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Fast and correct pipe threading at home

From the time the first metal pipe appeared to this day, the threaded connection is deservedly considered the only reliable way among the detachable options. There are now enough ways to cut a thread, as well as a tool, but, despite this, quite often a novice owner does not know where to start. In this article I will tell you which pipe threading tool is more suitable for home use and how to do it yourself.

A few words about what kind of thread is

In theory, there are a fairly large number of types of threaded connection, but I do not see the point in going into this jungle, because most of these types are highly specialized and are mostly used in mechanical engineering, plus it is practically impossible to cut such a connection with a traditional tool at home.

• Let's start with the simplest. By itself, pipe threads are external and internal... Here everything seems to me very clear. The external thread is cut from the outside of the pipe, respectively, the internal thread is made from the inside;
• There is also a right-hand and left-hand thread... They differ in the direction of screwing the nut and fitting (in the case of the external version) or screwing in the screw (this is for internal version). In the overwhelming majority of cases, a novice owner needs a right-hand thread, this is when the nut is screwed clockwise. Naturally, in a left-hand thread, the nut will turn counterclockwise;

• The thread also differs depending on the purpose of operation, the most common here are:
  1. Fastening thread- it is considered one of the most durable, but it is relevant for bolting, this option is less common in pipes;
  2. So-called lead thread, we are not interested at all, it is used exclusively in the machine-building direction;
  3. Since we are talking about pipes, and at home it is, as a rule, water supply and heating, then we are interested in the fastening and sealing version of the thread. This connection is designed for tight, docking. Often any household pipe threading tool is designed for this option.

• You should also consider the step of threading... This term refers to the distance between the tops of the cones. In our great power, a direct measurement of the step is adopted, that is, the exact distance between the turns in millimeters is indicated. In the Western classification, you can find an indirect measurement of the step, this is the number of turns per fixed dimensional unit;
• There is also a parameter called thread depth.... This is the size of the tooth, that is, the distance from its top to the base. It is believed that the larger it is, the denser and stronger the connection;

The configuration of the tooth when threading can be different, but in domestic plumbing, in the vast majority of cases, you will encounter a tooth in the form of an isosceles triangle.

• When you are going to get started, first of all, you need to figure out what kind of measurement system you need. The fact is that there is a metric and an inch system, more often we have a metric system, but in cases with imported sanitary ware, you can also get into an inch measurement:
  1. V metric system all parameters are indicated in millimeters. The sectional tooth looks like an isosceles triangle with an angle of 60º. As a rule, it goes in smaller steps;
  2. In the inch system, all dimensions of the mating parts are indicated in inches (1 inch equals 25.4 mm). Right here, the pitch can be specified by the number of turns per inch. The shape of the tooth in inch is the same, only the angle is 55º. Often the profile of an inch thread is larger and the pitch is larger. Many argue that such a thread is stronger, but personally I did not notice much difference.

In the table, I have collected the characteristics of some common models.

Thread pitch standards		Metric pipe diameter		Thread size in inches "
Metric system	Inch system (number of turns per inch)	Interior	Outer
2,309 mm	11 in / d	84.930 mm	87.887 mm	3 ″
2,309 mm	11 in / d	72,230 mm	75.187 mm	2.1 / 2 ″
2,309 mm	11 in / d	56.659 mm	59.616 mm	2 ″
2,309 mm	11 in / d	44.847 mm	47.805 mm	1.1 / 2 ″
2,309 mm	11 in / d	38.954 mm	41.912 mm	1.1 / 4 ″
2,309 mm	11 in / d	30,293 mm	33,250 mm	1"
1,814 mm	14 v / d	24.119 mm	26.442 mm	3/4 ″
1,814 mm	14 v / d	18.632 mm	20.956 mm	1/2 ″

How and how to thread pipes

In fact, there are not so many options at home and the instructions are often similar, but small nuances still exist.

In theory, in order to get the highest quality result, you need lathe for threading pipes. But a lathe is an expensive thing and is rarely found in home workshops. Plus such exceptional precision and purity in normal conditions are not needed, so further we will talk about more affordable and simple options.

Good old dice

Dies are deservedly considered the most common device for cutting external threads not only on pipes, but also on any cylindrical rods. The price of one die now starts at 68 rubles, but it is not profitable to take them by the piece, here it makes sense to purchase at least a minimum set for threading pipes. The standard version includes the running dimensions of the dies, plus a ram holder for work.

In our country, the configuration of the dies, as well as any tool, is classified according to GOST. When choosing, it will not be superfluous to pay attention to the presence of such designations.

So a die for a round thread is made according to GOST 13536-68, tapered thread GOST 6211-81, metric thread GOST 9150-81, inch thread GOST 6111-52, cylindrical thread GOST 9740-71.

In imported products, there may not be a reference to our GOST, in this case you need to pay attention to the steel grade from which the cutters are made, often such marking is applied directly to the die. So for a pipe made of ordinary steel and non-ferrous metals, "P18" or "P9" is suitable. But to work with stainless steel, you will need alloyed, instrumental steel grades, such as "KhVSG" or "9XS".

Actually the dies themselves are of two types:

1. Regular round ones are made of solid metal and have clearly fixed dimensions, each die is designed to cut only one thread diameter. They are the most comfortable and durable;
2. Sliding dies, they are also called lers, consist of two separate incisors, which are inserted into a special adjustable die holder. Although at first glance such a tool may seem universal, I would not advise you to buy it. Firstly, in a monolithic die there are at least 4 cutters, and in a sliding one only 2. And secondly, a sliding die holder is an unreliable thing, it "loosens" over time.

The fixing system for the dies is extremely simple. There are fixing screws around the perimeter of the die holder. The end face of any die is equipped with special grooves and grooves, into which these screws enter. As soon as you fix the die, it is considered ready for use.

In addition, there are roughing and finishing dies. The rough version is intended for the initial "run", here about 70% of the metal is removed. Finishing removes the remaining 30% and the thread is brought to a perfect condition.

Before proceeding with cutting, the pipe must be prepared. This is not a difficult matter. To begin with, you should exactly, that is, strictly perpendicular to the axis of the pipe, cut off the edge.

After that, the entire planned length of the cut should be brushed to a metallic sheen. It is not so important what you use to clean the pipe with an emery or a file, the main thing is that it "shines".

Any such work requires lubrication. Moreover, it must be applied both to the pipe itself and to the cutters of the die. The classic instruction recommends using strictly machine oil.

But from personal experience I’ll say it doesn’t matter much. You can lubricate with anything, "spindle", grease, working off engine oil and even lard or sunflower oil.

Next, the pipe needs to be fixed somehow. It is great if there is a vice, if not, then you can use clamps. Even a gas wrench is suitable in difficult conditions, but it will be difficult for a canopy, without skill, to work.

Before you "put" the die on the edge of the pipe, from this very edge you will need to remove the chamfer with a file. Otherwise, it will be difficult for you to hook, and the thread may go crooked.

All that was needed, you have done, now you can proceed directly to threading.

To do this, put the die on the edge strictly perpendicular to the pipe and, with a slight pressure, begin to turn the die holder in the desired direction. For right-hand threads, clockwise. For the left, vice versa. If the tool is of good quality, it will catch on immediately.

When cutting any thread, the same pattern is used. Having turned the tool 2 - 3 turns forward, you need to unscrew one or at least half a turn back. This is necessary in order to knock off the chips, otherwise you will ruin the tool.

This is how the thread is cut with a die. When you have finished cutting to the planned point, I recommend running the die a couple more times along the entire length, and then remove the remaining chips and lubricate again. Next, you can try to screw on a nut or fitting.

What is klupp and how to work with it

Klupp or as some ignorant citizens call it - a pipe threading club is, in essence, a modern modified model of a die. On this moment share two varieties of such an instrument. The first is an electric screwdriver, the second is purely manual. But they differ not only in the presence of an electric drive, there is also a difference between them in purpose and scope of operation.

Electrical modification is a very convenient thing. It does not require much effort, everything is extremely simple, put a guide sleeve on the end of the pipe, set the operating mode and pressed the button. The device will do all the work for you. But not everything is as elegant as it seems.

Firstly, the price for such a pleasure starts from about 33 thousand rubles. And what is more sad, such a voluminous thing can not be crawled everywhere. For example, the lines going close to the wall due to the large size of the head are not available to him. Best of all, the electric die-cutter is suitable for serious volumes when installing new routes, where it is possible to clamp the workpiece in a vice and work calmly.

There are 2 types of such a tool, these are # 1 and # 2. The first number is a mobile portable electric die, which can work with pipes with a diameter of up to 40 mm. The second option is designed to work with pipes from 40 mm to 2 inches, as you understand the dimensions there are already completely different, in fact it is a small machine for threading pipes.

A manual screw die is already more affordable in price, one head here costs a strand of 700 rubles, and a running set for threading pipes starts at 14 thousand. In addition to the threaded heads themselves, the standard equipment includes a so-called ratchet with a collapsible, extending lever. The ratchet itself is equipped with a switching mechanism for screwing the cutting head in one direction or another.

The manual mechanism, as well as its electric counterpart, has two modifications, No. 1 can cut threads from half an inch to an inch and a quarter. The second number can already cut threads up to one and a half, and sometimes even up to two inches, although you will have to sweat a lot.

Separately, I would like to say about replaceable nozzles for klupps. Unlike conventional dies, they have such a useful device as a guide pipe.

In fact, this is just a piece of a tube with a diameter slightly larger than a working one. But with it, even if the pipe is not cut perfectly straight, the thread will be cut clearly and evenly anyway. True, then there may be problems with tightening the nut.

In addition, the vast majority of klupp attachments are collapsible. If you remove the top cover, you will find four replaceable cutters. And having bought such a nozzle once, you can easily change damaged cutters, which is much cheaper than buying a new, one-piece die.

The technology of threading with a die is approximately the same as with a conventional die. First, we lubricate the pipe and the cutting mechanism itself. After that, you need to check the direction set on the ratchet detent.

As I mentioned, the ratchet has a retainer with a ring and an arrow. So this arrow indicates the direction of cutting.

Next, we clean the pipe, remove the chamfer from it, put on the guide pipe, press it lightly and start cutting. After two turns, take the retainer by the ring, raise it and turn it 180º so that the arrow points in the other direction. This is necessary to turn the head half a turn back to remove the chips.

Then flip the head of the retainer back and cut the threads further. And so on until you finish. In the electric version, everything is much simpler, there, to change the direction of rotation, you just need to switch the toggle switch.

If the tool is new and the teeth are sharp, the thread may be squashed. There is nothing terrible here, you just have to wind more fum tapes or tow.
It is much worse if the threads are not cut, in which case there is a real possibility of damaging the thread of the fitting.

Internal threading

To be honest, if you were able to cut the external thread, then the internal thread for you will not be difficult. In terms of budget, compared to outdoor views, it is middle variant... The price for a normal tap is about 300 - 400 rubles, to which you need to add the cost of the wrench, about 150 - 200 rubles.

The actions are similar here. Since the inside of the pipes is extremely rarely painted, it is quite possible to do without the cleaning step. But in any case, you will have to lubricate the surface and the tap.

As for the chamfer, according to the rules, it is removed with an ordinary round file. But personally, I have never done this, the tap will not go anywhere anyway, it simply has nowhere to go in the pipe.

But here it is desirable that you use just a pair, that is, a roughing and finishing tap. In the rough model, the end is more beveled and easily clings to the pipe walls. Drive a fine tap on the thread and make the thread perfect even easier.

To make it easier for you to understand the markings on the taps, I have compiled a correspondence table of the most popular models.

Inner diameter of pipe or hole (mm)	Thread marking
1,6	M-2
2,2	M-2.5
2,5	M-3
3,3	M-4
4,2	M-5
5,0	M-6
6,0	M-7
6,7	M-8
8,5	M-10
10,2	M-12

And do not forget that the internal threading technique is no different from external counterparts. The same 2 - 3 turns forward and half a turn back to remove the shavings.

Output

As you can see, cutting any threads on a standard metal pipe is not particularly difficult. The photo and video in this article contains Additional Information on the topic of slicing different types carving. If you still have questions, write them in the comments, I will try to help.

July 22, 2016

If you want to express gratitude, add clarification or objection, ask the author something - add a comment or say thank you!

When performing work related to the installation of plumbing or heating, it becomes necessary to thread pipes. To do this, you can take a pipe and head to the metal rolling, where the thread will be cut in a matter of minutes. However, this method has not been relevant for a long time, since there are other options that do not require the transportation of the pipe to production.

Existing threading options

There are five types of pipe threads, but the most popular options are tapered and cylindrical. Households often encounter such options for pipe threads. There are two ways to thread a water pipe:

• Automatic, providing for threading on water supply pipes using special machines and power tools.
• Manual. For this, special hand tools are used.

If, on duty, a person needs to cut threads on a large number of pipes, then it is appropriate to purchase a special power tool, which will facilitate manual labor.

When the need to obtain a threaded connection is a single case, then manual technology is suitable for such purposes. On water pipelines, as well as pipes of heating systems, threading is performed using a die.

A die (another name for a lerk) is a simple device designed for cutting an external threaded connection on pipes.

The die is a steel disc, and its inner diameter has axial holes in a different number, depending on the size of the product. The edges of these holes form cutters, with the help of which the threading is performed. To ensure the reliability of such a tool, it is made from alloyed types of steel or hard alloys.

Dies can have different shapes (round, square, hexagonal or prismatic), but most often disc options are used. It is the disc dies that are designed to obtain a threaded connection on water pipes. To make it convenient to work with the die, they are additionally equipped with knobs, as well as fasteners in the form of screws. Dies are also available in solid, split and sliding.

One-piece pipe threading dies have one significant drawback - the rapid wear of the cutters. This is due to the rigidity of the product's own design. Split or spring-loaded dies have a less rigid structure, which significantly increases the life of the product. Due to the spring-loaded mechanism, such a pipe threading tool allows you to vary the diameter of the resulting threaded connections in the range from 0.1 to 0.3 mm. A device of this type has a high resistance to cutter wear, however, it is not able to provide high accuracy.

Sliding rails are 2 working parts intended for installation in the fastening module. A die with a special fixing module forms a tool called a pipe die. The die in the die is fixed with a cracker and an adjusting screw. It is with the help of the adjusting screw that the thread diameter is adjusted.

Usually pipe couplings are supplied complete with dies. different diameters... With such a set, you can always thread a pipe of any diameter.

How to thread a pipe with your own hands

To make a do-it-yourself thread on a pipe, you initially need to perform a number of preparatory measures:

1. Thoroughly clean the tube in the area where you plan to get threads.
2. Clean the end part of the product with a file.
3. Lubricate the work area to reduce drag.

In order for the threading process to be convenient, and the final result to meet the requirements, before carrying out the actions, you need to fix the products in a vice. This will fix the part so that you can perform the necessary actions with both hands. After that, the following actions are carried out:

1. A wrench with a die of the required diameter is used, with the help of which a rough cut is carried out. In this case, it is important to keep the die strictly perpendicular to the pipe.
2. The rough cut is the basis for threading, so take your time and do it slowly but efficiently.
3. A rough cut allows you to get 2-3 threads of a thread. This is the number of threads needed for the tool to take a secure position.
4. The next step is to twist the rough die and use the finishing one. With its help, the required number of threads is cut on the pipe, which is planned to be installed in the water supply or heating system.
5. After each pass, you need to do 0.5 turns back to clear the cut from the chips.
6. At the final stage, you should use the third plate, which is used for the control pass.

When threading, it is important that all actions are carried out slowly, and with each subsequent turn, the cut is cleaned of metal chips.

How to thread a pipe near a wall

Often times, threading needs to be done on site, with the piping anchored in one piece to the water or heating system. In hard-to-reach places, it is impossible to thread a thread on a pipeline installed near the wall with a die with a knob. For such purposes, you will need to use a threading device such as a ratchet screwdriver. With its help, the threading process is simplified several times.

The manual threading procedure is carried out as follows:

1. A nozzle of the corresponding diameter is fixed in the holder of the klupp, after which you can proceed to the procedure itself.
2. The surface of the pipe is cleaned - the working area.
3. The area to be cut must be cleaned until a metallic sheen appears.
4. A chamfer is made at an angle of 45-60 degrees.
5. The material is lubricated with Litol or Solidol.
6. A wrench is put on the working area of ​​the pipe.
7. Moderate reciprocating rotations of the tool are performed.

As with a die, and when working with a die, you need to make a half turn back after each new thread to remove the metal edge. To facilitate the process of threading, you can use an electric die cutter, however, it is rational to purchase such a tool only if you need to use it every day.

On pipes, you can cut not only external, but also internal threads, for which taps are used. However, the need to obtain a thread on the inside of the pipeline arises only in rare cases. Knowing the features of self-threading, there will never be problems with the installation of water supply and heating systems.

It is a great happiness to have your own home in these times of crisis. And it doesn't matter if we are talking about a city apartment or a private house. In any case, a person feels solid ground under his feet amid this sea of ​​instability. If only you have your own house, and all the work on its improvement can be done with my own hands... Of course, for this you need to have a great desire, good tools. As for the skills, they can be fully acquired in the process of performing various activities. Naturally, one cannot do without a theoretical study of the foundations of the production of certain works. As part of this article, we propose to disassemble the topic of how to cut threads on a pipe. Naturally, we are interested in the most popular ways of performing this operation in a home workshop.

Option # 1: We use an electric thread cutter

Like many modern household electrical devices, the electric threading machine is very simple and convenient to use. This is especially true when it comes to threading small workpieces. There is no need to puzzle over how to securely clamp the pipe.

Typically, a set of such a device includes levers of different diameters and the electrical device itself, with a powerful reverse gear reducer. A piece of pipe is clamped in a special guide vise-holder. And then everything is simple - you pull the trigger thumb right hand and perform threading.

An electric threading cutter makes it easier to thread small parts

Tapping pipes in this way carries the risk of heating up too quickly or even overheating the electric thread cutter. Of course, if we are talking about the processing of one single detail, then there can be no problems. Although in this case the question arises whether it is advisable to purchase this expensive device. If it is supposed to make several long threads, for example, on an inch pipe, then use the electric thread cutter with great care. In addition, its dimensions do not always allow for threading a pipe located close to the wall.

Option # 2: Hand-cut threads

Manual pipe threading is performed using the following tools and materials:

• ram holder
• rough thread die
• fine thread die
• lubricant: grease, machine oil or " folk remedy"- a piece of bacon
• Bulgarian or good file

A beginner may have a fair question: what are two dies for? The fact is that I also call them checkpoint and finish. They are used for the reason that it facilitates the cutting process itself. And, in addition, the wear of the tool itself decreases, which is all the more important if we analyze its quality.

Important! Wherever you are threading: on water pipes, on elements of a heating system or on a tie-in into a house, first you need to make sure that good condition pipes. Otherwise, there is a high probability that the pipe will break when threading.

The procedure for performing work with manual cutting:

• Pipe threading begins with a mandatory measure - chamfering at the end where the threaded connection will be.
• Grease is applied to the threads and teeth of the die.
• The die holder with the through die fixed on it is pressed against the pipe with force so that engagement is created.
• The device must be rotated clockwise - threading is performed (approx. 5 turns). If there is a lot of resistance in the process, then you can make a half-turn back. The chips will break off and turn clockwise again becomes easier.

The work involves a finishing die, which is also pre-lubricated. The procedure is repeated as for rough cutting.

Rotational movements during slicing are performed clockwise

Note! You can't do all the work in one fell swoop. Cutting should be done gradually, moving forward half a turn. Otherwise, you can bend the pipe and irreparably ruin the pipe.

Compare the dies with each other

The photo shows two dies, one high quality and the other cheap. In principle, the difference is visible even to the naked eye, and any comments are hardly needed. Just note that an inexpensive tool will perform a good thread for a short time, literally after a few cases of application, the applied thread will no longer have the required depth.

What should be the pipe itself?

Before making a thread on a pipe, it is necessary to perform a certain preparatory work... This primarily applies to pipes that have already been used. If it was painted, then you need to get rid of the paint layer. The same should be done with a layer of building material that has solidified on the outer surface of the pipe.

At the end of threading, you need to arm yourself with a flashlight and carefully inspect the resulting connection. If the pipe is used, then it may very well be that through cuts have formed in the seams of the thread due to material wear. Then you will need to think about another option for connecting the pipeline or even replacing the damaged section.

Why do you need a thread at all?

We seem to have sorted out the two most popular options for threading a pipe, but a logical question may arise as to why this is necessary at all, if almost all pipelines today are made of plastic of various types, at least in everyday life? The answer is very simple - you can connect a metal pipe and a plastic one only by means of a threaded connection, and nothing else. And such designs are still very often found in an individual dwelling.

Threads are one of the main types of fastening metal pipes that you can reproduce yourself. So, next we will consider which pipe threading tool is worth purchasing, and how to use it. But before that, it is worth deciding on the basic concepts, without which the performance of work will be impossible.

What you need to know about carving?

When installing stop valves, a transition tee or a coupling on a metal pipe, a thread must be made, which is characterized by the following parameters:

• Depth- the distance from the base of the thread to the end of the pipe.
• Profile and its angle- the cross-section of the turn, which is made in the form of a triangle, rectangle and other shapes. When the side faces of the turns intersect, an angle is formed.
• Step- the distance that forms between the tops of the pipe or nearby turns.

Important: The larger the step, the greater the depth and the number of turns per 1 unit. threads and therefore vice versa.

The definition of the profile and pitch should be taken with maximum attention, since the type of thread depends on this:

• Inch- is represented as a triangle and is used when assembling elements of a water pipe, and sometimes a heating one.
• Cylindrical- a variant of an inch thread, which has a smaller pitch. The smoothed top edge of the profile resembles a cylinder. An example of an external cylindrical thread diagram is shown below:
• Conical- the view allows you to obtain a hermetic connection, which is especially important when using sealing materials.
• Metric- the type is used for small diameter branch pipes. It can be trapezoidal - the outer angle is 30 degrees, and the sides of the coil resemble a trapezoid. For bolted connections, rectangular threads can also be used, since they make the fixation more secure. Here is a metric thread diagram that looks like an equilateral triangle:

Preparing for manual threading

Basic rules of use:

• it is recommended to clean the pipe at the point of threading from paint, dirt and rust (only metal should remain);
• if the pipe has a chamfer, you need to carefully remove it with a file (or with a grinder, if you have the skill to work with this tool);
• during operation, the surface of the pipe and the cutter must be lubricated with a special substance (it must be smeared both at the beginning of work and in the process).

If you do not follow these rules, then the service life of the tools is sharply reduced, and there is also a great chance to reject or simply break the pipe itself.

Step-by-step instructions for tapping with a die

The pipe threading die looks like a hardened steel nut with a flower-shaped hole inside, the edges closest to the center are covered with sharp cutting surfaces, and the “petals” allow the chips to be easily discharged without interfering with work.

Working with the tool is straightforward:

• Place the pipe firmly upright. It must also be prepared - cleaned of paint, chamfers, etc. The ratchet handle for threading pipe threads holds a stick of a suitable size, and spread grease on the pipe.
• Place the die strictly perpendicular to the pipe. If there is a deviation of at least 5-10 degrees, then the pipe will already be damaged.
• Start moving the holder handle clockwise.
• When the required space is covered with threads, lift the torch up and again walk down the already cut to make the notches clearer.

This video is a demonstration of the correct use of the plate. Visual actions follow the preparatory steps listed above:

Remember to lubricate the torch and pipe periodically. Act smoothly, calmly. Do not jerk the die while working and do not leave an unfinished process.

Threading set for pipes and rules for its use

Ideal for home use, this is a pipe threading kit. Klupp is a modernized die that has a special guide and ratchet. The tools in the kit can be different, for example:

• Sliding... As a rule, they consist of cutters, the distance between which can be adjusted. Allows you to cut threads in several passes, accurately and efficiently.
• Monolithic... The tool has a cylindrical shape with an internal hole and is installed in a ram holder. Allows you to make a thread in one pass.

Kits and individual components vary greatly in price and quality. There are budget options for sets for 1000 - 1100 rubles, and there are much higher ones.

Depending on the diameter of the pipe and the direction of the thread (right, left), a scraper is selected. Further, the work process is as follows:

• klupp is installed in the ratchet;
• oil is applied to the cutting part;
• a guide is installed on the edge of the pipe;
• the ratchet spins, making a thread;
• in the process, the edges and the pipe are treated with oil.

It is necessary to change the die on time - it must always be sharp, and all other elements must be serviceable.

An example of threading using a die is presented in the video:

Threading a pipe near a wall

You may have a situation where you need to thread a pipe that is already embedded in the wall. The principle of operation in this situation is exactly the same as described above. However, there is a big "but": the device needs space to work, so you may have to remove part of the wall. An example of such work is demonstrated in the video:

Important! The cut on the pipe must be made perfectly flat, otherwise it will be extremely difficult to cut threads.

How to cut female threads?

To manually make an internal thread, taps are used that are inserted into the driver. They consist of three parts:

• Fence... Used directly for slicing;
• Calibrating... The middle part is needed for guiding when sizing and cutting;
• Tail... The part has a square head and is used to hold the tap in the tap while cutting.

How the internal trapezoidal thread is cut can be seen in the instruction video:

Gutter Cutting Machine

A pipe threading machine is unlikely to be needed by a person who equips his home. It is more of a working tool. By design, it is somewhat reminiscent of drilling machines vertical arrangement.

The diameter of the work piece and the cutting step are adjustable. The work of the spindle can be fine-tuned by adjusting the number and speed of revolutions. Basically, such a machine does almost all the work. Also, unlike manual tools, the machine can make not only an external thread, but also an internal one. More modern machines can handle the smallest parts and thin-walled products.

In the following video, you can clearly see how the machine works without distortions:

Video: Manual threading in a summer cottage workshop

In the next video, the wizard will tell you in detail what needs to be considered for competent threading, and how to do the job correctly:

The above describes in detail all the main stages of work that both a beginner and a hardened master need to know when cutting threads. However, if you understand that this process is not successful for you, and the repair needs to be continued, it is best to contact a professional craftsman.

DIYers today do not often think about how to cut threads on a pipe. Most of the projects are carried out using alternative materials. But such a need sometimes arises. Thanks to the basic skills, it will be possible to independently carry out simple repairs at home or in other conditions.

Basic concepts

A threaded connection is indispensable if you need to install a shut-off valve, reducing tee or coupling on a metal pipe. Very often the joints fall into disrepair, and they have to be redone. The thread is characterized by:

• depth;
• step;
• profile;
• profile angle;
• location.

Depending on the profile and pitch, threads are distinguished:

• Inch. Has the shape of a triangle. It got its name from the units in which the outer diameter is measured. It is used in the assembly of plumbing and heating parts. Conditionally distinguish pipe and fastening. The second has a larger pitch to provide better fixation.
• Conical. The main application of this type is to ensure that the connection is hermetically sealed without the use of various sealing materials.
• Cylindrical. This is a type of inch thread with a finer pitch. The upper edge of the profile is smoothed and resembles a part of a cylinder. Typically, the thread pitch coincides with the inch for parts of suitable diameter.
• Trapezoidal. It has a 30 ° apex angle. It is most often used in bolted joints to give greater reliability when fixing. A thread, the sides of the coil of which resemble an unequal trapezoid, is called persistent.
• Rectangular. It is used for the same purposes as the previous type.

Note! The last two varieties are classified as metric. They can be cut into small diameter nipples that are used in specific tools.

At the location of the cut, there are:

• external;
• internal.

Each of these types requires an individual approach and is intended for specific purposes.

Preparatory stage

The quality of the final product depends on how responsibly this stage is passed.

• The tool with which the work will be done must be in proper condition. It should be free of rust. For this, during long-term storage, it is covered with a preservative lubricant. Klupp incisors must be well sharpened.
• If the pipe has already been in operation and has paint on it, then it must be cleaned well. This is done with a file, a grinder and a grinding wheel, sandpaper or a construction hair dryer.
• With the help of a grinder or a hacksaw, the plane of the end is displayed. To do this, cut off a small piece to get a right angle relative to the axis.
• Burrs are removed with a file.
• The chamfer is removed in such a way as to create a small cone.

All work is done with a die or a scribe. These are identical concepts and are synonymous. Depending on the design, they can be:

• Adjustable or sliding. Usually they have several incisors, the distance between which can be changed. They are especially useful in cases where the profile of the pipe is uneven due to deformation or factory defects, but you still need to cut the thread. Most often they are installed in molds, which provide them with good fixation. With the help of such products, threads can be cut in several passes, which increases its accuracy and quality.
• Monolithic. They are a small cylinder with a hole in the middle. Such a tool is clamped into a special die holder. Usually fixed with one or more bolts. This tool is used for cutting in one pass.
• Conical. Designed for cutting the corresponding threads, which were mentioned above.

The scraper is selected depending on the diameter of the pipe being processed, as well as on the direction of the thread - right or left. All designations are applied to the packaging or directly to the instrument itself. The whole process will be reduced to the following actions:

• The workpiece is fixed. If it is not fixed in any system, then it is clamped in a vice. In the case when the cutting will be done on a water pipe or heating pipe, it is necessary to make spacers to immobilize it.
• The end of the prepared pipe section is lubricated with machine oil or grease. If these components are not there, then you can use what is at hand - even lard.
• The surface of the tool cutters is also subject to lubrication.
• The die holder with a ram is brought to the end of the pipe. This must be done exactly at right angles. This is much easier to do with a die holder with a guide.
• At the same time, it is necessary to rotate the threading tool and press it against the nozzle. Coupling should occur. Thus, it is important to cut the first 2 turns.
• If you do not use a ram holder with a guide, then you will need to constantly monitor that the angle remains 90 °. If you do not comply with this requirement, then there may be a bias. This threatens the thread to be torn off, the tool is damaged, or the required pitch will not be observed.
• Do not cut in a continuous pass. In the process, metal shavings will be formed. In order to remove it, it is necessary to make one turn in the direction of travel and half a turn back. It is thanks to this that the accumulated waste will be removed.
• Grease should also be added along the way.
• After completion, you need to unscrew the stick and walk it again to make the finishing eyeliner.

Note! In order for the final result to be much better, two dies are used. One of them is called rough. Its purpose is to quickly create path and markings for the next element - finishing. Thanks to the second die, the perfect cut is produced.

Threading with a die cutter follows the same mechanism. In addition to everything, in some products it is possible not only to move the cutters, but also to unfold them. In this situation, you can perform both the finishing and roughing passes with the same tool. When using such a unit, you must be very careful during the initial stage. This is due to the fact that, thanks to the ratchet handle, more force can be applied than in the case of a conventional ratchet holder. If at the very beginning you do not set the angle correctly, then you can ruin the entire workpiece and not notice it. Klupp is inconvenient to use in cases where the pipe is already installed and is close to the wall. You will need to either bend it with a wedge or gouge out part of the plaster so that the nozzle fits well and does not move.

Using an electric tool

An electric threading machine can carry out the planned work several times faster, and the quality of the final product will be much higher. The sequence of work will be as follows:

• The pipe is cut to the required size. The most acceptable result is obtained when using a reciprocating saw with a guide.
• You do not need to remove the chamfer, as for a scraper. By the way, this rule is also relevant when using a manual clamp.
• A special holder is put on the branch pipe. He acts as a guide. It is important to grip it well.
• The power tool is brought in and inserted into the holder receptacle. The klupp is put on the pipe.
• Lubrication is carried out using a special composition.
• Further, the unit does everything automatically.

There are times when, in order to assemble a structure, it is necessary to cut the internal thread in the pipe. For such purposes, a completely different tool is used - a tap. It is a small metal pin with external incisors at one end. In order for everything to be correct, you must adhere to the following steps:

• Using a vernier caliper, the inner diameter of the nozzle is measured.
• The corresponding tap is selected exactly for this value.
• All burrs are removed with a file.
• The surface is processed with a metal brush.
• The number 1 tap is clamped in the holder and inserted into the pipe. It will remove 70% of the material as it passes. The remaining 30% is removed with a finishing tap number 2.
• In order to remove shavings along the way, the same rule applies as in the case of the cutter.
• If the thread needs to be cut in one of the pipe walls, then a hole is drilled with a drill. The drill should be clearly perpendicular. This is important, because otherwise you will not get high-quality slicing.

Note! If the pipe is in the wall, then the threads can be cut until a few millimeters of the protruding pipe are missing. It is necessary to leave such a gap so as not to rip the product when screwing in the connector.

Nuances

There are some secrets that have been developed over the years and are not often talked about. Here are a few of them:

• To make it easier for yourself when using an ordinary scraper, you can use a special guide. It is a small threaded end clamping mechanism. It must be inserted into the middle of the pipe as far as it will go into the side and unclench the jaws. The die is screwed onto the thread of the retainer and then smoothly and accurately goes along the pipe.
• Some craftsmen recommend using dishwashing detergent as a lubricant. No matter how absurd it may sound, it provides excellent passage, while the chips are not torn, but solid, which speaks of best quality the work done.
• If it is planned to install a brass valve on a steel pipe, it is necessary to cut the threads so that when the locking mechanism is screwed in, 4–5 turns are obtained. This will guarantee good fixation and long service life.
• The klupp device is such that the thread turns out to be slightly under the taper, that is, the last turns are obtained with a shallower depth than the first. In this case, the squeegees are not completely wound. To compensate for such a difference, it is necessary to walk after the klupp with an ordinary scraper.
• There are situations when the thread needs to be cut on a pipe that comes out of the wall a short distance. In this case, you can use a scraper, or cut the klupp guide. This will not affect performance, but it will provide greater convenience.
• When replacing the cutters in the die, be sure to follow the sequence in which they are to be installed. Most often, they are marked with numbers that correspond to the receiver.
• If the thread needs to be cut on a pipe that is recessed into the wall, then you need to do this. A small area is knocked out around the nozzle to fit the klupp. The cutting mechanism can be rotated using the T-handle. A hexagonal head is put on its end, in which slots are made. It is selected in such a way as to enter through the outer hole of the die and cling to the space between the incisors.

Using the listed methods and methods, you will definitely get an excellent result, which you will achieve with your own hands. If you also know some secrets about where to cut threads and how best to do it, share them in the comments to this article.

Video

Metal pipe threading technology is demonstrated below: