Secrets of the correct vapor barrier of walls and ceiling of a bath. Sauna vapor barrier - for water procedures in ideal conditions Vapor barrier materials for a sauna

When building a bath on your own, you need to take into account many factors. Starting from the choice of a place for laying the foundation, material for walls and roofs, ending, at first glance, with such trifles as hydro and steam baths.

Let's look at an example. We will take as a basis a bathhouse, cut from a bar 150 mm thick, where the walls are decorated with wooden lining:

• in the presence of insulation and vapor barrier in the bath, heat loss per 1 sq. m. walls will be 28 W / sq.m.
• without the use of thermal insulation materials, the heat loss will be equal to 52 W / m2.

Thus, if thermal insulation is not used, additional energy costs are required for heating the bath and maintaining the desired temperature inside the steam room.

Foundation waterproofing

The foundation is one of the main vapor barrier zones. Saturated with groundwater, the soil freezes in winter, creating the danger of deformation of the structure, the appearance of cracks in the foundation. To avoid this, waterproofing is required.

A layer of waterproofing mastic is laid on the concrete blank. The base of the mastic is a high quality insulating bitumen, which includes a corrosion inhibitor and an antiseptic. No toxic solvents. It is used in conditions of weak and medium - aggressive soils.

The main characteristics of the mastic:

• Water absorption per day - no more than 0.4% by weight
• Average consumption with a layer thickness of 0.5 mm - 0.5 l / m 2
• Drying time for one layer - no more than 24 hours

The use of waterproofing mastic prolongs the life of the foundation.

As soon as the waterproofing is done, it is necessary to insulate the "sole" of the building. The most advantageous option is to use polystyrene foam. We glue the base with 5 cm wide sheets of heat insulator in a checkerboard pattern.

Vapor barrier of the walls of the bath

The main task of the steam room in the bath is the ability to retain heat. Indeed, in the winter time in the bathhouse there must be a guaranteed high temperature inside the room. If there is no vapor barrier, then the steam accumulated in the room escapes through the walls. If the bath is not insulated, then the steam, passing through the wooden lining, condenses between the wall and the cladding. As a result, droplets of accumulated water contribute to the processes of decay and mold formation.

IMPORTANT ! Only professional installation from insulation and vapor barrier will preserve the structure of the bath

Insulation of walls from the inside

To insulate the walls from the inside, a heat-insulating material is laid between the wooden frame and the wall. The main thing is to choose correctly which vapor barrier material is best for the bath.

Remember! glass wool, mineral wool, basalt are not used as insulation for the walls of the bath!

You can use:

Thermal insulation materials are laid in the space between the racks made of wood or metal profile... The plates are fastened with special glue or plastic dowels. If the sheets are larger than the opening between the bars, then a tighter fit will provide high-quality insulation of the room. If necessary, fill the gaps with construction foam.

On top of the insulation, foil is attached to the strips, with an overlap of 10-15 cm. The joints are glued with aluminum tape for tightness. The foil prevents heated steam from escaping, thereby keeping the room warm. But due to the high thermal conductivity of aluminum, part of the heat passes further, where it is retained by the insulation. So, such a design: insulation + foil insulator is the best option for vapor barrier of a bath.

But there is a more profitable solution, from an economic point of view. This is the use of foil-clad material that combines insulation and vapor barrier at once.

Foil insulation does not absorb, but reflects thermal energy and can be used to enhance the "thermos" effect. Thermal insulation material prevents cold air from entering the room and sends warm air into the steam room.

There are many foil-clad materials, here are some of them:

When installing reflective insulation, it is necessary to leave an air space between the film and the decoration of the room. To do this, use a crate over the "mirror".

Bath ceiling vapor barrier

Thermal protection of the ceiling in the bath is extremely important. Hot air easily rises up and out. In order to prevent heat loss, the surface is insulated in an open or closed way.

An open way is provided for a bath without a "work" attic. The wooden sheathing is waterproofed with a reflective film, and then covered with a heat insulator. As a backfill, a layer of sawdust and a layer of dry earth are used, expanded clay is also used in insulation, with a layer thickness of at least 25 cm.

At closed way vapor barrier, it is possible to use the attic as an additional room. "Pie" is mounted according to the standard scheme: vapor barrier membrane + mineral plate + waterproofing membrane. Then they close them with boards attached to the logs.

Hydro and vapor barrier membranes are used as a hydro-barrier. Membranes are designed to protect against the penetration of water vapor from the inside of the room and against the effects of moisture in the external environment.

Membrane vapor barrier for a bath

Yutafol vapor barrier is a membrane consisting of 3-4 layers with microperforation. At the heart of the reinforcement mesh is made of polyethylene, on which several layers of polyethylene film are applied. Microscopic perforation in the film creates a vapor barrier effect. There are several types of membranes, one of which has an additional foil layer. All Yutafol membranes have a long service life and are manufactured according to the standards for vapor barrier. Double-sided lamination of the film greatly improves its insulating properties. During installation, the film is laid so that its aluminum surface is directed towards the interior of the room. The membranes are connected to each other with special aluminum tape.

Waterproofing membranes "Megaspan" - scope: protection of insulation and internal elements of the roof from wind, rain. The waterproofing agent promotes the removal of water vapor from the roofing space and insulation, helps to extend the service life of the insulation and the entire structure as a whole. The membrane is laid on the outside of the insulation under the roofing.

Warm humid steam is the basis of the microclimate in the bath, which contributes to the greatest comfort in taking hygienic procedures. But its properties differ from ordinary air at room temperature, including density and pressure.

Competently equipped vapor barrier in the bath – part of the walls and ceiling insulation. The durability of this specific structure largely depends on it, no matter what building materials a bath, steam room or sauna is built from.

Steam is harmful to many building materials, including metal, untreated wood, especially when cooled, when condensation forms on the surface. Any building, residential or auxiliary, involves a multi-layer arrangement of the surface of the floor, walls and ceiling. This is necessary to ensure:

• insulation;
• waterproofing;
• energy saving;
• long-term and flawless operation of the building.

A vapor barrier is not only a protective membrane or foil vapor barrier for a bath. This is a whole range of measures, including the processing of building materials, tightness of joints, protection of insulation from water penetration.

It is difficult to remove moisture that has got into basalt wool, ecowool or other porous material. It reduces thermal insulation properties, especially in extreme frosts, when it becomes ice. Excessive humidity without air circulation - favorable environment for putrefactive and pathogenic bacteria, the development of mold and mildew.

The complex of measures also includes natural and forced ventilation, which ensures a decrease in air humidity with an influx of oxygen after the completion of water and hygiene procedures.

Steam is dangerous because hot moisture quickly penetrates into building materials and settles in the insulating layer. The deposited condensation leads to the gradual destruction of surfaces. Its pressure is higher than the standard atmospheric pressure, and this negatively affects structures and finishing materials. As it cools, a dew point forms when the steam becomes water and condenses out, destroying metal (corrosion) and wood. Materials with high vapor permeability "breathe", that is, they absorb excess moisture, then release it when the air humidity decreases.

Part of the latest generation is produced in multi-layer, with an energy-saving interlayer, in order to make them more economical with thoughtful construction of baths. A competent device for vapor barrier of a sauna or steam room increases the efficiency of heating devices, significantly reduces the loss of electricity.

Multilayer and membrane materials provide an optimal microclimate when organizing thermal insulation for a bath. They also have other properties - additional waterproofing and wind protection.

The most common materials for steam insulation in a bath

Modern technology of vapor barrier for a bath is carried out both by "old-fashioned" methods and by the latest technologies. This is facilitated by the emergence of high-tech materials on the building materials market, the addition of new layers to the "classical" heat and vapor insulation. For example, reflective insulation in the form of aluminum foil or breathable glassine with impregnation.

The construction market is replete with offers in the niche of materials for arranging vapor barrier. Among them, Izospan, Armitex, Penoplex are gaining popularity. Ordinary plastic wrap is replaced with specialized membranes, but the obsolete roofing felt and roofing felt are still used in summer cottage construction.

It is undesirable to use such old-style materials in a steam bath - they contain resins that release formaldehydes when heated with steam. And glassine is preferable to use only because of the minimal ability to reflect moisture from the surface of the walls.

Companies engaged in the construction of sanitary facilities and other structures of similar functionality do not save on materials. When building a summer cottage on your own, you have to choose practical and affordable materials on your own. Primary requirements:

• opposition to the combustion process;
• environmental friendliness;
• operational reliability;
• resistance to rotting and decay;
• heat resistance;
• moisture resistance.

Clay or a mixture of oily clay with sawdust is used less and less today, but it is the most affordable, proven over the years, eco-material. Although the sawdust itself is flammable, it makes the coating mix more resistant to cracking. For walls, a layer of 2 cm is enough. The main property of clay is that it "breathes", that is, it absorbs excess moisture, and then gives off when it dries. And the heat only makes it harder.

Temples were even built on this property in Vietnam - bales of straw were coated on the outside with clay and burned from the inside. These temples are still standing.

Foil materials

Aluminum foil is used for sheathing unprotected surfaces and porous thermal insulation. It is known for its maximum ability to reflect heat into the steam room and repel moisture from the surface of the walls. It does not react to high temperatures, does not have toxic fumes, does not deform, and is resistant to mechanical stress.

Like any metal, when the foil cools sharply, it forms condensation, so it is not recommended to open the doors abruptly in frosty weather with excessive humidity. If this is a multi-layer vapor barrier system for a steam room, and the room itself is sufficiently insulated and air-conditioned, then these manifestations should not exist.

Foil-clad material gives the best insulating properties in combination with a full-fledged multi-layer insulation and an air gap between it and the reflective layer. Insulation with sheets of aluminum foil is performed with an overlap, the lower edge is brought to the floor, and the joints are treated with special tape for foil insulation.

The latest generation of 3-in-1 multi-layer materials used for complete insulation are often foil-coated. They combine several functions:

• thermal protection;
• vapor barrier;
• the ability to reflect heat into the room (does not transmit thermal and infrared radiation).

Film materials

A film vapor barrier or a protective membrane is completely reliable. Like any other film, it makes a deceiving impression, but it is tear-resistant and not subject to deformation during operation. With it, it is easy to protect multilayer insulation from warm steam.

It is used indoors on top of porous materials, covering the surface of the insulated ceiling or walls. But if the joints of the membrane are not tightly connected or a hole is made during installation, then its vapor barrier properties will be minimized.

The easiest way is to attach the film to the slats of the wooden ceiling lathing on top of mineral wool (another insulation between the beams) with the staples of a construction stapler. The canvases are not pulled very tightly, leaving minimal sagging, the sides of the membrane are overlapped. The seams of the film strips are fixed with special tape.

Membrane materials

The most reliable vapor barrier membrane is multilayer with mesh reinforcement. Reinforcement protects film materials from deformation during temperature extremes; therefore, such membranes are the most durable.

Do not stretch membrane materials so that they can react to temperature fluctuations with little or no expansion. From a heavy load, with improper installation and a large temperature amplitude, it gradually loses its elasticity - let it sag slightly between the slats.

Modern materials

• Kraft paper is a type of technical cardboard that is widely used in construction. The vapor barrier coefficient is much lower than that of the membrane, but the material "breathes". It is recommended to use for auxiliary rooms of the bath - changing room, dressing room, rest room. Excessive moisture destroys it, like any cardboard.

• Penotherm is considered a high-tech heat and vapor barrier material that has proven itself in steam rooms. Produced in the form of foamed boards with a protective layer, it perfectly tolerates high humidity and temperature.

• Among the materials of the new generation, used simultaneously as a thermal barrier and a vapor barrier for a bath, experts single out penofol and related headings. These are multilayer roll materials based on foamed polymers. The foil-protected polypropylene layer has good thermal insulation.

Such materials protect the walls from steam penetration, reflect infrared and thermal radiation into the interior, therefore they make the bath more economical when heating up and maintaining the required temperature. They prevent the formation of condensation in the thermal insulation layers, serve for a long time and flawlessly. The material works great in a sauna or steam room, but do not overheat above + 100 ° C, so as not to destroy the inner layer.

Although manufacturers write high temperature limits, this refers to a short-term one-time amplitude jump. From constant overheating, any foamed polymer begins to thicken, decompose into toxic components, melt or gradually char. For the body, a record temperature is a great stress on survival, a colossal load on the brain, heart and blood vessels!

Izospan is also recommended by specialists in the construction of baths as one of the best proposals in the construction market. It is produced in rolls of 35m, which contain a protective layer of aluminum foil and a reinforced insulation. The material does not emit toxic substances when overheated, does not deform and is considered an excellent vapor barrier, easy to install and reliable in use.

Two-layer roll material, from the inside - a rough layer for collecting condensate, after normalizing the air humidity in the bath, it evaporates it. It is reliable in operation, has high protective characteristics when arranging a vapor barrier from inside the premises. There are several varieties of them; to protect the thermal insulation of a bath from steam, isospan B film is more suitable. It is also widely used:

• multilayer insulation of attics and attic and all types of sloped roofs;
• internal and frame walls;
• basement and interfloor floors.

Izospan of groups A, C, D and AM is also offered on the construction market. Its varieties are used for complex insulation and protection against condensation in roof and wall structures. All varieties are characterized by high level protection from the main factors with a negative impact on the building materials of the frame, roof and walls of the building. The foil surface is capable of reflecting up to 90% of thermal radiation into the room. This allows you to minimize heat loss when heating a house or heating a bath.

Fiberglass belongs to a group of high-tech materials that are widely used in construction and decoration (glass wallpaper for painting). It does not burn, protects surfaces from negative effects, bends well and folds into rolls, unlike glass. Due to its resistance to decomposition, it is often used in steam rooms - it does not emit toxic substances when overheated.

Polyethylene film was used to waterproof the bathhouse when there were no last generation membranes. But it also prevents steam from penetrating into the thermal insulation layers. It does not tolerate temperature extremes, loses its elasticity and collapses over time. Can be used only in this bath, which is rarely used and does not warm up much. It is important to fix it well on the crate with a stapler and seal the seams with heat-resistant tape. It is advisable to make a small gap between the mineral insulation and the film to make room for condensation flowing down.

Each variety has its own advantages and disadvantages. Obsolete roll materials are more affordable, but they do not have the advantages that are inherent in the latest generation of multilayer membrane and foil insulation materials. For a summer cottage, used occasionally in summer period, you can use the budget option.

In the sauna, steam room, bath, which is used year-round, with a high temperature load, a universal multilayer vapor barrier with insulation is used. Do not forget about ventilation and the possibility of removing condensate from the insulation, if it forms there, so as not to get damp.

The vapor barrier of the bath ceiling is another topical topic that I would like to consider separately. Of particular interest are, of course, the materials available on the market, which we will list and describe below.

What is it for?

The main purpose of this structural element of the ceiling cake is to protecting the rest of its elements from getting wet.

Everything seems to be clear. However, a natural question arises: is it needed in the entire bath or can it be limited to the rooms that are the most humid - the steam room and the washing room?

The answer to this is simple: no, you cannot limit yourself to a steam room and a washing room, because vapor control is part of the standard ceiling pie, no matter what room it is being built in. Why is that?

Because the main element that needs protection is thermal insulation material lying on the level above. Since in most cases it is mineral wool, the mats of which are the most affordable and convenient to install, one has to take into account such a property of this material as the sensitivity to the accumulation of condensate in its thickness.

The fact is that moisture accumulating between the fibers of stone wool, in a significant way reduces its thermal insulation properties. After all, the main heat insulator is always air. We simply create a heat-resistant environment for it in the form of thin mineral wool fibers or clay partitions in expanded clay balls. Water, on the other hand, connects the fibers (this does not apply to expanded clay, there is fired clay, and water does not enter the balls), improving the conduction of heat through this medium.

Condensation forms not only when the room is very humid, but also when it exists. temperature difference between what's inside and what's outside. And humidity is present in every room and outside it, it is a natural component of the air.

CONCLUSION! Ceiling insulation is more a tribute to the properties of a heat insulator and wooden structures, which also do not tolerate moisture well, collapsing from it, rather than characteristic feature baths or specifically steam rooms with a washing room.

In the Russian steam room

The above does not mean at all that a steam room or a washing room does not need increased protection from moisture. Steam- these are water droplets heated and suspended in the air, rising up to the ceiling. If you do not put an obstacle, they will go higher, settling on the colder parts of the structures.

By the amount of steam Russian steam room second only to the Turkish hammam, but it is usually finished with tiles or mosaics, which makes it less sensitive. The Russian steam room, by tradition, is finished with wood, and if its surface layer, for example, lining, is inevitably sacrificed and takes all the blows of high temperature and humidity, then the inner layers can (and should) be protected.

We will tell you about the methods of vapor barrier of the ceiling in the bath just below, while it is important to draw conclusions - the Russian steam room clearly needs a thoughtful and powerful vapor barrier. Does the same apply to the sauna?

In the bath-sauna

It is not for nothing that the Finnish bath is called "dry-air". In the orthodox version, the humidity in the sauna minimal, component no more than 5-15%. The Finns do not particularly pour water on the stones, which is quite understandable - they lay them either in a slide on the top of the stove, or in a grid that encloses the body, and this does not give the stones such heating, which is needed to obtain light, finely dispersed steam. Instead of this the steam is thick and heavy.

Besides, high temperatures the Finnish steam room does not contribute to the person's easily accepting excess steam.

IMPORTANT! There is a rule - the higher the temperature, the less steam is needed for the comfortable well-being of people in the steam room. The converse is also true.

The third essential property of a sauna is vigorous air exchange, which is arranged using natural or forced ventilation.

To summarize: the sauna has good ventilation and high temperature, both helps to eliminate excess moisture, so even surface layer the ceiling will not suffer much during the procedures. However, the insulation of the ceiling is mandatory, which means that it is necessary to take care that the insulation does not collect condensation, even due to the temperature difference. So you still need to isolate him, except that the vapor barrier itself may be standard, but (since the temperature in the sauna is high) it must be designed to withstand the effects of heat.

Competent waterproofing of the top of the insulation will also help, but more on that later.

What is the difference between vapor barrier and waterproofing

Vapor barrier films

This is an interesting question. In fact, in both cases, we are talking about the effect of moisture, just in the first, an increased temperature is added to it. Therefore, it would be correct to use these concepts and related materials somehow like this:

• vapor barrier is done from within premises so that the water vapor that has arisen inside does not turn into condensation, colliding with the cold of the external environment;
• waterproofing is done primarily to protect against moisture entering from outside, and it can be in the form of water vapor, and in the form of precipitation.

When it comes to ceiling insulation, vapor barrier- this is the bottom layer, waterproofing- upper layer. However, if the bath has a second floor with a residential attic, then the term "waterproofing" becomes somewhat arbitrary, because the protection is carried out from all the same vapors, only in the insulation.

Hence, probably, the constant confusion that can often be found in descriptions.

REMEMBER! There is also a purely mechanical difference between the materials used for vapor and waterproofing. The vapor barrier does not "breathe" at all, it is designed not to let anything pass through itself at all - neither air, nor vapor, nor liquid. And waterproofing is preferable to breathe, that is, it is capable of releasing water vapor in one direction, and in the opposite direction - to prevent their penetration.

If this is taken into account, do not make any mistakes either with the steam or with the waterproofing of the ceiling in the bath. Here's another video for you that will reinforce what has been said (advertising, of course, but you don't have to watch it until the end):

What types can be found on sale

And again it is interesting to figure out what a vapor barrier film for a ceiling is, what can they offer us in a store? In general, it is probably worth clarifying right away that the class of vapor barrier films is far from all that can be found on sale. It is worth telling about such a popular foil, and about foil materials, and much more.

Vapor barrier films

There are polyethylene and polypropylene. The difference, as you can imagine, is in polymers. Polypropylene is more expensive, its melting point is 40 degrees higher than that of polyethylene (better for a bath), but it is more fragile and 10 times worse withstands frost (PE - up to -50, and PP - up to -5), PP more elastic, but still less durable.

Also, the film may or may not be present. perforation. Since we are talking about a vapor barrier, it cannot be perforated and at the same time single-layer. Therefore, perforation is only allowed in the second layer.

ATTENTION! According to the rules, the perforated side turns outward from the insulation.

The advantages of perforation are questionable - during operation, these holes are easily clogged with dust.

IMPORTANT! Do not confuse perforated films and real membranes - they are not at all the same thing, even if they tell you that they both "breathe". Even if you use this verb, they do it differently.

Reinforced and not reinforced... An ordinary film is not reinforced with anything, but you can easily distinguish a reinforced one - it has a thread base made of another material. They reinforce the film with the sole purpose of increasing its strength. And it really helps, it is more difficult to damage it mechanically.

Reflective Foil Vapor Control Film

Another way to improve the properties of conventional films is foiling. A thin layer of metal makes such a film reflective of infrared radiation. On the other hand, brittle polymer-based foil becomes more durable.

Concerning anti-condensation films, then they are not for vapor barrier and not for the ceiling - they are for waterproofing the roof.

Foil

But this is generally the favorite of those bathhouse owners who want to keep warm and put a reliable barrier for steam. Aluminium foil absolutely impenetrable for steam. However, the rolls have a limited width, so you have to overlap and seal the joints, and the seams are always imperfect. So, if any moisture penetrates the insulation, it is not the fault of the foil itself.

ATTENTION! Steam protection is secondary to the foil, its main purpose is to reflect infrared radiation back into the steam room. Moreover, it is placed exclusively in a steam bath.

Many people dislike upholstering the ceiling in the bath with pure foil because of its fragility- it breaks easily, in addition, it is easy to cut yourself on it, this material requires great care in work.

Therefore, the sale is full of combined materials - the foil increases the operating temperature range of the used films, and they, in turn, protect it from tearing. In addition, the presence of a polymer substrate allows you to make the foil layer thinner - in its pure form, you simply could not put it with such a thickness.

Many film companies have expanded their range with foil-clad materials, so when we get to specific names, just keep in mind that they most likely have them.

Now is not the time to argue about whether you need foil in the bath or not. In essence, all questions of this kind can be reduced to one thing: does a person know the materials enough to get exactly the desired effect or does not know. And the circumstances can be very different.

Roofing material or glassine

Both are the result oil bitumen impregnation of cardboard... Both can be used, in principle, for the vapor barrier of the bath ceiling, however, we would still not recommend these two materials. over the steam room.

However, you may not listen to our opinion, because the temperatures in the steam room are different for everyone, and the ceilings themselves will not be the same, so in some cases such a vapor barrier may be quite acceptable.

Since we are talking about materials enough cheap, they can be used in low-cost construction, when, for example, a flat ceiling scheme is used. In this case, roofing material or glassine is placed directly on the boards of the floor ceiling from the side of the attic and serves as a substrate for the insulation.

Kraft paper

This is a great option for those who decide to warm up. ecowool. Vapor barrier kraft paper is a cardboard that can be single layer or two-layer. Coating polymer film can be on one side of a single layer cardboard or between two layers of a double layer. For greater strength can be added reinforcing mesh, which is also located between the layers of cardboard.

This paper is produced in Finland, designed to insulate environmentally friendly insulation made of cellulose or linen fiber.

ON A NOTE! Building board is vapor-permeable without film.

Can kraft paper be used with other types of insulation, such as mineral wool? Yes, you can.

Foil Kraft Paper

Izospan

Well, let's see what it is. This is a material that consists of three layers of polymers, two of which are exactly polypropylene. The first layer of polypropylene is a regular film, it is smooth. In the middle (second layer) there is a reinforcing mesh, the material of which is not specified. The third layer is a non-woven material, all of the same polymer. Nonwovens (= something like felt) are usually used to create an anti-condensation layer, in this case its use is not entirely clear.

Izospan V for a bath on the ceiling

However, in addition to the vapor barrier of the ceiling insulation, this type of film can also be used for waterproofing, for example, floors and roofs. Let's attribute the rough third layer to the needs of waterproofing. Although this is a little strange - if the film is vapor-insulating, then it is impermeable to vapors, if the waterproofing film is permeable. What is a universal film that can be used here and there? Mystery. At least for us.

V technical characteristics it is said that Izospan B vapor tight, its temperature regime is -60 + 80 degrees. In terms of temperature characteristics, it is not particularly suitable for a steam room. In other rooms, if desired, you can use it.

A little about manufacturers and their products

Armitex-75- analogue of Izospan V. Only without reinforcing mesh, seems to be. Has a smooth and rough side. The manufacturer advises to turn the rough side to the insulation.

Czechs release films under the label Jutafol(Yutafol). They have several types of films only as a vapor barrier, they are all included in the group Yutafol N. Among other things, there you can find films with a reagent, which leads to the damping of the flame, preventing a fire. There are reinforced, there are foil.

Luxembourg company DuPont produces a foil vapor barrier called AirGuard® Reflective.

Poles make films Folder of the following varieties: Minima H 98, Silver H 98 and Alum H 90. The numbers refer to grams per square meter. The latter is foil, suitable for baths and saunas. Others, however, are also fine. Minima is not as strong as Silver.

Russian-Polish film Optima B suitable for insulation insulation. It is a two-layer film with a density of 75 g / m2, with smooth and rough sides.

The company that produces the popular roofing material ondulin, is also engaged in the production of roofing films. There are also vapor barrier ones among them. This Ondutis R 70, RV, RS and Thermo. The latter is foil-coated, RV has no reinforcement, but RS has, and RS can be considered an analogue of Yutafol standard 110. Thermo is suitable for steam room ceilings, because the foil there is protected by a polyester layer with a melting point of 200 degrees!

Technology: DIY

We will not talk again about how grazing and hemming ceilings. You can read about it.

When we already have rough ceiling of one type or another, a layer of vapor barrier material can be attached to it.

Foil and foil-clad polymers are attached from below, from the side of the steam room. Moreover, it is worth remembering that 10-15 cm are still being entered. The strips are overlapped, also 10-15 cm. It is advisable to seal the fastening with a stapler and joints with metallized tape.

But films you can put it from the side of the attic directly on the "floor", and on them, without any intermediate material, you can put insulation - even mineral wool, even ecowool, even expanded clay or something else.

Do not forget that the top of the insulation is covered with a vapor-PERMEABLE waterproofing.

In principle, films could also be attached from below, like foil. Both are valid... Actually, the entire vapor barrier of the ceiling in the bath with your own hands comes down to either hemming it from the bottom, from the side of the ceiling, or laying it on top, from the floor of the attic or attic.

And all the subtleties are neat sealing joints and transition on the walls. That's all. Of the tools, you will need a stapler and scissors as the main ones.

Folk methods and materials of isolation

Progress has both disadvantages and advantages. But when it comes to vapor barrier, traditional methods of making ceilings vapor proof are very dubious when compared to what modern technology has given us.

Just for reference: ceilings in Russia in log buildings were made on three beams fixed on opposite walls of the log house. Poles were laid across these beams - they were logs or half-logs. It was they who formed the basis of the then ceiling. Of course, between the poles formed cracks.

So, the only analogue of a vapor barrier in the then arrangement of floors can be covering these cracks with clay... Yes, but as a heater they put everything on top of them - straw, and even hay, and yarn, and hemp, and flax, and twigs, and dry leaves ... In general, what was at hand was put.

For reference, we have studied a part of the archaeological book about construction in Russia in the X-XI centuries. Now think for yourself - why bother so much when, even with the smallest budget, you can buy plastic wrap and protect the attic space from steam with it?

Useful video

This video will help you distinguish different types film materials to protect the ceiling and roof:

Let's summarize: if we had at our disposal a heater that would not suffer from moisture penetration into it at all, the whole technology of arranging a standard ceiling and roof in a bath would change. But while we are betting on mineral wool, you will have to do vapor barrier and waterproofing. Foam plastics, of course, do not suffer from moisture, but they try not to use them in the bath.

In contact with

Previously, baths were built only from natural wood, no additional internal and external cladding was done. Wooden walls“Breathed”, which allowed them to constantly maintain optimal values ​​of relative humidity. In addition, during washing, the inner surfaces of the walls were heated to high temperatures, which excluded the appearance of a dew point on them, even at a relative humidity of 100%. All building structures (not only wooden ones) are afraid not so much of steam as of water, and water is condensation.

Why vapor barrier is needed

Nowadays, most of the baths are cladded. interior walls- it is beautiful, useful and prestigious. The walls are usually sheathed with natural clapboard. From the point of view of the designer, everything is fine, but from the point of view of the builder, there are big problems.

1. An additional "heat-shielding" wall is formed between the load-bearing wall and the steam room. This is good, heat loss is minimized, but it causes condensation.
2. Due to the low thermal conductivity of wood, the difference in temperature between the lining and the wall is large. It is already necessary to look at such a situation from two sides. The good news is that the steam room is kept warm. The bad thing is that steam easily passes into the joints of the forcing, the relative humidity of the tree rises.

So we come to the main problem. If the temperature of the lining is so high that condensation does not form with the existing humidity, then the wall temperature is below the dew point. Condensation forms on the cold walls and is absorbed into all materials of the outer walls: wood blocks, bricks. Due to the fact that there is almost no natural ventilation between the cladding and the wall, water does not evaporate. As a result, the tree begins to rot, the red brick crumbles, and the concrete materials with micropores transfer moisture to all adjacent structures.

Vapor barrier and wall insulation

But these are not all the reasons why a vapor barrier should be used. Let's touch on the issue of bath insulation. Insulating the outside is a waste of money and time. Until the insulation "shows its effectiveness", no one will wash in the bath. The heating time for cladding and walls is several hours. Only then will the internal heat "reach" the insulation outside the outer walls and it will be able to "work". The effect will no longer be during the heating of the steam room, but during its cooling down after washing. To "enjoy" the effectiveness of external thermal insulation, you need to stay overnight in the steam room.

This means that for steam rooms, the insulation needs to be installed only inside. But here, too, a problem arises. Most often, mineral wool, glass wool or polystyrene is used as insulation. The latter is not environmentally friendly, it emits harmful chemical compounds especially during heating. Sanitary authorities categorically do not recommend using it for steam rooms. Mineral wool or glass wool remains.

Mineral wool has two "unpleasant" properties. First, with an increase in the relative humidity, the thermal conductivity characteristics decrease significantly. This is what some "experts" write, although the characteristics increase, the thermal conductivity increases, and the heat saving decreases. Do you feel the difference? Three times - cotton wool dries for a very long time, there is almost no air movement in it. Which is natural, otherwise the heat would not be retained in the room. Insulation is always attached to the walls, regardless of the material of their manufacture. And prolonged contact with wet wool has an extremely negative effect on all building materials. Here is another reason why you need to use a vapor barrier in the bath.

If you figured out these questions, you can familiarize yourself with various vapor barrier materials and their physical characteristics.

Types and characteristics of vapor barrier materials

There are quite a few of them, let's dwell on only a few of the most frequently used ones. Let's start again with a small "educational program". Some amateur builders do not fully understand the difference between vapor barrier and waterproofing materials. After all, steam is the same water. Why should some materials be used for vapor barrier and others for waterproofing?

The fact is that water molecules and vapor molecules have different sizes. Based on these characteristics, manufacturers produce materials with different micropore diameters. Some do not allow vapor molecules (vapor barrier) to pass through, while others do not allow water molecules to pass through. This means that vapor barrier materials can be used as waterproofing, while the latter cannot be used in the same way. Recently, the production of steam-waterproofing fabrics has begun, they consist of two layers with different diameters micropores. During the installation of such materials, you need to monitor the location of these sides, so as not to install "exactly the opposite."

What vapor barrier materials are produced?

Material Description

	The cheapest, but pretty good option. It has one more significant advantage. Films are produced in double-walled sleeves, sleeve widths up to three meters. Cutting the sleeve in half, you get a continuous film canvas more than five meters wide - quite enough to cover the bathhouse wall with a solid material without overlays.
	They are rarely used in baths due to the likelihood of unpleasant odors.
	Most often used, multi-component materials have a small layer of thermal protection or special fibers to prevent condensation from dripping.
	An excellent vapor barrier material, can be applied on surfaces of any complexity and configuration.
	In addition to their main tasks for insulation, they have a sealed outer surface that does not allow steam to pass through. Universal application, high performance characteristics.

You can find the advice of "experts", inciting in the vapor barrier materials to make small holes through which air will pass, and the structure allegedly will not suffer from high humidity. There is nothing to say, it is better to remain silent. During the installation of a vapor barrier the main condition for efficiency is the complete absence of gaps, overlaps of materials must be sealed with ordinary tape (cheaper option) or special metallized tape (more expensive option). The presence of any cracks negates all activities.

Laying the material strictly without gaps

How fewer holes has material during fixing, the better protection. Try to use double-sided tape or silicone glue whenever possible. Of course, the choice of adhesive must be consistent with the physical characteristics of the vapor barrier. Now we will consider two options for performing work: for a bath with brick walls and a ceiling.

Such baths are very rare, they are elite and expensive buildings. Their vapor barrier is quite complex, in most cases two-layer. Brick baths must have insulation on the walls, and it is highly desirable on the inside. Why so - we have already told above.

Step 1. Selection and calculation of the amount of materials. The number is easy to calculate: measure the squaring of all surfaces and increase the resulting number by ten percent. It is more difficult with the selection of materials. As we have already noted, only materials that are safe for health can be used for thermal insulation of indoor baths. Not "environmentally friendly", as it is fashionable to say now, but rather safe.

Environmentally friendly materials are materials that do not harm the environment (clay, sand, etc.), and during the production of all artificial materials, environmental damage is caused. This means that mineral wool is a safe material for health, but it cannot be called environmentally friendly. We will focus on mineral wool; we will take composite foil as a vapor barrier material.

Step 2... Surface preparation. Mineral wool must be protected from two sides: from the side of the wall from condensate moisture and from the side of the bath from steam. Carefully inspect the surface of the wall, remove any sharp protrusions. The fact is that most vapor barrier materials are not highly durable, sharp protrusions can damage them, and this will significantly reduce efficiency.

Step 3... Attach a waterproofing layer to the wall to prevent the mineral wool from absorbing water from the relatively cold brickwork. You can use any cheap materials, the best option is liquid rubber. When fixing the insulation, try to get by with the minimum number of holes in the material. If you use roll coverings, then they are fixed with wooden slats, between which mineral wool will be laid. The width of the slats should correspond to the thickness of the mineral wool, the distance between them is about 40 ÷ 50 centimeters.

Step 4... Place rock wool in the free space between the slats and the wall, making sure not to gaps. To ensure natural ventilation, a gap must be made between the insulation and the casing.

Step 5. We recommend using a composite material for vapor barrier: aluminum foil coated with polyurethane foam. It is stronger than ordinary aluminum film and has, albeit a little, insulation. This material can be bent at different angles and can withstand quite high tensile forces. In addition, a thin insulating layer seals the holes from the fastening hardware.

Step 6. Unwind the vapor barrier carefully and use thin strips to nail it to the slats. In this case, the planks need to be slightly drowned in mineral wool - there will be a gap between your "pie" and the upholstery lining.

Step 7... Seal the joints of the vapor barrier material. To do this, you can take scotch tape, metallized tape, or use silicone glue.

Now you can start cladding the walls with natural clapboard.

Video - What will happen when installing a vapor barrier

Initial data: the ceiling is sheathed with clapboard, pressed mineral wool was chosen as the heat-insulating material. It is these materials that can guarantee the expected effect of the work performed.

Step 1. Nail the rough ceiling to the ceiling beams. You can use not only edged boards, the cracks do not affect the quality. The main thing is that they are relatively even and do not have protruding sharp elements. If such are found, the boards must be cleaned with a sandpaper. The thickness of the boards is within 20 mm.

Step 2. Prepare even and smooth slats about five centimeters wide, two centimeters thick, the ceiling finishing lining will be attached to them.

Step 3. Carefully spread the foil on the ceiling, this work cannot be done alone, there is a high probability of tearing the material. Foil does not differ in strength high rates... Do not stretch the film too much, but also do not allow it to sag more than two centimeters.

Step 4... When nailing the planks, be very careful, immediately estimate the place of their installation and do not "fidget" over the film several times.

Step 5... The planks are fixed, begin to sheathe the ceiling with clapboard. Fix the ceiling plinths in the corners.

Do-it-yourself lining ceiling. The gap between the lining and the wall is up to 2 cm

Interior work is finished, go up to the attic to insulate the ceiling. We advise you to use mineral wool, but in principle you can use any materials: from polystyrene to expanded clay. Mineral wool has the highest heat-saving characteristics, the optimal thickness is 10 centimeters. Place the cotton wool tightly, without gaps. Sheets are perfectly cut to existing sizes, unproductive waste is close to zero.

Nail the boards onto the ceiling beams from above. The thickness and quality of the boards depends on how you will use the attic in the future. Although our advice is - regardless of "today's plans" lay the flooring with quality material. Boards must be edged, at least 25 mm thick, the laying process does not differ from the laying of floorboards. Press them with special or homemade clamps, do not allow cracks and curvature to appear. For fixing, you can use nails or self-tapping screws, the length of the nails is at least 70 mm.

Vapor barrier of frame baths

One of the benefits frame bath- lightness of construction and minimum amount of lumber. The same advantage is fraught with the main danger - the risks of destruction of the bath increase due to the loss of carrying capacity by one of the structural elements. If for a log house the loss of the initial characteristics of one of the beams goes unnoticed, then for this type of baths the consequences of the loss of bearing indicators by one of the structural elements can be very sad.

The frames are made of boards 50 × 150 mm or 50 × 200 mm, all frame elements must withstand significant static loads for a long period of time. For insulation frame baths only mineral wool is used, but it quickly absorbs excess moisture and dries for a long time. Contact of wooden structures with damp mineral wool leads to the appearance of fungal diseases or rot. The conclusion is simple - the methods and methods of vapor barrier of frame baths should be given great attention, all technological construction operations should be performed with the utmost care. Let's give a few practical advice to protect the wooden structures of the bath.

1. Use only quality materials. For insulation, it is better to use foil rolled mineral wool, the side with the foil should face towards the interior.
2. An additional vapor barrier must be nailed in before cladding the interior walls. We wrote about their characteristics above. We recommend using the highest quality of them - composite foil.

How is a vapor barrier done?

Step 1. Thoroughly fill the finished frame structures with rolled aluminized mineral wool. Frame walls have a large number of different supports, cotton wool needs to be cut with a small margin of size. The material is cut with a special knife.

Step 2. The foil side of the insulation should "look" into the room.

Step 3. Check the quality of the insulation, if a defect is found, remove it.

Step 4. Cut the vapor barrier to the width of the room if you used ordinary mineral wool without foil. Better to take aluminum foil, covered with polyurethane foam on one side.

Step 5... You need to start installing the protective layer from the bottom up (and not vice versa!), Even if condensation appears, the water will roll down like on the roof of the roof, the mineral wool will remain dry.

Step 6... To bait the insulation layer, grab it with a stapler to the structures of the frame bath.

Step 7. Nail the slats 20 ÷ 50 mm to the vertical supports of the walls, the cladding will be attached to them in the future.

Step 8. Carefully seal the joints of the vapor barrier material with ordinary or special tape.

That's it, the vapor barrier is installed, you can start cladding the interior walls. On the outside, vapor barrier is not needed, but it is advisable to make waterproofing.

Video - Vapor barrier frame bath

Steam insulation of baths from foam blocks

In this case, too, the advantage of the material (low thermal conductivity) can turn into a disadvantage. Low heat conductivity of foam blocks is achieved due to huge amount micropores and capillaries, but these micropores and capillaries not only absorb moisture, but also very "effectively" distribute it over a large area. As a result, all wooden structures those in contact with the blocks have high humidity for a long period of time. The consequences of such operating conditions are known.

The physical properties of foam blocks make it necessary to protect the insulation from two sides: from the side of the finishing sheathing and from the side of the blocks. How to do it?

Step, # # Description Photo

Step 1.	Clean the wall from dust, remove any sharp protrusions that could damage the insulation material. Concrete blocks are not afraid of moisture; to isolate them from insulation, you can use the most durable materials, up to ordinary aluminum foil.
Step 2.	Do not try to pull on the foil with great force, this can lead to a violation of its integrity.
Step 3.	Vertical lines should already be drawn on the wall in the places where the battens for the lining are installed. Along these lines, temporarily fix the foil. In the future, slats will be nailed in the same places - the number of unnecessary holes will be reduced, and those that will be will be covered with slats.
Step 4.	Remove the temporary fastener and nail in the battens one at a time. Seal the foil overlaps with tape. Put rolled mineral wool in the "pockets".
Step 5.	Nail the vapor barrier to the vertical battens in the same way. For fixing, use strips 20 ÷ 50 mm.

All work on the vapor barrier is completed, you can start clapboarding the walls.

Vapor barrier is made to protect building materials used to create walls and ceilings from moisture that comes from inside the room in the form of steam particles. In most cases, it is used so that the insulation located inside the structure does not collect liquid from condensate.

At the same time, the vapor barrier in the bath can also perform the functions of sealing the room, which allows you to reach the required temperature much earlier.

Vapor barrier principles

To begin with, it should be noted that this type of protection is significantly different from waterproofing and uses completely different materials. At the same time, you need to understand that the walls and ceiling are mainly exposed to vapors, which means that it is not worth considering the types of floor protection. However, it should be said that the vapor barrier of the bath is also done on the floor, but here again materials are used to protect against direct contact with water.

Film

• This material is very popular among modern builders. It has a rather low cost, perfectly tolerates the effects of moisture and, at the same time, has a long service life.
• However, if the vapor barrier of the ceiling of the bath is made in a steam room, then the film should not be used. The fact is that it does not tolerate high temperatures at all and even with average heating it begins to lose its shape. Given this, they prefer to mount it in the rest room.
• The installation process is pretty straightforward. Such a vapor barrier for the bath is fixed with a special heat-resistant adhesive tape, along the entire perimeter of the surface. Moreover, if joints are formed, then they must be positioned, gluing overlapping on both sides.

• At the same time, some craftsmen use a stapler, fixing the material on the crate, but this will break the sealing, which will greatly weaken the protective functions of the film.
• It should be noted that there is a special vapor barrier for the bath made of similar materials. However, its cost is so high that, in combination with insulation, this makes builders look for other methods of moisture protection.

Advice!
The film must be purchased without seams.
It is in these places that it is most vulnerable and can tear.

Foil

• This type of insulation is of great importance for the bath, namely for the steam room. It not only perfectly does not allow moisture to pass through, but also reflects infrared radiation. This allows the room to be heated much faster.
• This material is especially effective at the moment when the ceiling is vaporized in the bath, since it is there that the largest accumulation of moisture and infrared radiation. However, professional builders advise using it to work in all rooms and on all surfaces.

• Foil for a bath is applied to the surface in the same way as the film. In this case, the fixation is carried out exclusively with heat-resistant tape.
• All work must be done very carefully, since this product is very easily torn.
• It is also necessary to remember that the vapor barrier of the walls in the bath is done on top of the insulation, but at the same time it should not come into contact with it. Otherwise, there will be no air gap between the two materials. This will lead to the accumulation of condensation on the insulation, and it may lose its quality.

Advice!
Some masters claim that any metal foil can be used for these purposes.
However, professionals advise using only food grade aluminum material.
The fact is that under heating it will not emit harmful substances, which is typical of some other products.

Special materials

• At present, materials for the vapor barrier of a bath based on foamed insulation have become very popular.
• The fact is that such structures are made mainly from a bar or log. If a brick or other material is used to create the walls of the bath, then it must be insulated from the outside. Thus, the entire structure is sufficiently protected from the cold and does not need internal insulation.

• However, the steam room should be equipped with a coating in which there is a reflective surface, since in this case we are talking about saving and energy saving.
• Considering this, many craftsmen prefer not to insulate the structure of the bath from the inside, and in the steam room they install roll insulation, which is a foamed foil base.
• Such a vapor barrier Izospan for a bath has a thickness of no more than one centimeter, which allows you to perfectly save on space.

• Also, its base is a kind of insulation, which of course cannot be compared with mineral wool or expanded polystyrene, but it does its job perfectly, given that the walls are wooden or are also protected from the cold outside.
• Special attention should be paid to the fact that the price of this material, together with the work, is much lower than the cost of insulation, film and foil combined.
• For the installation of such insulation, special tape is used. It also has a shiny surface and excellent infrared reflectivity.
• Before purchasing such products, the installation instructions recommend paying attention to their quality certificate. The fact is that recently many fakes have begun to appear that do not meet the declared characteristics. Their foam lining not only does not tolerate high heat, but also emits at it harmful substances.

• The same requirements apply to the quality of the adhesive tape.
• Given this situation, professionals always make purchases only from trusted sellers, trying to purchase goods from one manufacturer. At the same time, they will always try its quality with their own hands, because with constant work, some of them have learned to determine it by touch.

Advice!
To save money in the steam room, you can install insulation with a layer of foil, and in other rooms it is worth using polyethylene foam.
The fact is that a reflective surface is needed only where there is a source of infrared radiation.
Otherwise, it will cause cost overruns.

Conclusion

In the video presented in this article, you will find Additional information on this topic. Also, based on the text that is presented above, it can be concluded that the vapor barrier has certain differences from the waterproofing and completely different materials must be used for its installation.

At the same time, the process of making such a protection is quite simple and almost anyone can handle it, but you must be very careful when working, since all these insulators do not tolerate mechanical stress very well.

Vapor barrier for a bath: types and materials

The durability of any structure is determined by factors such as climate, design errors, quality of building materials and much more. Most of them are also important in the construction of a steam room. And in order for the service life of the latter to be maximum, a high-quality vapor barrier for the bath is needed. It allows you to keep warm and optimal indoor air humidity. Vapor barrier is needed to protect the insulation and the walls of the bath from the penetration of water vapor, to create a special vapor barrier. The combination of various protection methods prevents the appearance of condensation on the insulation.

Vapor barrier material

Damp steam is generated in any warm room. Its pressure is much higher than atmospheric pressure. This is especially true for the bathhouse. Trying to escape outside, the steam penetrates into the heat-insulating material and condenses in it. As a result, the insulation and the walls of the bathhouse become damp and deteriorate. To avoid this, a vapor barrier layer is used for interior decoration of the steam room. It can be both modern, high-tech, and conventional materials (glassine, foil, plastic wrap, etc.). A vapor barrier for a bath using roofing tar and roofing felt has many disadvantages: fragility, release of toxic substances, unpleasant odor. Therefore, it is better not to use these materials. Glassine and plastic wrap are quite common when carrying out vapor barrier works (due to their low cost and ease of use).

Steam insulation for a steam room made of aluminum foil

The main requirement for materials for vapor barrier and insulation is temperature resistance. Many experienced builders advise using aluminum foil as a vapor barrier. This material protects the insulation and walls from steam, perfectly reflects heat into the steam room, does not require replacement for a long time. Foil can be used both together with insulation, and separately. There should be an air gap (about 15 mm) between the interior of the steam room and the aluminum foil. The foil canvases are overlapped, the connecting joints are glued with a special heat-resistant tape. In order for the condensate to drain freely onto the floor, a small exit of the canvas is provided at the junction of the walls and the floor.

Foil insulation

On the construction market, you can find special foil-coated thermal insulation materials (eg URSA). They perform a number of functions: heat insulation, vapor barrier, heat reflection inside the room. Installation of such materials is quite simple and convenient.

Vapor barrier membrane

This material is used to protect insulation. The membrane film is located on the inner side of the double compartment, in front of the heat-insulating layer, and covers its entire surface. The film is fastened through a wooden lath with staples using a construction stapler. This is necessary to avoid all kinds of cracks and breakouts. The fabrics of the membrane film are laid with an overlap of 10 cm. The joints are glued with tape. Such a vapor barrier for a bath will be reliable and durable. The main thing is not to stretch the film with effort during installation.

Heat and vapor insulation of the bath ceiling with expanded polystyrene plates

It is known that hot air tends upward. Therefore, the protection of the ceiling from steam must be provided even during the design and construction of the bath. Today, polystyrene foam boards are successfully used for this purpose. Their advantages are ease of installation and preservation of their thermal insulation properties even under the influence of moisture.

It should be remembered that a vapor barrier for a bath is extremely necessary. But this only applies to the pair department. Other rooms can be decorated differently.

Purpose and rules for laying a vapor barrier

With the rise in energy costs, it becomes necessary to minimize heat loss through walls / floors / ceilings. To solve this problem, a layer of insulation materials is laid (its thickness depends on the purpose of the room, climatic conditions and characteristics of the selected type of material). But at the same time, another problem arises: with an inevitable temperature difference between the outer and inner surfaces, condensation forms. If it forms in a layer of insulation, this entails a decrease in its characteristics. It was found that with an increase in the moisture content of thermal insulation by 5%, the thermal insulation properties decrease by 50%. After drying, the properties are partially restored, the thermal insulation is gradually getting worse, the heat loss is more significant. Since the humidity in the room is almost always higher (and in the bath, all the more so), the steam tends to go outside, "getting stuck" in the insulation along the way. To prevent the penetration of steam, a vapor barrier is laid on the side of the room.

How to stack and why

Usually the vapor barrier is installed from the side of the room. This is due to the fact that the humidity is usually higher indoors. This is especially true for kitchens, bathrooms, as well as baths and saunas. For baths or saunas built from wood, the penetration of moisture into the wood is also fraught with the formation of mold and the gradual destruction of the wood. This problem is especially relevant for Russian baths with their high humidity levels.

In traditional baths made of rounded logs without additional thermal insulation, the removal of vapors, regulation of humidity and drying of the room occurs due to natural processes. Even with perfectly fitted logs and caulked joints, the removal of vapors and the supply of fresh air occurs due to the micropores of the wood, small cracks in the logs. This is exactly how our ancestors steamed: they heated the bathhouse for a long time - six to eight hours, did not rush anywhere and did not save firewood.

We need the bath to be ready at most, within an hour, while energy costs should be minimal. This is achieved through a multi-layer "cake" of various materials to retain heat and steam. A layer of vapor barrier in such a "sandwich" is required, otherwise all "layers" will have to be changed in a year or two, and the wood will be treated for a long time and persistently against mold and mildew.

Waterproofing and vapor barrier: what's the difference?

The main difference between waterproofing and vapor barrier is the vapor permeability of materials. Waterproofing does not allow moisture to pass through, but collects it on the surface. Therefore, this type of material is laid in those places where moisture gets in the form of drops, for example, under the corrugated board on the roof. Condensate from the corrugated board in the form of water drops falls on the waterproofing, flows down it and is removed outside the roof (therefore, the edges of the waterproofing are wrapped in an envelope).

The task of vapor barrier is different: it should prevent the penetration of water vapor into the insulation. Since the vapors are mostly located on the warmer side, membranes or films are often laid on the “warm” side. If we talk about the roof, then the vapor barrier materials are placed from the side of the attic, if we talk about the vapor barrier of the walls of the steam room or other bath rooms, then the membranes / films are placed behind the decorative sheathing.

Summing up: the waterproofing does not conduct water (but it can conduct steam, releasing the one that has penetrated the insulation), the vapor barrier does not allow steam to pass through.

The difference between vapor barrier and waterproofing is described in detail in the video.

It should be recalled that the dew point, in relation to the room of a bath or sauna, is often floating.

Types of vapor barrier materials

Traditionally, during construction, glassine, roofing felt or roofing felt played the role of a vapor barrier. Today, the popularity of these materials is falling, they are gradually being replaced by new materials that have the best characteristics... In addition, it is better not to use roofing felt and roofing material for steam rooms: when heated, they emit a specific smell, which cannot be called pleasant, besides, the substances released do not have the best effect on health.

Films made of polyethylene and polypropylene

The most affordable polyethylene films, but they have a significant drawback: a short service life. Polyethylene films are perforated and non-perforated. For vapor barrier, experts recommend using non-perforated materials.

It is impractical to use ordinary polyethylene films for vapor barrier of steam rooms: they quickly lose their properties at high temperatures, but they can be used in washing rooms or changing rooms / dressing rooms.

Any plastic films have a significant drawback: they tear easily. Therefore, during installation, you need to be careful and careful. The slightest violation of the integrity will lead to the fact that steam will penetrate inside the insulation, deteriorating its properties. Even when using reinforced polyethylene films, which are more durable, there is a significant risk of holes and cracks.

Polypropylene films have much higher strength characteristics. At the same time, the price for them is slightly higher. Polypropylene films withstand temperature extremes better, can also serve as wind protection, tolerate heat and ultraviolet radiation well, crack less often and break more difficult.

Recently, they began to produce polypropylene films based on viscose and cellulose. This layer has a matte, slightly friable surface, it can retain significant amounts of moisture, which then evaporates. When using polypropylene with such an anti-condensation layer, be sure to leave a ventilation gap to allow moisture to evaporate.

Membranes

The most modern, but also the most expensive vapor barrier material is diffuse or breathable membranes. They have high vapor permeability, strength and durability. There are single-sided or double-sided membranes. One-sided conducts steam only in one direction, when laying them it is important not to confuse which side to lay the vapor barrier (all recommendations should be in the instructions for the material).

As a rule, a two-layer polypropylene vapor barrier is mounted on the inside of the insulation with the smooth side close to the insulation. For example, if a vapor barrier is installed in the attic of a bathhouse, then the rough side should be at the bottom.

Double-sided membranes can be installed on either side - they act in both directions.

Membranes are also distinguished by the number of layers: there are single-layer and multi-layer. Multilayer can accumulate moisture inside, then gradually give it away. There are membranes that simultaneously regulate humidity, temperature, and serve as waterproofing. They are also called "intellectual". They cost, of course, a lot, but if you take into account how many materials they replace, save space (they have a small thickness and do not require a ventilation gap) and installation time, then this is not so expensive.

Foil materials

All of the above materials do their job well. But you cannot put them in the steam rooms of baths and saunas: they will either melt from high temperatures or release harmful substances when heated, or maybe both at the same time. For steam rooms, special materials are made that can withstand heating up to 120 ° C and are safe at such temperatures.

There is a whole group of materials with foil glued on one side. It not only prevents the penetration of steam, but also reduces heat loss: from the metallized surface, infrared radiation is reflected back into the steam room. Therefore, such a vapor barrier is called reflective.

When laying panels, the joint can be done with a small approach, and glue it with metallized tape, or use double-sided tape, but then one sheet should overlap the other by at least 10-15 cm. less than 2 cm to layer interior decoration... This is done by stuffing the lathing from bars of the appropriate size.

There are several types of such materials:

• Foil on kraft paper (Alumkraft and RufIzol). The material is easier to handle than conventional foil, easy to roll and attach. Disadvantage: hygroscopicity and low strength of the base, which, when wet, can be damaged by fungi.
• Lavsan coating on kraft paper (Izospan FB and MEGAFLEX KF). Although the operating temperature range allows these materials to be used in a steam room (up to 140 ° C), they are not very popular: any kind of chemistry in a steam room is not welcome.
• Foil based on fiberglass (Termofol ALST, Aromofol, Folgoizol). The materials have a very high strength: it is very difficult to tear the fiberglass. A rather high degree of thermal insulation is a pleasant moment, an unpleasant moment is the price.

There is also a combined material: foil insulation (Isover (Isover) Sauna, SAUNA BATTS from ROCKWOOL, Ursa (Ursa) foil). The mineral wool mats are covered with a layer of foil, sometimes metallized lavsan. This combination allows you to speed up the construction process.

Cheap steam barrier for baths

If the means are very tight, or you do not want to use the achievements of civilization, you can soak the cardboard with linseed oil, and use these sheets as a material for vapor barrier. Another material that is not the most effective today, but affordable and does a good job with its task, is glassine. It has been used for many years and has not yet found any harmful fumes.

Liquid (coating) vapor barrier

Another material that can be used for vapor barrier is liquid rubber (also called lubricated vapor barrier). It is an aqueous solution of polymers that is applied in a liquid state. After drying, a strong film forms on the surface, completely impervious to water and steam. Such a film also has heat and sound insulation properties. Lubricating vapor barrier is most often used for floor treatment. In saunas it can be used to cover concrete or subfloors made of boards. To solve the problems of vapor barrier, the consumption of the emulsion is about 1.5 kilograms per 1m2, for waterproofing the consumption increases by 2-2.5 times (the layer thickness is about 0.7 mm). Liquid rubber is also suitable for vapor barrier brick walls both inside and outside the room, you can use this kind of mastic in washing rooms or changing rooms, but for steam rooms, the composition must be chosen carefully - it must be non-toxic and withstand high temperatures.

Bath lovers and connoisseurs advise to use only foil roll materials for vapor barrier of the ceiling and walls of the steam room, which not only serve as a vapor barrier, but also reflect thermal radiation inside, reducing the cost of maintaining the temperature.

Vapor barrier manufacturers

On the market today there is a large selection of vapor barriers from different manufacturers. Izospan materials (Gexa company) occupy a significant market share. Today the following types of products are produced:

The Yutafol vapor barrier has also proven itself well. Polyethylene films Yutafol N and NAL, have good characteristics and sufficiently high strength for this type of material. Polypropylene Yutafol D and Yutavek at a low price have sufficient strength and protect walls and roofs well from moisture and wind. Tyvek membranes - Tyvek Solid, Hausrep are used for vapor barrier of roofs and walls.

There are a number of other firms that have good reviews:

• Delta trademark Dorken (Germany)
• Yutafol, Yutavek produced by Juta (Czech Republic)
• Klober (Germany)
• Tyvek films manufactured by DuPont (USA)
• Fakro (Poland)

The choice of fastening method depends on the type of vapor barrier material used. Polyethylene and polypropylene films are attached with small nails or with staples and a construction stapler.

In order to minimize damage, it is advisable to use wooden strips that press the film against the guides, and drive staples / nails into the strip. Membranes can be fixed in the same way. They do not tear as much as polyethylene or polypropylene films, and are easier to work with.

Fastening the vapor barrier

Webs of roll materials are stacked one on top of the other With with an overlap of at least 10-15 cm, gluing the joints with adhesive tape. You can use specialized, foil or ordinary adhesive tape.

Foil tape must be used at the joints of foil-clad materials, otherwise most of their effectiveness is lost. When gluing the joints of other materials, manufacturers recommend using their own adhesive tapes, but they do not explain their differences and advantages.

Please note that during installation, the vapor barrier should not be stretched: they tend to stretch / shrink when temperatures change. To avoid breaks during tension, you need to leave a small margin. Normal is the "slack" of the canvas during installation by 1-2 cm. This is especially true when laying the vapor barrier on the roof or in an unheated room.

When installing a vapor barrier in places with difficult terrain (protrusions, corners, etc.), it is advisable to glue the adjacent surfaces with tape: it is difficult to achieve perfect tightness in such places, and this is the main condition for the effectiveness of protection. Therefore, any aids will be useful. It is also necessary to glue the edges of the vapor barrier around the perimeter of door and window openings with tape to ensure tightness. In general, tightness is the basis of a high-quality vapor barrier for a bath, roof or any other room. Therefore, when carrying out work, pay maximum attention to this aspect.

In order for the bath room to gain the required temperature as quickly as possible and keep it better, insulating layers are used. However, the trouble with many heaters is their high hygroscopicity, leading to a loss of insulating properties and the destruction of raw materials. Vapor barrier films and other materials help to protect the insulation from moisture. Study what kind of vapor barrier is for baths and saunas, what is better to choose and how to carry out independent installation.

In most cases, they are used as insulation different kinds mineral wool. This material does not rot, retains temperature well and is inexpensive. The vapor barrier in the bath is designed to retain water vapors and prevent them from penetrating into the insulation layer. If expanded polystyrene, expanded polystyrene or polystyrene foam is used to preserve heat, there is no need for protection from steam.

Vapor barrier in the "pie" of the outer wall

Reliable vapor barrier not only increases the effectiveness of the insulation layer, but also protects the walls and ceiling of the bath from decay. When choosing vapor barrier materials, it is necessary to take into account that it is advisable to use different insulation for different premises:

• For a steam room, a foil vapor barrier is best suited, reflecting heat and creating an additional thermos effect.
• In the shower, you can do with ordinary films.
• In the dressing room and the rest room, a membrane vapor barrier or kraft paper will be appropriate.

Correct vapor barrier will increase the effectiveness of the insulation

Overview of vapor barrier materials

In search of an answer to the question: what kind of vapor barrier to choose for the walls and ceiling of the bath, it is necessary to study the properties of all available materials. They can be divided into the following groups:

• various films;
• membrane materials such as isospan;
• kraft paper;
• insulation with vapor barrier properties;
• coating vapor barrier.

Plain plastic wrap

This is the most cheap stuff... The good thing about the film is that it is sold as a canvas with a width of 3 to 6 meters. Thanks to this, it is possible to sheathe walls and ceilings with a minimum of seams. In a six-meter canvas, the film is sold folded in half, that is, in fact, the width is three meters. When folded, it can be attached to walls to create a double layer.

However, the film is short-lived. After a few years, it will begin to deteriorate under the influence of high temperatures. Therefore, in modern construction, it is used less and less. If, nevertheless, a decision is made to sheathe the bath with a film, choose the thickest canvas - from 100 microns thick.

Polyethylene film is the most affordable material

Construction cardboard or kraft paper

In rooms where there is no high humidity, the use of thick construction cardboard, the so-called kraft paper, is quite acceptable. In its pure form, it is rarely used now; modifications with a foil or lavsan coating are more popular.

Plain and foil kraft paper without a polyethylene layer absolutely does not tolerate contact with water, therefore they are used only for covering the dressing room or rest room. Kraft paper with lavsan coating or polyethylene interlayer is a more durable material, suitable for both dry saunas and steam rooms.

On sale you can find the following vapor barrier for a bath based on kraft paper:

• Izospan FB - lavsan coated cardboard;
• Megaflex KF - similar material from another manufacturer;
• Alurkraft, Izolar - a three-layer vapor barrier consisting of kraft paper, polyethylene film and foil;
• Rufizol S is a foil vapor barrier based on kraft paper.

Sauna Foil Paper

Foamed polyethylene isolon

This material is widely used for steam insulation in baths and saunas. In addition to hydro and vapor insulating properties, it has a warming effect. It is a flexible polyethylene foam sheet.

Isolon with foil coating is the most popular. It withstands the extreme temperatures of the steam room well, does not allow moisture to pass through, and retains heat. The thicker the foam layer, the more pronounced the insulating properties. For baths, it is advisable to use foil-clad isolon with a thickness of at least 3 mm.

Foamed polyethylene is called isolon

Foil mineral wool

When deciding which foil is better to choose for a bath, it is worth taking a closer look at such a versatile material as foil mineral wool. It is a modern vapor barrier with excellent insulating properties.

In fact, it is a heater covered with a heat-reflecting moisture-resistant layer. Such foil vapor barrier is ideal for bath insulation. It is mounted on the ceiling and walls with a heat-insulating layer inward, and foil-clad outward.

For cladding a bath, you should choose a coating with a thickness of at least 50 mm. Foil mineral wool is sold in rolls. In hardware stores, you can find mineral wool from such manufacturers:

• Rockwool Lamella MAT - natural foil stone wool with fibers perpendicular to the coating, which ensures the strength and flexibility of the material;
• Knauf Insulation LMF Alur - foil mineral wool that can withstand temperatures up to 600 degrees, but the temperature of the air in contact with the foil should not exceed 100 degrees;
• Isover Sauna - glass wool and foil cover, specially designed for baths and saunas;
• URSA М-11 F is another coating designed for warming and vapor barrier of wet rooms.

Foil mineral wool is great for baths

Vapor barrier coating "Izospan"

Izospan is one of the modern materials. The product line is represented by a wide variety of coatings. However, all of them are united by one property - these are polypropylene films of different thicknesses and strengths, designed to protect against moisture.

The Izospan vapor barrier, which can be used on the ceiling and walls of the bath, does not let in not only steam, but also water. Therefore, the materials of this company can be used to sheathe steam rooms and shower rooms.

The following brands are best suited for cladding bath rooms:

• foil-clad "Izospan FS" - polypropylene membrane with a metal coating. Absolutely steam and waterproof. Reflects up to 90% of heat, which contributes to energy saving;
• foil-clad "Izospan FX" on a foamed basis. A universal product with which you can not only protect walls from moisture, but also insulate them;
• metallized "Izospan FB" with a base of kraft paper, it is preferable to use it for the ceiling of the bath. Like other foil-clad products, it reflects most of the heat energy, keeping it indoors.

Izospan products have a wide range of brands

Moisture protection with liquid rubber

Liquid rubber is industrial bitumen-polymer mixtures applied directly to surfaces that must be isolated from steam. The convenience of this method is that you can process elements of any, even the most complex configuration.

In the bath, liquid rubber is usually covered with concrete floors and brick or concrete walls. For walls, a consumption of 1.5 kg of mixture per square meter of surface is sufficient. A thicker layer is needed on the floor, so the consumption will be about 3 kg per square meter.

On sale you can find liquid rubber from such manufacturers:

• Roller Grade bitumen-polymer mastic;
• Sikafloor-400 N Elastic;
• Mapegum WPS;
• Isoflex PU-500.

Liquid rubber can be applied with a brush

Correct installation of roll vapor barrier

If there was a need to make a vapor barrier for an already finished bath, you will have to remove all the old casing. If a new building is under construction, then the insulation is mounted after a layer of insulation, and then the walls are sheathed with finishing material.

General rules for cladding a room

The most important thing that needs to be achieved when installing vapor barrier materials with your own hands is the complete tightness of the coating. Steam must not enter the sheathing through gaps between the ceiling and walls or through the joints of the sheets.

To do this, all seams must be glued with special foil or double-sided tape. If there is no such tape, you can use regular wide tape, but the service life of the vapor barrier will be reduced in this case.

Gluing canvases with foil tape

The canvases are superimposed on each other with a gap of 5-10 cm.For fastening to the walls, thin strips are used, which are pressed tightly to the surface, and then nailed with thin nails in increments of 15-20 cm.Otherwise, the insulation is fixed with a construction stapler, and the seam with staples additionally glued with tape.

It is also necessary to consider the gap between the vapor barrier and the finishing cladding of the room. Traditionally, the interior space of the bath is decorated with smoothly rounded boards. The ventilation gap is necessary so that the condensed moisture has the opportunity to evaporate and not be absorbed into the wood.

It is very easy to make such ventilation. Bars 2-5 cm thick are stuffed onto a surface insulated and protected from steam, and finishing boards are already attached to them. It should not be forgotten that the sealed room must be ventilated after each bath so that the moisture dries out and does not provoke the development of the fungus.

Insulation and vapor barrier scheme

Vapor barrier works assume that the walls are insulated. That is, a layer of mineral wool should already be fixed on the walls. The lathing for the insulation should be wooden, because the vapor barrier will also be attached to it.

In order for the insulation to work as efficiently as possible, a vapor barrier film is also laid between the mineral wool and the wall. For these purposes, it is better to take a membrane film, thus, the condensate formed on cold walls will not get into the insulation.

Consumables and tools for work

Everyone prepares first necessary materials and tools. For the vapor barrier of the bath with izospan, izolon or other vapor barrier films, you will need:

• the required amount of film;
• adhesive tape for gluing joints;
• construction stapler with staples or a hammer and small nails;
• clamping strips, if nails are selected for fasteners;
• bars for a ventilation gap with a thickness of at least 2 cm, if the fasteners will be carried out with staples;
• wood screws;
• screwdriver or sturdy screwdriver.

Installation with a stapler

Step-by-step instructions for wall cladding

The stages of work on the vapor barrier of the walls of the bath with your own hands look like this:

1. The required amount of material is calculated based on the total area of ​​the walls, taking into account the overlap on the ceiling and floor of 10-15 cm. The width of a standard roll is 1.5 meters. To minimize the number of joints, the canvases are not fastened vertically, but horizontally, that is, you get one horizontal seam around the perimeter of the entire room.
2. The work is carried out together - one unwinds and holds the roll of film, and the other attaches it to the wall.
3. The sheathing starts from the bottom corner. An overlap is made on the adjacent wall 10 cm and the same amount on the floor.
4. Carefully unwind the roll along the length of the wall, grab it with a stapler in several places so that the film does not fall off.
5. Having reached the next corner, the vapor barrier is not cut off, but simply left the roll to stand upright until the turn comes to sheathing the second wall.
6. When installing foil-clad isospan or any other metallized film, it is laid with the base inside, and with a shiny layer outside.
7. If the work is carried out with a stapler, the film is fixed to the wooden crate with staples in increments of about 20 cm.
8. In the case when the fasteners are held with clamping strips, they apply the bar along the crate, nail its ends, and then additionally fix it with nails with a step of 15-20 cm.
9. Move to the next wall, continuing to unwind the roll. If the roll is over, the next canvas is overlapped on the first one, and the joint is well glued with tape. In a similar way, the entire lower part of the room is sheathed.
10. Move to the top. Work starts again from the corner. The film is positioned in such a way as to overlap the ceiling and the lower vapor barrier layer.
11. Around doors and windows, if any, the canvas is additionally fixed with clamping strips and glued with tape.
12. All joints and places of fixation with staples are also necessarily protected with tape. The absence of any gaps is very important, otherwise there will be no effect.
13. If the fasteners were carried out with the clamping strips, the finish is mounted directly on them.
14. If staples have been used, additional vertical strips will have to be stuffed at least 2 cm thick to provide a ventilation gap.

Installation of membrane vapor barrier

Stages of vapor barrier of the ceiling in the bath

The vapor barrier film for the ceiling of the bath is selected according to the same principle as for the walls. It is better that it has a foil coating, because the lion's share of heat is lost through the ceiling.

Step-by-step instruction DIY styling:

1. Before installing the vapor barrier, the ceiling of the bath is insulated with mineral wool, and here its layer should be twice as thick as on the walls.
2. If the room is rectangular, the canvases are placed along long side ceiling so that there are as few seams as possible.
3. The roll is unwound and the film is laid so that it overlaps the walls.
4. Fix the canvas at the edges and in several places in the middle with staples so that it does not fall off. After that, the film is thoroughly fixed with a stapler or clamping strips along the ceiling lathing.
5. The next canvas is laid with an overlap on the first and fixed to the ceiling. This is how they handle the rest of the film until the entire space is sheathed.
6. All joints between the canvases, as well as on the border of the ceiling and walls, are carefully glued with tape.
7. To increase the energy-saving properties of the ceiling, another layer of membrane is laid on the side of the attic in order to exclude the ingress of condensation from the roof onto the insulation.

The canvas should go against the walls

The work of vapor barrier a bath is very simple, but its importance cannot be underestimated. Thanks to the correctly carried out vapor barrier, the energy efficiency of the room increases and the cost of heating it decreases.