The importance of air exchange in living quarters leaves no doubt. High-quality ventilation is the key to maintaining family health. But ventilation is not only a requirement for humans. Its task, as one of the main engineering systems, while maintaining a normal microclimate, is to prevent the gradual destruction of structural elements of the structure. Mold, high humidity, "crying" windows, fumes have a negative effect not only on human health, but also on things and objects in the house.
Features of ventilation in a private house
The ventilation system of modern private housing construction faces completely different tasks than in houses built at the end of the last century. So, for example, the amenities were "in the yard", food preparation - in summer kitchen, cellar and garage - separate premises, laundry was dried outside. The house itself is one-story, its footage ranged from 60-100 sq. m, with a shallow foundation. For construction, brick, cement, sand, clay, wood and slate were used. The houses were heated mainly with a stove. The chimney replaced the hood. Wooden window frames and doors naturally aided the intake of air.
Factors impeding proper ventilation in modern private houses:
- The houses are a comfortable residential complex in which the living area is adjacent to a kitchen, sanitary rooms, sometimes a swimming pool, a gym, and often a garage (a source of toxic substances).
- The stoves disappeared, and with them the main ventilation duct.
- Drying the laundry in the house resulted in intense vapors.
- Sealed structures and materials are used: metal-plastic windows, doors with seals, polyurethane foam, sealants, adhesives, external and internal finishing materials.
- Refusal from an unheated attic space in favor of an attic floor.
- The shape of the roof without a ridge is flat.
- Deepening the foundation to the depth of soil freezing, which increased the accumulation of harmful radon gas in the structures of the house.
- The increase in the number of storeys led to a violation of the correct air circulation.
Considering all these factors, proper ventilation should minimize their negative impact. For each country house its own system is being built, correlating with the desires of the consumer, his financial capabilities.
Types of ventilation systems
Ventilation schemes in a private house have three options for arrangement:
- Natural - fresh air flows into the room through cracks, windows, doors. Saturated with carbon dioxide - come out through ventilation holes in sanitary rooms (toilet, bathroom) and in the kitchen.
- Forced - all air exchange processes are performed by specialized equipment.
- Mixed - one of the natural directions of air (inflow or intake) is replaced by a mechanical one.
Natural ventilation is based on the difference in temperature and pressure between the outside and the room. Hence the disadvantage - stable work is possible in the cold season and when the temperature inside the building is higher than the outside. In addition, for its functioning, air must constantly and freely flow in and out.
Forced ventilation in a private house is divided into: type-setting, consisting of individual components and monoblock, in which all elements are structurally assembled into one block. The disadvantages are the high price, the complexity of installation, for typesetting - the need for calculations, cumbersome.
Ventilation equipment in a private house is different for each type. So, natural ventilation is equipped only with ventilation boxes and pipes.
For forced ventilation, apply:
- fans;
- filters;
- ionizers;
- electric air heaters;
- dehumidifiers;
- recuperators.
Forced ventilation in the house is prompted by such devices:
- wall valve;
- infiltration valve;
- supply unit.
For the operation of the exhaust, fans are mainly used with different design solutions - axial, duct. Often, with their help, it is possible to solve the problem of "sluggish" intake of moist and exhaust air in the bathroom and toilet rooms.
DIY ventilation device in a private house
Step number 1 Calculations
To find out the power of the system, a parameter such as air exchange is calculated. It is calculated for each room separately according to the formula:
V is the volume of the room (cubic meters), calculated by multiplying the width, length and height of the room;
K - approved by SNiP 41-01-2003 norms of minimum air exchange in rooms (cubic m / h). For residential areas - 30, separate sanitary rooms - 25, combined - 50, kitchens - 60-90.
Also, in the calculations of the ventilation system of a private house, other indicators are taken into account:
- The number of people who are constantly in the house. One requires 30 cubic meters. m / h of air.
- The thickness of the walls of the premises.
- The number of household and computer equipment.
- Glazing area.
- The location of the building relative to the cardinal points.
- Presence (absence) of the prevailing wind in this area.
- The presence in the structure of the pool. It is recommended to carry out a separate system for it.
Step 2 Natural ventilation: improvement of parameters
Natural ventilation in a private house does not always cope with its task of maintaining the specified temperature and humidity parameters. Then, it is desirable to "modify" the system.
Window supply valves will help with this. They will not depressurize the window, but will create an influx of fresh air. Their installation is elementary, following the instructions, even a completely ignorant person can cope with it. The principle is that an elongated device (350 mm) is mounted on the top of the sash. From this place, the standard seal is cut off and installed from the delivery kit (narrower).
A few more devices that improve the circulation of air flows. In order not to block the flow of air - at all interior doors install ventilation grilles. The process of mixing the cold air of the window and the warm radiator must not be “covered” by a too wide window sill.
If during the construction of the house a natural ventilation system is designed, then the following nuances should be taken into account: the house should not have rooms without windows; a guarantee of good ventilation - the windows face all sides of the building ("blank" walls are excluded).
Important! Natural ventilation is not suitable for large houses. With the correct arrangement of structural elements, heating systems - it is ideal for single-storey houses.
Step 3 Supply and exhaust ventilation systems
The supply ventilation device in a private house is solved using a wall ventilator. It is a telescopic or flexible pipe, on one side (outer) of which there is a decorative grill with a mosquito net (from midges and mosquitoes), on the other (inner) - a fan, a filter.
Supply ventilation in a private house, mounted in the wall in this way:
- With the help of appropriate equipment, a hole of the required diameter is punched.
- A pipe with insulation is inserted into it.
- The device itself is mounted on the glue solution, consisting of a fan, a filter, some models are equipped with an ionizer.
- Electrical connection.
- On the street side, a decorative cover is installed to prevent rain and snow from getting inside, on the inside there is a decorative grill.
Important! Since the intake of fresh air will significantly increase with the help of forced ventilation, make sure that its intake is timely and in the required volumes, otherwise drafts cannot be avoided. Therefore, it should not be installed in a bedroom or children's room. Optimally - a kitchen, a dining room.
The exhaust ventilation scheme in a private house, with a good natural inflow, can consist of fans installed in the premises of the sanitary rooms, in the kitchen. The wall exhaust fan in the kitchen is installed in the same way as the supply fan. In the sanitary room, either axial or duct is mounted in the ventilation duct.
The hood in the kitchen above the stove will also be an additional exhaust duct. If the exhaust ventilation works more intensively than the supply ventilation, then the house will suffocate.
Step number 4 Ventilation in a private house with your own hands scheme
The most optimal ventilation option for a private house is a supply and exhaust ventilation with mechanical induction. Two types of its designs are used: type-setting and monoblock.
The ventilation scheme in a private house of a monoblock system looks like this:
- air from the street, through the supply air duct, enters the recuperator;
- cleared of harmful impurities of the atmosphere;
- heats up to the required temperature;
- further, through the air duct, it enters all the premises of the house;
- exhaust air enters the recuperator through the exhaust pipe;
- gives off its warmth to the incoming cold air;
- from the recuperator, through the chimney into the atmosphere.
Do-it-yourself ventilation in a private house: some features
Delivery of air streams to all rooms and their discharge into the atmosphere is carried out by an air pipeline network. Its components: air ducts, adapters, bends, tees. Characteristic features: cross-sectional area; the form; rigidity (rigid, flexible, semi-flexible). Adjustment of the flow rate is mandatory. If the permissible values are exceeded, a strong noise is generated. The material of the air supply network is galvanized steel or plastic.
The insulating material is selected at will, but not less than 10 mm thick. The inflow pipe from the outer grille to the heating section (recuperator) is insulated, the exhaust hood is in the attic. Thermostats, hydrostats, pressure sensors are used as sensors.
For the correct operation of outdoor ventilation in a private house, you must comply with the requirements. Firstly, the part of the chimney passing through the cold attic space must be insulated. Insulation is chosen that does not allow moisture to pass through. Secondly, the outgoing pipe should be 0.5 m higher than the level of the ridge. Thirdly, it is advisable to mount a deflector at the end of the pipe. It will improve the operation of the entire system by 15-20% by drawing in the exhaust air and passing it through special openings. In addition, it will protect the pipe from snow, rain, birds, debris, and in winter - from freezing.
If you decide to make ventilation with your own hands, remember that air ducts, ducts and other elements of the system should not be conspicuous. If the system is installed after finishing work, then it will be almost impossible to hide them. Therefore, ventilation must be invested in design work. The installation of the system requires a commissioning behavior.
In multi-apartment buildings, the presence of a ventilation system with a natural induction of air circulation is a prerequisite without which a residential facility will not be put into operation.
However, in private construction, the organization of air exchange is often remembered only with the appearance of unpleasant odors and fungal mold on the walls. A well-designed ventilation scheme in a private house will help to solve this problem.
In this article, we will talk about the features of natural and forced ventilation, the principles of its functioning. And also about how to correctly draft an air exchange system in a private house.
The use of modern materials and various external enclosing structures of a cottage / house in construction makes it difficult for natural air exchange between rooms and the street, and sometimes even blocks it altogether. Thanks to the internal and installed plastic windows, buildings become airtight.
Such measures help to conserve heat and save energy, but strongly impede the flow of fresh air. To remedy this typical situation, an efficient air circulation system has to be organized.
In the building, ventilation is needed so that fresh air regularly flows into the bathroom, bedroom, living room and kitchen, not through open windows and doors, but through special devices - anemostats and air diffusers.
According to generally accepted sanitary and hygienic standards, a properly functioning ventilation system- an obligatory element of the engineering equipment of all residential buildings
A constant flow of air into the house will provide comfortable conditions for long-term living of people and keeping plants, as well as for the full functioning of all technical systems.
Ventilation is also necessary to maintain optimal environmental parameters for the safe operation of various building structures, wooden furniture and interior items.
The circulation of air flows must be organized not only in living rooms, but also in the premises of utility technical purpose- bathroom and bathrooms, in the kitchen, in the boiler room, etc.
A high-quality ventilation system contributes to the rapid removal of excess moisture and heat. Together with the exhaust air, harmful microorganisms, accumulated dirt and dust are simultaneously removed from the premises.
That is why it is important, even at the design stage of a residential building, to think over all the details of the engineering network: to make it more powerful than in other rooms, to choose the right functional elements of the ventilation system in order to ensure the optimal level of oxygen in the interior.
Methods for organizing air exchange in the house
There are different ways to ensure air exchange in a residential building - from periodic short-term opening of doors and windows to the installation of multifunctional systems for the preparation and delivery of clean air to each room.
From the point of view of ventilation, a healthy and comfortable atmosphere in a home is not only due to the composition of the air. Its temperature, uniformity of distribution and mobility play an important role.
The intake of cool air can create a powerful convection flow, which will be perceived by a person as an unpleasant draft. As a result, even at normal temperature, the room will be uncomfortable.
In old brick buildings, ventilation and airing were provided by special vents left during the construction of a residential building.
The ventilation system in the kitchen of the cottage, made of wooden beams, also seemed as simple as possible. Leaking doorways and window blocks helped keep the air flowing throughout the house.
All these methods are still used today in small one-story buildings. Natural ventilation of air is enough there. But if we talk about large and spacious private houses, then one cannot do without additionally installed central air conditioners and fans.
Types of ventilation systems
According to the basic requirements of hygiene and sanitary standards, the performance of any type of ventilation should be:
- 3 m 3 per hour per 1 square meter for living rooms;
- 25 m 3 for separate sanitary facilities;
- 50 m 3 for sanitary facilities.
The amount of fresh air that must be supplied to various rooms also depends on a number of other factors - the number of people, the nature and frequency of the work performed, and the concentration of harmful substances.
In living quarters, 35 m 3 of air is introduced per adult, for children under the age of 10 they take a rate of 15-20 m 3 per hour, for children a little older - 25 m 3.
The designed ventilation scheme in compliance with these parameters will guarantee a regular stable supply of fresh air and comfortable living in a private house.
There are three types of air exchange systems:
- natural- with a natural urge to circulate air currents;
- mechanical- with forced supply and exhaust of air;
- combined- with partial use of mechanical extraction and natural intake of fresh air masses.
It is necessary to organize a continuous automatic supply of clean air in the house. Only the intensity of inflow and removal can change.
But on the other hand, the forced mechanisms involved greatly simplify the ventilation of residential and auxiliary premises.
And read about how to correctly calculate the ventilation system for the house.
Natural ventilation in the house
To organize the natural exchange of air, the concept of vertical ventilation ducts is used. One end is mounted indoors, and the other is brought out slightly above the roof of the building.
Since the air temperature in the house is usually different from the outside temperature, warm currents gradually rise along the exhaust duct. The fresh portion enters the rooms from the external space through the window and door blocks.
Among the main advantages of such a system are simplicity and minimal costs for arrangement, saturation of rooms with natural air, independence from electricity.
But there are also significant disadvantages. So, natural ventilation in a private building will only work until the air temperature outside exceeds 12 degrees Celsius. At high rates, the hood will not be able to work fully.
At first glance, this situation seems ideal for the winter, but there is also a drawback that simply cannot be ignored. With a significant temperature difference between the outside and inside air, the system will start working faster. All the heat will literally fly freely into the pipe.
Therefore, residents of cottages and private houses spend more energy on heating than normal climatic conditions require.
To organize a ventilation system of this type, separate duct pipes are laid from each utility room into a common shaft. Two channels must be laid from the kitchen - one from the exhaust grille under the ceiling, and the other from the kitchen hood.
And it is also necessary to pay special attention to all rooms that are fully / partially located below ground level in the house. They accumulate toxic radon. To reduce the amount of hazardous gas, a powerful exhaust duct should be installed.
In addition, you need to take care of reliable basement waterproofing. After all, even the most efficient supply and exhaust system will not cope with its tasks if it is always damp in the basement of a private house or cottage.
How can you improve efficiency?
There are several ways that you can improve the performance of the naturally induced ventilation system:
- install a special valve at the inlet to the channel;
- mount grids with valves on the inflow and outflow channels;
- use a deflector.
The automatic valve reacts even to small changes in air humidity. It is mounted at the entrance to the duct inside the building. When humidity rises in the room, the automatic relay is triggered and the internal valve opens the channel more.
In the event of a decrease in indicators, the device closes the input. The sensing element is a sensor that picks up signals from the environment. It is installed outside the house.
V winter period the valve must be additionally closed. This will minimize the ingress of cold air into the residential building. However, the installation of such a device will not cover all the disadvantages of natural ventilation.
Exhaust ventilation ducts are equipped in capital interior walls building. It is advisable to combine air ducts into small groups so that the passage through the roof is organized in one pipe
Another effective method is the installation of grids with valves on the channels of inflow and removal of air masses. They can only be controlled manually. The position of the valve must be adjusted at least once a season, when the outside air temperature changes.
Wind can also increase the draft in the vertical exhaust ducts. To use natural force, a deflector is put on the upper part of the pipe - a special device that protects the air duct from debris and precipitation, and also increases traction.
The use of a deflector increases the performance of the chimney / ventilation duct by 20%
The deflector divides one air stream into two or even more at different speeds. It creates a vacuum, which in turn increases the pressure drop across the pipe. As a result, the duct draws out the exhaust air better.
Features of forced air exchange
If natural ventilation does not provide a full air renewal, a powerful supply and exhaust system is installed in a private house.
It helps to balance the air flows that circulate between rooms and the outside environment continuously. Such ventilation guarantees a stable supply of cleaned fresh air and the removal of contaminated air outside.
Description of mechanical ventilation option
Modern multifunctional units of supply and exhaust ventilation make the most of the energy of the supplied air flows and convert it into heat.
Such systems produce deep purification of the supply air, completely filtering it out of dust, various allergens, bacteria and other harmful microorganisms.
Additional treatment is created using filtration equipment, highly efficient noise absorbers, ionization and humidifying devices, sometimes aromatizing devices are used.
The processed air flows are distributed throughout the house through special ventilation boxes. Prepared clean air enters the bedroom and children's room, study, living room, kitchen and bathrooms, auxiliary rooms, and is removed from there by an exhaust system
The functional elements of a forced air exchange system are filters and recuperators, fans, hoods, control devices and, directly, a ventilation unit.
The built-in electronics makes it possible to selectively set the optimal user operating modes of the system in terms of temperature and humidity, in time. Remote controls and smart controllers greatly simplify operation.
Mechanical ventilation helps to prevent the formation of unpleasant odors in the kitchen, prevents the appearance of dampness and the spread of multi-colored mold, solves the problem of constant humidity in the bathroom and condensation on the surface of the warm floor, double-glazed windows, door blocks.
Powerful units with integrated filters, special noise absorbers and heaters take up a lot of space. To arrange them, you need to free up space in the attic or in the basement of a private house.
Modern multifunctional forced ventilation systems are often combined with intelligent control and monitoring systems. Such measures optimize the operation of the equipment of all installed engineering systems in the house, make it possible to organize user-friendly remote control of equipment via the Internet.
Mechanical ventilation with heat recovery
In schemes with heat recovery, a stationary supply and exhaust unit is responsible for air exchange in the building. Air from the environment enters the system, after which the filter is cleaned of dust, impurities and is sent for the main heating to the recuperator.
The air masses are heated to the required temperature in an electric / and are distributed throughout the house through durable galvanized steel ventilation ducts.
The heat recovery system will ensure high air quality in the residential building all year round. At low speeds of operating fans, supply and exhaust stationary units operate almost silently.
Automation makes it possible to flexibly control the operation of the equipment: to regulate the air flow, set a comfortable temperature, change the speed of air flows.
Recuperation - rational use of the heat energy of the extract air for the subsequent heating of the supply air. This allows you to reduce up to 85% of the cost of heat for heating the air flow from the external environment in winter.
Maintenance of such an installation consists in regular filter changes. New elements for cleaning the air from dust are recommended to be replaced once a quarter.
System without heat recovery
To organize functional supply and exhaust ventilation without an air recuperator, several exhaust systems and a central supply unit are used at once. Outdoor air is heated or cooled, then it is cleaned in a filter, after which it is distributed through a network of channels to living rooms.
Removal of waste heavy air masses is carried out by hoods in the premises of economic and technical purposes. Such systems make it partly natural and partly coercive. They function by natural draft and by duct fans.
Supply and exhaust circuits without heat recovery provide heating and purification of the air entering the house, but they consume a large amount of energy for the constant processing of air flows.
Combined system type
Combined ventilation is implemented mainly in the form of a scheme with a natural inflow and mechanical, that is, forced, exhaust of the waste masses.
Fresh air enters the rooms through the valves due to the vacuum generated by the exhaust fans. In this case, the preliminary heating of the supply air masses is not performed. But this is not a problem if you install a correctly selected heating element under the valve - an open radiator.
Mechanical exhaust in a private house is performed by fans, as a rule, duct fans. There may be several of them, but sometimes one is enough.
To ensure efficient air circulation, the exhaust fans must run continuously. In order to save energy resources, speed controllers with automatic / manual control are connected to the system.
The flow of air into the house is organized in a natural way. For this, wall-mounted or special window supply valves are used. The design of such devices does not provide for the presence of moving elements.
Specialists characterize combined ventilation as functional, relatively inexpensive and easy to operate. The arrangement of related equipment does not require a lot of space. In addition, all functional elements require minimal maintenance.
Among the disadvantages of the combined type of system, it is worth noting the lack of filtration and heating of the supply air, as well as the minimum air exchange rates.
Rules for drawing up a ventilation project
The full operation of the ventilation system directly depends on the accurate calculation of technical parameters and a well-designed project for the circulation of air flows in the house.
The development of a layout for equipment and piping makes it possible to lay in the project ducts for exhausting stale air. In addition, it will be convenient to adjust the height of the ceilings in the rooms, taking into account the additional space for laying outgoing pipes.
The calculation of ventilation and aspiration must be carried out at the stage of architectural planning of a residential building.
If you carry out the installation of ventilation during redevelopment / reconstruction of a building, you need to specially groove the walls for ventilation ducts or install massive attachment shafts that do not look aesthetically pleasing at all.
It is at the stage of engineering design of the air exchange system that the basic technical solutions are determined:
- the way the air flows are distributed in the house;
- type of ventilation and exhaust shafts;
- availability of filtration equipment.
However, when calculating the ventilation system, infiltration is not taken into account, since the contribution to the circulation of air flows is negligible.
Some building materials and enclosing structures can allow air to pass through without special devices. This process is called active natural infiltration, which must be taken into account when developing a heat supply scheme for a house.
Many factors affect the air quality in living quarters and utility rooms. When developing a ventilation project, in addition to the design features of a private building, different generally accepted standards and objective indicators are taken into account. Also, the personal preferences of the home owner and the available budget play an important role in this process.
The design of ventilation systems is carried out according to the following plan:
- At the initial stage, the terms of reference are drawn up.
- The second step is choosing the optimal air exchange concept in a private house.
- The next stage is the development of a scheme with the calculation of the level created by ventilation, noise, calculation of the cross-section and selection of air ducts with the required parameters.
- This is followed by the preparation of the drawing for approval by the customer.
- The last stage is the final design and delivery of the finished ventilation scheme.
It is necessary to exclude situations when for carrying out renovation works or periodic inspection of equipment will have to dismantle parts of building structures or decorative trim... Therefore, filters, heaters, fans and other system components are best placed in a special technical room.
It will also solve the problem of organizing effective noise isolation of a working ventilation unit.
If you do not follow the templates, but develop an individual concept for arranging ventilation for a specific construction site, you can ensure a stable supply of clean air to all interior rooms and exhaust the polluted one.
When developing a ventilation scheme, you need to focus on some technical features:
- the volumes of exhaust and supply air masses must be balanced;
- fresh and clean air is supplied only to the living rooms, and the exhaust air is removed from the auxiliary rooms;
- it is not allowed to combine the hood from the kitchen and the bathroom into one ventilation duct;
- the speed of the air flow in the exhaust pipes and main air ducts should not exceed 6 m / s. At the exit from the grate, the maximum rate is 3 m / s;
- ventilation shafts that run along the street must be insulated with insulating materials with a thickness of at least 5 cm.
The correct approach to the device for the circulation of air masses will help create a favorable and comfortable microclimate in the house.
Conclusions and useful video on the topic
The video explains why ventilation is needed in every private house and why mixing of the supply and exhaust air flows should not be allowed:
This video clearly shows how to properly organize the inflow and evacuation of air with the natural ventilation scheme of a country house:
In spacious country houses, it is better to entrust professionals. After all, the installed system must not only work, but also cope with the planned tasks.
Competently arranged ventilation will solve the problems of stagnant air and the unpleasant feeling of mustiness in a private house.
It takes ~ 4 minutes to read
To in private house the inflow of fresh air entered, and also the already polluted air was removed, it is necessary to install a ventilation system - an exhaust hood, which can be natural, forced or combined. But regardless of the choice, ventilation will perform its function only if calculations are made in advance, which take into account the size of the room and the features of the future system.
Natural ventilation
At the design stage of the house, a natural ventilation scheme is compiled without fail. The principle of its operation is to air the house at the expense of natural circulation air mass. In order for the system to perform its function properly, the supply of fresh air and the removal of already humid air must be carried out through different rooms. Usually, the space through which air enters is called dry, and the outgoing room is called humid.
You can ventilate your home in four ways:
- ducted, when the house is equipped with vertically located ducts.
- channelless. This method can be used for residential buildings, but it is more suitable for industrial buildings.
- permanent. In this case, the premises are provided with a significant air flow, which enters through the air ducts.
- periodic, when "new" air is supplied at regular intervals.
To increase the level of air exchange in the house, special fans are mounted on the exhaust ducts, which can work both constantly and at a set time. Accordingly, such equipment requires a mains connection.
Advantages
According to the principle of work, it is divided into:
- supply and exhaust, carried out using special equipment. Also, a variation of this method is the installation of recirculation equipment. In this case, the exhaust air passes through the filters, partially mixes with the outside air, and then the purified air is returned to the room;
- supply air with the possibility of heating. For the system to work according to this principle, a recuperator is required, which uses exhaust, but already heated air;
- supply air with cooling. An air conditioner must be installed here;
- supply and exhaust. The most common system for private houses. The circulation of air masses is provided by the installed equipment in combination with elements of natural circulation. This air exchange scheme is relatively easy to install and quite effective.
However, the work of the forced system is carried out by connecting its devices to the power supply network. In addition, the design and calculations of the system are carried out at the stage of drawing up a plan for the construction of a house. All components of forced ventilation perform different functions, but the main and only task of all elements is the supply of fresh air to the premises and the output of the already used air to the street.
The compulsory system includes the following elements and equipment:
- grilles to protect ventilation ducts from rodents, insects and debris;
- filters that prevent dust and pollen from entering the house;
- air valves that regulate the flow of air into the house. In winter, they protect the system from icy gusts of wind;
- fans, used to create a continuous flow in the ventilation ducts;
- sound absorbers, ensuring silent operation of the system;
- air heaters that heat the incoming air;
- ventilation ducts for air movement.
How to properly install the hood in the kitchen in a private house
Hood manufacturers provide consumers with three main device modifications:
- suspended;
- built-in;
- dome or fireplace.
Also, according to the method of purifying the air, they are divided into devices that remove exhaust air to the street, and models operating in recirculation mode.
But regardless of the material of manufacture and cross-section, the diameter of the duct must match the inlet of the hood. With a smaller pipe size, the cooker hood will work in an increased mode, which will lead to early engine damage.
The installed air duct should not completely block the opening of the natural ventilation shaft. For this, a special grill is purchased and installed, the valve of which closes when the hood is turned on, and opens after the end of the device. This mode of operation makes it possible to fully operate the natural air circulation system.
Ventilation in the bathroom and toilet
The task of the installed ventilation in the bathroom comes down to cleaning this room from various odors and eliminating high humidity.
Since the operation of a natural hood completely depends on external climatic factors, it will not always be able to cope with its task. In addition, the absence of special grilles on the outside of the ventilation ducts makes it possible for small rodents and insects to enter the house. However, the system of natural air circulation has its advantages, which are simplicity of design and relatively low price. The absence of complex mechanical elements in a natural hood predicts a long and trouble-free operation of it.
Forced exhaust fans installed in the bathroom can operate either from a light switch or have a separate power point. Also, device manufacturers offer fans with built-in humidity sensors. In this case, the system starts working when the humidity in the room reaches a certain level. There are also models that are equipped with motion sensors that allow you to activate air circulation when a person enters the room.
According to the material of manufacture, decorative designs are:
- plastic;
- wooden;
- steel;
- made of MDF, chipboard or drywall.
However, when installing the box, it is taken into account that it will constantly be exposed to burning, fat and other by-products that arise during cooking. It follows that the structure should be well washed and cleaned. Only in this case the decorative box will fit into the overall design of the room.
Video: how to install an exhaust hood and ventilation through the wall in a private (including wooden) house with your own hands
Ventilation, both forced and natural, will perform its function only if the entire system is organized correctly. And for this, it is necessary to take into account the size of the room and the climatic conditions in which the system will operate.
1. Purpose of the cooker hood.
2. What the system consists of, and the required set of tools.
3. Preliminary work.
4. Installation of the exhaust system.
5. Testing the cooker hood in winter.
The cooker hood is placed above the stove and is designed for ventilation and purification of polluted air (soot, odors) or its movement outside the room. Installing a kitchen hood is a laborious process if you do not have a ventilation opening, which requires basic knowledge and skills in the field of electrical engineering, if you need to move or re-connect the outlet. The rest of the work is not difficult to complete, the main thing is to have practical skills in construction.
What the system consists of, and the necessary set of tools and materials.
The provided built-in household exhaust system consists of:
- fan with grease catcher and local lighting;
- exhaust duct;
- transitional elements;
- corrugations, 115 mm in diameter;
- air duct, 300 mm long and 130 mm in diameter;
- ventilation hood with a non-return valve with a diameter of 130 mm.
Power is supplied through a plug socket located in the inner area of the hood.
Preliminary work.
Installing a cooker hood begins with determining its location. After that, circles are drawn on the support wall for an air duct with a section of 130 mm and a socket with a diameter of 65 mm. With the help of a perforator and a long drill, through holes are drilled along the contour of the future ventilation opening and in its center. An opening with a diameter of more than 130 mm is knocked out with a lance through the holes. With a crown or a drill (6 - 12 mm) and a lance, a place is prepared for a box for an outlet. From the junction box, in compliance with the installation standards for electrical systems, a strobe is punched or cut to the outlet, and a copper two-core wire with a cross section of two millimeters is laid, so that its ends hang from the listed boxes by 150-200 mm. Alabaster fixes a box for an outlet and a wire. An air duct with a cross section of 130 mm is installed on the cement mortar, at an inclination of 5 - 10 degrees to the street side.After the solution has dried, the wall is leveled with a starting and finishing putty.
Upon the solidification of the solution, finishing work is performed. The ends of the embedded wire are stripped of insulation and connected to the phase, zero and terminals of the socket, which is then installed in its proper place.
Exhaust system installation.
1. Installation of the visor. A visor with a check valve is attached to the facade of the building, according to the level.
In the event of a strong deflection along the vertical axis, the valve will be in a slightly open position during the shutdown of the air removal system.
2. Preparing the box. The built-in hood is mounted in a box with a depth of 305 mm, made of laminated chipboard (16 mm thick), and closed with an MDF facade. Other dimensions are shown in the photo.
In the back wall and in the shelf from chipboard with a jigsaw, through elements are cut out for corrugation (section 140 mm) and a socket, the end of which is protected from moisture by silicone. On the inner shelf, closer to the corner, a hole with a diameter of 8 - 10 mm is drilled to insert the electric cable.
The hood box is connected to other wall-mounted kitchen cabinets.
3. Fastening hanging boxes to the wall. Adjustable awnings are attached to the boxes.
On the wall, markings and fastening of the bar for the awnings are made. The boxes are hung up and set according to the level.
4. Installation of the transition. A transition from section 125 (outer dimension) to 115 mm (inner diameter) is inserted into the duct from the inside of the box.
5. Installation of a kitchen hood. A cable is passed through the prepared hole in the shelf, and the hood is immediately fixed to it. A plug is connected to the cable. One end of the 115 mm aluminum corrugation is inserted into the air duct, the other is clamped on the device branch pipe.
The plug is inserted into the socket and all operating modes of the device are checked.
Testing the cooker hood in winter.
In the process of research, at - 20 ° C and a simple stove (more than 12 hours), it turned out that if condensate forms, it does not enter either the kitchen or the facade of the building, the valve always remains free and the system works without interruptions. Based on the data obtained, we can conclude: small exhaust systems up to 1.5 m with an inclined air duct will not be covered with ice in winter.Not so long ago, when conducting private residential construction, the future owners of houses, if they considered ventilation issues, still pushed them into the background, not giving these problems proper attention. To a certain extent, such an approach was justified: the very structure of buildings, the material of their construction, the presence of stoves with chimney channels, the installation of non-tightness and door blocks - all this contributed to constant air circulation in the premises, which was enough to maintain a more or less acceptable microclimate.
However, the trend has now changed dramatically. New building and finishing materials have appeared, modern windows and doors are widely used, providing almost complete sealing of openings, the requirements for thermal insulation of buildings have increased, that is, during construction, they try to block as much as possible any heat leakage paths. The usual infiltration of air through building structures is clearly not enough, and therefore, even at the design stage, an efficient ventilation system is immediately envisaged.
With the change in living conditions, the owners of old houses have to take certain steps. And one of the most acceptable options, inexpensive and available for independent execution, is natural ventilation in a private house. This publication is devoted to this topic.
What functions should ventilation at home take on?
Is ventilation really necessary in order to attach such great importance to it? A similar question can only arise about an amateur. The need for a constant air exchange system can hardly be overestimated, both from the point of view of creating and maintaining the microclimate that is most comfortable for life and safe for the health of people, and from the standpoint of ensuring long-term trouble-free operation of the entire building as a whole.
- For normal life, people need oxygen in the air. In the process of breathing, it is gradually replaced by carbon dioxide, and if there is no constant replenishment of fresh air, then the atmosphere in a closed room becomes heavy, suffocating, causing rapid fatigue, lethargy, restless sleep or even more serious reactions in the form of shortness of breath, dizziness, seizures, etc. .p., especially in people suffering from chronic diseases respiratory system and circulatory system.
- Stagnation of air is a mandatory increase in the concentration of pathogens and allergens contained in a suspended state.
- There is no escape from the fact that human life is constantly accompanied by odors. This is sweat and other completely normal body secretions, the aroma of which is not particularly pleasant, these are perfumes and cosmetics, these are household chemicals and other sources. Let's add here some bad habits, in particular, smoking, as well as odors from pets. If constant effective ventilation is not provided, very quickly the atmosphere in living rooms will become unsuitable for normal stay in them.
- Homes with "amenities" on the street are practically a thing of the past. The comfort of living is associated with an equipped bathroom or at least a shower, a warm toilet or a combined bathroom. must be organized in such a way that the air, together with odors and steam from these rooms, does not penetrate into the living area, but is immediately discharged outside.
The kitchen always requires special attention. This is due to the increased temperature in this room during cooking, and with combustion products, if a gas stove is used, and with a lot of odors, pleasant and not so, with fatty vapors and a large amount of water vapor. All this should be immediately removed outside the house.
- The air exhaled by humans and animals always contains a high concentration of water vapor. In addition, a variety of household appliances - washing machines, dishwashers, irons, electric kettles, etc. contribute to excess humidity in rooms. Here you can add drying of the washed laundry, carried out by wet cleaning and other reasons. And high humidity, which has no way out due to lack or inadequate ventilation, is damp walls, which become a favorite "springboard" for the development of various microflora - fungus, mold, moss; frosts - windows covered with ice. And the durability resource of waterlogged building structures made of any material is sharply reduced.
- Unfortunately, not all is well with many materials widely used for decoration, insulation or for the manufacture of furniture. Many of them are capable of emitting substances that are very harmful to human health into the home atmosphere - formaldehyde, styrene and other toxic compounds. Ventilation helps to minimize the negative effect of such emissions.
If desired, this list can be continued. However, what has already been listed should be more than enough to understand the importance of well-equipped ventilation and imagine what a comfortable home can turn into in the absence of it.
In the design of any building in our time, special attention is paid to ventilation. If the owner, for one reason or another, got a house that was not equipped with such a system, he will have to do it urgently. And at first, it will be easiest to organize natural ventilation, since it usually does not require excessive costs and large-scale alterations inside the premises.
How natural ventilation works. Its advantages and disadvantages.
In what conditions is it possible to use natural ventilation
Ventilation of premises can be organized according to various schemes, but all of them can be divided into two main groups.
1. First a large group, which, in turn, is divided into several types - this is forced ventilation, the air flows in which are created due to one or another mechanical effect, provided by the operation of special fans. Such ventilation can be supply, exhaust, or combined. Such schemes are very complex, usually require a professional trip, but they allow you to control the quality of the air entering the premises, to carry out the necessary additional purification.
2. Second- this is natural ventilation considered in our article, which does not imply forced supply or extraction of air masses. All movement of streams is carried out exclusively by natural forces obeying the laws of physics.
- Temperature drop - warm air always has a lower density and, therefore, mass, in comparison with colder air, and therefore tends upward.
- Pressure drop: due to the height of the vertical ventilation ducts, a certain, albeit not so significant, pressure drop is created, which contributes to the movement of air.
- Impact of wind.
- The operation of natural ventilation does not accept the installation of any highly efficient filtering devices (except for them gratings or nets that do not let through, for example, fallen leaves, large debris, insects, etc.). These devices will make it difficult or even impossible for the normal movement of air flows from the street to the premises, which will lead to the inoperability of the entire system of the system as a whole. Thus, it makes sense to restrict natural ventilation only in conditions of clean air in the construction area.
It is clear that creating natural ventilation in a house located near a busy highway, where the air is saturated with exhaust and dust, is not a good solution. For the same reasons, such a scheme is not applied if an unpleasant smell is traditionally felt on the building site from nearby industrial enterprises, livestock complexes, treatment facilities, etc. Instead of improving the microclimate, the exact opposite effect will be obtained in the premises.
The noise level can also be attributed to a similar criterion for assessing the admissibility of natural ventilation (for example, a railway line or airport is not so far from the site). It should be remembered that such a ventilation scheme always reduces the overall sound insulation level of the house.
- Comfortable living conditions presuppose an optimal combination of several parameters - oxygen saturation of the air, its temperature and relative humidity. Practice shows that natural ventilation will maintain this balance only in a so-called inertial house.
This concept implies that the building was erected from materials capable of accumulating thermal energy - this includes bricks, gas silicate, expanded clay concrete, ceramic blocks, cinder blocks, adobe walls. At the same time, the house must have high-quality thermal insulation, made exclusively from the outside. Walls built of wood (logs or beams) or adobe have a certain inertia.
It is in such conditions, when the walls are able to accumulate the thermal potential, and then give it to the flow of incoming air, properly organized natural ventilation will work to improve the microclimate in the premises. The heated surfaces become a kind of recuperator, that is, they contribute to the rapid and high-quality heating of the incoming air.
Ventilation system prices
ventilation system
But in the so-called inertialess houses, the picture is completely different. Constantly penetrating free air flows from the outside lead to unjustifiably large heat losses, cool the house, and there is no need to talk about ensuring a normal balance of temperature and humidity. These buildings include buildings erected using frame technology, from sandwich panels, polystyrene concrete, vacuum blocks and a number of other modern building materials. In such conditions, the only correct solution is to use a well-thought-out forced ventilation system.
- Natural ventilation is more suitable for compact buildings, without long suites of rooms, outbuildings and outbuildings. Its creation becomes more complicated with the increase in the levels - the floors being built (this will be discussed below). It is practically inapplicable "in its pure form" or very ineffective for ventilation of a residential attic, due to the peculiarities of this room - here you will have to use a different scheme.
So, before you start creating a natural ventilation system, you should evaluate the listed evaluation criteria, and only then make a decision.
The principle of operation of the natural ventilation system of a country house
So, let's now consider what the fundamental device of natural ventilation of a private house is, how it works.
For the functionality of such a scheme, a set of supply and exhaust ducts is required with the provision of free, uncomplicated air movement between them.
Fresh air (shown by wide blue arrows) enters the premises through slightly open windows or special intake ventilation valves (pos. 1). There it heats up due to the action of heating devices, convection and heat transfer from structures accumulating thermal potential, displaces denser, carbon-dioxide-saturated "exhaust" air, which moves (wide green arrows) to the rooms in which the exhaust vents are installed. For its free movement along the route, either gaps between the floor surface and the door leaf, or through windows in the doors themselves (pos. 2) are provided.
Exhaust vents (item 3) are usually provided in the most "dirtiest" rooms that require maximum air exchange to remove odors, vapors or excess moisture. Here, the air flows of "exhaust" air (wide red arrows), picking up all these negative components, go out into the vents and move up the vertical ventilation ducts, due to the temperature and pressure differences already mentioned above.
These air ducts are led out through the attic and the roof and end with ventilation pipe heads above the roof surface (pos. 4). The placement of these pipes on the roof also obeys certain rules, which will be discussed below.
Thus, for the natural ventilation of the house as a whole to work effectively, each of the premises must be equipped with either an inlet channel (valve) or an outlet vent. A number of rooms assume the presence of both a valve and an outlet.
Duct prices
air ducts
When planning the location of the supply valves and ventilation vents, the following rules are followed:
- A supply valve (or another way of introducing clean air) must be provided in any of the living quarters, be it a bedroom, living room, nursery, study, dining room, etc.
- Ventilation ducts with vents are provided for:
- In the rooms of kitchens. It should be remembered that the presence of a kitchen hood above the stove does not eliminate the need for a ventilation vent.
- In bathrooms, toilets or combined bathrooms, home baths.
- In a dedicated room for home laundry.
- In closets, dryers, dressing rooms, if they go into the premises of the living area. If they are separated by a door from the corridor or kitchen, then a supply valve is installed in them.
- In a home workshop, if work in it may be accompanied by the appearance of vapors, smoke, unpleasant odors (welding, soldering, painting, the use of chemicals for various purposes - adhesives, mastics, solvents, technical liquids, etc.)
- A number of premises require the placement of both a supply valve and a ventilation outlet:
- Premises in which gas heating equipment is installed.
- A room in the living area, if there are more than two doors between it and the nearest ventilation duct.
- Living space combined with a kitchen, that is, for example, a kitchen-dining room.
- Home sports or gyms.
- A special approach is required for the premises of the second floor. The fact is that warm air from the first floor necessarily rises up, and an additional load falls on the ventilation system. Two options are possible here:
- If the second floor is separated from the staircase by a permanently closed door, then the approach to the placement of supply valves and exhaust vents remains practically the same. However, with a proviso - in the case when the second floor does not provide for "dirty" rooms (kitchen, bathroom, toilet, etc.), the vent can be located in the common hall (corridor), where all the rooms go.
- In the case when the second floor is not blocked by doors from the first, in each of the premises, regardless of its purpose, both a channel for the intake of fresh air and a ventilation outlet are provided.
In addition, the presence supply window and ventilation vents are mandatory for basement (basement) rooms and for the space under wood floors on the logs on the ground floor. But ventilation of basements is already a separate topic for more careful consideration, and in this publication it is "taken out of the brackets".
Advantages and disadvantages of a natural ventilation system at home
So which Benefits systems can be calculated if a natural ventilation scheme of a country house is chosen:
- Such a ventilation system requires minimal financial investment. Most of the work is quite accessible for independent conduct. True, if the house did not previously have exhaust ventilation ducts, you will have to work hard on this. The supply valves should not cause any special difficulties in installation.
- The system is reliable, primarily due to the fact that its design does not involve complex mechanisms - by and large, there is simply nothing to fail.
- Natural ventilation is easy to maintain. In principle, it boils down only to regular revision of the condition of the ventilation ducts and, if necessary, cleaning them.
- Such a system is completely non-volatile and does not require additional operating costs.
- The lack of mechanisms is also the absence of technological noise inherent in other types of forced ventilation.
However, we do not forget about sufficiently weighty disadvantages natural ventilation:
- In most cases, the supply ducts do not have high-quality filters (they would interfere with natural circulation), which means that the incoming air carries with it pollution, dust, odors, and pollen. Penetration of small insects is possible.
- Supply valves are a "gap" in the overall sound insulation of a house.
- The system is very difficult to quantify the volume of incoming air.
- Natural ventilation is extremely dependent on the season and even on the current and outdoor weather. In winter, when the temperature difference inside the house and outside is large, ventilation works "to the fullest", which often causes energy overruns for heating needs. A decrease in the supply of air from the outside (for example, by covering the supply valves) immediately gives rise to increased humidity - with all the ensuing consequences.
- In the summer heat, on the contrary, air circulation can slow down or even stop altogether. There is only one way out: to apply at this time a through ventilation scheme, opening windows on both sides of the house - air movement will be carried out due to the pressure difference on the leeward and windward sides. But at the same time, excess moisture and odors are likely to flow from the "dirty" premises into the living area.
There are many ways to optimize the work of natural circulation in one way or another - we will talk about this later.
Video: the principle of natural circulation and its seasonal features
How is the performance of a home's natural ventilation system calculated?
It is not enough to correctly determine the locations of the supply valves and exhaust ventilation vents. The ventilation system must have a certain capacity in order to ensure optimal air exchange in all areas of the house.
These requirements for the volume of air exchange are established by the current building codes and regulations for all residential and special premises of the building. From them and begin to "dance" when making calculations. An excerpt from these standards is shown in the table below:
| Room type | Minimum air exchange rates (rate per hour or cubic meters per hour) | |
|---|---|---|
| Inflow | EXTRACTOR | |
| Code of rules SP 55.13330.2011 to SNiP 31-02-2001 "Single-family residential buildings" | ||
| Residential premises with permanent residence of people | At least one volume exchange within an hour | - |
| Kitchen | - | 60 m³ / hour |
| Bathroom, toilet | - | 25 m³ / hour |
| Other premises | Not less than 0.2 volume per hour | |
| Code of rules SP 60.13330.2012 to SNiP 41-01-2003 "Heating, ventilation and air conditioning" | ||
| Minimum outdoor air consumption per person: living quarters with constant presence of people, in conditions of natural ventilation: | ||
| With a total living area of more than 20 m² per person | 30 m³ / hour, but at the same time not less than 0.35 of the total volume of apartment air exchange per hour | - |
| With a total area of less than 20 m² per person | 3 m³ / hour for each 1 m² of the area of the room | - |
| Code of rules SP 54.13330.2011 to SNiP 31-01-2003 "Residential apartment buildings" | ||
| Bedroom, nursery, living room | One-time volume exchange per hour | - |
| Cabinet, library | 0.5 of the volume per hour | - |
| Linen, pantry, dressing room | - | 0.2 of the volume per hour |
| Home gym, billiard room | 80 m³ / hour | |
| Kitchen with electric stove | - | 60 m³ / hour |
| Rooms with gas equipment | ||
| Room with a solid fuel boiler or stove | Single exchange + 100 m³ / hour for a gas stove | |
| Home laundry, dryer, ironing | - | 90 m³ / hour |
| Shower, bath, toilet or combined bathroom | - | 25 m³ / hour |
| Home sauna | - | 10 m³ / hour for each person |
In this case, premises with a permanent residence of people are understood as those in which the residents are for more than two hours. It is clear that in the conditions of an apartment, it is necessary to include all living rooms here, with the exception, perhaps, of those that are not used and are closed. In this case, for these living quarters, the air exchange rate is taken - 0.2 of the volume per hour.
The general calculation is usually carried out in this sequence.
A. They begin by determining the required volume of air flow into ventilated rooms equipped with supply valves.
If you look at the tables carefully, you will notice that the regulatory documents suggest several ways of calculating - from the total area of living quarters, from the volume of rooms (the rate of air exchange), and sometimes from the number of people who are constantly in the room. So, it is worth trying to carry out the calculations in several ways, and then choose the maximum from the results obtained.
Let us explain with an example:
- Residential building with an area of 70 m², home to three family members (more than 20 m² per person). In the bedroom with a total area of 16 square meters, two people are expected to stay permanently (more than 2 hours). If we calculate according to sanitary standards (SNiP 41-01-2003 "Heating, ventilation and air conditioning"), then the required air supply is at least 30 m³ / hour for each, that is, 60 m³ / hour.
Thus, from the two obtained values, we choose the maximum - 60 m³ / hour.
- The same house, but a children's room with an area of 13 m³, where one person is constantly staying. According to sanitary standards - 30 m³ / hour, according to the volume of a single air exchange from the area of the room - 39 m³ / hour. That is, the value is assumed to be 39 m³.
- Large living room (20 m²), where all family members gather and spend time together every day. Based on the norm of 30 m³ per person, this is 90 m³ / hour. If we count from the area (volume) of the room - 60 m³ / hour. Greater value is accepted.
- For a small office with an area of, for example, 11 m², the values will be approximately equal - 30 and 33 m³ / hour.
- A similar calculation is carried out for each of the rooms where air supply ducts will be provided. Then the maximum values are summed up - the result will show how much air needs to be launched into the residential building. Let's say, in our example, the total volume of required air exchange was 192 m³ / hour.
To simplify the calculations of the required air intake, you can use the calculator proposed below, which contains the basic relationships in accordance with the current SNiP.