to the front side, on the top of the panel (step 20 cm)
- Insert the trimmed panel into the penultimate panel and snap into the lock of the finishing profile with an upward movement
Installation of the pediment
Sheathe the perimeter of the gable positioning the fasteners as follows: the upper fasteners at the top of the fastening hole, the rest in the center. Both J-profiles and internal corners can be used.
Do-it-yourself installation of panels is identical with the walls. The edges of the panels are trimmed and inserted into the locks of the receiving profiles. Don't forget to make a technological indent here as well.
The amount of indentation between the siding and the bottom of the castle (gutter):
- 6 mm - in summer
- 9 mm in winter
The final (last) gable panel is attached directly through the vinyl - this is absolutely the only place where it is possible to attach the siding in this way.
The only time a siding panel can be attached directly through the vinyl is the last panel